Galvanised watering can repair

[SRT]

Hi,
As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old
(birthday present) :)
Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it to
rock around ( maybe frost?)
so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
welding around the base:(
Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
Thanks.
Stuart.

[The Natural Philosopher]

plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux.

[MM]

Exactly the same thing happened to mine, also galvanised, bought at
ASDA. I used a hot glue gun to force glue into the join. That was five
years ago and it's started to leak a bit again, so I'll just give it
the same treatment.

MM

[MM]

Will that "stick" to the *galvanised* can, though?

MM

[Harry Bloomfield]

The Natural Philosopher expressed precisely :

That will not 'take' on a galv finish. I don't think they even solder
them when new - I think they just fold the base/sides together, then
rely on the galv dip to provide the final seal.

I would be inclined to suggest running some paint around the inside
lip, hoping it were thin enough to make its way into the leak point and
seal it.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

[TMC]

"MM" <kyli...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:0fe0r69dl89j84r4h...@4ax.com...

> On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 13:33:44 +0100, "SRT" <s...@sky.com> wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years old
>>(birthday present) :)
>>Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing it
>>to
>>rock around ( maybe frost?)
>>so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
>>welding around the base:(
>>Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
>>Thanks.
>>Stuart.
>

> A bead of butyl sealant around the joint from the inside

[SRT]

"TMC" wrote in message news:Ifednc_6GMag3i3Q...@bt.com...

Thanks for the replies folks:)
That's me sorted for a bit this weekend - - -maybe I wont have to do much in
garden now - - - - fat chance:)

[Roger Cain]

"SRT" <s...@sky.com> wrote in message news:91amh2...@mid.individual.net...

> Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?

In the dark ages the fix was to take 2 steel washers, 2 rubber washers,
drill through the crack and bolt washers either side to make the seal. Don't
know whether they still sell a "kit of parts" but these bits are easy enough
to find in garage junk boxes.

[Andy Dingley]

On Apr 21, 4:25 pm, "Roger Cain" <rogernosp...@rcain.nospamplus.com>
wrote:

> In the dark ages the fix was to take 2 steel washers, 2 rubber washers,
> drill through the crack and bolt washers either side to make the seal.

Good fix for rust pinholes, but it won't work near a non-flat seam.

I'd dry it out well (maybe on the stove a bit) then paint the inside
with some bitumen black paint (cheap from Screwfix, dead handy). Two
coats should seal any crimped joints that have sprung open.

[The Natural Philosopher]

absolutely.

its only zinc, and that solders well.

> MM

[The Natural Philosopher]

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
> The Natural Philosopher expressed precisely :
>> SRT wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>> As in header. I have a Haws traditional can that's just about 2 years
>>> old (birthday present) :)
>>> Unfortunately I noticed the centre of the base had pushed out causing
>>> it to rock around ( maybe frost?)
>>> so I tapped it back into line and now see a slight weep/leak from the
>>> welding around the base:(
>>> Any ideas as to best way if any to repair?
>>> Thanks.
>>> Stuart.
>>
>> plumbers solder and blowlamp/plumbers flux.
>
> That will not 'take' on a galv finish.

it will with an agressive flux.

[amorto...@gmail.com]

Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and outside?

[tabb...@gmail.com]

There's silicone. Or epoxy.


NT

[Rob Morley]

On Tue, 10 Apr 2018 15:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
amorto...@gmail.com wrote:

> Mine is a Haws too and it's a favourite as has a long spout. The
> frost also got mine and it is leaking all round the base. I wonder
> if there is any 'rubber' type paint one could do on the inside and
> outside?

You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
steel.

[FMurtz]

POR15 but may cost more than the can.

[Brian Gaff]

2011, I'm still looking for this time machine.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"FMurtz" <hag...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:PKfzC.19987$1X2....@fx27.iad...

[Thomas Prufer]

On Wed, 11 Apr 2018 03:25:08 +0100, Rob Morley <nos...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>You can get special low temperature solder that works on galvanised
>steel.

Aside from the fact that the original can leaked in 2011: regular tin/lead or
tin solder will work on galvanised steel, also on sheet zinc. Just don't
overheat, i.e. an electric iron is better than a blowlamp (which may burn off
the zinc, or melt a hole in sheet zinc). Zinc chloride is a good flux, used to
known as "killed spirits of salt".


Thomas Prufer

[tabb...@gmail.com]

The question was asked 21 hours ago. Tin/lead solder will work in the sense that it goes on, if the workpiece is got spotless, which may be a challenge. But it has near zero strength.


NT

[Andrew Mawson]

wrote in message
news:7a22a036-b87e-4646...@googlegroups.com...

CLEAN galvanised steel solders very nicely using the new 'lead free'
solder - in fact it's about the only thing I've found that it is useful for
! I bend up small boxes and fitting from 1.2 mm 'Zintec' sheet and fillet
all the corners with this stuff. Take a time getting used to the longer
liquidus but the results are very good given practice.

Andrew

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Wednesday, 11 April 2018 21:52:28 UTC+1, Andrew Mawson wrote:
> NT wrote in message

epoxy would be stronger


NT