greasing sds drills
Fred
SDS newbie question: I bought a cheap sds drill from Screwfix. It says
on the top to check the grease level regularly but it doesn't say how
often to check or how full it should be. I was chiseling some chases
and when I looked after, it appeared empty. I filled it to the brim
with grease and did more chasing and the walls got covered in grease!
So is it that these will spit if overfilled? What is the right level
to fill to and how often should you check: before every job?
I see that there is a rod in the bottom: is the important thing to
keep that covered? Is that the hammer mechanism?
It can be quite tiring using a 6kg drill to chisel, and now that I
appreciate what sds can do, I think I might look for a 2kg drill. It
seems that some of these can pack as big a punch as the 6kg drills. I
notice that the branded 2kg drills do not need grease, why do the 6kg
ones?
TIA
Andy Dingley
> SDS newbie question: I bought a cheap sds drill from Screwfix. It says
> on the top to check the grease level regularly but it doesn't say how
> often to check or how full it should be.
I keep a small syringe full of grease (just bike grease) in the drill
box. If drill bits look dry (or dirty, in which case I wipe them
first) I place a tiny drop on each of the four splines on the
drillbit. I've never greased the drill (machine) itself, nor does it
need to be "filled".
You're lubricating the slideways, and on an SDS these are the bit
rather than the main mechanism. You don't need to grease the impact
face: that's not sliding sideways, and (as you discovered) you'll get
the grease pumped out and everywhere.
I suspect your instructions have suffered a little in translation.
John
I got one of these http://tinyurl.com/39e6yon (link goes to ebay) and it's
brilliant, highly recommended. I usually grease the bit of the bit that goes
in the chuck IYSWIM :o)
Tim Watts
> On 11 May, 10:00, Fred<f...@no-email.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>> SDS newbie question: I bought a cheap sds drill from Screwfix. It says
>> on the top to check the grease level regularly but it doesn't say how
>> often to check or how full it should be.
>
> I keep a small syringe full of grease (just bike grease) in the drill
> box. If drill bits look dry (or dirty, in which case I wipe them
> first) I place a tiny drop on each of the four splines on the
> drillbit. I've never greased the drill (machine) itself, nor does it
> need to be "filled".
My technique is to have a "mouldy" pot of LM grease (ie rough jobs, not
for packing bearings) - I dip the end of the drill in about 1/2" then
wipe the sides off on the pot leaving a bit in the grooves.
As for the machine, my Hitachi mentions greasing the mechanism as a
maintenance item, but the knowledgeable shopkeeper said it almost never
needed to be done as the grease is normally good for life in practise.
It's not really a "user" job - involves taking the machine to bits.
> You're lubricating the slideways, and on an SDS these are the bit
> rather than the main mechanism. You don't need to grease the impact
> face: that's not sliding sideways, and (as you discovered) you'll get
> the grease pumped out and everywhere.
>
> I suspect your instructions have suffered a little in translation.
--
Tim Watts
Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.
Andrew Gabriel
There are two things that need grease - the back of the bits where
they go into the SDS chuck, and the gearbox.
On my metabo, the chuck nose is rubber and you must use a grease
which doesn't rot the rubber. (I got that wrong to start with, but
they very nicely sent me a new chuck for free, as it should have
come with the correct grease but it was missing.)
Topping up the gearbox grease isn't possible with all SDS. I'm
wondering if yours deliberately leaks the gearbox grease onto the
back of the bit? In mine, the gearbox has no provision for user
topping up, but you can send it back to Metabo for a service. I
haven't needed to in 10 years as yet (excluding it having to go
back when it was brand new for two faults), although it's
probably about due now. However, this is a professional SDS drill
which I bought before the DIY products existed.
I'd agree on the weight issue. Mine's 2.something kg which is not
a problem to use for a long time. Unless you're built like Arnie,
the heavier ones are tiring. In 10 years, there are only two times
when it would have been nice to have a more powerful one, and the
rest of the time, not.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Fred
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>There are two things that need grease - the back of the bits where
>they go into the SDS chuck, and the gearbox.
[...]
>Topping up the gearbox grease isn't possible with all SDS. I'm
>wondering if yours deliberately leaks the gearbox grease onto the
>back of the bit?
I was talking about greasing the gearbox but I notice that all the
other replies have talked about greasing the bits. I never knew that I
was supposed to grease them, but then I did declare myself an sds
newbie <:-)
I think the bits do come out with grease on them, though I hadn't
realised it was a design feature!
The drill is a Screwfix Titan like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/88854/Power-Tools/SDS-Drills/Titan-PDH26S6-6kg-SDS-Plus-Drill
On the enlarged photo, you can see an array of slots on the front of
the blue bit and a slot on the side where the blue plastic half meets
the metal top half. Grease seems to be ejected from these. The lid for
the gearbox is the black circle nearest the handle.
Does the gearbox drive just the hammer action or also the rotation?
I'm wondering whether it is the hammering that eats the grease?
>I'd agree on the weight issue. Mine's 2.something kg which is not
>a problem to use for a long time. Unless you're built like Arnie,
>the heavier ones are tiring. In 10 years, there are only two times
>when it would have been nice to have a more powerful one, and the
>rest of the time, not.
Although this is a 6kg drill, the figures for drilling capacity are
not that different to a blue bosch that weighs just 2kg, though I
notice the impact energy is claimed to be a respectable 4J.
Andrew Gabriel
Fred <fr...@no-email.here.invalid> writes:
> On Tue, 11 May 2010 10:28:11 +0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
> (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>There are two things that need grease - the back of the bits where
>>they go into the SDS chuck, and the gearbox.
> [...]
>>Topping up the gearbox grease isn't possible with all SDS. I'm
>>wondering if yours deliberately leaks the gearbox grease onto the
>>back of the bit?
>
> I was talking about greasing the gearbox but I notice that all the
> other replies have talked about greasing the bits. I never knew that I
> was supposed to grease them, but then I did declare myself an sds
> newbie <:-)
>
> I think the bits do come out with grease on them, though I hadn't
> realised it was a design feature!
>
> The drill is a Screwfix Titan like this:
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/88854/Power-Tools/SDS-Drills/Titan-PDH26S6-6kg-SDS-Plus-Drill
>
> On the enlarged photo, you can see an array of slots on the front of
> the blue bit and a slot on the side where the blue plastic half meets
> the metal top half. Grease seems to be ejected from these.
That would be a faulty seal on the gearbox input, although I
would question if you're supposed to completely fill the gearbox.
> The lid for the gearbox is the black circle nearest the handle.
>
> Does the gearbox drive just the hammer action or also the rotation?
A drill gearbox always needs reduction gearing as the universal
motors they use spin too fast for direct coupling, and the torque
gain is also important. In this case, it also needs to change the
drive shaft direction through 90 degrees, and in many cases, it
provides alternative gear ratios too, and sometimes a reverse
gear.
> I'm wondering whether it is the hammering that eats the grease?
Depends where it leaks from (probably not in your case).
John Rumm
> Hi,
>
> SDS newbie question: I bought a cheap sds drill from Screwfix. It says
> on the top to check the grease level regularly but it doesn't say how
> often to check or how full it should be. I was chiseling some chases
> and when I looked after, it appeared empty. I filled it to the brim
> with grease and did more chasing and the walls got covered in grease!
> So is it that these will spit if overfilled? What is the right level
> to fill to and how often should you check: before every job?
This was certainly par for the course with some of the original design
of cheap SDS machines like the NuTool etc. They eventually degrade into
a sticky greasy mess that covers everything.
The better machines have sealed gearboxes, and just require the back of
the bit is lubricated from time to time.
> I see that there is a rod in the bottom: is the important thing to
> keep that covered? Is that the hammer mechanism?
>
> It can be quite tiring using a 6kg drill to chisel, and now that I
> appreciate what sds can do, I think I might look for a 2kg drill. It
> seems that some of these can pack as big a punch as the 6kg drills. I
> notice that the branded 2kg drills do not need grease, why do the 6kg
> ones?
Price mostly. Creating grease tight mechanisms and gearboxes takes
somewhat more engineering precision.
Note also there are two classes of 6kg machine. There is the budget SDS
which has impact energy of between 2 - 3J per blow (the same as the
professional 2kg machines), but there are also professional tools in
this range with a 4 - 6J impact capability.
If you are upgrading look for one with a decent speed controller, and a
chuck that allows the chisel to be rotated to a position of your choice
and then locked. That way you can align chisel with a direction you want
to cut, and also start and markout with it at low revs before going full
whack.
If you have a look at the "what to look for" section, you may find some
relevant stuff:
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/sds.htm
--
Cheers,
John.
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
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\=================================================================/
Fred
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>That would be a faulty seal on the gearbox input, although I
>would question if you're supposed to completely fill the gearbox.
I think that overfilling may have made matters worse as it was only
when filled to the brim that it spat madly everywhere.
I'm not sure whether there is a fault as the instructions do intend
you to top-up regularly, so they obviously expect it to go down in
use. Other posts suggest that other budget drills have the same
failings.
BTW you never told me why the dc07 was better than the dc04 round the
house ;)
Fred
<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>If you are upgrading look for one with a decent speed controller, and a
>chuck that allows the chisel to be rotated to a position of your choice
>and then locked. That way you can align chisel with a direction you want
>to cut, and also start and markout with it at low revs before going full
>whack.
Yes, I have found that getting the chisel where I want it is not
always as simple as it could be. I also find that the sizes of chisel
available are limited.
I think you can only get 25mm and 40mm wide chisels, but I guess if
the chisel was wider you would be distributing the impact force over a
wider area so it wouldn't be as effective?
The chisel bits seem to be about a foot long but I sometimes wish you
could get slightly longer ones for when you are chiselling the floor
and slightly shorter ones when you are chiselling the wall to be
kinder on your back. Is the reason you can't get shorter ones to keep
you at a safe distance and stop ejected material hitting you?
TIA
John Rumm
> On Tue, 11 May 2010 23:10:42 +0100, John Rumm
> <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>> If you are upgrading look for one with a decent speed controller, and a
>> chuck that allows the chisel to be rotated to a position of your choice
>> and then locked. That way you can align chisel with a direction you want
>> to cut, and also start and markout with it at low revs before going full
>> whack.
>
> Yes, I have found that getting the chisel where I want it is not
> always as simple as it could be. I also find that the sizes of chisel
> available are limited.
>
> I think you can only get 25mm and 40mm wide chisels, but I guess if
> the chisel was wider you would be distributing the impact force over a
> wider area so it wouldn't be as effective?
Point, 20mm, 40, 60, and 80 are certainly available. However I find 20
and 40 to be the most useful combination. Occasionally I also used a
cranked gouge or a brick removing chisel.
> The chisel bits seem to be about a foot long but I sometimes wish you
> could get slightly longer ones for when you are chiselling the floor
> and slightly shorter ones when you are chiselling the wall to be
> kinder on your back. Is the reason you can't get shorter ones to keep
> you at a safe distance and stop ejected material hitting you?
I am sure my ones are shorter than a foot - they fit in the drill case
quite comfortably. Probably about 8" IIRC. I think they were QDS brand
from SF probably.
Longer could probably be arranged with a few chisels and angle grinder
and a welder! ;-)
Spannerman
Fred, The Titan is the new version of the old Challenger model. I've had my
Challenger for nigh on 20 years and used very regularly and still going. I
have found Makita Hammer Grease the best. I have attached image of the user
manual, it suggests to check level every 6 hours use, I have found that to be
excessive every 40 hours of use should be sufficient. Over filling will
result in excess grease ejected via the chuck. Hope this helps.
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/jv
tabb...@gmail.com
NT
harry
There needs to be grease on the moving parts, not jam packed full.
JohnDoe
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/greasing-sds-drills-631096-.htm
Rod Speed
> Can you redo the link or give us the name of the product you talking about
> as the link is broken :/ Thanks
Peeler
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
> JohnDoe <34a4e66e0104ce7f...@example.com> wrote
>
>> Can you redo the link or give us the name of the product you talking about
>> as the link is broken :/ Thanks
>
> Unlikely to still be around after 11 years.
<tsk>
--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID: <g4t0jt...@mid.individual.net>
Paul
> Can you redo the link or give us the name of the product you talking
> about as the link is broken :/ Thanks
>
"I got one of these http://tinyurl.com/39e6yon (link goes to ebay) and it's
brilliant, highly recommended. I usually grease the bit of the bit that goes
in the chuck IYSWIM :o) "
http://tinyurl.com/39e6yon
like this:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/39e6yon
and you will see what the link said.
A similar item is this.
https://www.wellyweld.com/products/dh24pc3-sds-plus-hammer-drill-240v-72744.aspx
No, I can't see the Ebay page, I just got the link value and
found a similar one.
And be careful what you use those on. Some people
who use hammer drills, they "lean on them like they're
a jack hammer". Not all the things you're drilling
through, can take that kind of abuse. Sometimes
you just have to shut off the hammer, stop leaning
on the tool, and drill your way through. Using
a fresh bit. If you're "riding it like a pony",
that's hard on the drill too.
Paul
John Rumm
> Can you redo the link or give us the name of the product you talking
> about as the link is broken :/ Thanks
the mangled home owners hub history, all the original thread structure
has been lost, so it's no clear.
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Home_owners_hub
Brian Gaff (Sofa)
wiki somewhere on this sort of thing by now.
Brian
--
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:QKKdnQNNpMaW0j39...@brightview.co.uk...
Andrew
> On 15/05/2021 17:01, JohnDoe wrote:
>
>> Can you redo the link or give us the name of the product you talking
>> about as the link is broken :/ Thanks
>
> Could you give us a clue to what you are referring to? Even looking at
> the mangled home owners hub history, all the original thread structure
> has been lost, so it's no clear.
>
> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Home_owners_hub
>
>
the sds drill bit 'splines' as you slide it into the drill.
I just use CV joint grease. You should be able to blag some
from a friendly garage.
ARW
> JohnDoe wrote:
>> Can you redo the link or give us the name of the product you talking
>> about as the link is broken :/ Thanks
>>
>
> You can dig up a link as follows.
>
> "I got one of these http://tinyurl.com/39e6yon (link goes to ebay)
> and it's
> brilliant, highly recommended. I usually grease the bit of the bit
> that goes
> in the chuck IYSWIM :o) "
>
> Edit the original URL:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/39e6yon
>
> like this:
>
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/39e6yon
>
> and you will see what the link said.
>
> A similar item is this.
>
> https://www.wellyweld.com/products/dh24pc3-sds-plus-hammer-drill-240v-72744.aspx
>
>
> No, I can't see the Ebay page, I just got the link value and
> found a similar one.
>
>
--
Adam
noth...@aolbin.com
gubbins. I've never greased my elderly DeW 2kg or Titan 4kg - heavily
used and still going strong.
charles
so may be a bit of grease might help?
--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle
John Rumm
https://cpc.farnell.com/electrolube/mpg50t/multi-purpose-grease-mpg-50ml/dp/ME18004?st=grease%20tube
in the drill case. It only requires very occasional use on a drill bit
or chisel shank.