Finishing a plasterboard external edge.

[chris French]

As part of the bathroom refurb, I'm putting up a false studwork wall
around a chimney breast - the chimney breast curves in on the top 1/3
and it needs to be flat for the shower to go against.

A lot will be tiled, but I will be left with an external corner
plasterboard edge. What is the best way to finish this? I don't want to
bother getting it skimmed (as I have done before when plasterboarding)
as I doubt it's really cost effective for the small area we are talking
about. And the corner is not in a very vulnerable area of the room.


--
Chris French

[fred]

In article <$eTlJIAD...@blackhole.familyfrench.co.uk>, chris French
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> writes

A corner bead is really the only proper way, it is resilient and
provides a straight edge. You get them for PB applications in plastic or
metal and you just will in behind them with filler of board finish. Even
B&Q do them but there you will have to dig for a straight one.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

[John Rumm]

A thin plastic corner bead, will do the trick. You will need to use bard
fill or multifinish plaster to feather the edge away and into the flat
of the wall.

--
Cheers,

John.

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[Tricky Dicky]

If the plasterboard is to be tiled British Gypsum recommend that a stronger bond will be achieved if the tiles are glued directly onto the PB rather than plaster skimmed board. If that is the course you take use dry-lining corner tape which is a paper reinforcement that has two thin metal strips in-bedded, this can be used on both internal and external corners. Simply attach with dry-lining joint filler then cover with further filler feathering the filler away from the corner. The thinness of the tape means you do not need to build up any real thickness of filler. Any unevenness in the filler is very easily sanded away.

Richard

[chris French]

In message <12ad4b99-07f9-4cae...@googlegroups.com>,
Tricky Dicky <tricky...@sky.com> writes

>If the plasterboard is to be tiled British Gypsum recommend that a
>stronger bond will be achieved if the tiles are glued directly onto the
>PB rather than plaster skimmed board.

Well, some si being tiled, some not. it's not being skimmed anyway, as
there isn't enough of it to bother with getting someone in.

> If that is the course you take use dry-lining corner tape which is a
>paper reinforcement that has two thin metal strips in-bedded, this can
>be used on both internal and external corners.

I'm wondering how strong the edge is though compared to using a thin
edge bead as suggested by John and fred (which at the moment seems the
way to go. . Less work at first, as probably a lot less sanding to get
it feathered in, but more work if I have to redo it sooner.

--
Chris French

[meow...@care2.com]

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 10:36:29 PM UTC+1, chris French wrote:
> In message <12ad4b99-07f9-4cae...@googlegroups.com>,

> Tricky Dicky <@sky.com> writes

> >If the plasterboard is to be tiled British Gypsum recommend that a
> >stronger bond will be achieved if the tiles are glued directly onto the
> >PB rather than plaster skimmed board.

> Well, some si being tiled, some not. it's not being skimmed anyway, as
> there isn't enough of it to bother with getting someone in.

> > If that is the course you take use dry-lining corner tape which is a
> >paper reinforcement that has two thin metal strips in-bedded, this can
> >be used on both internal and external corners.

> I'm wondering how strong the edge is though compared to using a thin
> edge bead as suggested by John and fred (which at the moment seems the

Its not, if its anything like the plasterboard tapes I've used. A corner bead will give you strength. The upside of beadless plaster outer corners is that its dead easy to fix any dings.


NT

[GMM]

On 16/10/2013 09:44, chris French wrote:
>

One way, depending entirely on the layout etc, might be to form the
corner from two tapered edges of plasterboard and incorporate a corner
bead. Then it can be filled to the bead rather than having a bump from
tape etc that has to be feathered out. It's still feathered of course,
but the feathering is under the filler and you're making a flat surface.

[fred]

In article <Jq0o0dGd...@blackhole.familyfrench.co.uk>, chris French
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> writes

>In message <12ad4b99-07f9-4cae...@googlegroups.com>,
>Tricky Dicky <tricky...@sky.com> writes
>

>> If that is the course you take use dry-lining corner tape which is a
>>paper reinforcement that has two thin metal strips in-bedded, this can
>>be used on both internal and external corners.
>
>I'm wondering how strong the edge is though compared to using a thin
>edge bead as suggested by John and fred (which at the moment seems the
>way to go. . Less work at first, as probably a lot less sanding to get
>it feathered in, but more work if I have to redo it sooner.
>

Yep, I tried it once and your instincts are correct, I wondered if I was
using it incorrectly but no, it is just junk.