What spanner for inaccessible nut

[Andrew May]

I need to tighten the cold water connection to a Vaillant EcoTec
combination boiler. Unfortunately there are a series of connections in
close proximity so my normal adjustable pliers won't fit.

Installation details for the boiler here:

http://www.vaillant.co.uk/stepone2/data/downloads/d7/42/00/ecoTEC_installation_and_servicing.pdf

shows the arrangement.

what is the best tool for the job?

Andrew

[Baz]

"Andrew May" <andrew...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a48thb...@mid.individual.net...

Hi Andrew.

I think you need to look at "Normal" spanners rather than an adjustable
spanner.

If a normal one is still too thick, you can get "Thin Profile" spanners that
will do the trick.

Or use an Angle Grinder to thin the ones you have.

Baz

[Andrew May]

The problem is not the thickness of the spanner but its width. The
connections are effectively a series of nuts (as on a compression
fitting) next to each other so the spanner cannot be put across flat
because it is interfered by the nut next to it.

[John Williamson]

On 18/06/2012 16:46, Andrew May wrote:
> The problem is not the thickness of the spanner but its width. The
> connections are effectively a series of nuts (as on a compression
> fitting) next to each other so the spanner cannot be put across flat
> because it is interfered by the nut next to it.
>

An open ended ring spanner, otherwise known as a pipe spanner or brake
pipe spanner, should do the job. They only need about 4mm clearance
between the corners on the fitting heads. If you can't find one in your
local Halfrauds or other tool porn shop, then buy a normal ring spanner
and cut just enough out of the ring so that you can get it past the
pipe. I have a number of them in my tool box.

If you know a mechanic or you work for a firm which employs them,
Snap-on and Britool agents both sell them at a price which will make you
wince, but you'll only ever need to buy the one. If space is *really*
tight, you can get a similar thing which can be turned by a half inch
drive extension on a ratchet or T-bar.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

[Andrew May]

Thanks, that looks like the sort of thing. Not cheap though, seem to be
around the same price for one that you can pay for a whole set of
ordinary spanners.

Anyone know what size is required for 15mm pipe connectors?

[Andrew May]

Looks like something like this:

<http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Split+Ring+Compression+Fitting+Spanner+2432mm/d10/sd210/p23418>

might do the job.

[John Williamson]

On 18/06/2012 17:32, Andrew May wrote:
>> Anyone know what size is required for 15mm pipe connectors?
>>
> Looks like something like this:
>
> <http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Split+Ring+Compression+Fitting+Spanner+2432mm/d10/sd210/p23418>
>
>
> might do the job.
>

The blurb says for 15 & 22mm compression fittings, so it should do it.

They're not cheap, but they're also not made of cheese the way cheap
spanners often seem to be. The only reason you'll normally need to
replace one is if you lose it.

[dennis@home]

"Andrew May" <andrew...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:a493hb...@mid.individual.net...

<http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Split+Ring+Compression+Fitting+Spanner+2432mm/d10/sd210/p23418>
>
> might do the job.
>

I have one of those, they work quite well but they don't fit all 15/22 mm
fittings.

[Andrew May]

Well, I bought one of these last night and it will fit every connection
_except_ the one I am trying to tighten. The filling loop is alongside
so the spanner wall is too thick to get to the nut. I can't rotate the
spanner to get it over the nut in the other direction because then the
handle interferes with the adjacent nut. If the opening to the spanner
was on the side rather then the end I might be able to do it but not
sure if I would be able to turn it.


So, still looking for a way of tightening this bleeding nut.

[Tim Lamb]

In message <a4ar96...@mid.individual.net>, Andrew May
<andrew...@hotmail.com> writes

err... can you not loosen the adjacent nut by enough turns to allow
tightening the two together and then re-tighten?

regards
>

--
Tim Lamb

[Rod Speed]

"Andrew May" <andrew...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:a4ar96...@mid.individual.net...

> On 18/06/2012 17:40, John Williamson wrote:
>> On 18/06/2012 17:32, Andrew May wrote:
>>>> Anyone know what size is required for 15mm pipe connectors?
>>>>
>>> Looks like something like this:
>>>
>>> <http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Split+Ring+Compression+Fitting+Spanner+2432mm/d10/sd210/p23418>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> might do the job.
>>>
>> The blurb says for 15 & 22mm compression fittings, so it should do it.
>>
>> They're not cheap, but they're also not made of cheese the way cheap
>> spanners often seem to be. The only reason you'll normally need to
>> replace one is if you lose it.
>>
> Well, I bought one of these last night and it will fit every connection
> _except_ the one I am trying to tighten. The filling loop is alongside so
> the spanner wall is too thick to get to the nut.

Why cant you just grind it thinner for your situation ?

> I can't rotate the spanner to get it over the nut in the other direction
> because then the handle interferes with the adjacent nut. If the opening
> to the spanner was on the side rather then the end I might be able to do
> it but not sure if I would be able to turn it.

A picture would be handy.

[Andrew May]

I could perhaps remove the adjacent nut and pipe to get the access that
I need but that would mean draining down the system first - which I
would prefer to avoid if I possibly can, not least because it would
require a new load of inhibitor to be installed.

[John Williamson]

The Haynes manual in reverse, then. Dismantling has to be in the exact
reverse order of assembly.

You say elsewhere that undoing the adjacent nut needs a drain down, but
you say here that the filing loop is in the way. Surely that can be
removed without draining down, as it should have a tap at both ends?

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 19/06/2012 09:47, Rod Speed wrote:

> Why cant you just grind it thinner for your situation ?

I've got one of those from my tractor fitting days.
It's actually been ground thinner and narrower and was for one specific
nut on the hydraulics system but still worked as a regular spanner if
required.

[Andrew May]

Sorry, different nuts. The nut I am trying to tighten is the cold water
feed. This is on a single subassembly that included the outlet for the
filling loop. Hence the filling loop part of the sub-assembly, not the
pipe, is within a couple of mm of the nut so I cannot get the spanner
around in that direction. The adjacent nut is for a 22mm pipe which
forms the return of the main circuit. It is completely separate but
close enough (10mm or so) to make it difficult to get a spanner in from
that direction.

[dennis@home]

"Andrew May" <andrew...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:a4b258...@mid.individual.net...

> Sorry, different nuts. The nut I am trying to tighten is the cold water
> feed. This is on a single subassembly that included the outlet for the
> filling loop. Hence the filling loop part of the sub-assembly, not the
> pipe, is within a couple of mm of the nut so I cannot get the spanner
> around in that direction. The adjacent nut is for a 22mm pipe which forms
> the return of the main circuit. It is completely separate but close enough
> (10mm or so) to make it difficult to get a spanner in from that direction.
>

Its not something silly like taking the filling loop bit off or fitting it
the other way?

[The Natural Philosopher]

could freeze it.....


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

[Dave Liquorice]

On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 00:22:33 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

>> I need but that would mean draining down the system first - which
I
>> would prefer to avoid if I possibly can, not least because it
would
>> require a new load of inhibitor to be installed.
>
> could freeze it.....

Or drain down into a suitable container and put back in. Oh
pressuriesed system so no handy expansion tank to pour it back
into... Guess you could take a blanking plug out of the top of the
highest radiator and get it back in that way.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[Andrew May]

On 20/06/2012 00:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

> Andrew May wrote:

>> I could perhaps remove the adjacent nut and pipe to get the access
>> that I need but that would mean draining down the system first - which
>> I would prefer to avoid if I possibly can, not least because it would
>> require a new load of inhibitor to be installed.
>>
> could freeze it.....
>
>

That would be one option although there must be a chunk of water in the
boiler itself that will need to be removed especially as it will include
the pressure vessel.

However thinking about it the boiler, being in an upstairs cupboard, is
probably the highest point in the system so may not need to drain down
that much, not much more than would be lost from the boiler after freezing.

Currently wondering whether a pair of water pump pliers might get to
where I need but surprisingly it is a tool that I do not have - yet.