How to re-start a warm (but not hot) 2 stroke strimmer?

[tin...@isbd.co.uk]

I recently bought a Ryobi RLT-30CES strimmer to use instead of my
RBC-1000EX electric one where extension leads won't reach. They both
use the same "quick change" attachment system and I'm pretty happy
with them.

However I find the petrol one very difficult to *re-start* if I have
stopped for a few minutes, for example to change attachments.

I can start it from cold with no problems, it sometimes takes a little
while to warm up and run consistently but that's all. I don't think
I've ever had a problem starting from cold.

Similarly if it's hot, i.e. I've just stopped it for a few seconds for
some reason, then it just restarts with a pull of the cord. I usually
find that it's easier to restart with the throttle left at tickover in
this case.

.... but if it's warm, as opposed to hot, I'm finding it a real pig to
restart. Is there some consistent technique on can use to avoid, on
the one hand, flooding it, but on the other hand to be sure it's
getting a rich enough mixture to start?

The cold start sequence is:-

Pump to fill the carburretor bowl.
Four pulls with full choke.
Switch to half choke.
Pull and it should start (needs some throttle)
Wait to warm up
Switch to no choke

The hot start sequence (according to the manual) is:-
Check there's fuel in the carburretor bowl.
Pull and it should start

So, what do I do next if it *doesn't* start when hot? Go to half
choke and try again, do the whole cold start sequence (except pumping
to fill the bowl), or what? What often seems to happen is that I get
worn out trying to restart it, I remove the plug and give it a few
pulls to ensure it's not flooded and then a cold start sequence works
because it is just about cold.

--
Chris Green

[Tim Downie]

tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:

> So, what do I do next if it *doesn't* start when hot?

Pray (or let it go cold). ;-)

I've got a two stroke strimmer that's similarly stubborn. I now try to do
all my strimming in one session so that it never cools down too much.

Tim

[Dave Liquorice]

On 21 Aug 2008 08:43:01 GMT, tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:

> So, what do I do next if it *doesn't* start when hot? Go to half
> choke and try again, do the whole cold start sequence (except pumping
> to fill the bowl), or what?

When warm any choke is probably not a good idea. Have you tried pulling it
with no choke and the throttle held open?

--
Cheers
Dave.

[Andy Dingley]

On 21 Aug, 09:43, tinn...@isbd.co.uk wrote:
> I recently bought a Ryobi RLT-30CES strimmer

> However I find the petrol one very difficult to *re-start* if I have

> stopped for a few minutes, for example to change attachments.

I have this problem too (two Ryobis). It's OK cold or hot, but a pig
when warm. So I don't stop it when it's warm until it's thoroughly
warmed up. Start it cold and run it light for a while to get it good
and warm. Don't be in too much of a hurry to cut something with it, in
case it stalls while it's still in the "slightly warm" stage.

Another tip is to check that the cylinder is bolted firmly to the
crankcase! One of mine came loose here, and of course on a two-stroke
that's a loss of compression. No wonder it was being awkward. Only
took a few minuites to tighten it up again, but you need to pop the
tank and the end off the crankcase to get access and the screws are
one of the rarer intermediate Torx sizes (27?) that you might not
always have to hand.

[tin...@isbd.co.uk]

Yes, that's the "obvious" place to start isn't it. It works when the
strimmer is hot but not when it's less than hot.

--
Chris Green

[tin...@isbd.co.uk]

Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> On 21 Aug, 09:43, tinn...@isbd.co.uk wrote:
> > I recently bought a Ryobi RLT-30CES strimmer
>
> > However I find the petrol one very difficult to *re-start* if I have
> > stopped for a few minutes, for example to change attachments.
>
> I have this problem too (two Ryobis). It's OK cold or hot, but a pig
> when warm. So I don't stop it when it's warm until it's thoroughly
> warmed up. Start it cold and run it light for a while to get it good
> and warm. Don't be in too much of a hurry to cut something with it, in
> case it stalls while it's still in the "slightly warm" stage.
>

OK, thanks, it's not just me then. As you say, knowing there's an
issue when starting warm means one can avoid doing it as far as
possible. I just wondered if I was doing something wrong.

> Another tip is to check that the cylinder is bolted firmly to the
> crankcase! One of mine came loose here, and of course on a two-stroke
> that's a loss of compression. No wonder it was being awkward. Only
> took a few minuites to tighten it up again, but you need to pop the
> tank and the end off the crankcase to get access and the screws are
> one of the rarer intermediate Torx sizes (27?) that you might not
> always have to hand.

I'll do that, I had (a longish time ago) a McCulloch strimmer that had
exactly that problem.

--
Chris Green

[The Natural Philosopher]

generally a couple of hefty pulls wide open as a first base, then half
choke as second base, but clear the choke as soon as it fires.

[tin...@isbd.co.uk]

OK, thanks, I'll try that but also I'll try to avoid the "warm start"
as far as possible anyway.

--
Chris Green

[The Natural Philosopher]

if you had spebt as much time as I had trying to get a Frog 80 model
diesel engine to start in my youth, you would be simply amazed at how
easy a petrol 2-stroke is..;-)