Repairing a keypad for an intruder alarm
NoSpam
are getting difficult to use and I don't think the keypads are still
available. It's a standard rubber membrane keypad over a PCB; is there
any way to repair these? If not, is it a standard interface (marked as
0V, 13V, Comms, Sound, tamper x2) so that other types would work?
Dave
Bob Minchin
I used to get prototype rubber membrane keypads made up when I was
working. I can't recall the company but I don't think they were stupidly
expensive. you would have to bodge it on top of the defunct one. If you
want to go down that route email me directly and I'll make a few
enquiries from ex colleagues to find the supplier.
Bob
Skipweasel
bob.minc...@YOURHATntlworld.com says...
> I used to get prototype rubber membrane keypads made up when I was
> working.
>
Or you can take apart the existing pad and clean the contacts and the
black conductive dot on the back of each button. That usually gives you
another few years in which to contemplate the inevitable.
--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.
Harry Bloomfield
> In article <yH0Uo.9014$ev4....@newsfe05.ams2>,
> bob.minc...@YOURHATntlworld.com says...
>> I used to get prototype rubber membrane keypads made up when I was
>> working.
>>
>
> Or you can take apart the existing pad and clean the contacts and the
> black conductive dot on the back of each button. That usually gives you
> another few years in which to contemplate the inevitable.
That is what I would try first - they are a similar design to a
TV/video remote control buttons. Several interlocking fingers of PCB
track, gold plated and shorted by the button when pressed. Give the
gold tracks a good rub with a pencil (not pen) eraser, to clean them
and maybe wash the buttons with warm soapy water.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
NoSpam
Dave
NoSpam
I did that a few years ago (I also changed the alarm code to use virgin
keys) but now the "set" key seems to be beyond redemption. I suppose I
could add an external switch for "set" but the other pads are getting a
bit flaky so I don't think that's worth doing.
Skipweasel
harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk says...
> Give the
> gold tracks a good rub with a pencil (not pen) eraser, to clean them
> and maybe wash the buttons with warm soapy water.
>
I find the abrasive nature of a pen eraser works rather better - but of
course you have to avoid being an arse and going over the top.
Skipweasel
says...
> I did that a few years ago (I also changed the alarm code to use virgin
> keys) but now the "set" key seems to be beyond redemption. I suppose I
> could add an external switch for "set" but the other pads are getting a
> bit flaky so I don't think that's worth doing.
>
A bit of Veroboard with a bunch of the top sort listed here...
http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/switches.html
wouldn't take long to patch together, and you could spot-wire them into
the existing board. An hour or two, tops. Mount the whole lot in a smart
box and you're still considerably cheaper than buying new kit.
Bob Eager
15 quid, but take a look at this:
http://cpc.farnell.com/chemtronics/61923/50-use-rubber-keypad-repair-kit/
dp/SA00867
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
chrisj...@proemail.co.uk
> On 02/01/2011 15:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Skipweasel laid this down on his screen :
> >> bob.minchinREM...@YOURHATntlworld.com says...
> >>> I used to get prototype rubber membrane keypads made up when I was
> >>> working.
>
> >> Or you can take apart the existing pad and clean the contacts and the
> >> black conductive dot on the back of each button. That usually gives
> >> you another few years in which to contemplate the inevitable.
>
> > That is what I would try first - they are a similar design to a TV/video
> > remote control buttons. Several interlocking fingers of PCB track, gold
> > plated and shorted by the button when pressed. Give the gold tracks a
> > good rub with a pencil (not pen) eraser, to clean them and maybe wash
> > the buttons with warm soapy water.
>
> I did that a few years ago (I also changed the alarm code to use virgin
> keys) but now the "set" key seems to be beyond redemption. I suppose I
> could add an external switch for "set" but the other pads are getting a
>
> - Show quoted text -
I've seen it suggested that rubbing a very soft pencil over the rubber
pads may replace enough graphite to restore the conductivity, but I've
never tried it and don't know how long it might last. I guess graphite
paint ("dag") might also work, if it didn't crack.
I wonder how crucial the conductivity is? Could you just glue on some
"silver paper" or if that's too conductive, bits of the conductive
bags PCBs come in?
Chris
cj
Seems the Citadel is a similar beast to the old ADE G3 probably a clone.
Good news is G3 keypads are still available .
Search for Optima G3 RKP.
I might even have one in my junk box ,will check and repost.
HTH
CJ
NoSpam
Thanks for that! Mine looks identical to an 8EP219, which has apparently
been replaced by an 8EP416 ... but the pad repair kit someone else
suggested is tempting
NoSpam
> On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 14:28:52 +0000, NoSpam wrote:
>
>> Some of the keys on the remote keypad for my Citadel XR2 intruder alarm
>> are getting difficult to use and I don't think the keypads are still
>> available. It's a standard rubber membrane keypad over a PCB; is there
>> any way to repair these? If not, is it a standard interface (marked as
>> 0V, 13V, Comms, Sound, tamper x2) so that other types would work?
>
> 15 quid, but take a look at this:
>
> http://cpc.farnell.com/chemtronics/61923/50-use-rubber-keypad-repair-kit/
> dp/SA00867
>
>
search for and it seems that my RKP is an 8EP219, but that's apparently
been replaced by an 8EP416 - if I can't find a cheap replacement I'll
try the pad repair route.
NoSpam
The 8EP219 arrived today, fixes to the wall with the same screw holes
and works perfectly. I feel a bit of a wuss for not trying the paint to
repair the old one but the case was looking a bit scruffy so replacing
the whole thing was a good option.
Thanks for the info that led me to finding who the OEM was.
Another tick for uk.d-i-y
Dave