Cleaning mica panels in a toaster

[Blueyonder]

I've searched the 'net, and can't believe I can't find the answer to this
one. I'm sure this group can come up trumps.

I have a Dualit toaster, that is no longer toasting evenly. The elements are
covered with transparent panels, as clear as glass, but look like they could
be mica (the edges are slightly flaky). The mica panels are covered in
white, crusty spots (probably cheese and butter splashes).

So - what can I use to clean these deposits? The panels are very clear, and
I don't want to use anything that will abrade the surfaces. A dry toothbrush
alone does not get the deposits off, and I am a bit wary of using water or
soap.

Any suggestions?

-- JJ

[Mary Fisher]

"Blueyonder" <jud...@acadweb.co.uk> wrote in message
news:6jgXf.302840$YJ4.1...@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

I'd like to know that too!

Also, what gauge of wire to use to replace the elements.

Mary
>
> -- JJ
>
>

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <442d95d0$0$826$4c56...@master.news.zetnet.net>,

"Mary Fisher" <mary....@zetnet.co.uk> writes:
>
> Also, what gauge of wire to use to replace the elements.

It's nickel-chromium wire, and the guage of wire will depend
on the model. Often it's in a ribbon profile. I have repaired
them sometimes by crimping broken ends together, but you have
to be very careful a loose end isn't going to be able to
touch something it shouldn't. A bootlace ferrule is the
right thing to crimp with, but a folded over steel washer
lasted about 20 years before it needed replacing in a 50
year old Russell Hobs toaster. Nearly all breakages of
toaster wires I've come across have been due to poking
cutlery into the toaster, never to the wire burning out.
I've seen a small number of cases where the failure was
due to a bad connection at one end of the wire too.

--
Andrew Gabriel

[Jason]

"Mary Fisher" <mary....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:442d95d0$0$826$4c56...@master.news.zetnet.net...

It is definately mica. It covers the elements in approx 8cm square pieces,
rivetted on, each piece slightly overlapping.

I wouldn't like to guess at the element wires themselves though. As well as
the guage, there is the material to take account of - it won't be plain
copper for sure.

-- JJ

[meow...@care2.com]

The only effective way to clean the mica is to wet wash them. Its not
usually needed though. Mica should be treated as semi fragile. For the
sake of anyone thinking of self darwinating, yes you need to give it a
full week to dry out properly afterwards.

Element wire is easier to rejoin than replace, but the join is always
at risk of oxidising and refrying.

NT

[Andy Dingley]

On 31 Mar 2006 21:17:20 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

>It's nickel-chromium wire, and the guage of wire will depend
>on the model. Often it's in a ribbon profile.

There's some complex reason for the use of ribbon that I can't remember.
Anyone ?

>A bootlace ferrule is the right thing to crimp with,

Agreed. It need to be long and give good contact over a decent area. If
it's only small then you get a hot spot and the joint fails again in no
time.

[The Medway Handyman]

Blueyonder wrote:
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> -- JJ

Buy a new toaster.

--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

[Sewer Rat]

"Mary Fisher" <mary....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:442d95d0$0$826$4c56...@master.news.zetnet.net...
>

I had to replace an element in one of these when a currant from a teacake
carbonised and shorted the thing out.

http://www.chromekitchen.co.uk sell replacement elements, they're quite
fast at delivering them too. The new mica elements can also replace the
older style ones.

HTH

--
Sewer Rat

"We're all in it together, kid"
- Archibald "Harry" Tuttle

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <spns2296riql9o8b0...@4ax.com>,

Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> writes:
> On 31 Mar 2006 21:17:20 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
> Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>It's nickel-chromium wire, and the guage of wire will depend
>>on the model. Often it's in a ribbon profile.
>
> There's some complex reason for the use of ribbon that I can't remember.
> Anyone ?

Reasons that spring to mind would be to provide some direction
to the radiated heat and it allows you to adjust the surface
area to cross-sectional area so you can adjust the operating
temperature without relying solely on the length and cross-
sectional area to get the right resistance.

>>A bootlace ferrule is the right thing to crimp with,
>
> Agreed. It need to be long and give good contact over a decent area. If
> it's only small then you get a hot spot and the joint fails again in no
> time.

I usually unthread a bit of the element to get an overlap at
the repair site, scrape the oxide off, and then crimp. You
have to make sure the ferrule can't vibrate or sag when the
element expands such that it might touch anything. It's best
to fit it as near as possible to a point where the element
wire is supported. If the fault was caused by cutlery being
inserted (in some cases, I have found half a canteen of
cutlery still inside the toaster), I generally won't repair
it until it's covered by RCD protection.

--
Andrew Gabriel

[Bob Eager]

On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 13:26:49 UTC, "The Medway Handyman"
<davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> Blueyonder wrote:
> >
> > Any suggestions?
>
> Buy a new toaster.

It's a Dualit - that's 135 quid if it's the 4 gang version. New elements
from Dualit are cheaper though...

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

[Jason]

"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:tcvXf.46040$wl.3...@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

> Blueyonder wrote:
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> -- JJ
>
> Buy a new toaster.

Do you buy a new car when your ashtray is full?

-- JJ

[Jason]

<meow...@care2.com> wrote in message
news:1143857326.1...@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

>> >
>> > I have a Dualit toaster, that is no longer toasting evenly. The
>> > elements
>> > are covered with transparent panels, as clear as glass, but look like
>> > they
>> > could be mica (the edges are slightly flaky). The mica panels are
>> > covered
>> > in white, crusty spots (probably cheese and butter splashes).
>> >
>> > So - what can I use to clean these deposits? The panels are very clear,
>> > and I don't want to use anything that will abrade the surfaces. A dry
>> > toothbrush alone does not get the deposits off, and I am a bit wary of
>> > using water or soap.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions?
>>
>> I'd like to know that too!
>>
>> Also, what gauge of wire to use to replace the elements.
>>
>> Mary
>
> The only effective way to clean the mica is to wet wash them. Its not
> usually needed though. Mica should be treated as semi fragile. For the
> sake of anyone thinking of self darwinating, yes you need to give it a
> full week to dry out properly afterwards.

Very mild soap and water seemed to work okay. I used a small bit of cloth
wrapped around a stick to get right inside, and it removed a lot of dirt
(very slow though). The mica looks as good as new now, but I'm going to let
it dry for a few days before plugging it in.

-- JJ

[RSK]

Is there someone who can replace the mica in a vintage toaster if it's flaking/cracked, etc.? Is it even worth having it replaced? Is it still okay to use as is?

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/cleaning-mica-panels-in-a-toaster-348715-.htm

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

I don't know how old the thread is, but myself, I'd not particularly want to
chance eating slivers of Mica on my toast. If its otherwise in good
condition and is elderly, then maybe a company looking for props for a tv
or film set might be interested in it or even a museum.

Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"RSK" <05440b8161ac12fd...@example.com> wrote in message
news:168b43dbfd2d5bca$1$2332955$4036...@news.newsgroupdirect.com...

[Max Demian]

On 24/06/2021 07:26, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:

> I don't know how old the thread is, but myself, I'd not particularly want to
> chance eating slivers of Mica on my toast. If its otherwise in good
> condition and is elderly, then maybe a company looking for props for a tv
> or film set might be interested in it or even a museum.

Why would you want to encase the elements in mica? I mean, no-one's
going to be daft enough to try to extract stuck toast with a metal knife
without making sure the power's off.

--
Max Demian

[charles]

In article <8cudnTUDO_7u-En9...@brightview.co.uk>, Max Demian

Really?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

[Tim+]

RSK <05440b8161ac12fd...@example.com> wrote:
> Is there someone who can replace the mica in a vintage toaster if it's
> flaking/cracked, etc.? Is it even worth having it replaced? Is it still okay to use as is?

Other than the look of it, is the flaking causing any issues? Seems to me
changing it would be fiddly. You can buy sheets of mica on eBay if you want
to have a go.

You could always by another vintage toaster there too. ;-)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274839853652

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

[Andrew]

I use a teabag squeezer to extract stuck crumpets from the
toaster (after it has tried to eject them and failed, but
cut the power).

[Nick Cat]

On Wednesday, 23 June 2021 at 17:45:05 UTC+1, RSK wrote:
> Is there someone who can replace the mica in a vintage toaster if it's flaking/cracked, etc.?

sure

> Is it even worth having it replaced?

how would we know what its value is?

> Is it still okay to use as is?

we haven't even seen it.

[Stephen Licence]

> Also, what gauge of wire to use to replace the elements.
> Mary
> >
> > -- JJ
> >
> >

Dualit elements are easily obtainable from catering equipment suppliers, and not particularly expensive. Originally, the elements had no mica (or whatever it is) protection, but when the elements broke, they usually ended up touching the frame and causing a blown fuse or other protective device operation. This is OK in the home, but in a restaurant can be a disaster, as probably four or five other pieces of equipment are on the same circuit. Unfortunately, the mica reduces the heat output of the element, so if the mica element is mixed with naked elements, a slice of bread between dissimilar elements will be rare to very rare on the mica side when the naked side is done.

[Nick Cat]

What are you saying the element wires were supported on before mica?
The original dualits I fixed were all mica sheet based elements.