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Replastering, insulation and Building Regs
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Neil Williams
Feb 3, 2012, 8:21:22 AM2/3/12
to
The Building Regulations seem to say that if you replaster the inside
of an external wall, and you are doing more than 25% of the wall area,
you have to upgrade the insulation. This involves either cavity wall
insulation or putting several centimetres of insulation behind
plasterboard on the inside.
Does anyone know if that means 25% of the *total* (outside) wall area,
or 25% of the wall area within that room?
Neil
of an external wall, and you are doing more than 25% of the wall area,
you have to upgrade the insulation. This involves either cavity wall
insulation or putting several centimetres of insulation behind
plasterboard on the inside.
Does anyone know if that means 25% of the *total* (outside) wall area,
or 25% of the wall area within that room?
Neil
RobertL
Feb 3, 2012, 8:30:59 AM2/3/12
to
bathroom. I wanted to add insulation to the wall to mitigate the use
of a new but non-standard (single glazed) window. The BCO said I
could do so as long as I did not remove more than 25% of the old
plaster from the bathroom wall (ie.e the wall area inside the
bathroom). If I took off more than 25% then the insulation would be
mandatory (not voluntary) so could not be used in mitigation for the
window.
Robert
Kipper at sea
Feb 3, 2012, 12:23:12 PM2/3/12
to
to be up graded
Jim K
Feb 3, 2012, 4:27:29 PM2/3/12
to
On Feb 3, 1:30 pm, RobertL <robertml...@yahoo.com> wrote:
outside walls - you could replaster one of those 2 outside walls in a
"sitting" without upping the insulation to the letter of the regs? -
(seems crap? as the two internal walls you would not want to
insulated? and who would ever prove you *didn't* do it in two stages?
Jim K
js.b1
Feb 3, 2012, 4:41:21 PM2/3/12
to
To OP...
- 25% of that wall.
- 5% rule applies - ie, if the loss of room space would be >5% you can
reduce insulation accordingly.
- Reasonable rule applies - ie, if you can no longer open the door
then obviously you reduce insulation until you can. Classic example
here would be a larder door with the hinges tight against the wall -
at first glance you could reduce the door width but in practice that
could eliminate the areas ability to be converted into a toilet
depending on door / kitchen (food preparation area).
If doing works under BCO control then bluntly I would do the minimum
to the wall to get it serviceable - as in <25% with moisture resistant
plasterboard with any suitable paint (gloss even) and absolute minimum
of cheap tiles PVA'd on. Then as soon as all ticked off and out the
door, rip the rubbish off and bond 6-10-12.5-20-30-40-50-60mm Marmox
or PCS (cheap clones are £14/sheet) to the wall with Mapei Keraflex
then perhaps a 3mm plaster skim (so tiles removeable without trashing
the insulation) then tile etc as normal. You get a bathroom which is
warm with next to no heating required. Many UK bathrooms are two
outside walls, tiled, and as cold as an outside toilet. Do not use
Keraquick unless the pack is fresh because if you are tired you will
be an awful lot more tired as it starts to stiffen on you long before
the 2hr workable time is up and you race to get stuff stuck on.
It is a nonsense rule where "reasonable common sense" should be
applied.
For my mother I am progressively insulating the living **** out of
everything. Even occasionally an internal wall where it means an
occasionally used room (tiny kitchen) can be warmed from background
level very rapidly. Insulation is seconds, offcuts of "marmox clones"
and so on. Money saved will repair an utterly shagged kitchen roof
(more shagged than I thought possible, might as well pour epoxy into
the tubular woodlice holes and use the woodlice as a structural item).
Some walls are 1 brick, others are 2" stud n rubble infill and thus
insulation makes a tremendous difference.
- 25% of that wall.
- 5% rule applies - ie, if the loss of room space would be >5% you can
reduce insulation accordingly.
- Reasonable rule applies - ie, if you can no longer open the door
then obviously you reduce insulation until you can. Classic example
here would be a larder door with the hinges tight against the wall -
at first glance you could reduce the door width but in practice that
could eliminate the areas ability to be converted into a toilet
depending on door / kitchen (food preparation area).
If doing works under BCO control then bluntly I would do the minimum
to the wall to get it serviceable - as in <25% with moisture resistant
plasterboard with any suitable paint (gloss even) and absolute minimum
of cheap tiles PVA'd on. Then as soon as all ticked off and out the
door, rip the rubbish off and bond 6-10-12.5-20-30-40-50-60mm Marmox
or PCS (cheap clones are £14/sheet) to the wall with Mapei Keraflex
then perhaps a 3mm plaster skim (so tiles removeable without trashing
the insulation) then tile etc as normal. You get a bathroom which is
warm with next to no heating required. Many UK bathrooms are two
outside walls, tiled, and as cold as an outside toilet. Do not use
Keraquick unless the pack is fresh because if you are tired you will
be an awful lot more tired as it starts to stiffen on you long before
the 2hr workable time is up and you race to get stuff stuck on.
It is a nonsense rule where "reasonable common sense" should be
applied.
For my mother I am progressively insulating the living **** out of
everything. Even occasionally an internal wall where it means an
occasionally used room (tiny kitchen) can be warmed from background
level very rapidly. Insulation is seconds, offcuts of "marmox clones"
and so on. Money saved will repair an utterly shagged kitchen roof
(more shagged than I thought possible, might as well pour epoxy into
the tubular woodlice holes and use the woodlice as a structural item).
Some walls are 1 brick, others are 2" stud n rubble infill and thus
insulation makes a tremendous difference.
Hugo Nebula
Feb 9, 2012, 5:17:59 PM2/9/12
to
[Default] On Fri, 3 Feb 2012 05:21:22 -0800 (PST), a certain
chimpanzee, Neil Williams <pace...@gmail.com>, randomly hit the
The 'new' (i.e., 2010) Approved Doc L1B says that it is 50% of the
surface of an individual element or 25% of the total building
envelope. It then goes into mind-numbing detail about precisely what
does & what doesn't count.
In the real world, if you're doing this as part of other works that
would require a Building Regulations application, then check.
Otherwise just do what you feel like.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have I strayed"?
chimpanzee, Neil Williams <pace...@gmail.com>, randomly hit the
surface of an individual element or 25% of the total building
envelope. It then goes into mind-numbing detail about precisely what
does & what doesn't count.
In the real world, if you're doing this as part of other works that
would require a Building Regulations application, then check.
Otherwise just do what you feel like.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have I strayed"?
fred
Feb 9, 2012, 6:08:33 PM2/9/12
to
In article <60h8j7tv3a93p4am1...@4ax.com>, Hugo Nebula
<ab...@local.host> writes
Basic tips when doing what you like is to:
1. Apply subtle opaque film or white out to windows, it doesn't pay to
advertise.
2. Avoid using a skip, it's a red flag, store waste out of sight and
dispose of at a later date.
I'm not suggesting cutting corners, do the best job you can but don't be
regs obsessed.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
<ab...@local.host> writes
>[Default] On Fri, 3 Feb 2012 05:21:22 -0800 (PST), a certain
>chimpanzee, Neil Williams <pace...@gmail.com>, randomly hit the
>keyboard and wrote:
>
>>The Building Regulations seem to say that if you replaster the inside
>>of an external wall, and you are doing more than 25% of the wall area,
>>you have to upgrade the insulation. This involves either cavity wall
>>insulation or putting several centimetres of insulation behind
>>plasterboard on the inside.
>>
>>Does anyone know if that means 25% of the *total* (outside) wall area,
>>or 25% of the wall area within that room?
>
>The 'new' (i.e., 2010) Approved Doc L1B says that it is 50% of the
>surface of an individual element or 25% of the total building
>envelope. It then goes into mind-numbing detail about precisely what
>does & what doesn't count.
>
>In the real world, if you're doing this as part of other works that
>would require a Building Regulations application, then check.
>Otherwise just do what you feel like.
Good practical advice.
>chimpanzee, Neil Williams <pace...@gmail.com>, randomly hit the
>keyboard and wrote:
>
>>The Building Regulations seem to say that if you replaster the inside
>>of an external wall, and you are doing more than 25% of the wall area,
>>you have to upgrade the insulation. This involves either cavity wall
>>insulation or putting several centimetres of insulation behind
>>plasterboard on the inside.
>>
>>Does anyone know if that means 25% of the *total* (outside) wall area,
>>or 25% of the wall area within that room?
>
>The 'new' (i.e., 2010) Approved Doc L1B says that it is 50% of the
>surface of an individual element or 25% of the total building
>envelope. It then goes into mind-numbing detail about precisely what
>does & what doesn't count.
>
>In the real world, if you're doing this as part of other works that
>would require a Building Regulations application, then check.
>Otherwise just do what you feel like.
Basic tips when doing what you like is to:
1. Apply subtle opaque film or white out to windows, it doesn't pay to
advertise.
2. Avoid using a skip, it's a red flag, store waste out of sight and
dispose of at a later date.
I'm not suggesting cutting corners, do the best job you can but don't be
regs obsessed.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
NT
Feb 10, 2012, 8:50:58 AM2/10/12
to
On Feb 9, 11:08 pm, fred <n...@for.mail> wrote:
> In article <60h8j7tv3a93p4am1q8vnbn8oa1kvbe...@4ax.com>, Hugo Nebula
didnt meet the latest rules. In principle, how long would one have to
wait between one part of the task and the next?
NT
> In article <60h8j7tv3a93p4am1q8vnbn8oa1kvbe...@4ax.com>, Hugo Nebula
> <ab...@local.host> writes
>
>
>
> >[Default] On Fri, 3 Feb 2012 05:21:22 -0800 (PST), a certain
> >chimpanzee, Neil Williams <pacer...@gmail.com>, randomly hit the
>
>
>
> >[Default] On Fri, 3 Feb 2012 05:21:22 -0800 (PST), a certain
> >keyboard and wrote:
>
> >>The Building Regulations seem to say that if you replaster the inside
> >>of an external wall, and you are doing more than 25% of the wall area,
> >>you have to upgrade the insulation. This involves either cavity wall
> >>insulation or putting several centimetres of insulation behind
> >>plasterboard on the inside.
>
> >>Does anyone know if that means 25% of the *total* (outside) wall area,
> >>or 25% of the wall area within that room?
>
> >The 'new' (i.e., 2010) Approved Doc L1B says that it is 50% of the
> >surface of an individual element or 25% of the total building
> >envelope. It then goes into mind-numbing detail about precisely what
> >does & what doesn't count.
>
> >In the real world, if you're doing this as part of other works that
> >would require a Building Regulations application, then check.
> >Otherwise just do what you feel like.
>
> Good practical advice.
>
> Basic tips when doing what you like is to:
>
> 1. Apply subtle opaque film or white out to windows, it doesn't pay to
> advertise.
>
> 2. Avoid using a skip, it's a red flag, store waste out of sight and
> dispose of at a later date.
>
> I'm not suggesting cutting corners, do the best job you can but don't be
> regs obsessed.
Lets say you replastered the 3 walls of a bathroom one by one, and
>
> >>The Building Regulations seem to say that if you replaster the inside
> >>of an external wall, and you are doing more than 25% of the wall area,
> >>you have to upgrade the insulation. This involves either cavity wall
> >>insulation or putting several centimetres of insulation behind
> >>plasterboard on the inside.
>
> >>Does anyone know if that means 25% of the *total* (outside) wall area,
> >>or 25% of the wall area within that room?
>
> >The 'new' (i.e., 2010) Approved Doc L1B says that it is 50% of the
> >surface of an individual element or 25% of the total building
> >envelope. It then goes into mind-numbing detail about precisely what
> >does & what doesn't count.
>
> >In the real world, if you're doing this as part of other works that
> >would require a Building Regulations application, then check.
> >Otherwise just do what you feel like.
>
> Good practical advice.
>
> Basic tips when doing what you like is to:
>
> 1. Apply subtle opaque film or white out to windows, it doesn't pay to
> advertise.
>
> 2. Avoid using a skip, it's a red flag, store waste out of sight and
> dispose of at a later date.
>
> I'm not suggesting cutting corners, do the best job you can but don't be
> regs obsessed.
didnt meet the latest rules. In principle, how long would one have to
wait between one part of the task and the next?
NT
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