Successfully fixed Drayton Tempus 7

[Bob]

The usual press time+ and select wasn't working, the battery inside would
prevent a full reset so this procedure does a total system reset.

Mains off
Unscrew with flat screwdriver the holding screw at the bottom of the unit
lift unit off backing plate pulling the bottom towards you
using a thin knife or a screwdriver lift off the back panel to expose the
circuit and the round backup battery
with a small bit of metal ie your screwdriver breifly touch the contact
below the battery to the outer case of the battery ( temporary short )
replace the cover, the unit is now reset to default ( you should be able to
see the display working again if you hold it at a angle )
place back on wall
tighten screw
turn on mains

[geoff]

In message <jcpqfk$ffb$1...@speranza.aioe.org>, Bob <bob....@net10.net>
writes

Well done you ...


--
geoff

[carps]

Thanks very much - this worked perfectly

[claireca...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, 17 September 2013 22:32:53 UTC+1, carps wrote:
> On Tuesday, 20 December 2011 11:10:40 UTC, Bob wrote:
>
> > The usual press time+ and select wasn't working, the battery inside would
>
> >
>
> > prevent a full reset so this procedure does a total system reset.
>
> >
>

> > I should add - it worked perfectly on a frozen Drayton Tempus 1

[Brian Gaff]

But why did it get confused in the first place. Maybe dodgy battery
connections or borderline battery?

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"carps" <claireca...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1717d8ff-843f-4e33...@googlegroups.com...

[bayl...@btinternet.com]

I bloody love the internet, was having problems with my heating starting up(Micron70FF), then when resetting the controller by turning off the power to reset a lockout error the display went screwy showing 10EE. Tried taking apart and was going to replace when I saw Bob's post. You are a star as it worked for me, I think the battery needs replacing but as it only used when the power goes off I'll risk it for now.
Cheers Bob

Simon

[Brian Gaff]

No a good idea too short the battery out. Far better to use a plastic
knitting needle to momentarily lift a contact. This of course depends on the
type of battery and socket fitted. Some are like the PC and those can be
easily popped out using a screwdriver blade.
Brian

<bayl...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:e781a582-870b-405b...@googlegroups.com...

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[bayl...@btinternet.com]

The battery on mine was old and this was the cause of the corruption, the battery is a CR2032 which is soldered vertically into the PCB so no way of disconnecting it. I have now taken out the old battery and replaced with a new one(available from Farnell). One issue is that the program appears to have changed in that when the heating is turned on the hot water comes on as well! Oh well at least it works.

[wei.m...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, December 20, 2011 at 11:10:40 AM UTC, Bob wrote:

There are two Select buttons. Which one to press with Time+?

Thanks
Mian

[b.ri...@gmail.com]

Thanks Bob. Worked a treat and house is now warm again.

[dgpea...@gmail.com]

Bingo, it worked in spite of my heating engineer telling me it wouldn't. So saved over £100.
To remove the back on mine I needed to udo four screws, two of which were hidden beneath labels.

[Brian Gaff]

We don't know what worked though.
Brian

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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
<dgpea...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:59b511fb-3b46-4d47...@googlegroups.com...

[dgpea...@gmail.com]

Sorry. Shorting the battery solved the problem.

[chri...@hotmail.com]

On Wednesday, 21 November 2018 12:24:38 UTC, dgpea...@gmail.com wrote:
> Bingo, it worked in spite of my heating engineer telling me it wouldn't. So saved over £100.
> To remove the back on mine I needed to udo four screws, two of which were hidden beneath labels.

This is so true..I have just fixed mine ..but had to remove those two labels as well...thank you for pointing this out. one label explains whether it is gravity or pump and is L shaped and the other describes the model and is larger,,,thank God for google !!!

[chri...@hotmail.com]

My timer and boiler are working perfectly now !

[chri...@hotmail.com]

On Monday, 6 May 2019 09:38:55 UTC+1, chri...@hotmail.com wrote:

And thank you Bob ever so much for letting us all know how to fix our timers !!!

[chri...@hotmail.com]

On Tuesday, 20 December 2011 11:10:40 UTC, Bob wrote:

[Brian Gaff]

So what is the culprit that causes the issue in the first place, corrosion
of the battery connections perhaps?

Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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<chri...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b3706739-b544-43ce...@googlegroups.com...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <qap1rm$f5u$1...@dont-email.me>,

Brian Gaff <bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> So what is the culprit that causes the issue in the first place, corrosion
> of the battery connections perhaps?

On my Honeywell, the rechargeable battery simply failed through age - and
likely a crude charger. Simple enough to solder in a new one. These days
I'd expect Li-Ion, which with a decent cell and charger should last the
life of the device.

--
*Okay, who stopped the payment on my reality check? *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.