Washling line pulleys - help
mo
I have a concrete fence post and I have a house.
I need to put up a washing line between these 2. I am going to use a
pulley system so that the line can be made to go higher once the washign
line has been made taut.
Just need soem help.
Presumably I need one end to be fixed and then the pulley on the other
side.
So if I buy one of these
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-12053-32mm-Galvanized-Line-
Pulley.html
Then fix it to the wall using one of these and the hook on the above
thing
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-10995-17mm-Brass-Plated-Picture-
Frame-Screw-Eyes-Pack-of-200.html
Also have one of the above fixing the line at the other end.
Is that it? Then all I need is maybe one of these to hold the line in
place when its taut
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-6225-100mm-Galvanized-Cleat-
Hook.html
Which side would you put the pulley on? The house or fence post? I will
have the highest poitn of the line level on both ends. I spose its
easier to fix things to the post than the house but it would mean
walking to the end of the garden to control the pulley.
Also when there is nothing on the line and you loosen the line,
presumably it has to be quite a weightly wahsing line to come down of
its own accord. presumably a light washing liek will still just hang up?
Thanks
Cicero
=================================================
I think this would be a better combination:
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-6225-100mm-Galvanized-Cleat-Hook.html
Fix the pulley with a good strong plug to the house wall with the cleat
somewhere below it.
The brass eye hook at 17mm would be unlikely to take the strain of a
washing line. If you're a bit tight-fisted you can buy the pulley as a
single at other places, such as a high street Ironmongers if you can find
one, or possibly B&Q.
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
James Salisbury
TMC
"mo" <n...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9D5E9BC8B6...@216.196.109.144...
A full line of washing say 15 metres long would be very difficult to pull up
partly because of the weight of the washing and partly becaues of the small
diameter of the line that you are pulling on.
Also as most washing lines stretch to varying degrees starting with it slack
you are likely to have washing touching the floor by the time time line is
full
Far better to set the line taut to start with and use a prop
And of course do not forget to get a selection of different colour pegs as
they apparently have to co-ordinate with the washing!!!
Dave
Your links were broken for me, but I have one word of advice, go to a
yacht chandlers for any fittings that will be permanently outside. I am
a radio amateur and that is what I have to raise and lower aerials.
Dave
mo
news:C7ednTMc_9XvpFbW...@bt.com:
>
> A full line of washing say 15 metres long would be very difficult to
> pull up partly because of the weight of the washing and partly becaues
> of the small diameter of the line that you are pulling on.
Our last washing line was not the traditional flimsy stuff but actually
some some of metal wire that was twsited. this would sag less than normal
wahsing line but it would be quite a bit heavier I suppose.
Bruce
<nntp.dsl.pipex.com> wrote:
>
>Alternatively just use a clothes prop...
That was my first reaction.
But why use something cheap, simple and effective when there is an
expensive and complex alternative available?
Andy Champ
>
> Your links were broken for me, but I have one word of advice, go to a
> yacht chandlers for any fittings that will be permanently outside. I am
> a radio amateur and that is what I have to raise and lower aerials.
>
Dave,
we had a galvanised pulley on the line in the garden at our first house.
It looked good as new when we left 7 years later.
That was one the council had fitted when they built the place. Yacht
fittings tend to be expensive.
Mo,
forget the weight of the line. A basket full of wet washing might be
25Kg (it's 9Kg _dry_ don't forget) and you may want two loads on there.
However, do not underestimate the tension you need on the line to hold
it up. This is likely to be several times the weight of the washing -
you need a _strong_ post.
Andy
spamlet
Fix one end of the line to your post.
Fix another pulley as high up the house wall as you like.
Temporarily run the line from your post through this pulley and down the
wall to a convenient cleat, and cut the line there so that you have
established the 'up' height of your line.
Run the line back out of the wall pulley and through a second pulley; then
tie the free end to the wall cleat.
Run a shorter piece of line through the wall pulley and down to tie it off
at the eye of the pulley that carries the washing line. Then it is a simple
matter to pull the line of washing up and down via the line through the wall
pulley while the second travels along the line spreading the load.
Sounds pedantic but it really isn't - and it wasn't my idea. My last house
came with the line set up like that, which puzzled me at first, but it
really does work much more smoothly than one fixed pulley.
The advantage of this over a prop is your 'not in use' line position is up
and away over your head, and you only lower it when you need it.
S
The Medway Handyman
> Hi All
>
> I have a concrete fence post and I have a house.
>
> I need to put up a washing line between these 2. I am going to use a
> pulley system so that the line can be made to go higher once the
> washign line has been made taut.
>
> Just need soem help.
>
> Presumably I need one end to be fixed and then the pulley on the other
> side.
>
Traditional way to fix a washing line is to have a pulley secured to the
house & a pulley secured to the post. These don't take the washing line as
such, but a loop of line/rope that has the ends tied to a ring. The line is
attached to the rings so it can be raised parrallel.
> Then fix it to the wall using one of these and the hook on the above
> thing
>
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-10995-17mm-Brass-Plated-Picture-
> Frame-Screw-Eyes-Pack-of-200.html
Nowhere near big enough.
> Which side would you put the pulley on? The house or fence post? I
> will have the highest poitn of the line level on both ends. I spose
> its easier to fix things to the post than the house but it would mean
> walking to the end of the garden to control the pulley.
>
> Also when there is nothing on the line and you loosen the line,
> presumably it has to be quite a weightly wahsing line to come down of
> its own accord. presumably a light washing liek will still just hang
> up?
The benefit of the 2 loop system is that the line can be deliberately
lowered.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Harry Bloomfield
> The advantage of this over a prop is your 'not in use' line position is up
> and away over your head, and you only lower it when you need it.
That sounds good, but any chance of a drawing or diagram?
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
mo
some meaty closed hook things. My links before were mroe an example of the
shape/item.
What is the poitn of a system liek this
http://www.ecowashinglines.co.uk/product/POST-TO-WALL-PULLEY-WASHING-LINE
surely you would only ever use one side?
The Medway Handyman
> I think the concrete post should be able to take the weight! I will
> buy some meaty closed hook things. My links before were mroe an
> example of the shape/item.
>
> What is the poitn of a system liek this
>
> http://www.ecowashinglines.co.uk/product/POST-TO-WALL-PULLEY-WASHING-LINE
>
It means that the line can be lowered/raised parrallel. Not as good as the
loop/loop system.
mo
news:PyMyn.273644$1j3....@newsfe10.ams2:
> mo wrote:
>> I think the concrete post should be able to take the weight! I will
>> buy some meaty closed hook things. My links before were mroe an
>> example of the shape/item.
>>
>> What is the poitn of a system liek this
>>
>> http://www.ecowashinglines.co.uk/product/POST-TO-WALL-PULLEY-WASHING-L
>> INE
>>
>
> It means that the line can be lowered/raised parrallel. Not as good
> as the loop/loop system.
>
>
Is that the system Andy mentioned?
I think i am going to find a picture of it to work it out!
mo
the house and post and then a way of bringing the whole line down in one
straint line from one location as oppsed to a pulley easy side so i have to
do each side seperatley - it sounds like it would be complicated!
Matty F
There is a device called a rotary clothes line that holds a huge
amount of clothes and can be wound up and down with a crank. You can
also stand in one place while loading and unloading it, and wind it up
out of the way.
spamlet
Yes: the two pulleys on one side system I mentioned.
You have one end fixed to the top of the post.
You have a pulley tied to an eye at similar or higher height at the wall
end.
Through the wall pulley you run another piece of line tied to a second
pulley.
It is through this second pulley that the washing line goes.
You raise the washing line by pulling the line that goes through the wall
pulley, so that the pulley through which the washing line runs is pulled up
towards the wall pulley taking the washing up and out of the way. It is
much more simple to do than to describe, and I don't know how to post a
drawing here.
S
spamlet
"Harry Bloomfield" <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:mn.955e7da4f6...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk...
Hmm, not sure how to do this but:
pI
/ I
I____________________d I
I \ I
I \ I
I \Ic
I I
The washing line goes through pulley d and down to cleat c. How long you
tie it off at is up to you. I've drawn it so that it pulls up level, but
if, like me, you wanted to use the space over tallish plants or even a
conservatory, you can have a much longer line so that it slopes and clears
things, when pulled up. Also, higher means windier and quicker drying (and
occasional washing ending up next door - so do get good pegs!)
The pull up line goes through pulley p (which is attached to the wall
through an eye so that it is fairly free to swivel) and down to the eye of
pulley d where it is tied. In my case in the 'up' position pulley d was up
against the bedroom window next to its fixed partner. No kids or I'm sure
they would have used it as an aerial runway!
Put one loop in the 'c' end of the pull up line for you, and one for the
missus, a bit further down, so you each have a convenient 'down' position
for loading the line, which you can reach without the washing dangling on
the floor. As you load the line the 'd' pulley will travel along
'frictionlessly', minimising wear on the line.
Once you get the idea you can see that the system is versatile; that the
washing line does not have to be straight, and that the pull up line 'p'
pulley could be at any third point, and is really the equivalent of the old
prop. Your main line could, say, run along the middle of the garden, but
be pulled up toward a tree or garage wall once loaded. Could thus give you
three lines to hang on instead of one.
Hope the diag doesn't get scrambled when posted...
S
Harry Bloomfield
Well that has given me a few ideas, to help avoid props and neck height
washing lines.
>
> Hope the diag doesn't get scrambled when posted...
No, it was fine here, thanks...
mo
>
> Hmm, not sure how to do this but:
>
> pI
> / I
> I____________________d I
> I \ I
> I \ I
> I \Ic
> I I
>
>
> Put one loop in the 'c' end of the pull up line for you, and one for
> the missus, a bit further down, so you each have a convenient 'down'
> position for loading the line, which you can reach without the washing
> dangling on the floor. As you load the line the 'd' pulley will
> travel along 'frictionlessly', minimising wear on the line.
Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying now. I think my
old neighbour had that system. His P pulley was atatched right a the top
of his house so his washing line went really high up into the air.
I think for my purposes the alternative is that my D pulley is fixed to
the wall and I allow some slack in the line which means my wahsing line
almost become a U shape and I put the wahsing onto it that way.
With your system when the line is down the line is almost diaganal to
the ground right? So the fixed side always stays same height but its
possible to take the side with 2 pulleys right onto the floor?
So when you want to raise the entire line you pull down the line which
is connected to P. Do you attach that to cleat C as well. In which case
there would never be a reason to mess about with the line on Pulley D as
it would be set to one fixed length?
I have left a bit of your text below your diagram which I am not sure I
understand. With the line on pulley D can you move the line across so
you can stand in one place and load the line? Not sure I can see how if
its effectivley tied/fixed at both ends. I supposed you would need
another pulley at the other end and more washing line?
spamlet
> "spamlet" <spam.m...@spamola.invalid> wrote in
>
>>
>> Hmm, not sure how to do this but:
>>
>> pI
>> / I
>> I____________________d I
>> I \ I
>> I \ I
>> I \Ic
>> I I
>>
>
>>
>> Put one loop in the 'c' end of the pull up line for you, and one for
>> the missus, a bit further down, so you each have a convenient 'down'
>> position for loading the line, which you can reach without the washing
>> dangling on the floor. As you load the line the 'd' pulley will
>> travel along 'frictionlessly', minimising wear on the line.
>
>
> Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying now. I think my
> old neighbour had that system. His P pulley was atatched right a the top
> of his house so his washing line went really high up into the air.
>
> I think for my purposes the alternative is that my D pulley is fixed to
> the wall and I allow some slack in the line which means my wahsing line
> almost become a U shape and I put the wahsing onto it that way.
With your 'd' pulley fixed to the wall it still works, but when I tried it
that way I was surprised at how much harder it was to raise the washing, and
then you have to wind up all the slack onto the cleat (Actually I had a
similar problem with window blinds, where the slack went right down to the
floor and was a pain to wind on to the cleat. The 'solution' there was to
use 2 cleats and wind round the outside of both.)
> With your system when the line is down the line is almost diaganal to
> the ground right?
Only if that is the way you arrange it to be: as I said, I would put a loop
in a convenient part of the pull up line so that you just lowered to that
loop and hooked it on the cleat with the washing line at a convenient hight
for you to hang the washing without dangling it on the ground.
So the fixed side always stays same height but its
> possible to take the side with 2 pulleys right onto the floor?
If you made the pull up line long enough, but unless you are into skipping
or limbo dancing, I don't see any reason to. The less 'spare' line you have
to wind up each time you hoist the washing, the better, I'd say.
>
>
> So when you want to raise the entire line you pull down the line which
> is connected to P.
Yes but it's connected through P to d, not fixed *to* P
Our nomenclature is getting a bit fuzzy here: the pull up line runs
*around* the pulley wheel of P. The eye of Pulley P itself is attached to
the wall (With a nice sturdy 'vine eye'). It is *connected* to the eye on
pulley d at one end and can be fixed at various points to the cleat c
depending on how high and low you want the washing line limits.
Do you attach that to cleat C as well.
Yes: you set a couple of handy loops to tie off at your preferred low and
high points.
In which case
> there would never be a reason to mess about with the line on Pulley D as
> it would be set to one fixed length?
Yes: That being the point of the exercise: much less winding, and more
leverage from 2 pulleys than you get from 1. (And with the modern coated
line you don't have to worry too much about it breaking, so you have more
left over for tying up the roses.)
>
>
> I have left a bit of your text below your diagram which I am not sure I
> understand. With the line on pulley D can you move the line across so
> you can stand in one place and load the line? Not sure I can see how if
> its effectivley tied/fixed at both ends. I supposed you would need
> another pulley at the other end and more washing line?
To do that you would need a pulley at the post and at c, and d would have to
be a double pulley, with one wheel for each half of the loop, because you
are effectively replacing 1 line with a parallel loop. And you might find
it a bit fiddly tying the loop ends in a way that didn't get stuck in the
pulleys somewhere.
Unless you are intending to hang your washing over a river or road, I think
it is easier to walk up and down the line. However, you will no doubt have
seen street scenes where the washing is pulled back and forth across the
street between the houses, by such means. And after all, if you want to see
what complex things you can achieve with pulleys, take a look at a sailing
boat!
Who'd have thought there could be so much to say about fixing a washing
line!
S
mo
news:Ut5zn.25135$1%7.1...@newsfe07.ams2:
Right I get you now.
ONE more thing
Instead of having loops could you use somesort of winder system to get the
line up and down?
I know what I mean but I don;t know what they are called or where to buy
them from
A bit liek how you wind down a car window but you wind down the line
itself... and it would obviously be connected to the wall and much
sturdier.
ANyone?
spamlet
All this washing line stuff is beginning to sound like a wind up, but if you
really are serious, you could get various winders and windlasses from boat
suppliers. But really you only have an arm's length or so to pull down and
hook around the cleat in your design, which, as I mentioned with my window
blinds, is quicker than winding a windlass unless it is a big one. (You
actually have to do a lot of turns to wind down a car window - which is why
they are all electric these days.)
S
Steve Firth
>
> I think this would be a better combination:
>
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-12862-1--inch-White-Screw-in-Single-
> Wheel-Pulley-Pack-of-4.html
Kid's stuff, you want one of these:
Cicero
================================================
Very impressive, if just a little bit over the top, but *I* don't want
anything like it, or any other kind of outdoors washing line. I simply
suggested a possible better format for the OP.
The days of laundry collecting every form of passing pollution are
thankfully past for me . Drying indoors is hygienic and not subject to the
vagaries of the weather.
Appin
from mo <n...@nospam.com> contains these words:
> Hi All
> Just need soem help.
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-10995-17mm-Brass-Plated-Picture-
> Frame-Screw-Eyes-Pack-of-200.html
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-6225-100mm-Galvanized-Cleat-
> Hook.html
> Thanks
Is this a wind-up? Some of the replies are extraordinary.
Have you never seen typical American washing lines?
Everyone's coming at this from the wrong end.
The typical American line has two pulleys at a fixed height and a
continuous loop of wsahing line. Obviously joined with a tensioner --
like a small fence wire tensioner.
Don't get the line to go up and down -- get the person to go up and
down. Make a little platform of the appropriate height at the house
end. No moving parts.
Pin the clothes on the lower line and shove the line out as you put each
item on.
The bigger the pulleys are, the better. Reduces the chance of the
clothes winding themselves round the upper line and jamming the whole
thing.
The best one I ever saw was made by a car-mechanic friend. The pulleys
were a couple of old bicycle wheels minus the tyres. Great bearings.
No chance of clothes getting jammed over the top line.
spamlet
"Appin" <ap...@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3130303036363...@zetnet.co.uk...
Well if you are going to get that techy why not put the wheels on their side
and have a motor on one, so the washing goes round and round and dries even
if there is no wind. I expect someone has already done this... it's
rather like the way we used to hang printing plates on a production line...
S
stonem...@gmail.com
Weatherlawyer
> Hi All
>
> I have a concrete fence post and I have a house.
>
> I need to put up a washing line between these 2. I am going to use a
> pulley system so that the line can be made to go higher once the washign
> line has been made taut.
>
> Just need soem help.
>
> Presumably I need one end to be fixed and then the pulley on the other
> side.
>
> So if I buy one of these
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-12053-32mm-Galvanized-Line-
> Pulley.html
>
> Then fix it to the wall using one of these and the hook on the above
> thing
>
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-10995-17mm-Brass-Plated-Picture-
> Frame-Screw-Eyes-Pack-of-200.html
>
> Also have one of the above fixing the line at the other end.
>
> Is that it? Then all I need is maybe one of these to hold the line in
> place when its taut
>
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-6225-100mm-Galvanized-Cleat-
> Hook.html
>
>
>
> Which side would you put the pulley on?
> The house or fence post?
> I will have the highest pointing of the line level on both ends.
So what is the point?
> I spose its easier to fix things to the post than the house but it would mean
> walking to the end of the garden to control the pulley.
> Also when there is nothing on the line and you loosen the line,
> presumably it has to be quite a weightly wahsing line to come down of
> its own accord.
> Presumably a light washing liek will still just hang up?
I always presume that no matter how light it is the washing will hang down.
> Thanks
Thanks back, I always wanted to write like Rod Speed only making more sense. Ah well, off to read the 28 other replies but there may be even more by now.
Harry Bloomfield
However....
I used stainless flexible multi-strand wire, a galv pulley at each end.
With one pulley fixed at the far end, some 50 yards from the house. At
the house end, I used a very heavy counterweight via a third pulley
under the house eaves, with the weight suspended in a length of plastic
drain pipe to make it tidy.
The line goes so high when released, I had to devise a means to pull it
down to loading height - I made a hand cranked pulley to do that. The
section between the two pulleys is a loop, so all the washing can be
un/loaded on the line from one place and the line just rolled along.
Either end before and after the pulleys, I used a single wire rope,
with just the loop doubled.
One issue I have yet to resolve, is washing attached to the lower line,
being able to wrap itself over both lines of the loop, when its
extremely windy.
Weatherlawyer
I suppose it's better than having them in a wringer? Or cheaper.
You should never let fax stand in you way. They did use fax in those days I presume?
harry
> Hi All
>
> I have a concrete fence post and I have a house.
>
> I need to put up a washing line between these 2. I am going to use a
> pulley system so that the line can be made to go higher once the washign
> line has been made taut.
>
> Just need soem help.
>
> Presumably I need one end to be fixed and then the pulley on the other
> side.
>
> So if I buy one of these
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-12053-32mm-Galvanized-Line-
> Pulley.html
>
> Then fix it to the wall using one of these and the hook on the above
> thing
>
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-10995-17mm-Brass-Plated-Picture-
> Frame-Screw-Eyes-Pack-of-200.html
>
> Also have one of the above fixing the line at the other end.
>
> Is that it? Then all I need is maybe one of these to hold the line in
> place when its taut
>
> http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-6225-100mm-Galvanized-Cleat-
> Hook.html
>
>
>
> have the highest poitn of the line level on both ends. I spose its
> walking to the end of the garden to control the pulley.
>
> presumably it has to be quite a weightly wahsing line to come down of
>
> Thanks
Tch.
What you need is a clothes prop.
You don't need any fancy pulleys.
https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=clothes%20prop
Just lifts the line up in the middle.
Brian Gaff
treatment since the 2010 post?
Why would one put washing out in the rain?
The weight of a line full of bedding and the wind loading would make it
paramount that the line and its fixings were very solid indeed. also older
lines were made of rope which tended to shrink and expand depending on damp.
the plastic stuff stretched and broke so the wire cored stuff was the best
but was not as flexible and hard to tie off.
Really strange revitalised thread this one
Brian
--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"Weatherlawyer" <Weathe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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