Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

Bets paint stripper to get emulsion off copper

590 views
Skip to first unread message

Tim Watts

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 10:28:15 AM9/16/15
to
Got to work on an old bit of 15mm copper that's been painted.

Does any paintstripper work on emulsion (I have never tried, oddly enough).

Can't scratch/sand it off as I need a surface that will take a
compression fitting. Burning off is dicey as it's right up close to
plastic (which precludes a solder joint).

Cheers,

Tim

Dave Plowman (News)

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 10:52:39 AM9/16/15
to
In article <rsaocc-...@squidward.sv.dionic.net>,
I think you'll be lucky to find any paint stripper that works on anything
these days, outside of industrial stuff. The active ingredient of the old
- which worked just fine - seems to have fallen foul of H&S or whatever.

Had some Nitromors lying around - yonks old - and used it to start
stripping ordinary gloss paint. Which it did beautifully. Ran out and
bought some more. Which didn't touch it at all - despite the high price.

If you do find one which works, let me know. ;-)

--
*Elephants are the only mammals that can't jump *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Andy Burns

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 10:58:03 AM9/16/15
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> Had some Nitromors lying around - yonks old - and used it to start
> stripping ordinary gloss paint. Which it did beautifully. Ran out and
> bought some more. Which didn't touch it at all - despite the high price.
>
> If you do find one which works, let me know. ;-)

Probably more than Tim needs ...

<http://www.amazon.co.uk//dp/B00J9MGQW6>

Martin Brown

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 10:58:08 AM9/16/15
to
On 16/09/2015 15:28, Tim Watts wrote:
> Got to work on an old bit of 15mm copper that's been painted.
>
> Does any paintstripper work on emulsion (I have never tried, oddly enough).

Swarfega and a bit of time is one way that works fairly well for me. The
paint will soften after about an hour and come off in strips fairly
easily. It works on some gloss paints too.
>
> Can't scratch/sand it off as I need a surface that will take a
> compression fitting. Burning off is dicey as it's right up close to
> plastic (which precludes a solder joint).

Try and avoid scratches too.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Kipper at sea

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 11:24:40 AM9/16/15
to
Coca Cola

Tim Watts

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 12:08:06 PM9/16/15
to
That's rather interesting! Worth a go.

And yes, I am desperate to avoid scratches :)

Mr Pounder Esquire

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 12:17:35 PM9/16/15
to

"Tim Watts" <tw_u...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:rsaocc-...@squidward.sv.dionic.net...
Over 40 years ago I qualified as a heating and ventilation engineer.
It was common practice to file gloss paint of copper piping and use a
compression fitting.
Last time I did this was in 1999, somebody had smacked a Yorkshire elbow on
the copper pipe to a fire hose and it was pissing out.
We used a compression fitting as we were not geared up for soldering. I was
not in plumbing, I was in fire protection and we had to go to B&Q for the
fitting.
I'm sure that if you just sand the emulsion off the copper, a compression
fitting will be fine ------------ bit of PTFE tape just to make sure.


Graham.

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 12:40:48 PM9/16/15
to
On Wed, 16 Sep 2015 15:28:11 +0100, Tim Watts <tw_u...@dionic.net>
wrote:
Grab the end of the pipe with wire wool in a gloved hand, and work
with a twisting motion. Works for me.

--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

RJH

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 12:45:14 PM9/16/15
to
On 16/09/2015 15:28, Tim Watts wrote:
Just use a wet plastic scourer and a drop of washing up liquid? Much as
you might use on alight fitting that's caught a splash of paint. I
wouldn't have thought that'd cause scratching deeper than the wire wool
you're going to use anyway . . .

--
Cheers, Rob

John Rumm

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 12:51:05 PM9/16/15
to
On 16/09/2015 15:28, Tim Watts wrote:
Some emery cloth strip, followed by wire wool...

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

Capitol

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 1:07:24 PM9/16/15
to
Steam cleaning works ok sometimes.

Tim Watts

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 1:07:31 PM9/16/15
to
PTFE on a compression? I'll pass :)

The art here is not to bugger up the pipe!

John

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 1:21:51 PM9/16/15
to
On Wed, 16 Sep 2015 15:47:58 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


>
> Had some Nitromors lying around - yonks old - and used it to start
> stripping ordinary gloss paint. Which it did beautifully. Ran out and
> bought some more. Which didn't touch it at all - despite the high price.
>
> If you do find one which works, let me know. ;-)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201346727847


But for this application I'd try steam.

Mr Pounder Esquire

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 1:29:38 PM9/16/15
to

"Tim Watts" <tw_u...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:c7kocc-...@squidward.sv.dionic.net...
It works very well where there could be doubt about the surface of the
copper.
It worked very well when I had to use a compression fitting on the copper to
the fire hose, after using a file.
Many plumbers do it.


> The art here is not to bugger up the pipe!

Sandpaper will not bugger up the pipe!
Or, use steel wool.








Tim Watts

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 1:38:02 PM9/16/15
to
Good point...

Etaoin Shrdlu

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 2:13:24 PM9/16/15
to
I've never had problems with sealing after removing paint with
wet-or-dry. Although I do use very fine WOD, and make sure the
scratches, fine as they are, go around the pipe, and not along it.

Tim Watts

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 3:18:48 PM9/16/15
to
I was thinking that.

I'll try the swarfega idea - not a lot can go wrong there!

GMM

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 7:22:49 PM9/16/15
to
On 16/09/2015 17:51, John Rumm wrote:
> On 16/09/2015 15:28, Tim Watts wrote:
>> Got to work on an old bit of 15mm copper that's been painted.
>>
>> Does any paintstripper work on emulsion (I have never tried, oddly
>> enough).
>>
>> Can't scratch/sand it off as I need a surface that will take a
>> compression fitting. Burning off is dicey as it's right up close to
>> plastic (which precludes a solder joint).
>
> Some emery cloth strip, followed by wire wool...
>

+1 to that - it's how I've always done it

John Rumm

unread,
Sep 16, 2015, 8:01:36 PM9/16/15
to
On 16/09/2015 18:29, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
> "Tim Watts" <tw_u...@dionic.net> wrote in message

>> The art here is not to bugger up the pipe!
>
> Sandpaper will not bugger up the pipe!
> Or, use steel wool.

I have never had a problem cleaning paint off pipes using a combination
of emery cloth (used the way as shown in John's article here [1]),
followed by a polish with fine wire wool. Even when fitting compression
fittings. (common example being cleaning up rad tails prior to fitting TRVs)


[1] http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Fitting_TRVs_to_Microbore

DerbyBorn

unread,
Sep 17, 2015, 2:53:19 AM9/17/15
to

>> I'm sure that if you just sand the emulsion off the copper, a
>> compression fitting will be fine ------------ bit of PTFE tape just
>> to make sure.
>>
>>
>
> PTFE on a compression? I'll pass :)
>
> The art here is not to bugger up the pipe!

Unless you are going to get PTFE under the olive - ie between the olive and
the pipe, then I don't see why PTFE would help. I feel so many people think
it is th esolution to everything - but without a proper side by side
comparison of identical methods (with and without) then you don't know that
it helped. PTFE is for threades joints - a compression uses the threads to
compress the olive and are not part of the sealing process.

Capitol

unread,
Sep 17, 2015, 5:05:06 AM9/17/15
to
I always use ptfe tape and water pump grease. The joints come
apart easily after 30 years usage.

Theo Markettos

unread,
Sep 17, 2015, 5:47:51 AM9/17/15
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
> I think you'll be lucky to find any paint stripper that works on anything
> these days, outside of industrial stuff. The active ingredient of the old
> - which worked just fine - seems to have fallen foul of H&S or whatever.
>
> Had some Nitromors lying around - yonks old - and used it to start
> stripping ordinary gloss paint. Which it did beautifully. Ran out and
> bought some more. Which didn't touch it at all - despite the high price.
>
> If you do find one which works, let me know. ;-)

You could just buy the active ingredient of old Nitromors:
http://www.chemicals.co.uk/dichloromethane
(also ebay etc)

At your own risk, read the MSDS, wear PPE, etc.

Theo

DerbyBorn

unread,
Sep 17, 2015, 6:25:28 AM9/17/15
to
Capitol <sp...@whereva.uk> wrote in
news:fr2dnbXcGpGmH2fI...@brightview.co.uk:
The grease is a good idea - except it could lead to overtightning due to
friction being reduced. /Many diy plumbing problems are caused by siezed
parts - a problem so easily avoided if things are lubricated slightly (with
the proviso that you don't apply as much torque to tighten). Threads in
taps are a prime candidate for a bit of grease.

newshound

unread,
Sep 18, 2015, 7:22:16 AM9/18/15
to
On 17/09/2015 01:01, John Rumm wrote:
> On 16/09/2015 18:29, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
>> "Tim Watts" <tw_u...@dionic.net> wrote in message
>
>>> The art here is not to bugger up the pipe!
>>
>> Sandpaper will not bugger up the pipe!
>> Or, use steel wool.
>
> I have never had a problem cleaning paint off pipes using a combination
> of emery cloth (used the way as shown in John's article here [1]),
> followed by a polish with fine wire wool. Even when fitting compression
> fittings. (common example being cleaning up rad tails prior to fitting
> TRVs)
>
>
> [1] http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Fitting_TRVs_to_Microbore
>
>

I was going to say that too!

And, to tackle the hoary myth about PTFE on compression fittings, it is
absolutely fine to put three turns or so on the male threaded portion.
Not for sealing, but to reduce the friction (so that you get more axial
load for a given amount of torque).

Try to avoid letting filaments go into the cones or across the olive,
but *small* amounts even there will not matter: at the pressures
generated in a compression fitting the PTFE will just extrude.

newshound

unread,
Sep 18, 2015, 7:29:05 AM9/18/15
to
It helps because it lowers the friction coefficient. So for a given
amount of torque, you get more axial force (which is what makes the
olive seal). It doesn't make much difference on brass fittings, but it
makes more on steel and chrome plated ones.

John Rumm

unread,
Sep 18, 2015, 4:01:06 PM9/18/15
to
On 18/09/2015 12:22, newshound wrote:
> On 17/09/2015 01:01, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 16/09/2015 18:29, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
>>> "Tim Watts" <tw_u...@dionic.net> wrote in message
>>
>>>> The art here is not to bugger up the pipe!
>>>
>>> Sandpaper will not bugger up the pipe!
>>> Or, use steel wool.
>>
>> I have never had a problem cleaning paint off pipes using a combination
>> of emery cloth (used the way as shown in John's article here [1]),
>> followed by a polish with fine wire wool. Even when fitting compression
>> fittings. (common example being cleaning up rad tails prior to fitting
>> TRVs)
>>
>>
>> [1] http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Fitting_TRVs_to_Microbore
>>
>>
>
> I was going to say that too!
>
> And, to tackle the hoary myth about PTFE on compression fittings, it is
> absolutely fine to put three turns or so on the male threaded portion.
> Not for sealing, but to reduce the friction (so that you get more axial
> load for a given amount of torque).

Indeed - I think the compression article says much the same:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Compression_fitting#Lubricating_joints

> Try to avoid letting filaments go into the cones or across the olive,
> but *small* amounts even there will not matter: at the pressures
> generated in a compression fitting the PTFE will just extrude.


0 new messages