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Cutting floorboards - cheap reciprocating saw?

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David WE Roberts

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Oct 12, 2012, 4:27:16 AM10/12/12
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The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both use
reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the joist to
allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as you do when
you cut alongside the joist).

We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and fitting
insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.

So will the cheap (£50-£60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.

Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
including coping with hitting the occasional nail?

Cheers

Dave R

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

mike

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Oct 12, 2012, 5:13:14 AM10/12/12
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It depends how heavy you are.

I have a cheapie and when my 16 stone mate uses it, it works fine.
But I'm 10 stone and when the blade jams, it's me that goes backwards
and forwards.

So I wouldn't use it in any situation where I wanted a neat result.
Depending on the amount of boards you have to lift, I'd use a Fein
clone.

Your mileage - and body mass - may vary.

Dave Plowman (News)

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Oct 12, 2012, 5:41:15 AM10/12/12
to
In article <adq2ka...@mid.individual.net>,
David WE Roberts <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
> you do when you cut alongside the joist).

> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.

> So will the cheap (�50-�60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.

> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?

I use a jigsaw with the blade snapped off to the depth of the floorboard.
You start with the blade near horizontal and pivot the tool into the work
- most base plates have a curved front to make this easy. With care and a
firm but steady hand you can start the cut in the middle of the board and
go to the edge. Then turn round and go to the other edge. As regards
hitting a nail - you can usually see them and go round it. But these
blades are cheap enough anyway.

--
*Can fat people go skinny-dipping?

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

stuart noble

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Oct 12, 2012, 6:01:10 AM10/12/12
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I'm sure the Fein type tool is ideal for this, if only because the blade
is so thin. A wide kerf is bad news for bare boards, or even if you're
carpeting. I wonder how long it takes though. What does ARW use? A
chainsaw? :-)
The jigsaw cut has never worked for me, and only results in the
shortened blade thudding against the board from a dizzy height. Maybe it
depends on the length of the stroke.

Dave Plowman (News)

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Oct 12, 2012, 6:17:05 AM10/12/12
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In article <FTRds.285944$PU2....@fx23.am4>,
stuart noble <stuart...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> The jigsaw cut has never worked for me, and only results in the
> shortened blade thudding against the board from a dizzy height. Maybe it
> depends on the length of the stroke.

You need to snap the blade so there is a tooth at the bottom - or do a bit
of grinding after snapping. And enter it to the work carefully. Oh -
and don't use a pendulum action.

--
*Honk if you love peace and quiet.

David WE Roberts

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Oct 12, 2012, 6:24:36 AM10/12/12
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"David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:adq2ka...@mid.individual.net...
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both use
> reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the joist to
> allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as you do when
> you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap (�50-�60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?


Oh, and this currently looks good value
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb373rsp-1100w-reciprocating-saw-240v/80388#product_additional_details_container
anyone got/tried one of these?

F Murtz

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:04:31 AM10/12/12
to
David WE Roberts wrote:
>
> "David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:adq2ka...@mid.individual.net...
>> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
>> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
>> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
>> you do when you cut alongside the joist).
>>
>> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
>> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>>
>> So will the cheap (£50-£60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
>> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth
>> alt least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>>
>> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
>> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
>
> Oh, and this currently looks good value
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb373rsp-1100w-reciprocating-saw-240v/80388#product_additional_details_container
>
> anyone got/tried one of these?
>

you can use a multifunction tool but it is slow going.

F Murtz

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:05:43 AM10/12/12
to
PS apparently your aldi's have them soon.

AlanD

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:05:26 AM10/12/12
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> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?

Fein Multimaster (or a clone).
I have used the Fein and a Bosch copy, I found the Fein much better to
use. YMMV.

stuart noble

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:09:57 AM10/12/12
to
On 12/10/2012 11:24, David WE Roberts wrote:
>
> "David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:adq2ka...@mid.individual.net...
>> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
>> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
>> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
>> you do when you cut alongside the joist).
>>
>> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
>> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>>
>> So will the cheap (£50-£60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
>> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth
>> alt least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>>
>> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
>> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
>
> Oh, and this currently looks good value
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb373rsp-1100w-reciprocating-saw-240v/80388#product_additional_details_container
>
> anyone got/tried one of these?
>

Interesting extract from the manual

=====================================================
If you need to reduce the cutting capacity of your
tool (depth of cut), the pivoting foot plate (2) may be
adjusted as follows. Loosen the two securing screws
(A) on the underside of the front housing with the
spanner (8) provided. Slide the pivoting blade foot (2)
to the required position. Tighten both screws (A) and
check that the blade foot (2) is firmly latched. (see
Fig.3)

PeterC

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:15:32 AM10/12/12
to
On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 09:27:16 +0100, David WE Roberts wrote:

> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both use
> reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the joist to
> allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as you do when
> you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and fitting
> insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap (£50-£60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave R

As in another thread: Fein clone at Aldi on 18th. - get there early or
they'll be gone! I missed them last time and ended up suffering the
indignity of a Bosch Pro instead ;-)

By far the best thing I've ever used for floor boards and, if used
carefully, v. low chance of hitting a pipe or cable.

I cut the tongue each side of each joist, slide a knife blade along to find
the joist and mark both sides then try to cut in the middle of the marks but
missing the nails (ideally, leaving the nails in the bit that doesn't need
to come up but...)
The semi-circular blade for the Bosch has a depth that's within a gnatscock
of the thickness of my boards - YFMV.
It can be angled to cut vertically adjacent to the other boards alongside.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

John Rumm

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:20:45 AM10/12/12
to
On 12/10/2012 09:27, David WE Roberts wrote:
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
> you do when you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap (£50-£60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?

This is probably one of those cases where for trade use in someone
else's place, speed may be of more importance than finish. Hence big
saws to get boards up fast. For domestic use where you will not be doing
it every day, the multimaster approach has more finesse. The thin kerf
takes out very little material, and the ability to stick a cut through
at a 45 degree bevel mean that in some cases you can even cut over a
void, but restore most of the strength without a nogging simply by
shuffling the cut bit up a couple of mm.





--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

Tim Lamb

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:26:43 AM10/12/12
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In message <715c7$507807a0$52130f1c$13...@usenext.xennanews.com>, AlanD
<alz_...@nospam.ajdeane.co.uk> writes
I have the Bosch and can't say I am hugely impressed. Plunge cut in wood
for example... the blade remains stationary and the tool vibrates!
>

--
Tim Lamb

Steve Firth

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:45:01 AM10/12/12
to
"David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:
[snip]

> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?

Best tools for the job IMO are a floorboard handsaw or a Fein multi tool or
clone. Get yourself to Aldi next Thursday? If you use the bimetallic multi
tool blades the will go through nails.

--
<•DarWin><|
_/ _/

harry

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Oct 12, 2012, 9:01:31 AM10/12/12
to
On Oct 12, 9:27 am, "David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both use
> reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the joist to
> allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as you do when
> you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and fitting
> insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap ( 50- 60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
> Cheers


If you are cutting lots in a continuous cut, a circular saw set to the
board thickness is quick. But you have to finish the cut with a jigsaw
to avoid running on to the next board.

Virtually impossible to take up floorboards over the big area without
damaging the tongues and grooves. If it is a big area, better to take
up and replace with chipboard.
Much quicker too. Remember to leave access traps to get at whatever
when you do the job.

You get lots of draught potential in all the cracks between
floorboards. Especially if you've ripped them up & put back.

newshound

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Oct 12, 2012, 9:55:51 AM10/12/12
to
On 12/10/2012 09:27, David WE Roberts wrote:
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
> you do when you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap (�50-�60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave R
>
If you have only got a few to do, I would go for a floorboard saw: a
sort of small panel saw with a rounded end, and teeth around the curve.
One merit over any power tool other than a Fein (apart from delicacy) is
that you can cut very close to a skirting board.

The Fein works but is very slow.

The other tool I use is a circular saw set to floorboard depth, after
taking suitable care to be sure there are no nails or screws in the way.
I find the best way to locate floorboard nails in old floorboards is
with a small rare earth magnet.

--
For every complex problem, there is a solution which is simple, neat,
and wrong.
H L Menken

Reentrant

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:10:32 AM10/12/12
to
On 12/10/2012 14:01, harry wrote:

> Virtually impossible to take up floorboards over the big area without
> damaging the tongues and grooves. If it is a big area, better to take
> up and replace with chipboard.

Is today's flooring-grade chipboard the same thickness as our 1970's
floorboards though?

Even if you feathered the higher edge and used good underlay you might
get a shadow line if it's more than a few mm.


--
Reentrant

george - dicegeorge

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:25:54 AM10/12/12
to
On 12/10/12 09:27, David WE Roberts wrote:
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
> you do when you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap (�50-�60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave R
>
http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/offers_week42Thursday12.htm
is the fein clone.

There are floorboard screws which have a second thread to tighten the
floorboard and not squeak.

[g]

F Murtz

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:38:20 AM10/12/12
to
I got one of these to check used timber for nails before machining.

Steve Firth

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:39:26 AM10/12/12
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Only a moron would consider ripping up T&G and replacing it with chipboard.
And a moron has considered and advised it.

--
<•DarWin><|
_/ _/

F Murtz

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Oct 12, 2012, 10:46:25 AM10/12/12
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The Medway Handyman

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Oct 12, 2012, 1:21:48 PM10/12/12
to
On 12/10/2012 11:24, David WE Roberts wrote:
>
> "David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:adq2ka...@mid.individual.net...
>> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both
>> use reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the
>> joist to allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as
>> you do when you cut alongside the joist).
>>
>> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
>> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>>
>> So will the cheap (�50-�60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
>> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth
>> alt least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>>
>> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
>> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
>
> Oh, and this currently looks good value
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb373rsp-1100w-reciprocating-saw-240v/80388#product_additional_details_container
>
> anyone got/tried one of these?
>

You just want a new power tool don't you :-)

Admit it, you are amongst friends :-)

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

David WE Roberts

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Oct 12, 2012, 4:09:06 PM10/12/12
to

"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:LkYds.198234$hg4.1...@fx04.am4...
Well, yes - I am suffering from reciprocating saw temptation.
However I am having multi-tool temptation waved at me from all directions as
well.

Just been told there may be a large stock of pallets going free.
I am now wondering of a reciprocating saw would be the thing to chop them up
for firewood or if I'm still trying to justify a new toy. :-)

Cheers

Dave R

ARW

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Oct 12, 2012, 4:18:50 PM10/12/12
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I use what I can.

I do like

http://www.stanleytools.co.uk/product/147294?rp=2



> The jigsaw cut has never worked for me, and only results in the
> shortened blade thudding against the board from a dizzy height. Maybe
> it depends on the length of the stroke.


Or I just use a jigsaw:-)


--
Adam


Jeremy Nicoll - news posts

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Oct 12, 2012, 4:45:25 PM10/12/12
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"David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:

> Just been told there may be a large stock of pallets going free. I am now
> wondering of a reciprocating saw would be the thing to chop them up for
> firewood or if I'm still trying to justify a new toy. :-)

The multitool reciprocating saws are meant for small jobs in fiddly places,
eg where you want to get the saw blade right up against a wall, so far as
I'm aware.

Chopping up pallets for firewood needs something more like a small chainsaw
or alligator saw, I would think.

--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.

Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply
to newsre...@wingsandbeaks.org.uk replacing "aaa" by "284".

mike

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Oct 12, 2012, 5:15:51 PM10/12/12
to
On Oct 12, 9:09 pm, "David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:

> Just been told there may be a large stock of pallets going free.
> I am now wondering of a reciprocating saw would be the thing to chop them up
> for firewood or if I'm still trying to justify a new toy. :-)

Cheap / old circular saw for pallets.

Bill Wright

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Oct 12, 2012, 5:26:09 PM10/12/12
to
David WE Roberts wrote:

>>>> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
>>>> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
If you are only doing a few an angle grinder with a very thin disk works OK.
Alternatively you can modify a jigsaw blade so it is exactly the right
length. Cut the end across at an angle so the thing digs in v. slightly
rather than bashes the joist. Use the saw on a slow setting. You can cut
a jigsaw blade with an angle grinder that has a very thin disk...
You might find it easier to plane two lengths of wood to exactly the
right thickness and run the jigsaw along them. Then you don't need to
shorten the blade.


> Well, yes - I am suffering from reciprocating saw temptation.
> However I am having multi-tool temptation waved at me from all
> directions as well.
Multitools are absolute shite for floorboards. Much too slow.
>
> Just been told there may be a large stock of pallets going free.
> I am now wondering of a reciprocating saw would be the thing to chop
> them up for firewood.
That works well. But get a recip saw anyway. They're always handy.

Bill

John Rumm

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Oct 12, 2012, 5:47:56 PM10/12/12
to
I think one of these would be really nice for plumbing in those
situations where you can't get a pipe slice in:

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gsa10.8v-lin-10.8v-li-ion-cordless-sabre-reciprocating-saw-body-only-p15156

Dave Plowman (News)

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Oct 12, 2012, 6:42:04 PM10/12/12
to
In article <k5a1tg$57k$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,
Bill, this must mean peace on earth and the end of poverty and starvation.
I'm in complete agreement with you. ;-)

--
*If I throw a stick, will you leave?

Bill Wright

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Oct 12, 2012, 8:51:33 PM10/12/12
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> Bill, this must mean peace on earth and the end of poverty and starvation.
> I'm in complete agreement with you. ;-)

I can't believe the uses I find for mine.

Bill

Dave Plowman (News)

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Oct 13, 2012, 5:29:37 AM10/13/12
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In article <k5adup$svs$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,
Quite. I can understand a pro being more economical with power tool choice
since he wouldn't want to carry lots around if not essential. But in my
case at home - where I have all the ones mentioned in this thread and more
- my first choice for cutting a floorboard is the jigsaw. However, if it
were on an exposed floor where a perfect cut was needed, because it was
going to show afterwards, I'd likely go for something else. Preferably not
cut the board at all if possible.

I do have a reciprocating saw - a mains Makita - and it hardly ever comes
out of the case. Apart from the odd clearance issue, there's not much it
can do that a jigsaw can't. And the jigsaw is smaller and more wieldy.

--
*Two wrongs are only the beginning *

Fred

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Oct 14, 2012, 6:11:45 AM10/14/12
to
On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:55:51 +0100, newshound
<news...@fairadsl.co.uk> wrote:

>If you have only got a few to do, I would go for a floorboard saw: a
>sort of small panel saw with a rounded end, and teeth around the curve.
>One merit over any power tool other than a Fein (apart from delicacy) is
>that you can cut very close to a skirting board.

How are you supposed to use one of these? I bought one but it didn't
come with any instructions. What I have done, rightly or wrongly, is
use the saw "upside down": using the rounded nose to cut into the
floorboard. It has always worked for me, though I wonder if I am doing
it right or if there is a better way?

I have tried the snapped off jigsaw but found that it just bounced
around everywhere. One thing with using a jigsaw or circular saw is
that you need to know how thick the boards are before you begin.

So then, like the OP, I bought a reciprocating saw, just a cheap one
from Aldi IIRC. If you get the angle of the blade wrong, that can
bounce like the jigsaw too, to but most of the time it is fine and
much quicker than doing it by hand.

I have since bought a multi tool, again a budget Lidl model, and
cutting floorboards was one of the main excuses to buy it. I have not
done so yet. People say it will be slower but you can get wider (60mm
ish) blades from ebay, which might speed things up a bit?

HTH

stuart noble

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Oct 14, 2012, 7:01:12 AM10/14/12
to
I'd almost rather use a router against a straightedge and settle for a
3mm kerf. Certainly fast and neat, and the straight cutters are cheap
enough if you hit a nail

polygonum

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Oct 14, 2012, 7:10:09 AM10/14/12
to
If you are going to use a router, there is an argument in favour of
creating a lip/step rather than straight through. That is what things
like the Trend floor hole cutter thingy does.

Couldn't help wondering what happens to the price of straight cutters if
you don't hit a nail. Do they suddenly go up in price? :-)

--
Rod

Dave Plowman (News)

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Oct 14, 2012, 7:46:15 AM10/14/12
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In article <d53l785utp5tjitvd...@4ax.com>,
Fred <fr...@no-email.here.invalid> wrote:
> I have tried the snapped off jigsaw but found that it just bounced
> around everywhere.

You need to grind the blade so it is more like the original end if it
doesn't snap in the correct place. And bring the blade to the work slowly
but firmly. It does need a bit of practice (and courage ;-)) to develop
the technique, but once mastered is far quicker than any other way.

--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?

John Rumm

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Oct 14, 2012, 11:11:46 AM10/14/12
to
On 14/10/2012 11:11, Fred wrote:
> On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:55:51 +0100, newshound
> <news...@fairadsl.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> If you have only got a few to do, I would go for a floorboard saw: a
>> sort of small panel saw with a rounded end, and teeth around the curve.
>> One merit over any power tool other than a Fein (apart from delicacy) is
>> that you can cut very close to a skirting board.
>
> How are you supposed to use one of these? I bought one but it didn't

I find the normal MO is to reach into the toolbox, slash your hand on
the curvy bit, and then seep claret all over the place ;-)

> come with any instructions. What I have done, rightly or wrongly, is
> use the saw "upside down": using the rounded nose to cut into the
> floorboard. It has always worked for me, though I wonder if I am doing
> it right or if there is a better way?

I think that is the idea...

> I have tried the snapped off jigsaw but found that it just bounced
> around everywhere. One thing with using a jigsaw or circular saw is
> that you need to know how thick the boards are before you begin.
>
> So then, like the OP, I bought a reciprocating saw, just a cheap one
> from Aldi IIRC. If you get the angle of the blade wrong, that can
> bounce like the jigsaw too, to but most of the time it is fine and
> much quicker than doing it by hand.
>
> I have since bought a multi tool, again a budget Lidl model, and
> cutting floorboards was one of the main excuses to buy it. I have not
> done so yet. People say it will be slower but you can get wider (60mm
> ish) blades from ebay, which might speed things up a bit?

I tend to use the narrow blades, and just do either 3 or 4 plunge cuts
side by side, or you can plunge in at a tilt and then do a travelling
cut if you want. Its reasonably quick. Doing it with the round "segment
saw" is a bit slower though IME.

GMM

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Oct 14, 2012, 12:43:04 PM10/14/12
to
On Friday, October 12, 2012 9:27:56 AM UTC+1, David WE Roberts wrote:
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both use
>
> reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the joist to
>
> allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as you do when
>
> you cut alongside the joist).
>
>
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and fitting
>
> insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
>
>
> So will the cheap (�50-�60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
>
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
>
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
>
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
>
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Dave R
>
>
>
> --
>
> No plan survives contact with the enemy.
>
> [Not even bunny]
>
>
>
> Helmuth von Moltke the Elder
>
>
>
> (\__/)
>
> (='.'=)
>
> (")_(")

If I was doing a few, the multitool is definitely the way to go. It takes a while as you have to do a few
plunge cuts to get across a board but you lose less in the kerf for when it goes back. I cut a couple of
boards with my Bosch while my brother was watching and he went straight out and bought one for
himself.

If you want to go straight along a joist across many boards (where you will definitely hit a nail
somewhere) then probably a circular saw set to the right depth is the thing to use, with a TCT blade. I
saw that Screwfix are doing the evolution rage at half price just now, which for 50 quid looks a good
buy (or you can get their blades to fit an existing saw).

Not entirely convinced I'd want to do that though as having all the cuts aligned on one joist may
detract from the strength of the floor when you put the boards back down. I'd probably want to just
cut somewhere to make a start then try to remove the boards conservatively so they go back with the
original overlaps etc. as far as possible.

Fred

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Oct 15, 2012, 6:18:31 AM10/15/12
to
On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 21:09:06 +0100, "David WE Roberts"
<nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:

>Just been told there may be a large stock of pallets going free.
>I am now wondering of a reciprocating saw would be the thing to chop them up
>for firewood

Yes, it would be very good for this. I understand they are
particularly good for demolition tasks, when quickness is more
important than quality of cut. I have found mine useful to cut roots
when trying to dig up old plants. You can get the blade in the soil
without having to worry about it. HTH

Fred

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Oct 15, 2012, 6:19:23 AM10/15/12
to
On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 12:46:15 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

>You need to grind the blade so it is more like the original end if it
>doesn't snap in the correct place. And bring the blade to the work slowly
>but firmly. It does need a bit of practice (and courage ;-)) to develop
>the technique, but once mastered is far quicker than any other way.

Thanks. I can't remember, I only tried it once, but I may not have
grinded the end. I'll have another go next time.

Fred

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Oct 15, 2012, 6:22:47 AM10/15/12
to
On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:11:46 +0100, John Rumm
<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:

>
>I think that is the idea...

Thanks for confirming I was doing it right.

>I tend to use the narrow blades, and just do either 3 or 4 plunge cuts
>side by side, or you can plunge in at a tilt and then do a travelling
>cut if you want. Its reasonably quick. Doing it with the round "segment
>saw" is a bit slower though IME.

I wasn't thinking of using the round blade; I don't know how you would
cut the edges of the floorboard without hitting the adjacent boards
with a semicircular one: the same problem you would have with a
circular saw. The ones I had seen were flat blades about 60mm long.
Like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-65mm-Blade-Fein-Multimaster-Bosch-Multitool-/221135687515?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item337cb6cf5b

But I must admit I have not tried one yet.

PeterC

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Oct 15, 2012, 8:32:32 AM10/15/12
to
Turn the semi-circular blade so that the straight edge can be paralle with
the vertical edge of the board and then the last little curved bit at each
end of the cut can be cut straight down.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

John Rumm

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Oct 15, 2012, 12:14:43 PM10/15/12
to
On 15/10/2012 11:22, Fred wrote:
> On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:11:46 +0100, John Rumm
> <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>>
>> I think that is the idea...
>
> Thanks for confirming I was doing it right.
>
>> I tend to use the narrow blades, and just do either 3 or 4 plunge
>> cuts side by side, or you can plunge in at a tilt and then do a
>> travelling cut if you want. Its reasonably quick. Doing it with the
>> round "segment saw" is a bit slower though IME.
>
> I wasn't thinking of using the round blade; I don't know how you
> would cut the edges of the floorboard without hitting the adjacent
> boards with a semicircular one: the same problem you would have with

The semi circular ones are semi circular for that reason, you can cut up
to an edge and stop with no overcut:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=File:Mm-hss-segment.jpg

> a circular saw. The ones I had seen were flat blades about 60mm
> long. Like this:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-65mm-Blade-Fein-Multimaster-Bosch-Multitool-/221135687515?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item337cb6cf5b
>
> But I must admit I have not tried one yet.

Yup, those work as well. They cut wider - but take slightly longer to
plunge each cut - so the overall time is much the same.

David WE Roberts

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Oct 16, 2012, 5:45:00 AM10/16/12
to

"David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:adq2ka...@mid.individual.net...
> The builders and the plumber currently laying waste to our house both use
> reciprocating saws to cut through floorboards half way along the joist to
> allow refitting without having to put noggins on one side (as you do when
> you cut alongside the joist).
>
> We have a couple of rooms to insulate by lifting the floorboards and
> fitting insulation underneath so this looks like a good way to go.
>
> So will the cheap (£50-£60) reciprocating saws from the sheds do the job?
> Can't see much other use for one at the moment but it would be worth alt
> least that much to make it easy to lift the floorboards.
>
> Alterntively, is there a better electric tool for doing the same job -
> including coping with hitting the occasional nail?


Well, I've bought the saw from Screwfix and it seems O.K. - certainly for a
tad under £50.
1100W as opposed to the 750W equivalent in B&Q.

Now contemplating if I can get away with buying the multi-tool as well :-)

Fred

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Oct 16, 2012, 3:04:56 PM10/16/12
to
On Mon, 15 Oct 2012 11:19:23 +0100, Fred <fr...@no-email.here.invalid>
wrote:

>grinded

Sorry, ground.

Fred

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Oct 16, 2012, 3:10:05 PM10/16/12
to
On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 10:45:00 +0100, "David WE Roberts"
<nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:

>Well, I've bought the saw from Screwfix and it seems O.K. - certainly for a
>tad under £50.
>1100W as opposed to the 750W equivalent in B&Q.

I'm sure you will find it useful. When taking rubbish to the tip, I
use mine for cutting rubbish into small enough pieces to fit the boot
of my car. I only use it for cutting wooden things. Probably a hacksaw
blade would last longer than a disc in an angle grinder but the sparks
are more fun, so I use the angle grinder for metal instead!

1100W seems a lot. I don't know what my aldi one is rated. Is it the
real power of the saw though or is it the work of the marketing
department?

GMM

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Oct 20, 2012, 8:12:21 AM10/20/12
to
I bought the Screwfix £50 hobby last week and it seems to make short work of what I used it for first
(cutting up some fallen bits of tree without risking life and limb with the chain saw). Was a tad miffed
the other day though to find the Aldi one is on sale next week for half that price....

GMM

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Oct 20, 2012, 3:00:06 PM10/20/12
to
I really must find a way to stop these autocorrects: 'Screwfix hobby' not hobby.....

polygonum

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Oct 20, 2012, 3:04:26 PM10/20/12
to
On 20/10/2012 20:00, GMM wrote:
<>
>
> I really must find a way to stop these autocorrects: 'Screwfix hobby'
> not hobby.....
>
I'll happily live with your autocorrect problems. But the additional
lines in every post...! Thanks GG.

--
Rod

GMM

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Oct 20, 2012, 3:24:36 PM10/20/12
to rmoud...@vrod.co.uk
Looks alright here! I'd fix a problem if I could see it....

polygonum

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Oct 20, 2012, 3:38:22 PM10/20/12
to
Have a look here:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/318411/Spaced%20Out.png

That is what I see - even MY OWN SIG has an extra line added! it is
frustrating - I know it is not your personal fault. :-)

--
Rod

GMM

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Oct 21, 2012, 10:36:42 AM10/21/12
to rmoud...@vrod.co.uk
Thanks for the info. Not quite sure how to deal with it, but will look for solutions.
Cheers
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