Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
Fred
I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use
glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring
nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the
point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and
quick enough to use without nails to help it?
Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else?
I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own
product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other
brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of
thing more or less the same?
Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam?
Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards?
TIA
Jim K
unless small lengths that are *actually* flat/straight, screws/nails
(and filler to hide heads) would be my method of choice.
Cheers
Jim K
stuart noble
> Hello,
>
> I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use
> glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring
> nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the
> point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and
> quick enough to use without nails to help it?
>
> Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else?
>
> I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own
> product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other
> brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of
> thing more or less the same?
All much the same IME. The solvent based types cure faster but are more
difficult to clean off adjoining surfaces
Spamlet
"Fred" <fr...@no-email.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:bv0g66ho2i29m6js4...@4ax.com...
Now that we have power screw drivers and drills, and plastic rawplugs, by
far the easiest way is screws. Don't glue the boards, especially not with
the awful chewing gum stuff like 'pink grip/gripfill' etc. If you ever need
to rub down the boards for painting, or remove them for getting at
floorboards or wiring, a couple of whizzes with the power screwdriver and
you are ready for action: with nails and or glue, you are going to damage
the board and the wall getting it off, or spend a back breaking exhausting
time on hands and knees, working on them while still fixed. Get some nice
wood, smooth and varnish it and make it a feature. If your wall is
particularly undulating and there are gaps, either run a line of decorator's
caulk along the gap, or overlap the wallpaper a little to cover the gap.
S
The Medway Handyman
<SNIP>
>
> Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards?
If you force a skirting board to follow an uneven wall by using nails or
screws it doesn't look very good. Better to glue the board where it does
touch the wall & fill any gaps with caulk.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
stuart noble
> Fred wrote:
> <SNIP>
>>
>> Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards?
>
> If you force a skirting board to follow an uneven wall by using nails or
> screws it doesn't look very good. Better to glue the board where it does
>
>
Or with Gripfil
Roger Mills
I've stuck lots of skirting board with Gripfill - and it's fine. It's
particularly good in situations where you want to paint the skirting
before fitting - for example to avoid getting paint on new wooden
floors. You may still need the occasional screw or nail in places where
the wall and board are not the same shape - or you can sometimes hold it
in place while the Gripfill cures by jamming with a length of timber
running to an opposite wall, particularly in narrow hallways etc.
I've recently been using Pinkgrip for another job because I ran out of
Gripfill and my local BM only stocks Pinkgrip. My impression - based on
not very much experience - is that Pinkgrip isn't as good as Gripfill -
particularly when trying to get it flowing again after several days of
non-use.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.
martop
I've tried solvent free pink grip for my skirting and it didn't stick
that good, for some reason it wont stick to the plaster here :-( screws
fixed it.
Solvent based stuff wasn't too hot either but dual thread screws work
wonders ! As mentioned, don't force the skirting to follow the wall, it
looks awful, fill gaps with ermmm filler.
--
Mart
Spamlet
"martop" <mar...@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:i49i1l$euk$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall.
S
Dave Liquorice
> Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a
> wall.
Presumably because it's quick. Squidge some goop onto the board shove
into place, wait a few minutes, job done. Far quicker than screws and
plugs long enough to reach the real wall or if it's a stud wall
locating the studs.
I use a pair of screws every 4' or so, if the wall is straight
enough, otherwise where the skirting and wall meet.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Tim Watts
I used 5mm x 50mm screws for mine with good plugs and it was both pretty
easy and vwery efgective. 1 screw every 2-3 ft worked for me.
--
Tim Watts
The Medway Handyman
Quick & cheap. Another reason - when I did my lounge/diner about 15 years
ago I got through about 6 masonry bits because the walls are cement rendered
not plastered - common around here in 50's built houses. Didn't have an SDS
at the time, right PITA drilling & plugging.
Spamlet
"Tim Watts" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:2028720783303604400...@news.eternal-september.org...
Same here: no need for goo at all. I even like to leave the screws neatly
lined up and painted a different colour - though now I have a supply of 3"
brass ones I might go that way next time.
S
Spamlet
"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:wA_9o.76791$Tj3.44031@hurricane...
Ah you've got me there. My old house used to just bounce the drills for me
too, and I had to use a lump hammer and rawlplug tool and mole grips to make
holes. Bit different now: but we didn't have much in the way of glue in
those days either... Perhaps that is why the rooms used quarter dowel
(Nailed to the concrete floor) instead of skirting...
S
John Rumm
>
> I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use
> glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring
> nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the
> point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and
> quick enough to use without nails to help it?
Nails / screws have alot to be said for them on this app!
Glue sometimes works on very flat walls with nice flat skirting.
> Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else?
There are others that seem quite good as well.
> I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own
> product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other
> brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of
> thing more or less the same?
No, some are crap - Wickes "forget nails" being one!
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
John Rumm
> <SNIP>
>>
>> Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards?
>
> If you force a skirting board to follow an uneven wall by using nails or
> screws it doesn't look very good. Better to glue the board where it does
I agree about keeping the board straight - no need to draw people eye to
a wonky wall!
You can use screws at the high points though.
D.M.Chapman
John Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>> I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own
>> product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other
>> brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of
>> thing more or less the same?
>
>No, some are crap - Wickes "forget nails" being one!
The solvent free eco one is yes, the full fat nasty fume one has been
one of the better IME. Of course, that's assuming they haven't changed
it recently...
Darren
Fred
<jk98...@googlemail.com> wrote:
>unless small lengths that are *actually* flat/straight, screws/nails
>(and filler to hide heads) would be my method of choice.
Thanks. Nails have always been my method but having very sandy
browning behind the skirting board has meant I have needed to use big
nails to reach the block behind it. It seems crazy having to use three
inch nails for skirting board! Then there's the hassle of having to
fill over the head and any dents where the hammer missed ;) Then
having to sand it before painting.
If I have used a cut clasp nail too near the edge, I've had one or two
boards split. I've heard a lot of people recommend gluing but never
seen it done. Like you, I doubt it would be effective where the walls
aren't straight and don't most walls fall into that category?
Having read so many replies against glue, I think I will stick with
the nailing.
Thanks.
Fred
<stuart...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>All much the same IME. The solvent based types cure faster but are more
>difficult to clean off adjoining surfaces
Thanks. I did wonder whether a solvent type might work faster but when
I read two tubes of toolstation's glue screws they both said something
along the lines of allow 24 hours to cure. That's a long time to have
to hold the boards in place whilst the glue sets.
Fred
<spam.m...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>Now that we have power screw drivers and drills, and plastic rawplugs, by
>far the easiest way is screws.
[...]
> If you ever need
>to rub down the boards for painting, or remove them for getting at
>floorboards or wiring, a couple of whizzes with the power screwdriver and
>you are ready for action:
I have heard of people using screws but I thought you countersunk and
filled over them, like you would with nails. Done that way, I would
think the boards would be harder to remove than ones that were nailed.
It sounds as though you leave your screws exposed? I haven't seen that
done before. I can imagine brass screws on a dark wood may look nice
but I'm not so sure about painted boards.
Ours are white and I don't know how I could make screws look pretty
against that. I suppose I could cover them with those plastic caps but
that wouldn't be ideal. OTOH how often do you need to remove a
skirting board though? To add a socket, usually you can drill behind
it.
Thanks.
Fred
wrote:
>I've recently been using Pinkgrip for another job because I ran out of
>Gripfill and my local BM only stocks Pinkgrip. My impression - based on
>not very much experience - is that Pinkgrip isn't as good as Gripfill -
Thanks. I realised that the claims on the everbuild web site were
biased, so I wanted an independent opinion. Thanks again.
stuart noble
I used the TS solvent based one yesterday on some door architrave. It
certainly sets hard on your fingers within half an hour :-)
I can't see the point of fixings on anything that doesn't need it. How
often do people take their skirting off? Don't answer that
Dave Liquorice
> OTOH how often do you need to remove a skirting board though?
Not often but with screws just use a metal detector to find 'em under
the filler, unscrew, break the caulking along the top edge and lift
away. Nails lots of prising, head pulling through board, damage to
board from prising... Gripfill, rip off old board, dispose, clean
up/repatch damaged wall fit new board...
--
Cheers
Dave.
stuart noble
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:54:12 +0100, Fred wrote:
>
>> OTOH how often do you need to remove a skirting board though?
>
> Not often but
Not ever IME
Roger Mills
Well you might, if you want to do a proper job when fitting laminate
(ugh!) or engineered or hardwood flooring.
Tim Watts
wibbled on Monday 16 August 2010 00:18
I cut some little wooden plugs and fitted those with just a drop of PVA,
chiselled off and went over the skirting with oil. The plugs are hardly
visible, but you could find them if required and remove them (I tried one to
prove a point).
Wasn't much trouble. Gripfill would be much faster, iff and only off
everything goes together without requiring any clamping, otherwise it might
be just as much effort. I chose 5mm x 50mm so I could pull the boards into
the slight curves in the wall.
--
Tim Watts
Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.
Spamlet
Actually it is all arbitrary because even if you put wood filler over the
screw holes it is the work of seconds to see it and pop it out with a
bradawl.
S
stuart noble
much filling (or Gripfilling) you have to do behind it. It's about
creating the illusion of straightness.
Fred
<allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote:
>
>Not often but with screws just use a metal detector to find 'em under
>the filler, unscrew, break the caulking along the top edge and lift
>away
I think covering the screws with wooden caps is a good idea, as is
using a metal detector and bradawl to remove filler but really do
skirting boards need to be removed that often? Roger suggested the
installation of a wooden floor but that's a one-off. If you install a
new floor once in a blue moon, isn't it easier just to replace the
skirting board at that point?
I'll see what I've got in the garage. I think nails might be quicker
as there is no need to pre drill a hole, as you would need to if using
plugs.
Thanks again everyone.
Fred
<stuart...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>I used the TS solvent based one yesterday on some door architrave. It
>certainly sets hard on your fingers within half an hour :-)
>I can't see the point of fixings on anything that doesn't need it.
I think I misread the tubes. IIRC they both say allow 48-72 hours for
full adhesive effect but having looked more closely at the tube today,
it does say on the solvent one that it will work within 10-15 minutes.
I can't remember what the solvent free one says as the tube ran out
and got thrown away last time. I always thought the solvent version
must work faster, otherwise what's the point of having two types? Or
is the idea that a solvent version is waterproof?
Anyway, the only wall I had straight enough to glue the skirting
boards onto was the stud wall I have recently put up; everything else
was too curvy! I managed to use 2" nails to hammer the skirting boards
onto all but one of the walls.
The final wall is an external wall of some sort of breeze block
covered in sandy browning. Round nails simply won't hold in the block,
so I have to use cut clasp nails. However, even then they don't always
hold. The longest ones I could find were 65mm from tool station;
perhaps I should look harder for some longer ones? The problem with
the cut clasp nails is that they seem to split the boards. After I had
turned a lovely new board into something looking like cheese, I
decided to try screws!
Previously I had thought it would be a lot of hassle to drill a hole,
then drill a countersink, then insert a plug, and finally screw but I
spotted some 4" frame fixings in the garage and used two of those and
whacked them in! It didn't allow for fine adjustment suggested by THM;
the board is pulled against the wall but at least the dam thing is
finally securely in place! I can't believe it should take a 4" screw
to hold some skirting board! Are my walls unusually bad or does
everyone else have the same problem? Is there any reason that frame
fixings/hammer fixings can't be used, they seem quicker than using
separate screws and plugs.
Thanks again.
The Medway Handyman
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:49:54 +0100, stuart noble
> <stuart...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>> I used the TS solvent based one yesterday on some door architrave. It
>> certainly sets hard on your fingers within half an hour :-)
>> I can't see the point of fixings on anything that doesn't need it.
>
> I think I misread the tubes. IIRC they both say allow 48-72 hours for
> full adhesive effect but having looked more closely at the tube today,
> it does say on the solvent one that it will work within 10-15 minutes.
> I can't remember what the solvent free one says as the tube ran out
> and got thrown away last time. I always thought the solvent version
> must work faster, otherwise what's the point of having two types? Or
> is the idea that a solvent version is waterproof?
I think solvent based was the original formulation, then they realised it
would melt some plastics, so a solvent free was introduced.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
Spamlet
"Fred" <fr...@no-email.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8jjo66ph3mojavrv2...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:49:54 +0100, stuart noble
> <stuart...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
> The final wall is an external wall of some sort of breeze block
> covered in sandy browning. Round nails simply won't hold in the block,
> so I have to use cut clasp nails. However, even then they don't always
> hold. The longest ones I could find were 65mm from tool station;
> perhaps I should look harder for some longer ones? The problem with
> the cut clasp nails is that they seem to split the boards. After I had
> turned a lovely new board into something looking like cheese, I
> decided to try screws!
So long as the nails are blunt, they are supposed to crush the wood fibres
rather than push them out of the way and split the board. As with the
recent post on floor boards, whether this is actually likely to be
sufficient safeguard, rather depends on how carefully you have chosen the
wood: as noted, the stuff in the sheds tends to be rubbish. With nails you
are not just giving the wood a pounding, but also the plaster and the brick
work behind it, and as you have found, there is no guarantee that the nails
will hold in the wall even then. Screws, on the other hand, are easy,
nowadays.
>
> Previously I had thought it would be a lot of hassle to drill a hole,
> then drill a countersink,
No, you can buy a pilot with counterink built in cheaply from Screwfix.
Then you just put your screws through the board, hold it against the wall;
tap each screw with a hammer to mark the wall; put the board down; drill and
plug your masonry and whizz whizz you are done. No messy glue, no dents, no
splits, easy to remove should you need to do so. Covers available for the
screws in a number of colours or simply fill with 'plastic wood'.
then insert a plug, and finally screw but I
> spotted some 4" frame fixings in the garage and used two of those and
> whacked them in! It didn't allow for fine adjustment suggested by THM;
> the board is pulled against the wall but at least the dam thing is
> finally securely in place! I can't believe it should take a 4" screw
> to hold some skirting board! Are my walls unusually bad or does
> everyone else have the same problem? Is there any reason that frame
> fixings/hammer fixings can't be used, they seem quicker than using
> separate screws and plugs.
Hammer fixings are just more expensive and, as the sleeve flares out on top
of the board, it would not normally be easy to lift the board again without
damage, but as your masonry is so soft it will probably still be easy to
lift it with a flat pry bar should you feel the need (the plaster may come
with it though. On old walls and plaster, minimum disturbance is sensible,
and that may mean not even using the hammer setting on your drill. If the
masonry really is powdery you may find it useul to squirt some pva or
polyfiller in the hole before you insert the plug.
S
>
> Thanks again.