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Easy way to fix Kingspan then plasterboard to an internal wall?
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mike
Sep 17, 2012, 5:57:09 AM9/17/12
to
The upstairs external walls of our house have a narrow cavity - too
narrow to be filled when we had cavity wall insulation downstairs.
I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the
insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.
I've got some sheets of Kingspan left over from a previous job so I
don't particularly want to buy the ready-bonded Kingspan/plasterboard
combo. Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area
building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.
Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two
of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings
maybe?
The end result will be tiled over.
narrow to be filled when we had cavity wall insulation downstairs.
I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the
insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.
I've got some sheets of Kingspan left over from a previous job so I
don't particularly want to buy the ready-bonded Kingspan/plasterboard
combo. Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area
building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.
Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two
of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings
maybe?
The end result will be tiled over.
Andy Dingley
Sep 17, 2012, 7:04:03 AM9/17/12
to
On Monday, 17 September 2012 10:57:09 UTC+1, mike wrote:
> I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the
> insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.
Same here. Celotex's web site has some nice illustrated constructional suggestions.
> I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the
> insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.
OTOH, I read all their suggestions carefully, then ignored them. I'm using half the thickness, with cold bridges around my studs. It means I lose about 2" on the room, not 5".
RobertL
Sep 17, 2012, 7:05:45 AM9/17/12
to
On Monday, September 17, 2012 10:57:09 AM UTC+1, mike wrote:
> Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area
building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.
Why would studs reduce the floor area? You could use studs that are the same thickness as your Kingspan. wedge the kingspan between them and tape over the joins and studs (vapour barrier), then plasterboard.
> Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area
building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.
Robert
Andy Dingley
Sep 17, 2012, 7:12:37 AM9/17/12
to
On Monday, 17 September 2012 12:05:45 UTC+1, RobertL wrote:
> Why would studs reduce the floor area?
The "official" line is that studs are cold bridges. So you need two layers of board and studs, with the studs crossed. You also need to size the thickness, such that single layer board thickness under the studs is still adequate. This turns into quite a thick package.
> Why would studs reduce the floor area?
george - dicegeorge
Sep 17, 2012, 7:29:15 AM9/17/12
to
Grimly Curmudgeon
Sep 17, 2012, 7:51:29 AM9/17/12
to
On Mon, 17 Sep 2012 02:57:09 -0700 (PDT), mike <mike...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two
>of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings
>maybe?
Expanding foam used as a criss-cross pattern and a line around the
edge. You can get low-expansion ones, but the ordinary one does fine.
Just brace the board against the wall for up to an hour until the foam
hardens off.
wrote:
>Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two
>of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings
>maybe?
edge. You can get low-expansion ones, but the ordinary one does fine.
Just brace the board against the wall for up to an hour until the foam
hardens off.
Tim Watts
Sep 17, 2012, 9:00:25 AM9/17/12
to
somthing like:
http://www.astra247.com/8476/Heating/Marmox-Washers-Metal-or-Plastic-(Bag-
of-100-Washers)/100-Plastic-Washers-per-Bag/
Or nail in fixings:
http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/marmox-quick-install-cob-plug-fixing-
dowels-110mm.html
However you may need fixings at fairly close intervals (perhaps every 30cm
in a grid which is a lot).
Or you can foam bond it to the wall with a PU foam made for the job - a low
expansion type, eg:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60449
Ditto plasterboard.
Personally I would use the foam above with a few screw fixings - every 2' or
so, and "marmox" washers. The screws will keep the board in place while the
foam sets - it is low expansion but it still does expand. I've used that
particular product and it is very very sticky - do not get on carpet, in
hair etc. What gets on cloth never comes off.
Do the same for the PB - use the foam and a few long drywall screws into
wall behind the Kingspan. You could just use teh foam, but the setting time
is about 15-30 minutes so you'd need to prop everything until that time has
elapsed.
--
Tim Watts
geraldthehamster
Sep 17, 2012, 9:30:00 AM9/17/12
to
studs is that (assuming you remember where they are) you have
something behind the plasterboard to fix into (for cupboards, shelves,
radiators, etc.). Easier than trying to fix to a wall through 2 inches
of Kingspan.
Cheers
Richard
harry
Sep 17, 2012, 11:41:32 AM9/17/12
to
On Sep 17, 2:00 pm, Tim Watts <tw+use...@dionic.net> wrote:
> mike wrote:
> > The upstairs external walls of our house have a narrow cavity - too
> > narrow to be filled when we had cavity wall insulation downstairs.
>
> > I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the
> > insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.
>
> > I've got some sheets of Kingspan left over from a previous job so I
> > don't particularly want to buy the ready-bonded Kingspan/plasterboard
> > combo. Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area
> > building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.
>
> > Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two
> > of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings
> > maybe?
>
> > The end result will be tiled over.
>
> You could screw teh Kingspan to the wall - use 30mm (IIRC) disc washers -
> somthing like:
>
> http://www.astra247.com/8476/Heating/Marmox-Washers-Metal-or-Plastic-...
> mike wrote:
> > The upstairs external walls of our house have a narrow cavity - too
> > narrow to be filled when we had cavity wall insulation downstairs.
>
> > I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the
> > insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.
>
> > I've got some sheets of Kingspan left over from a previous job so I
> > don't particularly want to buy the ready-bonded Kingspan/plasterboard
> > combo. Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area
> > building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.
>
> > Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two
> > of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings
> > maybe?
>
> > The end result will be tiled over.
>
> You could screw teh Kingspan to the wall - use 30mm (IIRC) disc washers -
> somthing like:
>
> of-100-Washers)/100-Plastic-Washers-per-Bag/
>
> Or nail in fixings:
>
> http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/marmox-quick-install-cob-plug-fixing-
> dowels-110mm.html
>
> However you may need fixings at fairly close intervals (perhaps every 30cm
> in a grid which is a lot).
>
> Or you can foam bond it to the wall with a PU foam made for the job - a low
> expansion type, eg:
>
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60449
>
> Ditto plasterboard.
>
> Personally I would use the foam above with a few screw fixings - every 2' or
> so, and "marmox" washers. The screws will keep the board in place while the
> foam sets - it is low expansion but it still does expand. I've used that
> particular product and it is very very sticky - do not get on carpet, in
> hair etc. What gets on cloth never comes off.
>
> Do the same for the PB - use the foam and a few long drywall screws into
> wall behind the Kingspan. You could just use teh foam, but the setting time
> is about 15-30 minutes so you'd need to prop everything until that time has
> elapsed.
>
I applied kingspan with fixing foam and screws/big washers. I
>
> Or nail in fixings:
>
> http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/marmox-quick-install-cob-plug-fixing-
> dowels-110mm.html
>
> However you may need fixings at fairly close intervals (perhaps every 30cm
> in a grid which is a lot).
>
> Or you can foam bond it to the wall with a PU foam made for the job - a low
> expansion type, eg:
>
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60449
>
> Ditto plasterboard.
>
> Personally I would use the foam above with a few screw fixings - every 2' or
> so, and "marmox" washers. The screws will keep the board in place while the
> foam sets - it is low expansion but it still does expand. I've used that
> particular product and it is very very sticky - do not get on carpet, in
> hair etc. What gets on cloth never comes off.
>
> Do the same for the PB - use the foam and a few long drywall screws into
> wall behind the Kingspan. You could just use teh foam, but the setting time
> is about 15-30 minutes so you'd need to prop everything until that time has
> elapsed.
>
plastered straight onto it using lots of PVA (on surface and in
plaster), no plasterboard at all. (Scrim on joints)
Been OK for five years.
mike
Sep 17, 2012, 5:15:07 PM9/17/12
to
Thanks for all the replies. The dryfix or low-expansion foam with
some of those whack-in fixings sound like just the thing.
some of those whack-in fixings sound like just the thing.
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