How to cut a "nice" hole in an engineered wood floor
Tim Downie
have to get access to a pipe joint that has been rattled rather loose by a
water hammer (now fixed). It was in the process of sorting the water hammer
that I found that the pipe joint in question is relatively loose (i.e. I can
swivel the pipe fairly easily) but it's not directly accessible.
I suspect at some point I'll just have to bit the bullet and cut an access
hatch but being a wooden floor, I can't hide the hatch under the carpet.
Any tips on how best to do this short of relaying a large section of
flooring? I'm not sure whether it will be possible to get more matching
flooring for any repairs.
Tim
Nitro®
"Tim Downie" <timdow...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hujc2f$ecv$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Some sort of brass port hole, could make a feature?
--
The man who smiles when things go wrong has
thought of someone to blame it on.
Bob Eager
Yes, that was my immediate thought. If rectangular, similar kind of brass
trim.
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
Phil L
How much space is underneath the floor? - can't the hatch go under the
stairs or in some other inconspicuous place?
--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008
dennis@home
"Tim Downie" <timdow...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hujc2f$ecv$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
> I suspect at some point I'll just have to bit the bullet and cut an access
> hatch but being a wooden floor, I can't hide the hatch under the carpet.
> Any tips on how best to do this short of relaying a large section of
> flooring? I'm not sure whether it will be possible to get more matching
> flooring for any repairs.
If its a floating floor that isn't nailed down you could just take it up
strip by strip.
>
> Tim
d...@gglz.com
There's various access-hole systems out there. I haven't tried any of
them, but here's an example:
Tim Watts
I'll go with the brass idea. Cut out the panel (Fein type tool would do
this without issue but there are other ways).
Easy: brass angle round the hole and the hatch - screwed or glued at the
edges. Mitre the corners.
Harder: same thing but rebate both so the brass is flush. If you were
really lucky, you might be able to get brass U section round the hatch
which would help hold it togther if it spanned more than one strip.
--
Tim Watts
Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.
John Stumbles
> I suspect at some point I'll just have to bit the bullet and cut an access
> hatch but being a wooden floor, I can't hide the hatch under the carpet.
> Any tips on how best to do this short of relaying a large section of
> flooring? I'm not sure whether it will be possible to get more matching
> flooring for any repairs.
Assuming it's strips with a plank-like finish I'd consider using a
multitool to make very narrow cuts across a strip and to cut the tongues
locking the cut section of strip to its neighbours so you can remove a
small rectangle.
There are various ways I might think of arranging to hold the cut section
in place when you re-fit it.
--
John Stumbles
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.
Adam Aglionby
If its real floor boards, cut a single section of board out and use
something neater than featherspitter to take tongue off, support board
back in place with dwangs put in between joists.
If its some sort of engineered finish, floor box lid, these people are
at the top end
http://www.cableductuk.com/700series_photos.html
Cheers
Adam
Adam Aglionby
Thinking a bit more , and looking at this pic
http://www.prosoundweb.com/images/uploads/HPBConsoleFloorPocketCombo.jpg
More thinking bit of steel plate , some hot melt glue and some magnets
like the tile hatch things.
Cheers
Adam