Hover Mower Blade Removal
Wingedcat
mower with a metal blade that I want to remove as it has got badly
bent. However removing the blade is proving a little difficult.
The blade is held in place with a plastic (nylon?) bolt. I've tried
using the classic "Flymo" spanner (same size) on it but it broke (!).
Then I tried doing the same with an different spanner turning in a
clockwise direction. Logically, the bolt undoes clockwise, due the
direction of rotation of the motor, but I'm not sure if this is
actually the case. I didn't break a second spanner!
Then I tried mole grips on the bolt, and a length of scaffold pole
over the blade, and squeezed the two together. This resulted in the
blade turning on the shaft, and the bolt staying put.
What do you reckon I have to do to remove it? I am reluctant to wedge
anything in the motor itself, as the casing is plastic, and I suspect
it would just crack. I *could* try holding the plastic fan thing (I
believe it is known as an impellor) just under the blade, but this
doesn't look too strong either.
I'm thinking about just hacksawing off the bolt and dealing with the
aftermath later. What do you reckon?
Thanks
Luke
Preston
> Hi, I've got a Black and Decker (approx. 20 years old) electric hover
> mower with a metal blade that I want to remove as it has got badly
> bent. However removing the blade is proving a little difficult.
>
> The blade is held in place with a plastic (nylon?) bolt. I've tried
> using the classic "Flymo" spanner (same size) on it but it broke (!).
> Then I tried doing the same with an different spanner turning in a
> clockwise direction. Logically, the bolt undoes clockwise, due the
> direction of rotation of the motor, but I'm not sure if this is
> actually the case. I didn't break a second spanner!
>
> Then I tried mole grips on the bolt, and a length of scaffold pole
> over the blade, and squeezed the two together. This resulted in the
> blade turning on the shaft, and the bolt staying put.
>
> What do you reckon I have to do to remove it?
Turn it the right way - which is anti-clockwise.
--
Krusty
chudford
My Flymo undoes anticlockwise.
Scabbydug
"Wingedcat" <wing...@fsmail.net> wrote in message
news:00a57d7f-cde4-4aba...@n4g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
There's a normal steel bolt head embedded in the nylon nut you describe, cut
the nylon away and use a normal ring spanner.
Jules
> Logically, the bolt undoes clockwise, due the
> direction of rotation of the motor, but I'm not sure if this is
> actually the case.
Can't you see any of the threads in order to verify that?
> I'm thinking about just hacksawing off the bolt and dealing with the
> aftermath later. What do you reckon?
If the plastic bit is just covering a regular nut as someone else said,
ditch the plastic and then try heating the metal nut with a blowtorch;
sometimes doing so one one of two components that are stuck together can
work wonders...
(obviously heating the plastic nut won't get you very far ;)
cheers
Jules
Wingedcat
> "Wingedcat" <winged...@fsmail.net> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Hmm yes but that won't help, as it will still end up rotating the
shaft as I have nothing to brace against.
See:
> > Then I tried mole grips on the bolt, and a length of scaffold pole
> > over the blade, and squeezed the two together. This resulted in the
> > blade turning on the shaft, and the bolt staying put.
I am able to rotate the bolt with mole grips, but have nothing to
counter-hold to prevent the motor from turning too.
TheScullster
"Wingedcat" wrote
Hmm yes but that won't help, as it will still end up rotating the
shaft as I have nothing to brace against.
See:
> > Then I tried mole grips on the bolt, and a length of scaffold pole
> > over the blade, and squeezed the two together. This resulted in the
> > blade turning on the shaft, and the bolt staying put.
I am able to rotate the bolt with mole grips, but have nothing to
counter-hold to prevent the motor from turning too.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
In these situations it is usual to try and use the inertia of the secured
object.
That is hit the free end of the spanner very sharply to undo the nut (making
absolutely sure you know which way "undo" is of course).
This becomes less effective as the stationary part becomes easier to turn
IYSWIM.
Phil
Stuart Noble
> I am able to rotate the bolt with mole grips, but have nothing to
> counter-hold to prevent the motor from turning too.
The usual way round that is to hit the grips with a hammer, one short
sharp whack. Hopefully the thread turns faster than the motor for an
instant.
I'll add my hunch that it should go counter clockwise. I've never known
one that didn't, but maybe the manual will confirm that.
R
"Wingedcat" <wing...@fsmail.net> wrote in message
news:00a57d7f-cde4-4aba...@n4g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
Stand the unit on its side and use a wedge of wood between the blade and the
case or slide a tube over it and wedge it in the ground before undoing the
bolt in a normal direction
Wingedcat
> "Wingedcat" <winged...@fsmail.net> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
No good because although the blade is held still in the manner you
describe, the bolt turns with the motor with the blade spinning on its
shaft.
Dave
As another poster said, hold the blade with whatever and whack the
spanner/mole grips with a heavy hammer, putting the mole grips/hammer
back into horiziontal position and you should get enough purchase to get
the fastener loose and out with a few whacks.
Being a mower, it is likely that there has been a build up of rust on
it. You could try using WD 40 on it 24 hours before though.
Have you got a paint sripper heat gun? You could try heating it up with
that until you smell the plastic? Try using that as well.
Dave
Harry Stottle
>
> No good because although the blade is held still in the manner you
> describe, the bolt turns with the motor with the blade spinning on its
> shaft.
>
>
It sounds like you need is a 12v impact wrench, the sort sold for removing
car wheel studs, and appropriate socket.
R
AH!,
So it's out out the angle grinder then
Wingedcat
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, that's what I did, literally, in the end. I cut off the plastic
(nylon) with a Stanley knife, ground off the bolt head with an angle
grinder, then could lift away the blade and the impellor. I actually
straightened out the blade and then sharpened it up withe the angle
grinder but the extremely friendly proprietor of the local "sells
absolutely everything" ironmonger persuaded me a new blade and a new
bolt. Put the whole lot back together and it's as good as new (I
hope!!!). Total cost £12.
Luke
Chris J Dixon
>Yep, that's what I did, literally, in the end. I cut off the plastic
>(nylon) with a Stanley knife, ground off the bolt head with an angle
>grinder, then could lift away the blade and the impellor. I actually
>straightened out the blade and then sharpened it up withe the angle
>grinder but the extremely friendly proprietor of the local "sells
>absolutely everything" ironmonger persuaded me a new blade and a new
>bolt. Put the whole lot back together and it's as good as new (I
>hope!!!). Total cost �12.
>
Glad you managed it. Just for completeness, how did you remove
the remains of the previously stuck bolt in order to fit the new
one?
Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
ch...@cdixon.me.uk
Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.
Harry Stottle
Yep, that's what I did, literally, in the end. I cut off the plastic
(nylon) with a Stanley knife, ground off the bolt head with an angle
grinder, then could lift away the blade and the impellor. I actually
straightened out the blade and then sharpened it up withe the angle
grinder
Don't risk using a straightened blade in the mower. I did that once for a
neighbour and the blade broke whilst in use, propelling the snapped off
straightened part through the plastic skirt, just missing her foot.
Wingedcat
> Wingedcat wrote:
> >Yep, that's what I did, literally, in the end. I cut off the plastic
> >(nylon) with a Stanley knife, ground off the bolt head with an angle
> >grinder, then could lift away the blade and the impellor. I actually
> >straightened out the blade and then sharpened it up withe the angle
> >grinder but the extremely friendly proprietor of the local "sells
> >absolutely everything" ironmonger persuaded me a new blade and a new
> >bolt. Put the whole lot back together and it's as good as new (I
> >hope!!!). Total cost £12.
>
> Glad you managed it. Just for completeness, how did you remove
> the remains of the previously stuck bolt in order to fit the new
> one?
>
> Chris
> --
away the head of the bolt), I was able to hold the impeller with my
bare hands and turn the remains with a pair of mole grips fairly
easily.
Stuart Noble
In which direction? :-)
Wingedcat
Put the whole lot back together and it's as good as new (I
> >>> hope!!!). Total cost £12.
> >> Glad you managed it. Just for completeness, how did you remove
> >> the remains of the previously stuck bolt in order to fit the new
> >> one?
>
> >> Chris
> >> --
> > AH! Well, once I had "released the pressure" so to speak (by cutting
> > away the head of the bolt), I was able to hold the impeller with my
> > bare hands and turn the remains with a pair of mole grips fairly
> > easily.
>
> In which direction? :-)
Anti-clockwise! (as I think others may have suggested). Some websites,
mostly American, suggested LH thread was a possibility, but in the end
no, it was standard anti-clockwise to undo.
Luke
greg...@gmail.com
I eventually put the machine upside down in the sun
Then sprayed it liberally with yet more WD40. Then
I chocked the blade with a big chunk of wood, and got
The longest bar-clamp I have (about 1m). After an hour
In the sun I used the clamp as a spanner, and it came
Off without effort.
Greg
Rod Speed
Is your lawn in a greenhouse ?
andrewj...@gmail.com
AJKM
Somewhere in France
Brian Gaff
the lawn. Who designs these things.
Brian
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