Converting a hinged door to sliding (or, possibly, bi-fold))

[no_...@thanks.com]

A small kitchen has a large door opening into it and the door always
seems to be in the way. The options seem to be to convert it to a
bi-fold or put it on a sliding rail ... sliding looks like the better
option as there's a convenient recess that the door can slide into and
be completely out of the way.

Can anyone recommend sliding door or bi-fold conversions that don't need
a floor track?

I don't want to remove the skirting in the area that the door will slide
into so plan to leave the architrave as well and just extend the door
lining to be close to the door ... is there a better way of doing this?

[Adrian C]

On 17/07/14 15:21, no_...@thanks.com wrote:
> A small kitchen has a large door opening into it and the door always
> seems to be in the way. The options seem to be to convert it to a
> bi-fold or put it on a sliding rail ... sliding looks like the better
> option as there's a convenient recess that the door can slide into and
> be completely out of the way.
>
> Can anyone recommend sliding door or bi-fold conversions that don't need

> a floor track?#

I've installed one (B&Q - 2006) in the workshop that has the door
hanging from an overhead rail. There's no floor track, rather a single
peg that locates itself in a grooved slot attached to the bottom of the
door.

>
> I don't want to remove the skirting in the area that the door will slide
> into so plan to leave the architrave as well and just extend the door
> lining to be close to the door ... is there a better way of doing this?

My door sweeps just past the frame lining which makes it airtight when
closed.

--
Adrian C

[Andy Burns]

no_...@thanks.com wrote:

> Can anyone recommend sliding door or bi-fold conversions that don't need
> a floor track?

I haven't used them (been considering it for a couple of years) but you
might want to look at pocket door fitting kits

<http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/sliding_door_hardware/pocket_door_systems>

[no_...@thanks.com]

A good idea if this was a new wall but it would be a real pain to deskin
the existing wall and change the studs and bracing.

[no_...@thanks.com]

What does it "stop" against - an extended lining?

[Tim Watts]

Sliding doors (not bi-fold) can work with a track (simple metal channel)
recessed in the bottom edge of the door and a pin in the floor at one
edge of the opening (the "open" edge if you see what I mean).

This is quite commonly done.

[harryagain]

<no_...@thanks.com> wrote in message
news:c2q4fc...@mid.individual.net...

Usually there is a single pin on the floor engages with a groove on the
underside of the door.
The groove has a "kick" in the end that swings the door against the frame as
it closes the last inch or so..
When you have the door hung, beads are nailed to the door frame to make it
draught proof.

[andrew]

These are a good kit:
http://www.eclisse.co.uk/Products/Paris-Surface-Mount-Wood/Paris-3

Available in 3 versions - just the running kit, kit plus wooden top cover, or with a jamb to close against too.

A

[Rod Speed]

<no_...@thanks.com> wrote

> A small kitchen has a large door opening into it and the door
> always seems to be in the way. The options seem to be to
> convert it to a bi-fold or put it on a sliding rail ... sliding
> looks like the better option as there's a convenient recess that
> the door can slide into and be completely out of the way.

Yeah, it's the best approach IMO.

> Can anyone recommend sliding door or bi-fold
> conversions that don't need a floor track?

Yes, none of my sliding doors have a floor track.

There is just a very small thing at the wall end of the
opening that the door slides past, attached to the
floor, actually just off the door opening in the wall.

[The Medway Handyman]

I've fitted a few, Screwfix do a kit
http://www.screwfix.com/p/door-gear-sliding-ball-race-1426mm/12982

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Adrian C]

No, a stopper in the overhead track

| |
-------' '---------
|p````````````````````````|s
'-------------------------'

p = peg, mounted in floor
s = stopper, track mounted


http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/turnstyler/193175035_7352f6c736_o_zpsf5964eed.jpg



--
Adrian C

[Andy Burns]

Adrian C wrote:

> no_...@thanks.com wrote:
>
>> What does it "stop" against - an extended lining?
>
> No, a stopper in the overhead track
>

> http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/turnstyler/193175035_7352f6c736_o_zpsf5964eed.jpg

A student hovel I rented in the 80's had one for the bathroom door, it
did a good job of increasing the usable space in a small room, but a bad
job of staying on the runner with three blokes sharing a house.

[Roger Mills]

Bi-fold is easier to the extent that the two halves together will be the
same width as the existing door, so will fit into the rebates without
having to fill them or remove the architrave. But if you cut an ordinary
internal door in half, you'll just have cardboard honeycomb in the
middle - so you'll have to construct two new vertical frame members, and
glue them in place. Actually, your woes won't stop there! Whether
sliding or bi-fold, you'll have to reduce the height of the door -
either at the top or bottom, or both - resulting in more frame
re-construction.

If you go for a sliding door, the door needs to be slightly wider than
the aperture so - if using the existing door - you'll need to fill the
rebates in the door frame.[1] You'll get a far better job if you remove
the architrave and skirting, but you'll then have to beautify the wall
from which it's removed - although it may not be urgent in the recess if
if doesn't show. If you leave them on, the door will stand out a long
way from the wall and you'll need a very odd section of timber to fill
the rebates and come out flush with the architrave.

[1] I've just measured the sliding door in the room I use as an office,
and that is a 30" door in a 28" frame - so, if you wanted to achieve a
similar overlap, you'd need to do more than just filling the rebates.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

[Windmill]

Roger Mills <watt....@gmail.com> writes:

>On 17/07/2014 15:21, no_...@thanks.com wrote:
>> A small kitchen has a large door opening into it and the door always
>> seems to be in the way. The options seem to be to convert it to a
>> bi-fold or put it on a sliding rail ... sliding looks like the better
>> option as there's a convenient recess that the door can slide into and
>> be completely out of the way.
>>
>> Can anyone recommend sliding door or bi-fold conversions that don't need
>> a floor track?
>>
>> I don't want to remove the skirting in the area that the door will slide
>> into so plan to leave the architrave as well and just extend the door
>> lining to be close to the door ... is there a better way of doing this?

>Bi-fold is easier to the extent that the two halves together will be the
>same width as the existing door, so will fit into the rebates without
>having to fill them or remove the architrave. But if you cut an ordinary
>internal door in half, you'll just have cardboard honeycomb in the
>middle - so you'll have to construct two new vertical frame members, and
>glue them in place.

Which is a huge hassle. Wouldn't have started if I'd known enough to
realise that I'd have to cut out the honeycomb with a multi-tool, buy a
small table saw to cut timber from 38mm down to 27mm (was amazed to
discover that nowadays B&Q and the like won't cut small timber for
you), glue in place with expanding glue, then samd the result to the
precise width required.

>Actually, your woes won't stop there!

They didn't! The doors were remade very accurately (I was nervous), but
the 100 year old tenement building had an entire end wall rebuilt from
the ground up some years ago, and as a result evrything is slightly
lopsided. Not even trapezoid.
And bifold requires accurate positioning.
So more planing and sanding.

OTOH it doesn't block the opening as some sliding door arrangements
would do, and there's now room for a bedside table.

>Whether
>sliding or bi-fold, you'll have to reduce the height of the door -
>either at the top or bottom, or both - resulting in more frame
>re-construction.

>If you go for a sliding door, the door needs to be slightly wider than
>the aperture so - if using the existing door - you'll need to fill the
>rebates in the door frame.[1] You'll get a far better job if you remove
>the architrave and skirting, but you'll then have to beautify the wall
>from which it's removed - although it may not be urgent in the recess if
>if doesn't show. If you leave them on, the door will stand out a long
>way from the wall and you'll need a very odd section of timber to fill
>the rebates and come out flush with the architrave.

>[1] I've just measured the sliding door in the room I use as an office,
>and that is a 30" door in a 28" frame - so, if you wanted to achieve a
>similar overlap, you'd need to do more than just filling the rebates.
>--
>Cheers,
>Roger
>____________
>Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
>checked.

--
Windmill, Til...@NoneHome.com Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
All that is gold does not glister / Not all who wander are lost

[no_...@thanks.com]

Thanks, after a chat with the manufacturer I decided to use the Screwfix
kit and I'm pleased with the result. I even managed to re-use the
original brass handles by sawing-off the handle bit and turning down the
central part into a large peg.