Is the failure mode shut?
To anyone familiar with old Austin/Morris cars this works on the same
principal as the capillary temperature sender and gauges.
An oddity is that the valve is fitted in the kitchen alongside the AGA when
the spec seems to indicate the valve should be oustside the building.
AJH
> By a process of elimination and after cleaning the oil galleries in the
> burner I have a clear fuel delivery to the valve but none from it.
Full of crud? That's what stopped oil flow through ours last winter.
> An oddity is that the valve is fitted in the kitchen alongside the AGA
> when the spec seems to indicate the valve should be oustside the
> building.
It should be with the sensor inside but an awful lot are fitted
inside as that is easier.
--
Cheers
Dave.
?????
Include the sentence that I'm responding to and I think it becomes
clear.
>> An oddity is that the valve is fitted in the kitchen alongside the
AGA
>> when the spec seems to indicate the valve should be oustside the
>> building.
>
> It should be with the sensor inside but an awful lot are fitted
> inside as that is easier.
I'm agreeing that "it", the fire valve, should be outside but that
the sensor should be inside but that an awful lot (meaning the
subject of the sentance, "it", the fire valve) are fitted inside as
that is easier.
--
Cheers
Dave.
>Is anyone familar with the Teddington KBB fire valve fitted to AGA oil fire
>cookers. I have just returned from the country pile of a friend. Symptom
>was gradually dwindling fuel delivery until the flame went out. By a
>process of elimination and after cleaning the oil galleries in the burner I
>have a clear fuel delivery to the valve but none from it. The reset button
>is pushed home.
>
>Is the failure mode shut?
Should be, yes.
>To anyone familiar with old Austin/Morris cars this works on the same
>principal as the capillary temperature sender and gauges.
>
>An oddity is that the valve is fitted in the kitchen alongside the AGA when
>the spec seems to indicate the valve should be oustside the building.
Regs dictate so, but before the regs lots of them were fitted indoors.
> On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:09:57 +0000, andrew wrote:
>
>> By a process of elimination and after cleaning the oil galleries in the
>> burner I have a clear fuel delivery to the valve but none from it.
>
> Full of crud? That's what stopped oil flow through ours last winter.
In fact it was clean. The problem was that I think it must have been hit by
a hoover, such that it didn't reset properly. This was no problem when
everything was ok but when the boiler went out it was manually triggered to
check it and, because it is an over centre type device, not pushed home
enough to reset it.
Having figured out that and with an unused expensive replacement I re lit
the device but the fuel flow is weak and it doesn't seem to react to the
thermostat and barely stays alight. The AGA service engineer is booked to
visit in the new year.
AJH
Since there are other makes of capillary firestop valve which get
called KBB similarly to Hoover being a vacuum cleaner I assume yours
really is a KBB. In which case the button may need pressing quite
firmly. The oil port is small so you may have dirt or grit clogging
the valve. Also are you sure the oil cut-off in the float control box
has not tripped off and is the true cause of the restriction.
Similarly what about the oil line filter at the tank or in the float
control?
I have also spent cold miserable hours trying to unfreeze ice pugs in
oil lines during freezing weather. Does your oil pipe "dip" anywhere
subject to frost en route from tank to burner?
(If it is not a KBB at least one competitor requires the "button" to
be pulled out to set open)
>
> To anyone familiar with old Austin/Morris cars this works on the same
> principal as the capillary temperature sender and gauges.
>
> An oddity is that the valve is fitted in the kitchen alongside the AGA when
> the spec seems to indicate the valve should be oustside the building.
IF installed to modern OFTEC standards it should but if the oil pipe
comes out of a concrete floor indoors the indoor mounting would be
acceptable. FWIW very long capillaries (10 metres) are available.
>
> AJH
> Since there are other makes of capillary firestop valve which get
> called KBB similarly to Hoover being a vacuum cleaner I assume yours
> really is a KBB. In which case the button may need pressing quite
> firmly.
Yes it is a genuine Teddington KBB and yes something had prevented it from
being pressed to click.
> The oil port is small so you may have dirt or grit clogging
> the valve. Also are you sure the oil cut-off in the float control box
> has not tripped off and is the true cause of the restriction.
Please explain this last. The oil control box has two controls, one overides
the thermostat by holding open the arm which holds a valve shut when warm,
this is on top left as you view the box, the other is the fuel control
which is reset by pressing it down for oil flow??
> Similarly what about the oil line filter at the tank or in the float
> control?
Tank filter is spotless and I wasn't aware there was one in the oil control.
> I have also spent cold miserable hours trying to unfreeze ice pugs in
> oil lines during freezing weather. Does your oil pipe "dip" anywhere
> subject to frost en route from tank to burner?
It does but it is flowing freely from the tank and there was no sign of
water in the tank outlet filter.
AJH
The fuel control with the reset level will trip sometimes if the BM
float box is knocked or the oil level surges above the trip level
within the box. There is also a fusible trip device which can only be
seen by removing the top plate which has the printing on it. This
device is simply a small cube of low temperature melt metal and is
there as final defence if the unit catches fire.
>
> > Similarly what about the oil line filter at the tank or in the float
> > control?
>
> Tank filter is spotless and I wasn't aware there was one in the oil control.
Depending on the age of the control it may be behind a screw cap/plug
at front bottom or later models had an oval plate with two retaining
screws. There is a fine mesh filter tube behind this. Don't damage the
ruber joint when accessing it.
>
> > I have also spent cold miserable hours trying to unfreeze ice plugs in
> > oil lines during freezing weather. Does your oil pipe "dip" anywhere
> > subject to frost en route from tank to burner?
>
> It does but it is flowing freely from the tank and there was no sign of
> water in the tank outlet filter.
>
We can discount this then if oil flows freely from the pipe end into a
temporary receptacle placed just before the KBB
> AJH
> Depending on the age of the control it may be behind a screw cap/plug
> at front bottom or later models had an oval plate with two retaining
> screws. There is a fine mesh filter tube behind this. Don't damage the
> ruber joint when accessing it.
>>
Thanks for that, I'll have a look when I next get up there in the new year.
AJH