Wood glue, PVA, etc.
Roger Mills
all my old glue had dried up so I bought a mini tube of Evo-Stik wood
glue (about 50 ml?) from my local hardware shop for about �2.50
A little later, I needed to prepare a wall for tiling, so I bought 5
litres of No Nonsense PVA from Screwfix for about 8 quid.
It appears to be exactly the same stuff - as does Copydex and wallpaper
overlap adhesive.
*Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle differences? If I can
use PVA for all of these things, my 5L container will last me for the
rest of this life, and well into the next! <g>
--
Cheers,
Roger
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stuart noble
> A short while ago I was doing a bit of woodwork which needed gluing, and
> all my old glue had dried up so I bought a mini tube of Evo-Stik wood
> glue (about 50 ml?) from my local hardware shop for about �2.50
>
> A little later, I needed to prepare a wall for tiling, so I bought 5
> litres of No Nonsense PVA from Screwfix for about 8 quid.
>
> It appears to be exactly the same stuff - as does Copydex and wallpaper
> overlap adhesive.
>
> *Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle differences? If I can
> use PVA for all of these things, my 5L container will last me for the
> rest of this life, and well into the next! <g>
There is a difference between pukka Evostick pva and No Nonsense. The
former is noticeably more concentrated, and the latter probably bulked
out with fillers/extenders of some kind. In practice it doesn't seem to
matter much
The Natural Philosopher
I have found zero difference myself, except in dilution.
That is, wood glues need to be low dilution, paper glues more so and
'paint it on as a sealer' massively so.
I have certainly diluted PVA of a wood working sort for sealant purposes..
Tabby
wrote:
The no-nonsense stuff claims to be 48% as well, so I dared. I usually
stay well away from that brand.
NT
John Rumm
> A short while ago I was doing a bit of woodwork which needed gluing, and
> all my old glue had dried up so I bought a mini tube of Evo-Stik wood
> glue (about 50 ml?) from my local hardware shop for about �2.50
>
> A little later, I needed to prepare a wall for tiling, so I bought 5
> litres of No Nonsense PVA from Screwfix for about 8 quid.
>
> It appears to be exactly the same stuff - as does Copydex and wallpaper
> overlap adhesive.
Years since I have used copydex - it used to be some organic fishy
smelling stuff that was a bit rubbery when set. Has it changed?
> *Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle differences? If I can
> use PVA for all of these things, my 5L container will last me for the
> rest of this life, and well into the next! <g>
There are differences, but for non critical applications I doubt it
makes much difference. When woodworking the difference in speed and grab
between say Titebond original and vanilla PVA is noticeable enough to
make it worth paying for the named one IME. However if you need lots of
"open" glue up time, or you don't mind waiting, the thinner watery
versions will do.
--
Cheers,
John.
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chris French
Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>On 27/10/2010 11:01, Roger Mills wrote:
>
>> A short while ago I was doing a bit of woodwork which needed gluing, and
>> all my old glue had dried up so I bought a mini tube of Evo-Stik wood
>> glue (about 50 ml?) from my local hardware shop for about �2.50
>>
>> A little later, I needed to prepare a wall for tiling, so I bought 5
>> litres of No Nonsense PVA from Screwfix for about 8 quid.
>>
>> It appears to be exactly the same stuff - as does Copydex and wallpaper
>> overlap adhesive.
>
>Years since I have used copydex - it used to be some organic fishy
>smelling stuff that was a bit rubbery when set. Has it changed?
>
No still the same. It's some sort of latex adhesive isn't it rather than
PVA. My favourite glue smell I think. We have some around as it's
useful for some crafty stuff, esp where you want some flexibility.
--
Chris French
Spamlet
"chris French" <newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote in message
news:6zsN+8TY...@blackhole.familyfrench.co.uk...
Yes, Copydex is latex plus, I think, ammonia. I comes into its own for
sticking fabric and even joining carpets - with appropriate backing hessian.
Only problem with trying to keep a handy supply is that, even kept in the
fridge, it has generally set solid by the time one gets round to using it
once it's been opened.
S
>
Tabby
Opened it today, its going mouldy already....
NT
Andy Dingley
> *Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle differences?
White glue is generally plain PVA. If it's yellowish, then it's an
aliphatic resin and there is a difference.
I use a lot of wood glue, of about four sorts:
* Titebond II (I is obsolete, III is crap) The exemplar of the
yellow glue. My general bench glue.
* Hot hide glue. For good furniture. I probably use the most of this,
when I'm really working. You need a thermostatic glue pot, then it's
easy.
* PVA. Yes, cheap builder's PVA in 5 litre plastic cans. I use this
for cheap big jobs, laminating, making stage sets etc. I also use it
diluted for biscuit jointing. It's worth getting a couple of
Axminster's cheap squeezy glue bottles for using it. Otherwise the
plastic bottles from hair dye.
* Epoxy. Posts passim.
Andy Dingley
> On 27/10/2010 11:01, Roger Mills wrote:
> Years since I have used copydex - it used to be some organic fishy
> smelling stuff that was a bit rubbery when set. Has it changed?
No, it's always been a "rubber solution glue" (Thankyou Blue Peter).
No connection to PVA, or wood glue. Good for fabric and essential for
work with natural rubber or latex rubber foam.
Note that it's not the same as "rubber solution", i.e. latex rubber in
bulk solution. I don't know what they've done to it, but it's far
stickier than the plain latex.
Damned expensive these days though.
Clive George
I always remember it being utterly useless. But that was probably not on
fabric, and it did clean off well.
The Natural Philosopher
Copydex is THE way to apply fabric to wood.
PVA works but takes a long time to dry.
Used to work in guitar loudspeaker manufacturing place..leather cloth
and ply...
Bolted
> On 27 Oct, 11:01, Roger Mills <watt.ty...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > *Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle differences?
>
> White glue is generally plain PVA. If it's yellowish, then it's an
> aliphatic resin and there is a difference.
As far as I can penetrate the marketing bullshit, the much vaunted
yellow "aliphatic resin" glues are PVAs with added aliphatic resin
tackifiers (see eg Piccotac) to give a more instant grab, and with
added yellow colourant as an aid to marketing. (So, e.g., you can
get aliphatic resin modified PVAs from industrial sources in a choice
of white or yellow). The basic glue is still a PVA, the aliphatic
resins are "just" a modifier. Of course they modify the properties,
but the marketing seems to rather overstate the distinction. I think
the distinction between a cross-linking PVA and non-cross-linking PVA
is a more fundamental difference than tackifier levels.
Having said all that, I'm not a chemist and may be talking from my
hoop.
JTM
> > *Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle
> > differences? If I can use PVA for all of these things,
> > my 5L container will last me for the rest of this life,
> > and well into the next! <g>
adhesives: ?? Johann ?? Does anyone have any of his advice
archived? and would it be worth including in the Wiki?
John
--
John Mulrooney
NOTE Email address IS correct but might not be checked for a while.
No matter how early you arrive, someone else is in line first.
stuart noble
> Roger Mills wrote:
>>> *Are* they all the same, or are there any subtle
>>> differences? If I can use PVA for all of these things,
>>> my 5L container will last me for the rest of this life,
>>> and well into the next!<g>
> I seem to recall a knowledgeable poster on this group re
> adhesives: ?? Johann ?? Does anyone have any of his advice
> archived? and would it be worth including in the Wiki?
>
> John
>
Probably John Schmitt