Is there an accepted way of doing this - maybe with two wires (twisted
together or not?) in one side of the crimp and one (perhaps doubled
back?) in the other side?
Or maybe you can get Y-shaped crimps? [If so I've never seen one].
Advice please!
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
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http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Wago/index.html
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
I don't see why not
as it happens, I've just repaired an appliance which has two wires and a
capacitor crimped together in one
--
geoff
I have crimped 3 cables by pushing two cables in to one end and then putting
the third cable into the other end with a short piece of wire to bulk out
the connector. Doubling the cable over usually means the cable will not fit
into the crimp.
If the cables you wish to join are not two big then put all three into a
closed end terminal and crimp them up.
Or, as TMH has pointed out, Wago connectors. I am using the HelaCon Plus
connectors at the moment which are similar to Wago and they are just superb.
Cheers
Adam
You could do that. You would need to do a "tug test" to ensure that the
crimp was working, but in the main, if the crimp is reasonably "full"
before you crimp it, you should be OK every time.
Twisting together is not necessary other than to ensure that you don't
have stray strands.
>
> Or maybe you can get Y-shaped crimps? [If so I've never seen one].
>
> Advice please!
Scotchlok possibly with heatshrink,
or solder with heatshrink,
or piggyback crimp possibly with heatshrink.
You can also get y-shaped heatshrink boots, but they cost an absolute
fortune:
> I'm quite familiar with crimping cables end to end, but have an
> application where I would like to create a branch - which would involve
> joining *three* cables together rather than two.
>
> Is there an accepted way of doing this - maybe with two wires (twisted
> together or not?) in one side of the crimp and one (perhaps doubled
> back?) in the other side?
>
> Or maybe you can get Y-shaped crimps? [If so I've never seen one].
>
> Advice please!
==============================================================================
You can also use a chocblock to achieve the same result.
Cic.
--
===============================================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===============================================================================
Check the website brand "SWA", I think they carry the crimps & tools.
For cost reasons it is probably cheaper to use one of the alternative
solutions, ie, TLC Direct.
Don't need to twist.
If you you are, say, crimping 3 1mm² cables, you'll probably need
a 2.5mm² crimp. For the end which only has one 1mm² conductor,
fold the conductor over to double up the tickness for better crimping.
I do the same if I'm joining a 2.5mm² to a 1mm² with crimps.
> Or maybe you can get Y-shaped crimps? [If so I've never seen one].
You can get blind end crimps where you put several conductors all
in the same end.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
That would work - except that it's going to end up in an inaccessible
location inside a stud partition[1], so is not really recommended.
[1] I have a 1.0 or 1.5mm T&E cable which goes to a wall light. I want
to do away with the existing light[2], and replace it with two lights in
different positions by connecting two cables to this single cable - and
then sealing up the existing hole.
[2] The existing light - which is totally unsuitable for *any* bathroom
zone, is on a wall at the side of a bath, and is low enough to be in
Zone 1! Although against all the current regs(!) this has not been too
much of a hazard in the past, but will shortly become one when my
newly-installed over-bath shower becomes operational! I propose to
install two Zone 2 lamps - one higher up and the other further along, so
that neither is in Zone 1 - but need to extend the wiring to make this
possible.
> [1] I have a 1.0 or 1.5mm T&E cable which goes to a wall light. I want
> to do away with the existing light[2], and replace it with two lights in
> different positions by connecting two cables to this single cable - and
> then sealing up the existing hole.
Is that going to be OK from a cable-zoning point of view? Ie the
corners/above accessories/etc rules.
I must admit that some years ago, before I knew of these requirements, I
similarly did away with a wall light and filled the hole, leaving a
non-compliant live wire buried inside a smooth wall.
Pete
Dunno, and I'm not too bothered! The cables are inside a 4" thick stud
partition, and ain't going to come to much harm - whatever the regs say!
Thanks for the link. Which of the connectors on that page did you have
in mind?
I'm a bit confused by the descriptions because each connector is
variously described as e.g. "3 pole" or "3 conductor" - and they don't
mean the same thing in my book.[1] Clarification, anyone?
[1] I would assume 3 pole to mean 3 separate connections for e.g. L, N &
E - whereas 3 conductor would mean 3 wires all joined together. Which do
TLC mean?
A 3 pole Wago connector makes an electrical connection between three
conductors.
So to join 3 T&E cables together you will need 3 three pole Wago connectors.
Cheers
Adam
The WA 104 would work, just has a spare terminal. HelaCon do a 3 way.
> I'm a bit confused by the descriptions because each connector is
> variously described as e.g. "3 pole" or "3 conductor" - and they don't
> mean the same thing in my book.[1] Clarification, anyone?
>
> [1] I would assume 3 pole to mean 3 separate connections for e.g. L,
> N & E - whereas 3 conductor would mean 3 wires all joined together.
> Which do TLC mean?
3 wires joined together. These things are great for light fittings, so fast
& easy.
>> Is that going to be OK from a cable-zoning point of view? Ie the
>> corners/above accessories/etc rules.
> Dunno, and I'm not too bothered! The cables are inside a 4" thick stud
> partition, and ain't going to come to much harm - whatever the regs say!
Fair enough - as long as it's a conscious decision rather than lack of
knowledge.
Pete
> That would work - except that it's going to end up in an inaccessible
> location inside a stud partition[1], so is not really recommended.
>
> [1] I have a 1.0 or 1.5mm T&E cable which goes to a wall light. I want
> to do away with the existing light[2], and replace it with two lights in
> different positions by connecting two cables to this single cable - and
> then sealing up the existing hole.
>
> [2] The existing light - which is totally unsuitable for *any* bathroom
> zone, is on a wall at the side of a bath, and is low enough to be in
> Zone 1! Although against all the current regs(!) this has not been too
> much of a hazard in the past, but will shortly become one when my
> newly-installed over-bath shower becomes operational! I propose to
> install two Zone 2 lamps - one higher up and the other further along, so
> that neither is in Zone 1 - but need to extend the wiring to make this
> possible.
Combining them in an inaccessible location isn't a good idea. Why not extend
one to one of the new locations with crimps, and then a new cable to the
other location. Anyone following on in 20 years time would appreciate not
having two cables appearing from one source.
--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply
>
> Combining them in an inaccessible location isn't a good idea. Why not extend
> one to one of the new locations with crimps, and then a new cable to the
> other location. Anyone following on in 20 years time would appreciate not
> having two cables appearing from one source.
>
I'm sure you're right, but I'm struggling to feed cables through an
existing stud wall with as little damage as possible to the plasterboard
- and need to take the line of least resistance.
But I will assess the feasibility of following your suggestion when I
come to do it.