I were changing a landing light fitting t'other day & pulling the downstairs
fuse left it on.
I thought the landing light took its power from the 'downstairs' lights?
Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Don't know, but mine - 10yr old build uses the upstairs circuit.
I'll bet that you had a borrowed neutral on the landing light
Adam
I would suggest - most usual would be on the upstairs circuit.
1. It is an upstairs light.
2. It would be easier to wire if done correctly [1].
3. It will usually be the lightest loaded circuit anyway.
[1] But be aware of neutrals being borrowed from other than the circuit
it is actually fed from.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
"ARWadsworth" <adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:Qkkbn.36893$Ym4....@text.news.virginmedia.com...
Is that some sort of insider joke?
Why would borrowing a neutral have any effect or are you suggesting that
handymen don't put the switches in the correct place?
It is not a joke. Touch a borrowed neutral. It bites.
> Why would borrowing a neutral have any effect or are you suggesting that
> handymen don't put the switches in the correct place?
I am suggesting that a handyman may have seen a borrowed neutral that was
installed by a bad electrician. It is not a joke, insider or otherwise.
Adam
Yes, but in my house, the hall and landing lights both have 2-way
switching - with one 2-gang switch in the hall and another on the landing.
Both lights are fed from the downstairs circuit. If the hall were fed from
downstairs and the landing from upstairs, you'd have to turn off *both*
breakers in order to isolate the switches - so that *surely* can't be good
practice?
--
Cheers,
Roger
_______
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.
TMH,
If you don't know what you are doing, then why are you playing with such
things in a "professional" capacity?
Did you check to see if the power was off before you started playing with
the wires? If you didn't, then that was two 'cardinal sins' committed:
1 You lack the qualifications to carry out such work in any capacity
(amateur [as a handyman] or professional).
2 You lack knowledge of the required safety procedures to carry out
such work.
Perhaps now that you are a handyman running a business, then perhaps the HSE
ought to be informed about your lack of safety procedures (both for yourself
and your customers safety) and asked to visit you at your registered
business address [1] to make you aware of them before an accident (or
incident) occurs.
Note: that this really isn't a personal attack or wind-up ( I can't be
bothered tonight) but simply an observation from the comments and questions
that you post on this group - many of those really do raise serious doubts
as to your capabilities for *SAFELY* doing some of the work you do as a
"professional" Handyman.
Remember that if a person is injured or killed by your incompetence in doing
a job, then it's you (as a sole trader) who carries the can - along with
possibly serving a stretch at 'Her Majesty's Pleasure' and for paying any
awarded compensation.
As I said, this is a valid observation, but I am expecting your normal
vitriolic reply to such comments - along with your favourite acronym -- FOAD
(but before you use that one, reflect on my last paragraph) -- so thinking
of *YOUR* safety by preventing an incidence of Repetitive Strain Injury -
DON'T bother to reply if that's the response.
1 If you have one that is. If not, then your home address.
> Most houses have the hall & landing lights two way switched, and have
> 'upstairs lights' and 'downstairs lights' breakers/fuses.
>
> I were changing a landing light fitting t'other day & pulling the
> downstairs fuse left it on.
>
> I thought the landing light took its power from the 'downstairs' lights?
>
> Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
================================================
I raised exactly the same subject some months ago and Mr.Wadsworth and
several other respondents described the arrangement as a 'borrowed
neutral', and they unanimously agreed that it's fairly common despite
being bad practice.
This diagram which I posted at the time shows the arrangement:
http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x223/coldpics/?action=view¤t=suspect-wiring.jpg
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
> Most houses have the hall & landing lights two way switched, and have
> 'upstairs lights' and 'downstairs lights' breakers/fuses.
>
> I were changing a landing light fitting t'other day & pulling the downstairs
> fuse left it on.
>
> I thought the landing light took its power from the 'downstairs' lights?
>
> Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
Our are on the upstairs circuit and this has proved very useful - in the
early hours of one morning we walked in and turned the hall light on, a
bulb blew and tripped the breaker, but of course the other downstairs
lights were on their own breaker and so by opening the kitchen door, we
could get enough light to see the alarm keypad to disarm it before we woke
half the street!
SteveW
Exactly my thoughts Roger.
> On 6 Feb,
> "The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Most houses have the hall & landing lights two way switched, and have
>> 'upstairs lights' and 'downstairs lights' breakers/fuses.
>>
>> I were changing a landing light fitting t'other day & pulling the
>> downstairs fuse left it on.
>>
>> I thought the landing light took its power from the 'downstairs' lights?
>>
>> Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
>>
> There doesn't. BEWARE! One recent installation I was checking had the
> hall/landing lights fed from both upstairs and downstairs circuits, depending
> on which way the 2 way switches were set, due to a mistake in the wiring.
>
> Personally, I'd prefer them both fed from the same circuit, preferably the
> downstairs* circuit, to prevent this problem.
>
> A problem I had with the installation in this house was skimping on the
> neutral, connecting the landing light to the downstairs live and the upstairs
> neutral, found out the hard way!
>
> * Marginally safer in allowing lights on the stairs to get down if the
> upstairs lights fail. (If downstairs lights fail an upstairs light will
> usually light the stairs with a door left open.)
On the other hand some houses don't actually have a downstairs light,
relying only on an upstairs one (particularly where there's an open
staircase in the living room). If there were to be a convention, it would
therefore make sense for the landing/hall lights to be on the upstairs
circuit.
SteveW
Oh dear, its the fuckwit again. Don't you have a life? Are you Unbeliever
tonight? Or Tanner OP? Or Squared?
> Did you check to see if the power was off before you started playing
> with the wires? If you didn't, then that was two 'cardinal sins'
> committed:
Of course I didn't check shit for brains, I regularly try to electrocute
myself. I only bought the volt stick & DMM because I like the pretty red
lights.
> 1 You lack the qualifications to carry out such work in any
> capacity (amateur [as a handyman] or professional).
No I don't idiot boy. I can carry out any like for like replacement, but
you are clearly too fucking stupid to understand that. Refer to Part P of
the Buiding Regs, but take it slowly, it contains long words you won't
understand.
> 2 You lack knowledge of the required safety procedures to carry
> out such work.
Of course I do. I look forward to electrocution on a daily basis.
> Perhaps now that you are a handyman running a business, then perhaps
> the HSE ought to be informed about your lack of safety procedures
> (both for yourself and your customers safety) and asked to visit you
> at your registered business address [1] to make you aware of them
> before an accident (or incident) occurs.
Thats your problem isn't it fuckwit. You always wanted to start a business,
but were a complete wanker who couldn't cut the mustard. More likely your
wife wouldn't let you. Promotion to 'foreman' was your only achievement.
This has left you so bitter & twisted you attack anyone who has succeeded.
> Note: that this really isn't a personal attack or wind-up ( I can't be
> bothered tonight) but simply an observation from the comments and
> questions that you post on this group - many of those really do raise
> serious doubts as to your capabilities for *SAFELY* doing some of the
> work you do as a "professional" Handyman.
Oh it isn't a personal attack? Then what is it? A constructive comment? A
helpful reply?
Its a personal attack from a bitter twisted wanker who failed to achieve
anything.
> Remember that if a person is injured or killed by your incompetence
> in doing a job, then it's you (as a sole trader) who carries the can
> - along with possibly serving a stretch at 'Her Majesty's Pleasure'
> and for paying any awarded compensation.
Just as well I'm a competant person who only does like for like
replacements, which fall outside of Part P of the Building Regs, and that I
carry �2 million public liability insurance, and have the approval of
Trading Standards.
> As I said, this is a valid observation, but I am expecting your normal
> vitriolic reply to such comments - along with your favourite acronym
> -- FOAD (but before you use that one, reflect on my last paragraph)
> -- so thinking of *YOUR* safety by preventing an incidence of
> Repetitive Strain Injury - DON'T bother to reply if that's the
> response.
Its not a valid observation you sad little wanker, its a personal attack to
make you feel better about being an absolute failure in life.
The only Repetitive Strain Injury is you wanking youself silly.
> 1 If you have one that is. If not, then your home address.
All on the website fuckwit, 100% in accordance with the requirement of
Trading Standards.
Anything else to say? Bring it on so I can rip the piss out of you again.
Tosser.
Handymen don't 'put' switches anywhere. They replace like for like.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
"Cicero" <shel...@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.02.06...@hellfire.co.uk...
> On Sat, 06 Feb 2010 20:15:56 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
>> Most houses have the hall & landing lights two way switched, and have
>> 'upstairs lights' and 'downstairs lights' breakers/fuses.
>>
>> I were changing a landing light fitting t'other day & pulling the
>> downstairs fuse left it on.
>>
>> I thought the landing light took its power from the 'downstairs' lights?
>>
>> Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
>
> ================================================
>
> I raised exactly the same subject some months ago and Mr.Wadsworth and
> several other respondents described the arrangement as a 'borrowed
> neutral', and they unanimously agreed that it's fairly common despite
> being bad practice.
>
> This diagram which I posted at the time shows the arrangement:
>
> http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x223/coldpics/?action=view¤t=suspect-wiring.jpg
How is that a borrowed neutral?
Only one neutral is connected, its the two lives that's the problem.
Using proper three core and earth makes the whole thing somewhat easier.
Hmm? TMH, was it the smidgeon of smoked eel on the hook or the wriggling
shrimp? You took that one hook, line and sinker I think.
For what it is worth, the poster epitomises the Elfin Safety prats that
should be first aboard Douglas Adams' spaceship.
>On 6 Feb,
> "The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Most houses have the hall & landing lights two way switched, and have
>> 'upstairs lights' and 'downstairs lights' breakers/fuses.
>>
>> I were changing a landing light fitting t'other day & pulling the
>> downstairs fuse left it on.
>>
>> I thought the landing light took its power from the 'downstairs' lights?
>>
>> Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
>>
>There doesn't. BEWARE! One recent installation I was checking had the
>hall/landing lights fed from both upstairs and downstairs circuits, depending
>on which way the 2 way switches were set, due to a mistake in the wiring.
>
>Personally, I'd prefer them both fed from the same circuit, preferably the
>downstairs* circuit, to prevent this problem.
Possibly the best solution would be to have a completely separate
circuit (clearly labelled at the CU) for the hall/landing lights, in
view of the safety aspect of lighting a staircase.
Be careful though - some landing/hall switches also serve to do
vestibule ('lobby') lighting (typically in older townhouses), and it's
not a very good idea to have a, say, triple-gang, switch fed from more
than one fuse/MCB, in a domestic scenario.
>
>A problem I had with the installation in this house was skimping on the
>neutral, connecting the landing light to the downstairs live and the upstairs
>neutral, found out the hard way!
I was involved with a small theatre a while ago. In the 'studio'
there were fluorescent 'working' lights and a couple of tracks with
R80 type spots (as well as the usual lighting bar/dimmerpack stuff).
The fluoros and the spots were fed from separate fuses in a Wylex
2-way switch-fuse.
I was replacing the fluoros (for twin luminaires) using the spots for
working light; I disconnected the (conduited) wiring from one of the
fluoros and the place fell into total darkness - the neutral had been
shared between both sets of lighting. Fortunately I had a Dragonlight
and a headlight handy, and had been following the good practice of
keeping fingers clear of screwdriver blades whilst 'dissing' (or
connecting) wires.
All this carry-on for the sake of saving a few feet (probably less
than 20') of black 3/0.029 wire...
>
>* Marginally safer in allowing lights on the stairs to get down if the
>upstairs lights fail. (If downstairs lights fail an upstairs light will
>usually light the stairs with a door left open.)
Indeed.
--
Frank Erskine
>TMH,
>
>If you don't know what you are doing, then why are you playing with such
>things in a "professional" capacity?
Snip shite.
Why don't you fuck off back to the log you live under?
I would say its fairly standard practice actually these days. Most
electricians would be aware of the possibility that the hall and landing
switches may contain live wires energised from the other circuit.
(I have wired said arrangement myself in the past)
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
You swine, Sir! I've now got a vin rouge haze upon the screen in front of
me. However, well said.
> TMH,
>
> If you don't know what you are doing, then why are you playing with such
> things in a "professional" capacity?
The question seemed perfectly reasonable since there are a variety of
ways - some more common than others - used for these two way switching
arrangements.
> Did you check to see if the power was off before you started playing with
> the wires? If you didn't, then that was two 'cardinal sins' committed:
I would have thought from the nature of the question that would have
been obvious.
> 1 You lack the qualifications to carry out such work in any capacity
> (amateur [as a handyman] or professional).
Moot point since no qualifications are required to replace a light fitting.
> 2 You lack knowledge of the required safety procedures to carry out
> such work.
You seem to be jumping to conclusions here.
You also need to learn that asking questions is not a sign of inadequacy
or weakness.
> Perhaps now that you are a handyman running a business, then perhaps the HSE
> ought to be informed about your lack of safety procedures (both for yourself
> and your customers safety) and asked to visit you at your registered
> business address [1] to make you aware of them before an accident (or
> incident) occurs.
You really are becoming a tiresome troll.
> Note: that this really isn't a personal attack or wind-up ( I can't be
Really, that would make a change then.
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:DL2dnR4nrMavmfPW...@brightview.co.uk...
> Unbeliever wrote:
>
>> TMH,
>>
>> If you don't know what you are doing, then why are you playing with such
>> things in a "professional" capacity?
>
> The question seemed perfectly reasonable since there are a variety of
> ways - some more common than others - used for these two way switching
> arrangements.
The real question is, having found such a wiring case can he fix it legally?
Its not legal to leave it in a dangerous condition and it would appear to be
in a dangerous condition.
Even if its not dangerous to the occupier its still not legal to leave it if
its dangerous to for example, another handyman.
Of course...
> Its not legal to leave it in a dangerous condition and it would appear
> to be in a dangerous condition.
Not really - even wiring to the 17th edition using the "standard"
arrangement with 3&E run between floors to facilitate the "other" two
way switch, you will still have a switch position containing live wires
from two separate circuits.
> Even if its not dangerous to the occupier its still not legal to leave
> it if its dangerous to for example, another handyman.
If it were truly dangerous, then yes one would either have to refuse to
do the work, or only agree if one were also allowed to rectify the cause
of the danger (or find an alternative workaround). However this is not
necessarily one of those situations. If working on a switch that is
known to switch lamps notionally covered by two different circuits, then
its a fair assumption that you may need to isolate both circuits to make
it safe to work on.
Cases with borrowed neutrals are certainly examples of poor practice -
but again its fairly common poor practice!
>> I raised exactly the same subject some months ago and Mr.Wadsworth and
>> several other respondents described the arrangement as a 'borrowed
>> neutral', and they unanimously agreed that it's fairly common despite
>> being bad practice.
>>
>> This diagram which I posted at the time shows the arrangement:
>>
>> http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x223/coldpics/?action=view¤t=suspect-wiring.jpg
>>
>
> How is that a borrowed neutral?
Both lights are powered from the downstairs circuit, however when
powering the upstairs light, the neutral used belongs to a different
circuit.
> Only one neutral is connected, its the two lives that's the problem.
No, two neutrals are connected, and only one live.
> Using proper three core and earth makes the whole thing somewhat easier.
It usually does... however, even then there are some interesting variations!
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:I9mdnWD-gtBqlfPW...@brightview.co.uk...
> dennis@home wrote:
>>
>>
>> "John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
>> news:DL2dnR4nrMavmfPW...@brightview.co.uk...
>>> Unbeliever wrote:
>>>
>>>> TMH,
>>>>
>>>> If you don't know what you are doing, then why are you playing with
>>>> such things in a "professional" capacity?
>>>
>>> The question seemed perfectly reasonable since there are a variety of
>>> ways - some more common than others - used for these two way switching
>>> arrangements.
>>
>> The real question is, having found such a wiring case can he fix it
>> legally?
>
> Of course...
>
>> Its not legal to leave it in a dangerous condition and it would appear to
>> be in a dangerous condition.
>
> Not really - even wiring to the 17th edition using the "standard"
> arrangement with 3&E run between floors to facilitate the "other" two way
> switch, you will still have a switch position containing live wires from
> two separate circuits.
Why?
You have live running to the top switch, two switched lives from the top
switch to the bottom switch and one switched live running back to the
fitting, only one live circuit is needed and no neutrals run down the cable
at all. Operating the switches will either turn the light on and off if the
wrong circuit is isolated or do nothing.
>
>> Even if its not dangerous to the occupier its still not legal to leave it
>> if its dangerous to for example, another handyman.
>
> If it were truly dangerous, then yes one would either have to refuse to do
> the work, or only agree if one were also allowed to rectify the cause of
> the danger (or find an alternative workaround). However this is not
> necessarily one of those situations. If working on a switch that is known
> to switch lamps notionally covered by two different circuits, then its a
> fair assumption that you may need to isolate both circuits to make it safe
> to work on.
>
> Cases with borrowed neutrals are certainly examples of poor practice - but
> again its fairly common poor practice!
Well they are done by electricians and they aren't all the brightest of
people. ;-)
Replying to TMH btw Clot
>>> If you don't know what you are doing, then why are you playing with
>>> such things in a "professional" capacity?
>>
>> Oh dear, its the fuckwit again. Don't you have a life? Are you
>> Unbeliever tonight? Or Tanner OP? Or Squared?
Unbeliever for sure - Tanner Op was an old dance hall - and Squared was
well... squared - and you are full of paranoia about one or two posting
here - nope, I definitely an Unbeliever!!
>>> Did you check to see if the power was off before you started playing
>>> with the wires? If you didn't, then that was two 'cardinal sins'
>>> committed:
>>
>> Of course I didn't check shit for brains, I regularly try to
>> electrocute myself. I only bought the volt stick & DMM because I
>> like the pretty red lights.
Yep, you like pretty "lights" don't you TMH, especially when you can't
understand how they work! And when are you going to "offer for sale" here
your "volt stick & DMM" as 'surplus stock'?
>>> 1 You lack the qualifications to carry out such work in any
>>> capacity (amateur [as a handyman] or professional).
>>
>> No I don't idiot boy. I can carry out any like for like replacement,
>> but you are clearly too fucking stupid to understand that. Refer to
>> Part P of the Buiding Regs, but take it slowly, it contains long
>> words you won't understand.
I suspect that you are NOT qualified for the job - and you really do seem
incapable on occasions!
>>> 2 You lack knowledge of the required safety procedures to
>>> carry out such work.
>>
>> Of course I do. I look forward to electrocution on a daily basis.
A "bright spark" I see then - but a rather dim light most of the time!
>>> Perhaps now that you are a handyman running a business, then perhaps
>>> the HSE ought to be informed about your lack of safety procedures
>>> (both for yourself and your customers safety) and asked to visit you
>>> at your registered business address [1] to make you aware of them
>>> before an accident (or incident) occurs.
>>
>> Thats your problem isn't it fuckwit. You always wanted to start a
>> business, but were a complete wanker who couldn't cut the mustard.
>> More likely your wife wouldn't let you. Promotion to 'foreman' was
>> your only achievement. This has left you so bitter & twisted you
>> attack anyone who has succeeded.
Never wanted the hassle of running a business or being ' t'boss ' - as for
"cutting the mustard", can't stand the stuff, as for being "bitter and
twisted" - well I must admit, it would be impossible to match you on that!
>>> Note: that this really isn't a personal attack or wind-up ( I can't
>>> be bothered tonight) but simply an observation from the comments and
>>> questions that you post on this group - many of those really do
>>> raise serious doubts as to your capabilities for *SAFELY* doing
>>> some of the work you do as a "professional" Handyman.
>>
>> Oh it isn't a personal attack? Then what is it? A constructive
>> comment? A helpful reply?
Just as it said - but you cannot stand anyone criticising you - in other
words, you like to give it, but certainly can't take it!
>> Its a personal attack from a bitter twisted wanker who failed to
>> achieve anything.
Achievements, I have many - but I don't brag about them here! Failed in
what? But yes, I have 'failed' (who hasn't) in some things - but unlike you,
I put them down to experience and learned from them
>>> Remember that if a person is injured or killed by your incompetence
>>> in doing a job, then it's you (as a sole trader) who carries the can
>>> - along with possibly serving a stretch at 'Her Majesty's Pleasure'
>>> and for paying any awarded compensation.
>>
>> Just as well I'm a competant person who only does like for like
>> replacements, which fall outside of Part P of the Building Regs, and
>> that I carry �2 million public liability insurance, and have the
>> approval of Trading Standards.
Please describe what a "competent person" and what is the difference between
that and a "qualified person".
Does that insurance cover you for incompetence, and if you are relying on
that if things go wrong, well....that speaks volumes about you.
And are Trading Standards the same as the HSE? Try asking Trading Standards
to sort out a risky scaffolding etc - and see what they say! Conversely,
try reporting to the HSE the fact that a store is trying to con you out of
your rights to return faulty goods - they will be most polite in telling you
where to stick that complaint. ;-)
>>> As I said, this is a valid observation, but I am expecting your
>>> normal vitriolic reply to such comments - along with your favourite
>>> acronym -- FOAD (but before you use that one, reflect on my last
>>> paragraph)
>>> -- so thinking of *YOUR* safety by preventing an incidence of
>>> Repetitive Strain Injury - DON'T bother to reply if that's the
>>> response.
>>
>> Its not a valid observation you sad little wanker, its a personal
>> attack to make you feel better about being an absolute failure in
>> life.
Are you a qualified electrician, are you a qulified trademan of any sort?
As for failure, that is a relative word, I suspect that you have failed in
many things - but your ego won't let you admit it!
>> The only Repetitive Strain Injury is you wanking youself silly.
Ah, another tosspot talking - but I suppose you spend too much time here
bragging about you exploits, asking for information (that you really should
know about as a pseudo- pro) and slagging-off the odd client or two - with
no time left for a bit of hand-relief on yourself - your life must be
awfully drab and soulless?
>>> 1 If you have one that is. If not, then your home address.
>>
>> All on the website fuckwit, 100% in accordance with the requirement
>> of Trading Standards.
Trading Standards is sod-all to to do with HSE - try looking it up.
>> Anything else to say? Bring it on so I can rip the piss out of you
>> again.
"Rip the piss out of..." - now that shows the level of your expertise! How
the hell can you rip a liquid out of something???? Bejusus and you reckon
that as a handyman, you're a pro? I think not!
--------------------
> Hmm? TMH, was it the smidgeon of smoked eel on the hook or the
> wriggling shrimp? You took that one hook, line and sinker I think.
Now replying to Clot
Not really Clot, but it elicited the reply that I expected - all great fun!
> For what it is worth, the poster epitomises the Elfin Safety prats
> that should be first aboard Douglas Adams' spaceship.
No I am not one of those "Elfin Safety prats".
Health and Safety interpretations really have gone too far in many instances
in this country - and that is down to the litigious culture being cultivated
by many who must blame anybody but themselves when things go wrong.
But I do believe that it has a part to play in the workplace, there are too
many killed in all industries for it not have that place - and TMH, as a
Sole Trader, should know that.
>> Not really - even wiring to the 17th edition using the "standard"
>> arrangement with 3&E run between floors to facilitate the "other" two
>> way switch, you will still have a switch position containing live
>> wires from two separate circuits.
>
> Why?
> You have live running to the top switch, two switched lives from the top
> switch to the bottom switch and one switched live running back to the
> fitting, only one live circuit is needed and no neutrals run down the
> cable at all. Operating the switches will either turn the light on and
> off if the wrong circuit is isolated or do nothing.
And that means the bottom two gang light switch has lives from the
upstairs and downstairs circuits. (and the upstairs likewise if two way
switching is implemented in both directions).
>>> Even if its not dangerous to the occupier its still not legal to
>>> leave it if its dangerous to for example, another handyman.
>>
>> If it were truly dangerous, then yes one would either have to refuse
>> to do the work, or only agree if one were also allowed to rectify the
>> cause of the danger (or find an alternative workaround). However this
>> is not necessarily one of those situations. If working on a switch
>> that is known to switch lamps notionally covered by two different
>> circuits, then its a fair assumption that you may need to isolate both
>> circuits to make it safe to work on.
>>
>> Cases with borrowed neutrals are certainly examples of poor practice -
>> but again its fairly common poor practice!
>
> Well they are done by electricians and they aren't all the brightest of
> people. ;-)
Well while statistics and experience would support this view, there are
also some fairly smart ones about.
That is the classic case of a borrowed neutral.
The landing light takes it's live from the downstairs fuse/MCB and it's
neutral from the upstairs circuit.
I do take your point about the lives being the problem, but in the trade it
is called a borrowed neutral.
Adam
It probably ony shows up if and when you add RCD protection to the circuits!
MCBs are single pole devices so don't class as 'isolation' anyway -
you must use the DP main switch.
Owain
Perhaps he cannot legally resolve the problem, so what he should do is
flag up the problem to the owner of the property and let them then
employ someone suitably qualified to resolve it.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
I've never come across that arrangement. It would appear to me to be a
dangerous practice to have an upstairs light on a circuit marked
'downstairs'
> Is there an accepted way of wiring these up of is either acceptable?
I would expect the hall light to be on the downstairs light circuit and
the landing light to be on the upstairs cisuit. That way, if one circuit
fails, you still have light in the stairwell, which is one of the most
dangerous places in a house not to have any light. I also have an
emergency light above the stairs, in case of a total power failure.
Colin Bignell
================================================
My explanation as non pro:
It's true that there's only one neutral connected but it's connected to
the wrong circuit. Looking at the diagram, the neutral return (from the
upstairs light) should have been taken back to the neutral of the
downstairs circuit. As you say, this should have been done using three
core and earth but whoever did the installation obviously didn't have the
correct cable. He could have used an extra single core cable to make the
return to the downstairs circuit but chose to use a much shorter run to
tap into (i.e. 'borrow') the neutral of the upstairs circuit.
It's clear that the name, 'borrowed neutral' is recognised by
professionals in the field and it's equally clear that the arrangement is
widely used despite being frowned upon. The whole situation should serve
as a reminder to us all to check every wire individually before doing any
related work.
As far as the two live wires are concerned they're both off one circuit
(downstairs in the drawing) but they're both switched - only one is live
at any time - so not causing any problem provided that the circuit is
switched off at the CU.
Or when you changing a lightfitting and break the neutral connection:-)
Adam
>> It probably ony shows up if and when you add RCD protection to the
>> circuits!
>
>
>Or when you changing a lightfitting and break the neutral connection:-)
Or when you change a light fitting and get bitten by the floating
neutral. Btdtgtts.
The neutral used for that section of circuit in the diagram supplied by
the downstairs circuit, is the neutral intended for the upstairs
circuit - it is therefore 'borrowed'. I agree that if the live for the
upstairs circuit were used, that there would not be a problem.
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:d7ydnRku448JvPPW...@brightview.co.uk...
> dennis@home wrote:
>
>>> Not really - even wiring to the 17th edition using the "standard"
>>> arrangement with 3&E run between floors to facilitate the "other" two
>>> way switch, you will still have a switch position containing live wires
>>> from two separate circuits.
>>
>> Why?
>> You have live running to the top switch, two switched lives from the top
>> switch to the bottom switch and one switched live running back to the
>> fitting, only one live circuit is needed and no neutrals run down the
>> cable at all. Operating the switches will either turn the light on and
>> off if the wrong circuit is isolated or do nothing.
>
> And that means the bottom two gang light switch has lives from the
> upstairs and downstairs circuits. (and the upstairs likewise if two way
> switching is implemented in both directions).
If its a two gang then the lives can come from any circuit, there isn't a
rule that says otherwise.
I have three lighting circuits covering three floors. All multi way
switched. On the first floor I have three circuits on one plate. If one
circuit should trip, there will be enough spill from another to see your
way out.
Only a fool assumes a circuit is dead without checking before working on
it in a place strange to them. What seems logical to one may not to
another. Another example here is the light inside the cellar door where
the CU is. That isn't on the ground floor circuit for good reason. The CU
is clearly and accurately labelled, though.
--
*Arkansas State Motto: Don't Ask, Don't Tell, Don't Laugh.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
The live must come from the same circuit that the neutral returns two.
This normally means that the light on each storey will connect to the
neutral belonging to the circuit feeding that storey, hence the live
needs to come from there also.
I have drawn an example of double two way switching using the 17th (and
16th for that matter) edition recommended way of wiring two way switches
here:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=2_Way_Switching#Standard_two_way_switching_circuit
No borrowed neutrals (so RCBO safe), feed to each lamp from the adjacent
circuit for the storey, but two circuits live conductors present at
each two gang switch.
=================================================
Does this mean that RCBOs on the two circuits connected by a borrowed
neutral will be ineffective? Would there be any direct danger in putting
RCBOs into such an arrangement?
If so, is removing the borrowed neutral the only remedy?
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:uvSdnWer2POXQ_PW...@brightview.co.uk...
That's how I do them.
"Cicero" <shel...@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.02.07....@hellfire.co.uk...
> Does this mean that RCBOs on the two circuits connected by a borrowed
> neutral will be ineffective? Would there be any direct danger in putting
> RCBOs into such an arrangement?
>
It should result in lots of interruptions in supply as the RCD part trips
(although bad joints, etc. might actually prevent this).
> If so, is removing the borrowed neutral the only remedy?
Yes or the RCD.
"dennis@home" <den...@killspam.kicks-ass.net> wrote in message
news:hkmt11$45e$1...@news.datemas.de...
>
>
> "John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
>> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=2_Way_Switching#Standard_two_way_switching_circuit
>>
>> No borrowed neutrals (so RCBO safe), feed to each lamp from the adjacent
>> circuit for the storey, but two circuits live conductors present at each
>> two gang switch.
>
> That's how I do them.
Except for the error I just noticed.. the top live should be to the common.
You've lost me.
I cannot see an error.
Adam
If there is a RCBO or RCD protecting one circuit that does not also
protect the other, then the moment you turn one of the lights on that
borrows the neutral, you will get a RCD trip on one or possibly both
circuits since you will imbalance the flow and return on both circuits.
> If so, is removing the borrowed neutral the only remedy?
Yup.
So why did you previously say: "If its a two gang then the lives can
come from any circuit, there isn't a rule that says otherwise."?
> Except for the error I just noticed.. the top live should be to the common.
looks fine to me. Same arrangement top and bottom.
================================================
Thanks - understood.
I've just ordered two RCBOs to install into the two lighting circuits.
I'll get around to removing the borrowed neutral first sometime soon with
luck.
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:rMKdnT1T9-u9k_LW...@brightview.co.uk...
> dennis@home wrote:
>>
>>
>> "dennis@home" <den...@killspam.kicks-ass.net> wrote in message
>> news:hkmt11$45e$1...@news.datemas.de...
>>>
>>>
>>> "John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
>>
>>
>>>> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=2_Way_Switching#Standard_two_way_switching_circuit
>>>>
>>>> No borrowed neutrals (so RCBO safe), feed to each lamp from the
>>>> adjacent circuit for the storey, but two circuits live conductors
>>>> present at each two gang switch.
>>>
>>> That's how I do them.
>
> So why did you previously say: "If its a two gang then the lives can come
> from any circuit, there isn't a rule that says otherwise."?
>
>> Except for the error I just noticed.. the top live should be to the
>> common.
>
> looks fine to me. Same arrangement top and bottom.
Having had another look I agree it works.
Its not how I do them after all.
I wire live to common, then connect L1 to L1 and L2 to L2 using two of the
cores and common back to the switched live using the third core.
An intermediate just connects to the pair between the Ls.
Your way saves a joint BTW.
It means that every time the light with the borrowed neutral is turned
on, that it will trip due to the imbalance.
>
> If so, is removing the borrowed neutral the only remedy?
That is the only solution to preventing the tripping, other than
removal of the RCBO's.
That sounds like you would be "exporting" the local live to the other
switch then. If so, how do you get the matching neutral there as well?
> An intermediate just connects to the pair between the Ls.
Yup, that's pretty much the same for most variants.
> Your way saves a joint BTW.
I don't claim invention of it, just what's in the OSG...
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:Ct6dnUPOhpBLtfLW...@brightview.co.uk...
> dennis@home wrote:
>>
>>
>> "John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
>> news:rMKdnT1T9-u9k_LW...@brightview.co.uk...
>>> dennis@home wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dennis@home" <den...@killspam.kicks-ass.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:hkmt11$45e$1...@news.datemas.de...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=2_Way_Switching#Standard_two_way_switching_circuit
>>>>>>
>>>>>> No borrowed neutrals (so RCBO safe), feed to each lamp from the
>>>>>> adjacent circuit for the storey, but two circuits live conductors
>>>>>> present at each two gang switch.
>>>>>
>>>>> That's how I do them.
>>>
>>> So why did you previously say: "If its a two gang then the lives can
>>> come from any circuit, there isn't a rule that says otherwise."?
>>>
>>>> Except for the error I just noticed.. the top live should be to the
>>>> common.
>>>
>>> looks fine to me. Same arrangement top and bottom.
>>
>> Having had another look I agree it works.
>> Its not how I do them after all.
>>
>> I wire live to common, then connect L1 to L1 and L2 to L2 using two of
>> the cores and common back to the switched live using the third core.
>
> That sounds like you would be "exporting" the local live to the other
> switch then. If so, how do you get the matching neutral there as well?
All the switches and cables are in the switched live bit so it uses the same
live and neutral that would be in the rose on a normal switch drop.
perhaps I am having difficulty visualising it. Still never mind, it
sounds like we are describing a subtle variation of the same thing.
Yep - been there, borrowed a neutral many years before, and then
couldn't understand why a particular light would trip the RCD in the
new CU. Took several months of trying various things before memory
kicked in ! It was all the more naughty in that the neutral had been
borrowed from power circuit - logic at the time being that it was the
nearest!!
Rob
At the first lightswitch there is the perm live and switched live from the
fitting. Perm live goes to common and the 3 core is connected to L1 and L2
of the switch with the 3rd core connected to the switched live with a piece
of strip connector.
At the second lightswitch L1 and L2 use the same two cores connected to L1
and L2 of the first lightswitch and the 3rd core goes to common.
You just need a piece of paper and a pen to visualise it
Adam
Ah, it was the bit of chocky block I had not spotted. Yup, can see it
now. Can't see any particular advantage though, can you?
Which is why I don't want to mess with the electrics in our new house in the
slightest!
All switches and sockets are very nice brushed steel finish (or chrome or
whatever the design is called).
No problem with the sockets, but on any of the light switches (some are
dimmers, some are regular switches) you can usually feel a very faint tingle,
the same sort of tingle you get if you touch the metal case of a double
insulated appliance (where the case is connected to 0v DC but not to the
house earth).
Now part of me is wondering if this is because the 1960s/1970s house has two
core twin cable feeding the lighting circuits (ie no earth) and some bright
spark(y) in the past has decided it is a good idea to connect the faceplates
to neutral as there's no earth, so that should there be ever be a fault where
the faceplate could become live, it will blow the protecting fuse.
All it takes is for there to be a borrowed neutral and removing one or the
other of the upstairs or downstairs lighting fuses could mean that the other
switches become live!
I'd get it sorted pronto. All the metal faced switches I've seen say they
*must* be earthed. If your wiring is so old it doesn't have an ECC, either
replace that (best way) or change to plastic switches.
--
*Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana*
Yes, I would say this needs sorting.
I also doubt that there is a neutral behind the switches that could be
connected to the face plate.
Adam
> "Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:50e6730...@davenoise.co.uk...
> > In article <hkp89i$i57$1...@south.jnrs.ja.net>,
> > chunkyoldcortina <chu...@example.com> wrote:
> >> Now part of me is wondering if this is because the 1960s/1970s house
> >> has two core twin cable feeding the lighting circuits (ie no earth)
> >> and some bright spark(y) in the past has decided it is a good idea to
> >> connect the faceplates to neutral as there's no earth, so that should
> >> there be ever be a fault where the faceplate could become live, it
> >> will blow the protecting fuse.
> >
> > I'd get it sorted pronto. All the metal faced switches I've seen say
> > they *must* be earthed. If your wiring is so old it doesn't have an
> > ECC, either replace that (best way) or change to plastic switches.
> Yes, I would say this needs sorting.
> I also doubt that there is a neutral behind the switches that could be
> connected to the face plate.
And would any sparks actually do this anyway?
I have seen one pro installation where a signal light on a light switch
used the earth as return - I'd guess they forgot to install the correct
cable as it was on the spec - but not the other way round.
--
*Age is a very high price to pay for maturity.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
Hopefully not! I would explain the situation to the customer and try to
start by installing plastic lightswitches. If the customer refused then I
would walk away. Better to lose half a days income than be plastered all
over the local paper when things go wrong.
> I have seen one pro installation where a signal light on a light switch
> used the earth as return - I'd guess they forgot to install the correct
> cable as it was on the spec - but not the other way round.
No surprises there then. Apparently is was a pro electrician that wired up
my brothers first house (a newbuild 20 years ago). For some reason the pro
laid the 3 core strapper in a straight line between the landing light switch
and hall wall lightswitch. The installation of a new handrail soon found
that cable:-)
Some signal lightwitches do use a neon and are supposed to be OK using the
earth as the return. I would not do that on a new install though.
Adam