Dado - Best Way To Fix Fill Stain Etc ?
Mark Brook
I have done a few but have always painted them.
I use no nails type adhesive and support it on the underside with small
nails tapped in lightly.
When the adhesive has cured I remove the supporting nails caulk any gaps
on the back where plaster is uneven and paint.
Any bits where the plaster is really uneven I bang in a few masonry
nails (not fully) to hold the dado back and when the adhesive has gone
off I remove the nails, fill with interior filler (not caulk) rub down
and paint.
But what would I do if I wanted to stain & varnish the dado ?
I suppose I could secure it to the wall & fill the screw holes with
plastic wood type filler, but how does this stuff stain compared to the
wood ? does it show ?. If he puts too many screws in the dado it will
probably look wavy as it will follow the contours of the wall too
closely.
If he uses the adhesive method what should he use to fill the big gaps
between the back of the dado & the plaster ?
One last thing how does he find the angle to cut the dado when running
round corners. I can't remember how I did it though I do remember having
a protractor or similar thing out the last time I did this job and
feeling very pleased that I needed virtually no filler in the gaps.
I think I borrowed something from someone but I just can't remember
what.
--
Mark Brook
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
<Ma...@bomeng.demon.co.uk> writes
>A Friend rang last night and asked me the best way to fix his dado rail.
>
>I have done a few but have always painted them.
>
>I use no nails type adhesive and support it on the underside with small
>nails tapped in lightly.
>
>When the adhesive has cured I remove the supporting nails caulk any gaps
>on the back where plaster is uneven and paint.
>
>Any bits where the plaster is really uneven I bang in a few masonry
>nails (not fully) to hold the dado back and when the adhesive has gone
>off I remove the nails, fill with interior filler (not caulk) rub down
>and paint.
>
>But what would I do if I wanted to stain & varnish the dado ?
Treat it like a floor. See the Floor Cleaning Notes on the uk.diy web
site - address below.
--
Charles (Joe) Stahelin, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK.
For the uk.d-i-y FAQ, goto http://pages.eidosnet.co.uk/~ukdiy/index.html
Stuart Noble
I'd glue and pin it at the high spots i.e. where the dado touches the wall,
then backfill with filler/plaster. Gaps behind don't matter as long as it's
straight.
45 deg on a mitre box for the corners.
Mark Brook
<Ma...@bomeng.demon.co.uk> writes
>A Friend rang last night and asked me the best way to fix his dado rail.
>
1. What is the best wood filler to use (the least likely to show
through) when staining & varnishing ?
2. How do you measure the angle when cutting the dado round corners,
bearing in mind very few are exactly 90 degrees.
--
Mark Brook
Nick Nelson
> 1. What is the best wood filler to use (the least likely to show
> through) when staining & varnishing ?
Most wood fillers will take stain and varnish, but all will respond
differently than the wood surrounding them. So far as I know the only
way to get this right is by experiment on scrap bits of the timber.
You may have to mix and or dilute different colours if the stain to
get an even appearance.
> 2. How do you measure the angle when cutting the dado round corners,
> bearing in mind very few are exactly 90 degrees.
For internal corners, don't bother it is easier to scribe the join
ie one length butts against the wall and the other has its end
prifiled to fit against the first piece.
For external corners I'd use a sliding bevel to get the angle and then
halve that to set the angle on the mitre saw.
Actually, I'd cut them all as if they were 90 degrees and adjust as
necessary by sanding/filling as necessary ;-)
Nick.
Dave Liquorice
> 1. What is the best wood filler to use (the least likely to show
> through) when staining & varnishing ?
For small amounts PVA and sawdust obtained from the wood you are filling.
The PVA dries more or less clear and the sawdust then shows through with the
correct colour.
> 2. How do you measure the angle when cutting the dado round corners,
> bearing in mind very few are exactly 90 degrees.
But probably close enough. Cut one a 45 and then the other to fit.
--
Cheers new...@nexus.demon.co.uk
Dave. Remove "spam" for valid email.
Paul Mc Cann
<nyyfbegfarkhfqrzbap...@snail.howhill.network>,
new...@nexus.demon.co.uk says...
> On Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:25:49 +0100, Mark Brook wrote:
>
> > 1. What is the best wood filler to use (the least likely to show
> > through) when staining & varnishing ?
>
> For small amounts PVA and sawdust obtained from the wood you are filling.
> The PVA dries more or less clear and the sawdust then shows through with the
> correct colour.
>
> > 2. How do you measure the angle when cutting the dado round corners,
> > bearing in mind very few are exactly 90 degrees.
>
> But probably close enough. Cut one a 45 and then the other to fit.
>
>
tenon saw. Cut both ends to 45 and but them as tight as possible in situ.
Then using a fine tooth saw cut through the joint. Closing up the 2mm gap
left by the saw gives perfection, if you are that fussy.
Always remember that only you know where the blunders are, and initially
they will scream out at you. No one else will notice them (except your
wife of course, but then she is biased.) Indeed after a few years have
passed you will be amazed how well it looks when even you have forgotten
where the boo boos are.
--
Paul Mc Cann
Those disputing, contradicting, and confuting people are generally
unfortunate in their affairs.They get victory, sometimes, but they never
get good will, which would be of more use to them."
- Benjamin Franklin
piers_t...@my-deja.com
Mark Brook <Ma...@bomeng.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> 1. What is the best wood filler to use (the least likely to show
> through) when staining & varnishing ?
For a perfect result I would try counterboring the screw hole and then
plugging it with a plug cut from the same type of wood. Tools for
couterboring and plug cutters are available from Screwfix, Axminster
etc. I haven't tried this but I imagine that with careful alignment of
the grain the plug would be almost invisible when pared off & sanded
flat.
>
> 2. How do you measure the angle when cutting the dado round corners,
> bearing in mind very few are exactly 90 degrees.
Buggered if I know. That's why there are no unpainted skirting boards
in my house!
Piers
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
DaveP
the wall and contour the other to butt up to the first.
The best way to get your contour is to cut a 45 deg angle on the piece to be
contoured (so that the face has the shorter length) and use a fine saw to
follow you have created.
Dave Liquorice <new...@nexus.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:nyyfbegfarkhfqrzbap...@snail.howhill.network...
> On Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:25:49 +0100, Mark Brook wrote:
Mark Brook
<Ma...@bomeng.demon.co.uk> writes
>A Friend rang last night and asked me the best way to fix his dado rail.
>
forget the dado & put some border paper up instead.
She realised that it was far from a 2 minute job to fix, fill, stain &
varnish etc.
I think he can do the border OK, but you never know, I may be back !
(sounds a bit like Arnie).
Thanks to all.
--
Mark Brook