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ACL-Drayton mid-position valve
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Reentrant
Apr 4, 2012, 5:03:16 AM4/4/12
to
Our CH has an original (1996-ish) ACL-Drayton Lifestyle mid-position
valve p/n 679H340-30LO, which, unlike later ones, does not have a
click-off actuator head.
The head has now failed.
I'd rather not drain down and remove the pipework to replace the 22mm
tee + head, so I'm tempted to force the head off one way or another and
try to fit a newer-style head which is available separately.
Has anyone tried this?
--
Reentrant
valve p/n 679H340-30LO, which, unlike later ones, does not have a
click-off actuator head.
The head has now failed.
I'd rather not drain down and remove the pipework to replace the 22mm
tee + head, so I'm tempted to force the head off one way or another and
try to fit a newer-style head which is available separately.
Has anyone tried this?
--
Reentrant
Reentrant
Apr 4, 2012, 12:26:12 PM4/4/12
to
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=104969
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Reentrant
Stephen H
Apr 4, 2012, 12:33:44 PM4/4/12
to
On 04/04/2012 10:03, Reentrant wrote:
without the removable actuator, it IS possible to completely disassemble
it as follows;
TURN OFF ALL POWER TO THE CENTRAL HEATING IF YOUR NOT SURE HOW TO DO
THIS YOU SHOULD NOT READ ANY FURTHER. CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
1. Undo the screw and take off the cover.
2. to remove the motor there are two screws, ones probably hiding behind
the orange wires. remove the screws and pull the motor away from the
body with the earth plate and heatsink/cover then carefully unplug the
connectors from the circuit board. If you need to replace the motor just
plug and screw in your new one.
3. to remove the circuit board, slide off the white cover, and undo the
two small screws that go through the micro switches. You can now remove
the circuit board. (If you havent already you'll also need to remove the
cable clip).
4. if you want to go any further, (I didnt), you can remove the actuator
bits and springs and there are two screws to remove the actuator body
from the valve body. And thats pretty much it.
I replaced the valve motor with one from screw fix and had the exact
same problem. So I took the circuit board out to see if anything had
burned out. And discovered that both micro switches were faulty.
They both had very dirty contacts and one of them had a bent contact
causing it to arc when energised. I cleaned them both up resoldered them
to the circuit board plugged it all back together and its all working again.
RustyCrampon
Apr 4, 2012, 12:39:00 PM4/4/12
to
I tried to repair it, but it was still unreliable. In the end I replaced
the entire assembly, which was surprisingly easy, even with the partial
drain down. I say replace the whole thing.
geoff
Apr 4, 2012, 6:38:30 PM4/4/12
to
In message <9u2h2f...@mid.individual.net>, Reentrant
<nos...@nospam.invalid> writes
>and try to fit a newer-style head which is available separately.
>
>Has anyone tried this?
Many people have
>
--
geoff
<nos...@nospam.invalid> writes
>Our CH has an original (1996-ish) ACL-Drayton Lifestyle mid-position
>valve p/n 679H340-30LO, which, unlike later ones, does not have a
>click-off actuator head.
>
>The head has now failed.
>
>I'd rather not drain down and remove the pipework to replace the 22mm
>tee + head, so I'm tempted to force the head off one way or another
They do not need forcing,
>valve p/n 679H340-30LO, which, unlike later ones, does not have a
>click-off actuator head.
>
>The head has now failed.
>
>I'd rather not drain down and remove the pipework to replace the 22mm
>tee + head, so I'm tempted to force the head off one way or another
>and try to fit a newer-style head which is available separately.
>
>Has anyone tried this?
>
--
geoff
geoff
Apr 4, 2012, 6:42:11 PM4/4/12
to
In message <9u3b0v...@mid.individual.net>, Reentrant
<nos...@nospam.invalid> writes
--
geoff
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