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Chalet style house insulation.
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Unknown
Mar 10, 2020, 8:13:28 AM3/10/20
to
A friend has a 1960's chalet style semi-house, where the first floor
bedrooms are always cold. Gutters are at ground floor ceiling height.
End brick wall goes up to roof and is CWI. Upper floor windows are set
in the roof slope and have no internal cills. There is CWI at front and
rear, up to roof gutter/roof level.
There is no insulation at front, or rear, between plasterboard wall and
angle of tiled roof, which makes the place drafty, cold and expensive
to heat.
Upper floor is smaller than the ground floor, so there is a triangle of
space below the windows, maybe with a 2 or 3 foot base.
He cannot add insulation inside plasterboard walls, because of built in
furniture. What is the usual method of insulating such spaces please?
I have suggested the only way is to gain access via tile removal and
fix thick insulation between timber frame to rear of plasterboard. Or
maybe a spray on insulation foam added to rear of pasterboard.
Enquiries with insulation specialists have produced little interest.
bedrooms are always cold. Gutters are at ground floor ceiling height.
End brick wall goes up to roof and is CWI. Upper floor windows are set
in the roof slope and have no internal cills. There is CWI at front and
rear, up to roof gutter/roof level.
There is no insulation at front, or rear, between plasterboard wall and
angle of tiled roof, which makes the place drafty, cold and expensive
to heat.
Upper floor is smaller than the ground floor, so there is a triangle of
space below the windows, maybe with a 2 or 3 foot base.
He cannot add insulation inside plasterboard walls, because of built in
furniture. What is the usual method of insulating such spaces please?
I have suggested the only way is to gain access via tile removal and
fix thick insulation between timber frame to rear of plasterboard. Or
maybe a spray on insulation foam added to rear of pasterboard.
Enquiries with insulation specialists have produced little interest.
Jimk
Mar 10, 2020, 8:50:01 AM3/10/20
to
Harry Bloomfield, Esq. <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> Wrote in
message:
Knock it down & start again.
--
Jimk
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message:
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Brian Reay
Mar 10, 2020, 9:19:01 AM3/10/20
to
there was a crawl space, accessible via a hatch in the garage, and I was
able to gain access. I lined it with foil and insulation. It made quite
a difference.
If there is a similar space, it may be worth making an access somewhere
is can't be seen.
Unknown
Mar 10, 2020, 9:25:18 AM3/10/20
to
Jimk wrote :
> Knock it down & start again.
Other solutions than demolition?
The Natural Philosopher
Mar 10, 2020, 9:49:35 AM3/10/20
to
stripping plasterboard or removing the roof.
i can't see any other solution
--
"In our post-modern world, climate science is not powerful because it is
true: it is true because it is powerful."
Lucas Bergkamp
Tricky Dicky
Mar 10, 2020, 10:15:54 AM3/10/20
to
You also need to consider a vapour barrier which has to on the warm side of the insulation. Our last house had two bay windows one stacked on the other, from the outside between them they had slate outer skin behind which was some sarking and just plasterboard nailed on the vertical supports on the inside. It was bloody cold in the bedroom, I removed the PB added to the thickness of supporting stud work before filling the spaces with paper lined rock wool. The paper lining extended sideways of the width of the rock wool allowing it to be nailed to the studs to stop it sliding down, these days you would probably use batts. The whole lot was covered with a PVC vapour barrier before reattaching the PB. As far as I was aware I never had any damp issues and it was an awful lot warmer.
I suppose you could simply add studs without removing the PB, fill the spaces with batts or celutex, add a vapour barrier and re-plasterboard.
Richard
I suppose you could simply add studs without removing the PB, fill the spaces with batts or celutex, add a vapour barrier and re-plasterboard.
Richard
Dave Plowman (News)
Mar 10, 2020, 10:36:09 AM3/10/20
to
In article <r48095$2ub$1...@dont-email.me>,
--
*A fool and his money can throw one hell of a party.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
> I have suggested the only way is to gain access via tile removal and
> fix thick insulation between timber frame to rear of plasterboard. Or
> maybe a spray on insulation foam added to rear of pasterboard.
Spray on insulation seems an ideal way to promote timber rot.
> I have suggested the only way is to gain access via tile removal and
> fix thick insulation between timber frame to rear of plasterboard. Or
> maybe a spray on insulation foam added to rear of pasterboard.
--
*A fool and his money can throw one hell of a party.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Unknown
Mar 10, 2020, 12:01:52 PM3/10/20
to
Brian Reay wrote on 10/03/2020 :
> One of our previous houses had been extended like that. Fortunately, there
> was a crawl space, accessible via a hatch in the garage, and I was able to
> gain access. I lined it with foil and insulation. It made quite a difference.
>
> If there is a similar space, it may be worth making an access somewhere is
> can't be seen.
He says not, but it might be worth his making some access to add
> One of our previous houses had been extended like that. Fortunately, there
> was a crawl space, accessible via a hatch in the garage, and I was able to
> gain access. I lined it with foil and insulation. It made quite a difference.
>
> If there is a similar space, it may be worth making an access somewhere is
> can't be seen.
insulation.
It's not an extension, it is the originally built. I'm surprised that
in the 1960's this was an acceptable way to build homes. He says his
was one of the first, later ones of the same design had to have
insulation added.
Unknown
Mar 10, 2020, 12:15:53 PM3/10/20
to
Tricky Dicky explained :
along the walls and up to the walls.
> I suppose you could simply add studs without removing the PB, fill the spaces
> with batts or celutex, add a vapour barrier and re-plasterboard.
I suggested that, but he has spent a small fortune on fitted furniture
> with batts or celutex, add a vapour barrier and re-plasterboard.
along the walls and up to the walls.
Jimk
Mar 10, 2020, 12:24:07 PM3/10/20
to
Another Dave
Mar 10, 2020, 1:40:17 PM3/10/20
to
central heating powered by a Baxi coal-fired back boiler. I loved the
place. We were younger and tougher then.
Anothe Dave
--
Change nospam to techie
Brian Reay
Mar 10, 2020, 1:49:35 PM3/10/20
to
The upper floor, which is of interest here, was changed, as was the
(1930s) ground floor. When finished, it looked 1960s.
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)
Mar 10, 2020, 2:07:41 PM3/10/20
to
He did not want to remove fitted furniture, I think he may need to rethink
that a bit. There are some Dutch style houses around here with similar
issues. Built in 1939, and are single brick walls as well, like my terraced
one is, and to be honest I'd need to do a heck of a lot to make insulation
better here too, but at least I don't have roof pretending to be walls!
Brian
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"Tricky Dicky" <tricky...@sky.com> wrote in message
news:766ecb7e-58c9-48c3...@googlegroups.com...
that a bit. There are some Dutch style houses around here with similar
issues. Built in 1939, and are single brick walls as well, like my terraced
one is, and to be honest I'd need to do a heck of a lot to make insulation
better here too, but at least I don't have roof pretending to be walls!
Brian
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Andrew
Mar 10, 2020, 2:09:14 PM3/10/20
to
On 10/03/2020 16:01, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
expanded polystyrene (the white stuff) just chicked inside the
cavity. No attempt to clamp it firmly to the inner leaf, so air
movement each side of the 'insulation' would have rendered it
ineffective.
1960's buildings need to be bought cheap (in poor condition)
so that remedial work (like pulling down upstairs celings of
chalet houses and fitting tightly fitting celotex with gaps
sealed with foaming adhesive between rafters) can be done
as part of the renovation.`
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)
Mar 10, 2020, 2:10:26 PM3/10/20
to
This is called painting oneself into a comer. He should have asked the
insulation question first. I'd have thought that rather obvious in your
description of the build. Seems an odd property to buy, unless it was
really dirt cheap.
Of course a lot of people have lived in such houses for years and its only
as fuel costs increase the folly of the design becomes apparent.
message news:r48efm$t7p$1...@dont-email.me...
insulation question first. I'd have thought that rather obvious in your
description of the build. Seems an odd property to buy, unless it was
really dirt cheap.
Of course a lot of people have lived in such houses for years and its only
as fuel costs increase the folly of the design becomes apparent.
Brian
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<Harry Bloomfield>; "Esq." <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote in
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Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)
Mar 10, 2020, 2:12:23 PM3/10/20
to
I wondered is there anything that looks like tiles that has better
insulation properties that might be able to be fitted and the tiles flogged
on to somebody needing vintage, well not very vintage I suppose, times?
news:584f158...@davenoise.co.uk...
insulation properties that might be able to be fitted and the tiles flogged
on to somebody needing vintage, well not very vintage I suppose, times?
Brian
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Theo
Mar 10, 2020, 5:12:11 PM3/10/20
to
Harry Bloomfield, Esq. <harry...@nospam.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
> Upper floor is smaller than the ground floor, so there is a triangle of
> space below the windows, maybe with a 2 or 3 foot base.
>
> He cannot add insulation inside plasterboard walls, because of built in
> furniture. What is the usual method of insulating such spaces please?
We've just bought a place like that. There's fibreglass insulation between
> Upper floor is smaller than the ground floor, so there is a triangle of
> space below the windows, maybe with a 2 or 3 foot base.
>
> He cannot add insulation inside plasterboard walls, because of built in
> furniture. What is the usual method of insulating such spaces please?
the ceiling joists of the ground floor, and the vertical walls of the first
floor are backed with fibreglass batts too. I'm not sure what the state of
the upper roof is like, but we'll find out next time we have to replace
the flat roof on the dormer. There are hatches to access the spaces.
I'm pondering putting some insulation between the rafter (with a suitable
air gap from the tiles) to add a second layer (partly to keep heat out), but
will probably want to see how it works over the seasons first.
Theo
Unknown
Mar 10, 2020, 5:54:47 PM3/10/20
to
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) formulated the question :
> Of course a lot of people have lived in such houses for years and its only
> as fuel costs increase the folly of the design becomes apparent.
He appreciates that had he done something about it long ago, it would
have easily paid for itself over the years in comfort and fuel saving.
> This is called painting oneself into a comer. He should have asked the
> insulation question first. I'd have thought that rather obvious in your
> description of the build. Seems an odd property to buy, unless it was really
> dirt cheap.
and they were much younger and less bothered by the cold.
> insulation question first. I'd have thought that rather obvious in your
> description of the build. Seems an odd property to buy, unless it was really
> dirt cheap.
> Of course a lot of people have lived in such houses for years and its only
> as fuel costs increase the folly of the design becomes apparent.
have easily paid for itself over the years in comfort and fuel saving.
Unknown
Mar 10, 2020, 5:58:41 PM3/10/20
to
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) presented the following explanation :
> I wondered is there anything that looks like tiles that has better insulation
> properties that might be able to be fitted and the tiles flogged on to
> somebody needing vintage, well not very vintage I suppose, times?
Air/wind would easily flow between the tiles.
> properties that might be able to be fitted and the tiles flogged on to
> somebody needing vintage, well not very vintage I suppose, times?
Tim Lamb
Mar 10, 2020, 6:55:30 PM3/10/20
to
In message <wrB*Pc...@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk>, Theo
<theom...@chiark.greenend.org.uk> writes
I have been *doing up* a 1995 chalet bungalow over the last 2 years (not
full time:-)
There should be a small *loft* area over the upstairs rooms which gives
access to the space between the rafters and the plasterboard. Building
control like at least a 2" air gap between the under tile felt and the
top of any insulation but I managed to get 150mm slabs of Rockwool to
slide down the slots. As others have said, there needs to be a vapour
barrier on the warm side.
Our extension was *shell only* so I was able to fit the insulation
before stapling up the membrane and fitting the plasterboard. Skimming
the whole of our upstairs cost £800 so stripping out and re-fitting may
not be hugely expensive.
Cutting Rockwool was done using a handsaw with the teeth ground off and
a sharp edge maintained with a coarse grit stone (garden sickle job).
--
Tim Lamb
<theom...@chiark.greenend.org.uk> writes
full time:-)
There should be a small *loft* area over the upstairs rooms which gives
access to the space between the rafters and the plasterboard. Building
control like at least a 2" air gap between the under tile felt and the
top of any insulation but I managed to get 150mm slabs of Rockwool to
slide down the slots. As others have said, there needs to be a vapour
barrier on the warm side.
Our extension was *shell only* so I was able to fit the insulation
before stapling up the membrane and fitting the plasterboard. Skimming
the whole of our upstairs cost £800 so stripping out and re-fitting may
not be hugely expensive.
Cutting Rockwool was done using a handsaw with the teeth ground off and
a sharp edge maintained with a coarse grit stone (garden sickle job).
--
Tim Lamb
RJH
Mar 11, 2020, 2:20:55 AM3/11/20
to
On 10 Mar 2020 at 12:13:24 GMT, "Harry Bloomfield, Esq."
>
> Upper floor is smaller than the ground floor, so there is a triangle of
> space below the windows, maybe with a 2 or 3 foot base.
>
> He cannot add insulation inside plasterboard walls, because of built in
> furniture. What is the usual method of insulating such spaces please?
>
> I have suggested the only way is to gain access via tile removal and
> fix thick insulation between timber frame to rear of plasterboard. Or
> maybe a spray on insulation foam added to rear of pasterboard.
>
> Enquiries with insulation specialists have produced little interest.
The attic rooms of my house came with about 10cm of fibreglass wool between
the roof tiles and sloping ceiling. Somehow the installer had managed to stuff
it in there from the loft area. I felt it might compromise ventilation, and it
didn't seem very effective.
The method I used was during a refit, with 50mm celotex foamed to the roof
timbers, plasterboard over. Obviously a lot of mess and bother, but it's made
the rooms very easy to heat and keep warm. A 400W heater keeps the temperature
in a 6m x 4m room. at about 17C when it's freezing outside.
Probably of little interest to your pal . . . ;-)
--
Cheers, Rob
<harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
> A friend has a 1960's chalet style semi-house, where the first floor
> bedrooms are always cold. Gutters are at ground floor ceiling height.
> End brick wall goes up to roof and is CWI. Upper floor windows are set
> in the roof slope and have no internal cills. There is CWI at front and
> rear, up to roof gutter/roof level.
>
> There is no insulation at front, or rear, between plasterboard wall and
> angle of tiled roof, which makes the place drafty, cold and expensive
> to heat.
Why draughty? That'd be one of the first things to fix.
> A friend has a 1960's chalet style semi-house, where the first floor
> bedrooms are always cold. Gutters are at ground floor ceiling height.
> End brick wall goes up to roof and is CWI. Upper floor windows are set
> in the roof slope and have no internal cills. There is CWI at front and
> rear, up to roof gutter/roof level.
>
> There is no insulation at front, or rear, between plasterboard wall and
> angle of tiled roof, which makes the place drafty, cold and expensive
> to heat.
>
> Upper floor is smaller than the ground floor, so there is a triangle of
> space below the windows, maybe with a 2 or 3 foot base.
>
> He cannot add insulation inside plasterboard walls, because of built in
> furniture. What is the usual method of insulating such spaces please?
>
> I have suggested the only way is to gain access via tile removal and
> fix thick insulation between timber frame to rear of plasterboard. Or
> maybe a spray on insulation foam added to rear of pasterboard.
>
> Enquiries with insulation specialists have produced little interest.
the roof tiles and sloping ceiling. Somehow the installer had managed to stuff
it in there from the loft area. I felt it might compromise ventilation, and it
didn't seem very effective.
The method I used was during a refit, with 50mm celotex foamed to the roof
timbers, plasterboard over. Obviously a lot of mess and bother, but it's made
the rooms very easy to heat and keep warm. A 400W heater keeps the temperature
in a 6m x 4m room. at about 17C when it's freezing outside.
Probably of little interest to your pal . . . ;-)
--
Cheers, Rob
Brian Reay
Mar 11, 2020, 3:44:30 AM3/11/20
to
RJH <patch...@gmx.com> wrote:
> On 10 Mar 2020 at 12:13:24 GMT, "Harry Bloomfield, Esq."
> <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> A friend has a 1960's chalet style semi-house, where the first floor
>> bedrooms are always cold. Gutters are at ground floor ceiling height.
>> End brick wall goes up to roof and is CWI. Upper floor windows are set
>> in the roof slope and have no internal cills. There is CWI at front and
>> rear, up to roof gutter/roof level.
>>
>> There is no insulation at front, or rear, between plasterboard wall and
>> angle of tiled roof, which makes the place drafty, cold and expensive
>> to heat.
>
> Why draughty? That'd be one of the first things to fix.
That is good advice.
> On 10 Mar 2020 at 12:13:24 GMT, "Harry Bloomfield, Esq."
> <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> A friend has a 1960's chalet style semi-house, where the first floor
>> bedrooms are always cold. Gutters are at ground floor ceiling height.
>> End brick wall goes up to roof and is CWI. Upper floor windows are set
>> in the roof slope and have no internal cills. There is CWI at front and
>> rear, up to roof gutter/roof level.
>>
>> There is no insulation at front, or rear, between plasterboard wall and
>> angle of tiled roof, which makes the place drafty, cold and expensive
>> to heat.
>
> Why draughty? That'd be one of the first things to fix.
Decent double glazing also makes a big difference.
The house I mentioned had metal, single glazed, windows when we bought it.
Having modern, quality, uVPC double glazing fitted made a huge difference.
Unknown
Mar 11, 2020, 5:50:14 AM3/11/20
to
Brian Reay pretended :
out of fitted cupboard.
them on the upper floor because of the weird design/ lack of depth
between roof and wall.
>> Why draughty? That'd be one of the first things to fix.
>
> That is good advice.
I suspect rather than an actual draught, it is just cold air dropping
>
> That is good advice.
out of fitted cupboard.
>
> Decent double glazing also makes a big difference.
He has that. He said the installer struggled to work out how to fit
> Decent double glazing also makes a big difference.
them on the upper floor because of the weird design/ lack of depth
between roof and wall.
Brian Reay
Mar 11, 2020, 6:07:29 AM3/11/20
to
On 11/03/2020 09:50, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
> Brian Reay pretended :
>>> Why draughty? That'd be one of the first things to fix.
>>
>> That is good advice.
>
> I suspect rather than an actual draught, it is just cold air dropping
> out of fitted cupboard.
>>
>> Decent double glazing also makes a big difference.
>
> He has that. He said the installer struggled to work out how to fit them
> on the upper floor because of the weird design/ lack of depth between
> roof and wall.
>
While he has fitted DG, even a 'lash up' with clear polythene can make a
> Brian Reay pretended :
>>> Why draughty? That'd be one of the first things to fix.
>>
>> That is good advice.
>
> I suspect rather than an actual draught, it is just cold air dropping
> out of fitted cupboard.
>>
>> Decent double glazing also makes a big difference.
>
> He has that. He said the installer struggled to work out how to fit them
> on the upper floor because of the weird design/ lack of depth between
> roof and wall.
>
huge difference. We rented when we were students and one place had huge
windows which were terrible for heat loss. Senior Management, who is
good with a sewing machine, made some lined curtains etc but even those
struggled. I added some polythene in the winter which helped a lot. The
CH was blown air, not very good, and expensive to run. Plus it was only
'piped' to a few of the rooms.
Tim Lamb
Mar 11, 2020, 6:15:14 AM3/11/20
to
In message <r4a002$3qj$1...@gioia.aioe.org>, RJH <patch...@gmx.com>
writes
Chalet bungalows often have wide soffits. Mine has 6mm ply slotted in to
the vent strip. I cut sections out between the joists for access and
screwed on an overlapped cover. With fresh paint it is not noticeable.
--
Tim Lamb
writes
the vent strip. I cut sections out between the joists for access and
screwed on an overlapped cover. With fresh paint it is not noticeable.
--
Tim Lamb
Unknown
Mar 11, 2020, 6:26:15 AM3/11/20
to
It happens that Tim Lamb formulated :
pass that suggestion on..
> Chalet bungalows often have wide soffits. Mine has 6mm ply slotted in to the
> vent strip. I cut sections out between the joists for access and screwed on
> an overlapped cover. With fresh paint it is not noticeable.
Good point I had not thought of, an access point via the soffit. I will
> vent strip. I cut sections out between the joists for access and screwed on
> an overlapped cover. With fresh paint it is not noticeable.
pass that suggestion on..
Tim Lamb
Mar 13, 2020, 7:31:13 AM3/13/20
to
In message <r4aec3$497$1...@dont-email.me>, Harry Bloomfield
<?.?@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk.invalid> writes
Further to the above. We have dormer windows in several of the upstairs
rooms. I cut access doors in the internal *cheeks* and made insulated
cupboards.
--
Tim Lamb
<?.?@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk.invalid> writes
rooms. I cut access doors in the internal *cheeks* and made insulated
cupboards.
--
Tim Lamb
Grunge Whiffer
Sep 20, 2021, 10:01:21 PM9/20/21
to
> CWI
COLD never bothered me anyway :)
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/chalet-style-house-insulation-1413284-.htm
COLD never bothered me anyway :)
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/chalet-style-house-insulation-1413284-.htm
Tim+
Sep 21, 2021, 2:46:01 AM9/21/21
to
Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
*must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls
*must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls
Brian Gaff (Sofa)
Sep 21, 2021, 3:09:49 AM9/21/21
to
I was just wondering if it was a random post.
I was going to reply Elephant
Brian
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"Tim+" <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1974464410.653899250.956...@news.individual.net...
I was going to reply Elephant
Brian
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Paul
Sep 21, 2021, 3:36:57 AM9/21/21
to
Tim+ wrote:
> Grunge Whiffer <43a59f172cc11cfb...@example.com> wrote:
>>> CWI
> COLD never bothered me anyway :)
>
>
> Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
> *must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
>
> Tim
>
Original Post.
> Grunge Whiffer <43a59f172cc11cfb...@example.com> wrote:
>>> CWI
> COLD never bothered me anyway :)
>
>
> Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
> *must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
>
> Tim
>
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cr48095%242ub%241%40dont-email.me%3E
Subject: Chalet style house insulation.
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:13:24 GMT
Second Post.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3CmaydnbmpNcNqEfrDnZ2dnUU78evNnZ2d%40brightview.co.uk%3E
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:50:00 +0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: Jimk <jk98...@gmail.com>
If you're seeing 1970, that's the beginning of the Epoch for Unix.
I'm not seeing that here. Perhaps that means a date conversion
in some software on the way to your screen, has decided the
info is out-of-range, and it has clamped the date to the nearest
reasonable thing (the Epoch).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix_time
And your UserAgent is:
NewsTap/5.5 (iPad)
OS family Unix-like, based on Darwin (BSD), iOS
So then the question is, why did it have trouble converting
the date ?
Too many gubbins on the end of the line there ?
The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
Paul
The Natural Philosopher
Sep 21, 2021, 3:46:00 AM9/21/21
to
On 21/09/2021 07:45, Tim+ wrote:
> Grunge Whiffer <43a59f172cc11cfb...@example.com> wrote:
>>> CWI
> COLD never bothered me anyway :)
>
>
> Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
> *must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
>
Before Usenet even existed, in fact. Abut the time the UNIX clock
> Grunge Whiffer <43a59f172cc11cfb...@example.com> wrote:
>>> CWI
> COLD never bothered me anyway :)
>
>
> Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
> *must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
>
started though...
--
"A point of view can be a dangerous luxury when substituted for insight
and understanding".
Marshall McLuhan
Tim+
Sep 21, 2021, 5:59:52 AM9/21/21
to
Paul <nos...@needed.invalid> wrote:
> Tim+ wrote:
>> Grunge Whiffer <43a59f172cc11cfb...@example.com> wrote:
>>>> CWI
>> COLD never bothered me anyway :)
>>
>>
>> Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
>> *must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
> Original Post.
>
> http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cr48095%242ub%241%40dont-email.me%3E
PerhapsI should have made it clear that it’s the HOH website link that’s
> Tim+ wrote:
>> Grunge Whiffer <43a59f172cc11cfb...@example.com> wrote:
>>>> CWI
>> COLD never bothered me anyway :)
>>
>>
>> Weird. First reply to the thread is dated 51 years ago. I think this really
>> *must* be the record for the oldest post. ;-)
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
> Original Post.
>
> http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cr48095%242ub%241%40dont-email.me%3E
clocked up the date.
Follow this link and you’ll see what I’m on about.
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/chalet-style-house-insulation-1413284-.htm
Bob Eager
Sep 21, 2021, 6:02:47 AM9/21/21
to
On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 03:36:56 -0400, Paul wrote:
> The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
Try checking on the website. That says 51 years.
> The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor
Paul
Sep 21, 2021, 5:03:15 PM9/21/21
to
Bob Eager wrote:
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 03:36:56 -0400, Paul wrote:
>
>> The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
>
> Try checking on the website. That says 51 years.
>
But that is their interpretation of this.
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 03:36:56 -0400, Paul wrote:
>
>> The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
>
> Try checking on the website. That says 51 years.
>
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:50:00 +0000 (GMT+00:00) <===
From: Jimk <jk98...@gmail.com>
References: <r48095$2ub$1...@dont-email.me>
Subject: Re:Chalet style house insulation.
The JimK post doesn't have "Thu, Jan 1, 1970 12:00 AM"
anywhere in the raw content.
That's why I provided the Howard links, so you could see
for yourself that JimK did not post such a string.
All it takes is poorly coded conversion routines (that
call perfectly-correct system routines), to screw up
like that. Somebody did not check for an ERRNO before
using the value. It's not some time-library making
the mistake here. It's an applications programmer
who is abusing the results of the conversion routines.
Every input you feed to that library, must have
the inputs validated. In the JimK example, I
would be giving the string a "hair cut" by removing
the "(GMT+00:00)" part, which adds no value. The
+0000 next to it, already says that.
Paul
Tim+
Sep 22, 2021, 2:54:36 AM9/22/21
to
Paul <nos...@needed.invalid> wrote:
> Bob Eager wrote:
>> On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 03:36:56 -0400, Paul wrote:
>>
>>> The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
>>
>> Try checking on the website. That says 51 years.
>>
>
> But that is their interpretation of this.
>
> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:50:00 +0000 (GMT+00:00) <===
> From: Jimk <jk98...@gmail.com>
> References: <r48095$2ub$1...@dont-email.me>
> Subject: Re:Chalet style house insulation.
>
> The JimK post doesn't have "Thu, Jan 1, 1970 12:00 AM"
> anywhere in the raw content.
>
> That's why I provided the Howard links, so you could see
> for yourself that JimK did not post such a string.
Of course he didn’t! It’s just a HOH fuck up.
> Bob Eager wrote:
>> On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 03:36:56 -0400, Paul wrote:
>>
>>> The dates all look "normal" on my newsclient.
>>
>> Try checking on the website. That says 51 years.
>>
>
> But that is their interpretation of this.
>
> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:50:00 +0000 (GMT+00:00) <===
> From: Jimk <jk98...@gmail.com>
> References: <r48095$2ub$1...@dont-email.me>
> Subject: Re:Chalet style house insulation.
>
> The JimK post doesn't have "Thu, Jan 1, 1970 12:00 AM"
> anywhere in the raw content.
>
> That's why I provided the Howard links, so you could see
> for yourself that JimK did not post such a string.
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