electric fan oven: installation, power supply

[Adam Funk]

I need to get a new built-in electric fan oven. Our current one is
around the standard single oven size, and is plugged in with a normal
13 A plug and socket. (It's least 20 years old, probably quite a bit
older, and some years ago a repairman told me parts were no longer
available. Oh, and it just stopped working.)

I am having trouble determining, from the information on
manufacturers' & retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a
dedicated power supply & which ones can be plugged in. I'm willing to
have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
disadvantage to models that require it. Do they all require that now?

Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove
and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size
as the old one?

[NT]

On Feb 28, 2:36 pm, Adam Funk <a240...@ducksburg.com> wrote:
> I need to get a new built-in electric fan oven.  Our current one is
> around the standard single oven size, and is plugged in with a normal
> 13 A plug and socket.  (It's least 20 years old, probably quite a bit
> older, and some years ago a repairman told me parts were no longer
> available.  Oh, and it just stopped working.)

In a lot of cases one can simply use similar parts for another make/
model

> I am having trouble determining, from the information on
> manufacturers' & retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a
> dedicated power supply & which ones can be plugged in.  I'm willing to
> have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
> disadvantage to models that require it.  Do they all require that now?

If its justa single oven cavity, no hob, it'll run on a plug. Cookers
with hobs wont (normally).

> Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove
> and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size
> as the old one?

Open oven door, remove the few retaining screws, and pull the thing
out. Very easy.

If it were mine I'd check it with a multimeter to see which part had
failed.


NT

[Lobster]

On 28/02/2012 15:04, NT wrote:
> On Feb 28, 2:36 pm, Adam Funk<a240...@ducksburg.com> wrote:

>> I am having trouble determining, from the information on
>> manufacturers'& retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a

>> dedicated power supply& which ones can be plugged in. I'm willing to

>> have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
>> disadvantage to models that require it. Do they all require that now?
>
> If its justa single oven cavity, no hob, it'll run on a plug.

I agree that's normally the case, but I wouldn't guarantee it.
Furthermore, manufacturer's published specs don't necessarily include
the info.

I was in the same position as the OP some time ago, did the research and
bought what I thought was a suitable replacement from Curry's - wasn't
until I#d got it home and unpacked it that I found "no plug" and had to
return it.

>> Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove
>> and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size
>> as the old one?
>
> Open oven door, remove the few retaining screws, and pull the thing
> out. Very easy.

Yep. My old mum could do it if she was strong enough.

[NT]

On Feb 28, 5:58 pm, Lobster <davidlobsterpot...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> On 28/02/2012 15:04, NT wrote:
>
> > On Feb 28, 2:36 pm, Adam Funk<a240...@ducksburg.com>  wrote:
> >> I am having trouble determining, from the information on
> >> manufacturers'&  retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a
> >> dedicated power supply&  which ones can be plugged in.  I'm willing to
> >> have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
> >> disadvantage to models that require it.  Do they all require that now?
>
> > If its justa single oven cavity, no hob, it'll run on a plug.
>
> I agree that's normally the case, but I wouldn't guarantee it.
> Furthermore, manufacturer's published specs don't necessarily include
> the info.

Its a legal requirement to put the max power consumption on the
ratings plate. I'd be surprised if a normal sized single cavity oven
took more than 3.1kW.

> I was in the same position as the OP some time ago, did the research and
> bought what I thought was a suitable replacement from Curry's - wasn't
> until I#d got it home and unpacked it that I found "no plug" and had to
> return it.

What was its power rating?

> >> Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove
> >> and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size
> >> as the old one?
>
> > Open oven door, remove the few retaining screws, and pull the thing
> > out. Very easy.
>
> Yep.  My old mum could do it if she was strong enough.

NT

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-02-28, Lobster wrote:

> On 28/02/2012 15:04, NT wrote:
>> On Feb 28, 2:36 pm, Adam Funk<a240...@ducksburg.com> wrote:
>
>>> I am having trouble determining, from the information on
>>> manufacturers'& retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a
>>> dedicated power supply& which ones can be plugged in. I'm willing to
>>> have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
>>> disadvantage to models that require it. Do they all require that now?
>>
>> If its justa single oven cavity, no hob, it'll run on a plug.
>
> I agree that's normally the case, but I wouldn't guarantee it.
> Furthermore, manufacturer's published specs don't necessarily include
> the info.
>
> I was in the same position as the OP some time ago, did the research and
> bought what I thought was a suitable replacement from Curry's - wasn't
> until I#d got it home and unpacked it that I found "no plug" and had to
> return it.

Yes, one reason I'm asking is that I was looking at the Which Best
Buys & one of them had a customer comment along these lines (I don't
remember the exact wording) "I bought one of these then found out I
needed an electrician to run a special power supply for it. Unpleasant
surprise!"

[John Rumm]

On 28/02/2012 14:36, Adam Funk wrote:

> I need to get a new built-in electric fan oven. Our current one is
> around the standard single oven size, and is plugged in with a normal
> 13 A plug and socket. (It's least 20 years old, probably quite a bit
> older, and some years ago a repairman told me parts were no longer
> available. Oh, and it just stopped working.)
>
> I am having trouble determining, from the information on
> manufacturers'& retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a

> dedicated power supply& which ones can be plugged in. I'm willing to

> have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
> disadvantage to models that require it. Do they all require that now?

As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.

(look at the power rating <= 3kW can go on a socket)

> Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove
> and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size
> as the old one?

Usually pretty straight forward - couple of screws hold it in place, and
then it slides out.


--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-02-28, NT wrote:

> On Feb 28, 2:36 pm, Adam Funk <a240...@ducksburg.com> wrote:
>> I need to get a new built-in electric fan oven.  Our current one is
>> around the standard single oven size, and is plugged in with a normal
>> 13 A plug and socket.  (It's least 20 years old, probably quite a bit
>> older, and some years ago a repairman told me parts were no longer
>> available.  Oh, and it just stopped working.)
>
> In a lot of cases one can simply use similar parts for another make/
> model
>
>
>> I am having trouble determining, from the information on
>> manufacturers' & retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a
>> dedicated power supply & which ones can be plugged in.  I'm willing to
>> have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
>> disadvantage to models that require it.  Do they all require that now?
>
> If its justa single oven cavity, no hob, it'll run on a plug. Cookers
> with hobs wont (normally).

I saw some John Lewis own-brand ones that were specifically labelled
as requiring a 15 or 20 A supply. The others in the shop weren't
labelled at all & I didn't have time to ask. I guess I'll have to ask
in the shops or call the manufacturers.

>> Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove
>> and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size
>> as the old one?
>
> Open oven door, remove the few retaining screws, and pull the thing
> out. Very easy.
>
> If it were mine I'd check it with a multimeter to see which part had
> failed.

TBH, there are some other problems with this old oven (door hinges are
cranky; buttons have fallen off so it's hard to set the clock; etc.)
so I'm willing to retire it.

[jgharston]

John Rumm wrote:
> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,

Though even then, if wiring up a kitchen I'd put in a dedicated spur
for it, not have it pulling load from the same circuit as the washer,
tumble drier, toaster, kettle, fridge, freezer, etc.

(Experience of my brother's house always going POP in the middle of
cooking when more than two other appliances were also on.)

JGH

[NT]

Replacing a 32A mcb with a 30A fuse can often fix that. They're very
tolerant of short term overcurrents, as are the cable & accessories.


NT

[ARWadsworth]

John Rumm wrote:
> On 28/02/2012 14:36, Adam Funk wrote:
>
> > I need to get a new built-in electric fan oven. Our current one is
> > around the standard single oven size, and is plugged in with a
> > normal 13 A plug and socket. (It's least 20 years old, probably
> > quite a bit older, and some years ago a repairman told me parts
> > were no longer available. Oh, and it just stopped working.)
> >
> > I am having trouble determining, from the information on
> > manufacturers'& retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a
> > dedicated power supply& which ones can be plugged in. I'm willing
> > to have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a
> > disadvantage to models that require it. Do they all require that
> > now?
>
> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>
> (look at the power rating <= 3kW can go on a socket)

That is what I find odd about appendix 15 of the regs.

I do not consider an oven (>2kW) to be a high continuous load. They heat up
very quickly and then they cycle the power. A cold water only washing
machine doing a boil wash would be better off on it's own supply than the
oven.

Of course it is all bollocks as the ring final circuit works just fine in
the real world.

--
Adam

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-02-28, John Rumm wrote:

> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>
> (look at the power rating <= 3kW can go on a socket)

I'm not sure it's that simple these days. I've just found one with
the following in different parts of the specifications:

"Total load rating 2.85 kW"

and

"Requires 30 amps power setting and cooker point connection"

[John Rumm]

On 01/03/2012 15:09, Adam Funk wrote:
> On 2012-02-28, John Rumm wrote:
>
>> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
>> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>>
>> (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
>
> I'm not sure it's that simple these days. I've just found one with

Well it is quite simple really...

> the following in different parts of the specifications:
>
> "Total load rating 2.85 kW"

2.85 is getting close to the limit for a socketed connection, however it
is still just inside (assuming that quoted 2.85kW at 240V). In reality
because its a quite diverse load, the average current will be well below
the 12.4A that the numbers would suggest.

> "Requires 30 amps power setting and cooker point connection"

Well its not quite true, although it may be preferable. Depends a bit on
what else is on the circuit the oven would otherwise be plugged into.

There is obviously no harm in running from a dedicated circuit, and when
wiring a cooker point (without an integral socket), its often quite
handy to make the switch control not only a cooker flex outlet, but also
a socket in the oven enclosure.

[NT]

On Mar 1, 3:30 pm, John Rumm <see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
> On 01/03/2012 15:09, Adam Funk wrote:
>
> > On 2012-02-28, John Rumm wrote:
>
> >> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
> >> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>
> >> (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
>
> > I'm not sure it's that simple these days.  I've just found one with
>
> Well it is quite simple really...

It is. A load of under 13A intermittent, which ovens are, is fine on a
plug.

> > the following in different parts of the specifications:
>
> > "Total load rating 2.85 kW"
>
> 2.85 is getting close to the limit for a socketed connection, however it
> is still just inside (assuming that quoted 2.85kW at 240V). In reality
> because its a quite diverse load, the average current will be well below
> the 12.4A that the numbers would suggest.
>
> > "Requires 30 amps power setting and cooker point connection"
>
> Well its not quite true, although it may be preferable.

exactly

> Depends a bit on
> what else is on the circuit the oven would otherwise be plugged into.

and what type of circuit protection is being used. A 30A circuit can
be run at over 45A at times, on the last one I saw run like this
nothing got hot, and the fuse didn't mind, as it was intermittent high
current.

> There is obviously no harm in running from a dedicated circuit, and when
> wiring a cooker point (without an integral socket), its often quite
> handy to make the switch control not only a cooker flex outlet, but also
> a socket in the oven enclosure.

the harm is financial.


NT

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-03-01, John Rumm wrote:

> On 01/03/2012 15:09, Adam Funk wrote:
>> On 2012-02-28, John Rumm wrote:
>>
>>> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
>>> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>>>
>>> (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
>>
>> I'm not sure it's that simple these days. I've just found one with
>
> Well it is quite simple really...
>
>> the following in different parts of the specifications:
>>
>> "Total load rating 2.85 kW"
>
> 2.85 is getting close to the limit for a socketed connection, however it
> is still just inside (assuming that quoted 2.85kW at 240V). In reality
> because its a quite diverse load, the average current will be well below
> the 12.4A that the numbers would suggest.

True when the oven element cycles on & off. I'm not sure how much
power the grill draws, & what happens if you happen to use the kettle
& toaster at the same time ... but the fuse has never blown in our
existing set-up.


And I found a Zanussi model where the manufacturer's PDF states "This
appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main cable" and then
has this table:

Applicable types of cables for UK only
Connection via Min. size Cable/flex type Fuse
Cable/flex

• 13 A socket outlet 2,5 mm2 Three core butyl insulated 13 A min.
• 13 A spur box

Oven Control Circuit 2,5 mm2 PVC/PVC twin and earth 15 A min.
20 A min.

but then a retailer's website says for the same model "Requires
hardwiring by an electrician Needs to be wired directly in to a cooker
socket". Are they just over-specifying it to err well on the safe
side?

>> "Requires 30 amps power setting and cooker point connection"
>
> Well its not quite true, although it may be preferable. Depends a bit on
> what else is on the circuit the oven would otherwise be plugged into.
>
> There is obviously no harm in running from a dedicated circuit, and when
> wiring a cooker point (without an integral socket), its often quite
> handy to make the switch control not only a cooker flex outlet, but also
> a socket in the oven enclosure.

I may just give up and get the cooker circuit installed to make
selection easier and to cover the longer term.

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-02-29, ARWadsworth wrote:

> John Rumm wrote:

>> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
>> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>>
>> (look at the power rating <= 3kW can go on a socket)
>
> That is what I find odd about appendix 15 of the regs.
>
> I do not consider an oven (>2kW) to be a high continuous load. They heat up
> very quickly and then they cycle the power. A cold water only washing
> machine doing a boil wash would be better off on it's own supply than the
> oven.

How would you do it in your house?

> Of course it is all bollocks as the ring final circuit works just fine in
> the real world.

Oh, I guess that might be the answer. ;-)

[John Rumm]

On 01/03/2012 16:00, NT wrote:
> On Mar 1, 3:30 pm, John Rumm<see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>> On 01/03/2012 15:09, Adam Funk wrote:
>>
>>> On 2012-02-28, John Rumm wrote:
>>
>>>> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
>>>> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>>
>>>> (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
>>
>>> I'm not sure it's that simple these days. I've just found one with
>>
>> Well it is quite simple really...
>
> It is. A load of under 13A intermittent, which ovens are, is fine on a
> plug.
>
>
>>> the following in different parts of the specifications:
>>
>>> "Total load rating 2.85 kW"
>>
>> 2.85 is getting close to the limit for a socketed connection, however it
>> is still just inside (assuming that quoted 2.85kW at 240V). In reality
>> because its a quite diverse load, the average current will be well below
>> the 12.4A that the numbers would suggest.
>>
>>> "Requires 30 amps power setting and cooker point connection"
>>
>> Well its not quite true, although it may be preferable.
>
> exactly
>
>> Depends a bit on
>> what else is on the circuit the oven would otherwise be plugged into.
>
> and what type of circuit protection is being used. A 30A circuit can

Yup, that is a good point... If you have wired the kitchen as a bunch of
20A radials, then its probably best to shift loads like that off them if
you can.

> be run at over 45A at times, on the last one I saw run like this
> nothing got hot, and the fuse didn't mind, as it was intermittent high
> current.

Indeed. You want a design that will not routinely run for long periods
at a low overload, but even quite high overloads for short periods are ok.

With (domestic) kitchens you only really need count the the big loads
that have a reasonable duration... so the tumble driver, washer,
dishwasher etc, but not the kettle or toaster etc

>> There is obviously no harm in running from a dedicated circuit, and when
>> wiring a cooker point (without an integral socket), its often quite
>> handy to make the switch control not only a cooker flex outlet, but also
>> a socket in the oven enclosure.
>
> the harm is financial.

There is some argument that having a nice big red switch close to the
cooking appliances to knock the hob and oven off in one easy hit is
handy for you notice flames pouring our of your roast spuds ;-)

[John Rumm]

On 01/03/2012 16:08, Adam Funk wrote:
> On 2012-03-01, John Rumm wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2012 15:09, Adam Funk wrote:
>>> On 2012-02-28, John Rumm wrote:
>>>
>>>> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
>>>> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>>>>
>>>> (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
>>>
>>> I'm not sure it's that simple these days. I've just found one with
>>
>> Well it is quite simple really...
>>
>>> the following in different parts of the specifications:
>>>
>>> "Total load rating 2.85 kW"
>>
>> 2.85 is getting close to the limit for a socketed connection, however it
>> is still just inside (assuming that quoted 2.85kW at 240V). In reality
>> because its a quite diverse load, the average current will be well below
>> the 12.4A that the numbers would suggest.
>

> True when the oven element cycles on& off. I'm not sure how much
> power the grill draws,& what happens if you happen to use the kettle

The grill may be similar to a "single oven", so probably less than 2kW

> & toaster at the same time ... but the fuse has never blown in our
> existing set-up.

Kettle and toaster are unlikely to matter on a 30/32A circuit - they are
not on long enough to cause any significant heating in the circuit.

(the MCB will tolerate 45A pretty much indefinitely, and 50A for 15 mins
or so).

> And I found a Zanussi model where the manufacturer's PDF states "This
> appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main cable" and then
> has this table:
>
> Applicable types of cables for UK only
> Connection via Min. size Cable/flex type Fuse
> Cable/flex
>
> • 13 A socket outlet 2,5 mm2 Three core butyl insulated 13 A min.

Which is tricky since you will have a hard job getting 2.5mm cored flex
into a plug. You also don't need 2.5mm^2 to carry 13A!

> • 13 A spur box
>
> Oven Control Circuit 2,5 mm2 PVC/PVC twin and earth 15 A min.
> 20 A min.
>
> but then a retailer's website says for the same model "Requires
> hardwiring by an electrician Needs to be wired directly in to a cooker
> socket". Are they just over-specifying it to err well on the safe
> side?

Partly... specifying cable CSAs is without also knowing what the circuit
protective device is also a bit vague.

In many cases, where you have say a 7kW hob, then you will need a
dedicated circuit, and at that point you may find it easy to stick the
oven on it as well...

An integrated "cooker" rather than separate oven and hob will always be
over what you could power from a socket.

>> There is obviously no harm in running from a dedicated circuit, and when
>> wiring a cooker point (without an integral socket), its often quite
>> handy to make the switch control not only a cooker flex outlet, but also
>> a socket in the oven enclosure.
>
> I may just give up and get the cooker circuit installed to make
> selection easier and to cover the longer term.

If having an electric hob as well, then yes you will need to. If its say
a gas hob, and electric oven, its not essential unless going for a
particularly powerful double oven...

[John Rumm]

On 01/03/2012 16:11, Adam Funk wrote:
> On 2012-02-29, ARWadsworth wrote:
>
>> John Rumm wrote:
>
>>> As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket,
>>> and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
>>>
>>> (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
>>
>> That is what I find odd about appendix 15 of the regs.
>>
>> I do not consider an oven (>2kW) to be a high continuous load. They heat up
>> very quickly and then they cycle the power. A cold water only washing
>> machine doing a boil wash would be better off on it's own supply than the
>> oven.
>
> How would you do it in your house?

I would stick in a 32A MCB, and a 6mm^2 T&E cable run to a cooker point
(just a switch type), then appropriate flex outlets near where you would
expect connection to oven a hob to be made. That will cope with anything
up to about 15kW of potential cooking appliances!

[ARWadsworth]

John Rumm wrote:
> On 01/03/2012 16:11, Adam Funk wrote:
> > On 2012-02-29, ARWadsworth wrote:
> >
> > > John Rumm wrote:
> >
> > > > As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a
> > > > socket, and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.
> > > >
> > > > (look at the power rating<= 3kW can go on a socket)
> > >
> > > That is what I find odd about appendix 15 of the regs.
> > >
> > > I do not consider an oven (>2kW) to be a high continuous load.
> > > They heat up very quickly and then they cycle the power. A cold
> > > water only washing machine doing a boil wash would be better off
> > > on it's own supply than the oven.
> >
> > How would you do it in your house?
>
> I would stick in a 32A MCB, and a 6mm^2 T&E cable run to a cooker
> point (just a switch type), then appropriate flex outlets near where
> you would expect connection to oven a hob to be made. That will cope
> with anything up to about 15kW of potential cooking appliances!

I have a 10mm T&E to a cooker switch with a socket outlet and the output of
the cooker switch supplies the power for the sparker/ignition on my gas hob.

I am a big fan of cooker switches with socket outlets.

--
Adam

[ARWadsworth]

That does not sould right.

Feel free to post the link.

I expect a 20A radial would do the job.

--
Adam

[ARWadsworth]

> . 13 A socket outlet 2,5 mm2 Three core butyl insulated 13 A
> min. . 13 A spur box

>
> Oven Control Circuit 2,5 mm2 PVC/PVC twin and earth 15 A
> min.
> 20 A min.
>
> but then a retailer's website says for the same model "Requires
> hardwiring by an electrician Needs to be wired directly in to a cooker
> socket". Are they just over-specifying it to err well on the safe
> side?

Terms such as "cooker socket" suggest the retailer is talking testicles.

--
Adam

[Adam Funk]

http://www.johnlewis.com/230588059/Product.aspx?SearchTerm=neff+b14m42

The "cooker point connection" is at the end of the "Product
information" section, and the 2.85 kW is at the end of the "Key
Features" list.

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-03-01, ARWadsworth wrote:

> Adam Funk wrote:

>> And I found a Zanussi model where the manufacturer's PDF states "This
>> appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main cable" and then
>> has this table:
>>
>> Applicable types of cables for UK only
>> Connection via Min. size Cable/flex type Fuse
>> Cable/flex
>>
>> . 13 A socket outlet 2,5 mm2 Three core butyl insulated 13 A
>> min. . 13 A spur box
>>
>> Oven Control Circuit 2,5 mm2 PVC/PVC twin and earth 15 A
>> min.
>> 20 A min.

Here's the source for that; it has rather different European
specifications:

This appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main

cable.
Applicable types of cables for Europe:
• Minimum size Cable/flex: 1,5mm2
• Cable/ flex type: H07 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05
VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F
• Fuse 13 A

http://www.electrolux-ui.com/2011/397/203501EN.pdf

>>
>> but then a retailer's website says for the same model "Requires
>> hardwiring by an electrician Needs to be wired directly in to a cooker
>> socket". Are they just over-specifying it to err well on the safe
>> side?
>
> Terms such as "cooker socket" suggest the retailer is talking testicles.

And here's the source for the round-objects content:

http://www.kitchenscience.co.uk/cooking/ovens/built_in_electric_single_ovens/zanussi_zyb460x_ss.html

[Adam Funk]

That does sound like a sensible approach.

[ARWadsworth]

Adam Funk wrote:
> On 2012-03-01, ARWadsworth wrote:
>
> > Adam Funk wrote:
>
> > > And I found a Zanussi model where the manufacturer's PDF states
> > > "This appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main cable"
> > > and then has this table:
> > >
> > > Applicable types of cables for UK only
> > > Connection via Min. size Cable/flex type
> > > Fuse Cable/flex
> > >
> > > . 13 A socket outlet 2,5 mm2 Three core butyl insulated
> > > 13 A min. . 13 A spur box
> > >
> > > Oven Control Circuit 2,5 mm2 PVC/PVC twin and earth
> > >
> > > 15 A min. 20 A min.
>
> Here's the source for that; it has rather different European
> specifications:
>
> This appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main
> cable.
> Applicable types of cables for Europe:

> . Minimum size Cable/flex: 1,5mm2
> . Cable/ flex type: H07 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05

> VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F

> . Fuse 13 A

>
> http://www.electrolux-ui.com/2011/397/203501EN.pdf
>
> > >
> > > but then a retailer's website says for the same model "Requires
> > > hardwiring by an electrician Needs to be wired directly in to a
> > > cooker socket". Are they just over-specifying it to err well on
> > > the safe side?
> >
> > Terms such as "cooker socket" suggest the retailer is talking
> > testicles.
>
> And here's the source for the round-objects content:
>
> http://www.kitchenscience.co.uk/cooking/ovens/built_in_electric_single_ovens/zanussi_zyb460x_ss.html

http://www.electrolux-ui.com/2011/397/203501EN.pdf are the rules you have
to follow.

Applicable types of cables for Europe:

. Minimum size Cable/flex: 1,5mm²
. Cable/ flex type: H07 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05

VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F

. Fuse 13 A

It's a plug in oven


--
Adam

[Adam Funk]

On 2012-03-01, ARWadsworth wrote:

> http://www.electrolux-ui.com/2011/397/203501EN.pdf are the rules you have
> to follow.
>
> Applicable types of cables for Europe:
> . Minimum size Cable/flex: 1,5mm²
> . Cable/ flex type: H07 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05
> VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F
> . Fuse 13 A
>
> It's a plug in oven

Yes, it is. :-)

I used 2.5 sq.mm flex just to be on the safe side.