John Lewis no longer sell the branded processor but gave us the number
of the original manufaturer ( Cuisineart) . On ringing them they say
that the processor is manufactured in the Far East and shipped directly
to John Lewis and therefore they dont have spares.
Sadly the little plastic thing is the only thing that's broken but
vitally it's part of the power safety gubbins whereby as it's missing
the power doesn't switch on to the unit.
Apart from this the motor and containers and blades are fine. It just
seems such a waste to bin the lot becasue of a small plastic albeit
vital bit that's broken off.
So.... anyone know any suppliers that might hold this sort of thing? -
any ideas?
Many Thanks
Chris
Nothing made of brittle plastic lasts in a kitchen that is actually USED.
Could you glue the broken bit back on? Or fabricate another piece?
--
Frank Erskine
Nobody sell spare parts these days. Nothing is made to be
repairable. Just throw it away and buy another. If it can't br glued
(or taped) it's dead.
We've got this Hinari (?) blender that cost a fiver from Netto a few
years ago (the only time I've ever been in the place). Our Kenwood one
had packed up and I thought that was over rated. That has a plastic
mechanical linkage inside the handle that enables a switch in the base
to only let the motor power up when the lid is on correctly. It
stumped me when I just placed the lid on top without twisting it.
There I was, checking the 3A fuse. When (not if) that linkage breaks
before the rest of it, I will open it up and bypass the safety switch.
Just have to remember to keep my hands out of it before I turn it
on ;-)
Agreed. One our last one, it was the plastic base of the removeable jug,
containing the bearings for the shaft/blades, which cracked. Utter POS,
really. Replacement is all metal (and with a glass jug rather than
plastic).
As a plus, it means I have a motor with reasonable power/size ratio and
speed control now sitting around in the junk box - I've not thought of a
creative use for it yet... :-)
cheers
Jules
> Just have to
> remember to keep my hands out of it before I turn it on ;-)
Yes, because I'm sure people are forever putting their extremities in
blenders and then turning them on and saying "oops" :-) Sounds very much
like a "safety feature" just for the sake of it to me...
I used one of those as a convenient payload to stress test the wings on
a large model aeroplane. Just the right weight really. ;-)
> cheers
>
> Jules
Not deliberately, no. But it stops people doing things like trying to
free jammed blade whilst it is turned on. . Or trying to sue it with the
lid off. and then putting fingers in too far by mistake.
Less likely with a blender - ours doesn't have such an interlock, but
more of a possibility with our food processor which does.
I once managed to stick my finger in the end of a stick blender and then
turn it on for some reason..
--
Chris French
"harry" <harol...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:8ea071b0-ff1f-4a9a...@j8g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
Not true at all. You just need to know where to look ... Just last week, a
friend of mine that owns an electrical sales and parts shop, and makes a
very nice living from the repairs, obtained a replacement function switch
for me, for my bought-from-a-shed range cooker. It was just a case of him
knowing where to cross-reference who made it, and then knowing who was the
parts supplier for that manufacturer.
As to the OP's problem, the little tab that he's talking about, just works a
little lever switch in the body of the blender, to act as a safety
interlock. With a bit of thought and ingenuity, I'm sure that a substitute
for the tab that would fit into the switch gap, could be come up with. If
it's just the tab that's broken, and the plastic that it was attached to is
still intact, then I'm sure that a small hole could be drilled, and a
plastic 'stick' of some description glued in using a decent solvent weld
adhesive such as is used for solvent weld waste pipe etc. Just a case of
applying a bit of lateral thinking.
Arfa
Agreed - as this is a DIY forum, the OP should be able to resolve the
matter either by frigging the mechanics or a sensible bit of
engineering to make the interlock function again.
I can see where the OP is coming from in that his 'better half' is no
doubt putting pressure on him to sort the machine, but really this
should be such a simple repair, or bodge, that it should be second
nature for any DIY attendee here.
Rob
They generally only need a similar dodge to the old golf tee in the earth
technique for using 2 pin plugs in 3 pin sockets.
Less fixable was a plastic grinder attachment which was soon shattered to
pieces - an earlier model with a glass grinder attachment simply rolled onto
the floor so that wasn't any good either. Bought a separate grinder in the
end: wonderful device!
On Hinari: When our Phillips kettle element went, and a new element alone
would have been around £40, we just happened across a Hinari kettle, that
actually looked better and was more powerful, in Matalan for a mere £8. It
is a marvel, and boils water extremely quickly too. One slight niggle -
that probably applies to many modern kettles - is that the sight level tube,
has rather fragile seals top and bottom. The bottom one started leaking a
while back, but it was easy to get at, and swap it with the top one. I have
noticed it has started to weep again lately though, so it looks like I need
to hunt for some more robust grommets or similar. However if other Hinari
stuff is as well made as our kettle I would have no hesitation in buying
more.
S
It's not just for saving your fingers: it's also for stopping you turning
the machine on before you've put the top on. This can be very messy if you
are the sort of person who does not turn things off at the plug, or control
knob between uses - or indeed someone who last time turned it off at the
plug without turning it down at the control knob. The interlock goes up
through the handle of the attachment, and is worked by both the lid and the
base operating together, so, once you bypass it you have to be doubly
careful.
S
You'd be surprised.
This really belongs in the DIY Disaster thread, but ...
As a lad I was keen on doing things in the kitchen, including messing
around with the new Kenwood Chef. I was using it one day and noticed the
mixture had a tendency to ride up the mixing blades, so took a kitchen
knife and scraped it down the blades to shove the mixture down.
<PING!>
The blades caught the knife, snapped it and launched it by my ear'ole to
proing stuck in the kitchen door. Oops.
The mixer only had seven blades after that, not eight.
Doh! I suppose you didn't end up dead, though. I suppose I wish that
safety features that are irritating were optional extras for the basic
model, rather than built-in. Worried about sticking your hand in the
blender when it's on? Buy the safety cut-off switch for an extra 30 quid.
I don't doubt that it happens (as evidenced by your tale), but overall it
seems such a low risk that I'd rather take my chances and not have some
extra doohickey on the device that might end up breaking a little way
down the line.
cheers
Jules
Thanks for the replies - in the end used a kebab stick and some
adhesive to do a repair - not sure how many weeks this will hold for but
I'll just keep repeating the process ... will try to find a metal
replacement for the kebab stick to make it more robust
>I don't doubt that it happens (as evidenced by your tale), but overall it
>seems such a low risk that I'd rather take my chances and not have some
>extra doohickey on the device that might end up breaking a little way
>down the line.
The same kitchen saw the Ginger Beer Episode...