Air vent in kitchen for Aga
Tim Hardisty
building works, which included a refurb and install of our Aga.
He has mentioned - correctly it appears - that we really ought to have
an air brick for the gas Aga and was surprised that the
Corgi-registered fitter didn't mention it. Why am I not surprised ;-)
Aga themselves say a "6x9 airbrick usually suffices". Very scientific
that!
If relevent, we will be having a canopy extractor fitted in due course
above the Aga, which has a draught diverter at base of the flue.
My question is whether it matters where the air brick is placed. I can
imagine it causing draughts at floor level so is a high level vent OK?
What is the normal position for a vent in such circumstances?
TIA
Tim Hardisty.
Remove HAT before replying
Andy Hall
"Tim Hardisty" <tim...@hardisty.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3ce27e3f....@News.CIS.DFN.DE...
> The building inspector has just signed off the completion on our
> building works, which included a refurb and install of our Aga.
>
> He has mentioned - correctly it appears - that we really ought to have
> an air brick for the gas Aga and was surprised that the
> Corgi-registered fitter didn't mention it. Why am I not surprised ;-)
Depends. Presumably you have the conventional flue, or powered flue.....?
>
> Aga themselves say a "6x9 airbrick usually suffices". Very scientific
> that!
Really they can't because the ventilation has to be adequate regardless of
the air flows in the room.
In a kitchen you might have a poxy little 100mm fan or an industrial
strength hurricane generator in
your cooker hood. The air for that has to come from somewhere.
>
> If relevent, we will be having a canopy extractor fitted in due course
> above the Aga, which has a draught diverter at base of the flue.
The draught diverter is a normal part. You may have noticed that there is a
sensor near it which is connected
to shut off the gas. AIUI this is for if the flue becomes blocked or
there are other reasons for the flue not working etc.
>
> My question is whether it matters where the air brick is placed. I can
> imagine it causing draughts at floor level so is a high level vent OK?
>
> What is the normal position for a vent in such circumstances?
As I understand it from previous threads and manufacturer data, you
definitely need ventilation if the appliance
has an input rate of more than 7kW. Below that, you *may* do, but it
depends on the circumstances - e..g the extractor or if you have other
appliances.
The Aga natural gas models for UK use have a maximum gas input rate of 5.8kW
so are below the limit. This only happens during initial heating or after
a very extended cooking session on the top. In steady state, it comes down
to 1kW or even less.
We have a utility room adjoining the kitchen which has an arch and no door.
There is an air vent in there which was intended for the CH boiler, except
that this is room sealed and hence the vent is redundant.
The Aga installer did tests for spillage around the flue with the extractor
running full belt and there were no issues.
There are never any draught issues. With the Aga idling, there is no
noticable draught through the vent, presumably because air requirement is
small and is coming from many sources. I can feel a slight one with the
extractor on full whack, but that's hardly a bad thing. In practice we
only have the extractor running when cooking with the griddle pan on the top
or frying (if on the top) and so it's for short periods. I don't think
you'll get cold.......
Ed may have some more comment on the specifics, or your installer *should*
be able to give correct information. Perhaps the fact that you currently
have no extractor led your installer to believe that no additional
ventilation would be needed (appliance under 7kW).
.andy
John
> building works, which included a refurb and install of our Aga.
>
> He has mentioned - correctly it appears - that we really ought to have
> an air brick for the gas Aga and was surprised that the
> Corgi-registered fitter didn't mention it. Why am I not surprised ;-)
>
The gas input rate is what the requirement is based upon. Basically if the
input to the appliance is less than 7kW then adventitious ventilation may
suffice AS LONG AS THE FLUE PERFORMS CORRECTLY AND NO SPILLAGE OCCURS. This
should be tested with due regard to ANY extraction systems being in
operation including those in connecting rooms and tumble driers etc. If
spillage occurs with extractors in operation then ventilation will be
required. Also bear in mind the air requirements if your AGA includes a
boiler section for central heating will be greater than a straight cooker
> Aga themselves say a "6x9 airbrick usually suffices". Very scientific
> that!
Ha! and other expletives.
>
> If relevent, we will be having a canopy extractor fitted in due course
> above the Aga, which has a draught diverter at base of the flue.
Very relevant - see above.
>
> My question is whether it matters where the air brick is placed. I can
> imagine it causing draughts at floor level so is a high level vent OK?
High level vent directy to outside is fine but if you are ventilating
through one room into another the interconnecting vents should be at low
level to minimise the spread of smoke in the case of a fire
>
Andy Hall
"John" <AS-Bo1...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:ac0cfc$op4$1...@helle.btinternet.com...
>
> The gas input rate is what the requirement is based upon. Basically if the
> input to the appliance is less than 7kW then adventitious ventilation may
> suffice AS LONG AS THE FLUE PERFORMS CORRECTLY AND NO SPILLAGE OCCURS.
This
> should be tested with due regard to ANY extraction systems being in
> operation including those in connecting rooms and tumble driers etc. If
> spillage occurs with extractors in operation then ventilation will be
> required. Also bear in mind the air requirements if your AGA includes a
> boiler section for central heating will be greater than a straight cooker
Agas only have the option of a boiler component for hot water, it is not
enough to run any CH requirement.
Having one of these does not increase the heat input above the maximum rated
5.8kW, only that the burner
would modulate to a higher point with HW demand than without.
Rayburns have more substantial and in some models separate burners for the
range and CH/HW parts.
>
> > Aga themselves say a "6x9 airbrick usually suffices". Very scientific
> > that!
>
> Ha! and other expletives.
They can't be more specific for all the reasons mentioned though.
>
> >
> > If relevent, we will be having a canopy extractor fitted in due course
> > above the Aga, which has a draught diverter at base of the flue.
>
> Very relevant - see above.
> >
> > My question is whether it matters where the air brick is placed. I can
> > imagine it causing draughts at floor level so is a high level vent OK?
>
> High level vent directy to outside is fine but if you are ventilating
> through one room into another the interconnecting vents should be at low
> level to minimise the spread of smoke in the case of a fire
> >
>
.andy
pauly
I'm sure they would have a technical department, which could help you
with your query.
Try emailing te...@vent-axia.com, I've found them to be extremely
helpful in the past.
Good luck
The Natural Philosopher
Andy Hall wrote:
> Agas only have the option of a boiler component for hot water, it is not
> enough to run any CH requirement.
That is true these days, but you used to be able to get a separte
gravity fed CH bolier from them - my other halfs folks have one running
a hot air blower system called an 'agavector'.
Not sure if they still make em tho.
m.holley
We recently installed an oil fired Aga and installed an air supply as per
Aga technicals recommnedation. I believe thay actually quote xxmm2 of
ventilation and follow on with the "6x9 airbrick will suffice, as this
supplys a lot more than xxmm2.
We had no free wall space for an air-brick and were also concerned about
droughts whoshing around ankles etc. So I drilled hole in external wall and
using waste pipe and firritngs piped the air behind/under the kitchen units
with an oulet next to the Aga. The air exits from under the kitchen units
via a circulat soffit vent, also prevents any adventurous mice from entering
the pipe, a small bit of wife's stocking (not fishnet) across orifice acts
as bug screen.
Regards Maclom.
m.holley
Tim Hardisty
>
>"Tim Hardisty" <tim...@hardisty.co.uk> wrote in message
>news:3ce8c3dc....@News.CIS.DFN.DE...
>> On Wed, 15 May 2002 15:31:33 GMT, tim...@hardisty.co.uk (Tim Hardisty)
>> wrote:
>> I decided to install a 6x9 vent at floor
>> level, and did it this weekend. I will wait until the extractor is in
>> and then do a smoke test before deciding if a second vent is required.
>
>Tim, don't forget that to be rigorous you need to have the burner in the Aga
>on full rather than the steady state
>modulated down rate.
Thanks, Andy. Noted.
>The installer that did ours did it both ways and
>it was fine even with a pretty hefty fan (Elica B180UHS)
I looked at Elica extractors - they seem pretty good - and got a
ball-park quote for a custom canopy to go with an off-the-shelf
kitchen (MFI) that wasn't too ridiculous.
In the end we've gone the local-company kitchen route and they will
make up the canopy themselves. The extractor is likely to be a fairly
measly "standard" unit, as it is on an outside wall and ducting will
be minimal.
Like you, I don't expect to use it that much.
Regards,