converting old outhouse - insulation problem
Nathan Searle
Was wondering if you could help me with a problem?Attached to the back of
our house is an old single brick thickness outhouse, I wish to turn this in
to a games / office room.
The problem is insulating the outhouse, I have brought a load of 2x1
battening as suggested by local timber merchants and started attaching this
to the wall. I am now a bit concerned as i haven`t thought about the
insulation, my first intention was to use something similar to loft
insulation in between the battens and then plasterboard over the top. But
although the room doesn`t appear damp I would hate for any damp to get
through to the plasterboard and ruin the finish. What do you all suggest I
should do to insulate the room?
My first thought was to have brick--> insulation between the battens -->
then a plastic vapour barrier --> then plasterboard, would this work? or
could the insulation get wet and soggy?
And then I read about celotex and thought this would work in that I fix it
to the battens and then plasterboard on top, but celotex is expensive - but
if it works then I may go for it.
So open to you all what should I do...
Many Thanks
Nathan
Sorry for the long post.
John Stumbles
news:VFE4c.751$nw1.95@newsfe1-win...
I'd use some sort of damp proof membrane between battens and wall to keep
the battens dry if the wall is damp. You could use 25mm polystyrene with
your existing battens - not as good as Kingspan/Celotex but it'd probably
take you a couple of lifetimes for the better insulation to pay back its
higher cost in reduced heatloss. When I were a lad we never 'ad this fancy
iso-wotsit stuff and polystyrene was considered next best to a thermos flask
for insulation. You could even double up your battens (or buy thicker ones)
and use 50mm polystyrene and it'd prolly still you less than one sheet of
celotex.
Nathan Searle
Should I put a membrane in between the batons/polystyrene and the
plasterboard? Also should I use some waterproof type paint on the insdide of
the bricks ?
Or am I just worrying too much!!
Many Thanks
Nathan
"John Stumbles" <john.s...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
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John Stumbles
> "John Stumbles" <john.s...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:73G4c.4025$1h7....@newsfep4-glfd.server.ntli.net...
> > "Nathan Searle" <nat...@componics.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:VFE4c.751$nw1.95@newsfe1-win...
> > > My first thought was to have brick--> insulation between the
> Thanks for your reply , does it matter if the polystyrene touches the
wall?
Nope, it won't soak up water
> Should I put a membrane in between the batons/polystyrene and the
> plasterboard?
Yes that's your vapour control layer (aka vapour barrier) - as per your
original plan.
> so should I use some waterproof type paint on the insdide of
> the bricks ?
Nope
> Or am I just worrying too much!!
Yup :-)
Alan Campbell
I think it would also be prudent to ensure ventilation.
When I did my house, the architect specified a stud frame fixed to the
ceiling and floor joists which doesn't actually touch the wall. It has
insulation bats between the studs and is ventillated by the air
underneath the floor flowing up to the roof space. (My walls are 2'
thick so I couldn't easily put vents into the wall but you could...)
I also fitted foil backed plasterboard to give me a vapour barrier.
I would also minimise your chances of damp problems and make sure the
outhouse has a DPC/DPM and that there are no leaking gutters etc.
Alan
"Nathan Searle" <nat...@componics.co.uk> wrote in message news:<VFE4c.751$nw1.95@newsfe1-win>...