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Insulating under 2nd floor, overhanging open air
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Piers
Aug 3, 2013, 5:48:18 AM8/3/13
to
Like someone else who posted here recently, I have a bit of second floor
which slightly overhangs the rest of the building (essentially in front
of the front door, making a covered but open porch area). I have
seriously considered a boiling oil hatch, but think I might leave that
for another day.
Currently I just have the joists there. I need to insulate it, and
cover it up, so what I was planning to do was:
- Screw some kingspan to the underside of the joists, to ensure the
joists don't act as a cold bridge.
- Screw some ply under the kingspan to cover it.
- Add some additional insulation between the joists, above the kingspan.
In fact I have a bunch of plasterboard backed kingspan offcuts that I
might use here, so would attach it plasterboard side up (so plasterboard
side faces upwards).
Does this sound like a sensible approach?
Piers
which slightly overhangs the rest of the building (essentially in front
of the front door, making a covered but open porch area). I have
seriously considered a boiling oil hatch, but think I might leave that
for another day.
Currently I just have the joists there. I need to insulate it, and
cover it up, so what I was planning to do was:
- Screw some kingspan to the underside of the joists, to ensure the
joists don't act as a cold bridge.
- Screw some ply under the kingspan to cover it.
- Add some additional insulation between the joists, above the kingspan.
In fact I have a bunch of plasterboard backed kingspan offcuts that I
might use here, so would attach it plasterboard side up (so plasterboard
side faces upwards).
Does this sound like a sensible approach?
Piers
harryagain
Aug 3, 2013, 1:49:59 PM8/3/13
to
"Piers" <ne...@packom.net> wrote in message
news:51fcd1e2$0$1163$5b6a...@news.zen.co.uk...
Important too that there are no gaps.
Leave a space and fill with canned foam.
Andrew Gabriel
Aug 4, 2013, 8:01:46 AM8/4/13
to
In article <51fcd1e2$0$1163$5b6a...@news.zen.co.uk>,
I lifted the floorboards above my porch, and laid fibreglass loft
insulation on top of the porch ceiling, but it sounds like you don't
have a porch ceiling? If so, do you want the timbers to still be
visible (are they part of the building style/design)? How deep are
they?
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
insulation on top of the porch ceiling, but it sounds like you don't
have a porch ceiling? If so, do you want the timbers to still be
visible (are they part of the building style/design)? How deep are
they?
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Hugo Nebula
Aug 4, 2013, 3:35:31 PM8/4/13
to
[Default] On Sat, 03 Aug 2013 10:48:18 +0100, a certain chimpanzee,
are recommended for exposed floors. The use of impermeable materials
can hold water, especially from leaks or spills. Thermal bridging
through the joists is likely to be low; it's more likely to occur in
the walls if they carry up above the bottom of the joists - the outer
leaf suddenly becomes an inner leaf.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have I strayed"?
Piers <ne...@packom.net>, randomly hit the keyboard and wrote:
>Like someone else who posted here recently, I have a bit of second floor
>which slightly overhangs the rest of the building
>Like someone else who posted here recently, I have a bit of second floor
>which slightly overhangs the rest of the building
>- Screw some kingspan to the underside of the joists, to ensure the
>joists don't act as a cold bridge.
Insulation and soffits with a low vapour permeability (e.g., rockwool)
>joists don't act as a cold bridge.
are recommended for exposed floors. The use of impermeable materials
can hold water, especially from leaks or spills. Thermal bridging
through the joists is likely to be low; it's more likely to occur in
the walls if they carry up above the bottom of the joists - the outer
leaf suddenly becomes an inner leaf.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have I strayed"?
Piers
Aug 6, 2013, 3:16:22 AM8/6/13
to
On 04/08/2013 20:35, Hugo Nebula wrote:
> [Default] On Sat, 03 Aug 2013 10:48:18 +0100, a certain chimpanzee,
> Piers <ne...@packom.net>, randomly hit the keyboard and wrote:
>
>> Like someone else who posted here recently, I have a bit of second floor
>> which slightly overhangs the rest of the building
>
>> - Screw some kingspan to the underside of the joists, to ensure the
>> joists don't act as a cold bridge.
>
> Insulation and soffits with a low vapour permeability (e.g., rockwool)
> are recommended for exposed floors. The use of impermeable materials
> can hold water, especially from leaks or spills. Thermal bridging
> through the joists is likely to be low; it's more likely to occur in
> the walls if they carry up above the bottom of the joists - the outer
> leaf suddenly becomes an inner leaf.
>
Useful comments - thanks. I'd already planned on treating the
> [Default] On Sat, 03 Aug 2013 10:48:18 +0100, a certain chimpanzee,
> Piers <ne...@packom.net>, randomly hit the keyboard and wrote:
>
>> Like someone else who posted here recently, I have a bit of second floor
>> which slightly overhangs the rest of the building
>
>> - Screw some kingspan to the underside of the joists, to ensure the
>> joists don't act as a cold bridge.
>
> Insulation and soffits with a low vapour permeability (e.g., rockwool)
> are recommended for exposed floors. The use of impermeable materials
> can hold water, especially from leaks or spills. Thermal bridging
> through the joists is likely to be low; it's more likely to occur in
> the walls if they carry up above the bottom of the joists - the outer
> leaf suddenly becomes an inner leaf.
>
external->internal wall as an external wall for its entire height. But
yes, it seems like i should use something permable for insulation and
then to cover.
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