So I fit the 'lower' lengths first, ie above the eaves, and these will
be nailed down obviously. Then the 'upper' lengths go on, overlapping
the lower lengths by 2-3 inches and covering the nail heads. Question -
should this overlap be fixed using just felt adhesive, or with nails (or
with both?) Have googled a bit about this and all three permutations
crop up and am not sure what;s for the best. I'm concerned that
adhesive alone won't hold the felt down and it will eventually succumb
to wind; however if I nail it then isn't that introducing a water track
into the roof timbers?
Thanks for any thoughts
David
I would use the Wickes self adhesive system, having used it to refelt
a flat roofed porch.
MBQ
Lower first - so the higher ones overlap over the lower.
> be nailed down obviously. Then the 'upper' lengths go on, overlapping
> the lower lengths by 2-3 inches and covering the nail heads. Question -
> should this overlap be fixed using just felt adhesive, or with nails (or
> with both?) Have googled a bit about this and all three permutations
> crop up and am not sure what;s for the best. I'm concerned that adhesive
> alone won't hold the felt down and it will eventually succumb to wind;
> however if I nail it then isn't that introducing a water track into the
> roof timbers?
If nailing, then you really need *three* layers for a proper job. A
hessian reinforced nailed layer - large clout nails in a random pattern
all over on a 6" spacing or there abouts. Then a fully bonded underlay
felt, then your top coat felt. Having done my first workshop like this,
I concluded that it worked very well, but was a PITA and very slow to do.
Much *much* simpler, is get a rubberised torch on felt - two layers, one
undercoat, and one top coat. Large f'off blowtorch - roll up the precut
felt, position on the roof and torch it as you unroll it. Sticks like
the proverbial to a blanket. Then do the top coat. The top coat has a
joining strip (about 4" of adhesive facing upwards and no chippings),
which you align with the overlap. This forms a very good seal between
the sheets.
--
Cheers,
John.
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Bitumen in solvent's pretty good. Nails do lift and let water in.
NT
I used adhesive but how about nails and gunge over the top of each?
Thanks, all. Reckon I'll go for the adhesive-only based solution
then... I'm sure the torch-on solution would be optimum, but in my case
the shed is only an old, pretty knackered garden one TBH and I don't
think worth spending much effort or dosh on; this is just a way of
wringing out just few more years of life, using some felt I already have
'in stock'!
David
> No nails, loads of gloop - is how I did it. Nails just around the
> vertical edges (and some gloop too).
No gloop, just nails here.
At least a 6" overlap. Top edge of underlying sheet nailed every 6"
or so. Bottom edge of top sheet nailed every 2". 1/2" hot dip
galvanised clouts (might have been 3/4"). Doesn't leak the felt seals
around the nails, haven't had the felt rip through or nails come
loose.
> But the felt didn;t come off and we get some pretty high winds here at
> times.
So do we, ordinary 8 x 6 garden shed. The orginal roof (2 sheets of
3/4" OSB plus a bit) was lifted off as unit and deposited 30 odd
yards away having cleared a 6' wall 10 yards from the shed and nearly
clearing a 4' one at 30 yards. A few years later the shed was empty
after being reclad and it was rolled, as unit, up against the wall
the roof cleared.
http://www.howhill.com/weather/view.php?t=p&y=2005&m=04&d=28
Said shed has now been fixed to the ground in each corner with 3cm
square stake driven in as far as possible (18" to 2') and bolted
through to the shed frame. It hasn't moved since and niether has the
the felt come off...
--
Cheers
Dave.
> Thanks, all. Reckon I'll go for the adhesive-only based solution then...
> I'm sure the torch-on solution would be optimum, but in my case the shed
> is only an old, pretty knackered garden one TBH and I don't think worth
> spending much effort or dosh on; this is just a way of wringing out just
> few more years of life, using some felt I already have 'in stock'!
I should have said felt + glue cost more than just torch on felt!
If you want a quick fix, just torch on a top coat over whatever is there.
Where are you getting cheap torchable? Wickes felt is only £13 for the
grotty stuff, and 5.99 for enough bitumen
http://tinyurl.com/34rmxsx
NT
I pay about £27 for 4mm SBS torch on usually[1]. Felt at £13 a roll
sounds like crappy 1 or 2mm shed felt - which lasts a couple of years if
you are lucky. The glue goes fairly fast as well if doing nail prep and
a couple of layers (I think I used about 10L for about 16m^2 of roof.
> grotty stuff, and 5.99 for enough bitumen
> http://tinyurl.com/34rmxsx
Yup. not quite the same!
[1] Last lot I got from Ashphaltic roofing - however that was not their
list price which was something silly like £54, buy a few rolls and the
price tumbles - then keep the receipt and make sure they always match
their better price in future.
yes, better stuff twice that
> The glue goes fairly fast as well if doing nail prep and
> a couple of layers (I think I used about 10L for about 16m^2 of roof.
>
> > grotty stuff, and 5.99 for enough bitumen
> >http://tinyurl.com/34rmxsx
>
> Yup. not quite the same!
>
> [1] Last lot I got from Ashphaltic roofing - however that was not their
> list price which was something silly like 54, buy a few rolls and the
> price tumbles - then keep the receipt and make sure they always match
> their better price in future.
>
might try that next time, cheers
NT
Well the list price is getting on for twice that - (4mm is the better
stuff, the cheaper stuff is 2mm usually)
>> [1] Last lot I got from Ashphaltic roofing - however that was not their
>> list price which was something silly like 54, buy a few rolls and the
>> price tumbles - then keep the receipt and make sure they always match
>> their better price in future.
>>
>
> might try that next time, cheers
It definitely works - a mate of mine was slapping a layer over his
existing flat roofs - so we ordered something like 25 rolls. And got a
decent price. He went back for an additional roll and got charged full
whack for it. So next time I went there I took both receipts and queried
it and promptly got a refund for the difference.
I use one of:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/fkp411-long-arm-gas-torch
However the main attraction of that is comfort working - you can stand
and kick the roll in front of you as you move forward (you play the heat
over top and leading edge of the roll and the surface at the same time
so they both go together hot).
You can easily get enough heat out of a smaller torch with a large end
on it. Say something like:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/fc108-gas-torch-with-nozzles
While this is handy for edges, and drips etc, it would not be a easy to
use for larger areas.
> Largest on a can, or something that needs a full-on caravan tank of propane
> and the torch is on a long rubber hose?
I use the smaller torch on the dinky 4.7 kg propane bottles. The big one
can run at up to 36kW IIRC, so that would probably be better on a 12kg
tank or larger unless you are only doing a couple of rolls.
Yup, with a wide nozel on the end it will produce the sort of flame you
need - you just need to stoop over (or work on your knees) to use it.
Avoid the technique demonstrated by a mate of mine though. He was
putting a torch on felt coving on a prefab/mobile home roof, wearing
light weight shoes and frayed jeans. He has got aformentioned f'off blow
torch in one hand, and was holding something else in the other. He was
getting into a spot of bother when he worked out the ill fitting jeans
were slowly falling down as he walked forward. In an effort to pull them
up he manage to set fire to the frayed ends of the legs! Then begins the
panic "mooning dance" for the spectators! He passed the lit torch to the
lass who was helping him on the roof, but basically she was too
convulsed with laughter to be much further help.