Anyone experience of 2 part epoxy putty

[leen...@yahoo.co.uk]

Hi all,

I have recently bought a whirlpool bath on eBay and one of the plastic pipe fittings (part of the air jets) was broken. I am having difficulty sourcing a new one and one of the spares suppliers recommended repairing it with a 2 part putty. Looking online everbuild does an epoxy putty aqua which speaking to their technical department say it should do the trick - although I can't source it locally.

Anyone have any experience with this or similar products?

Thanks

Lee.

[Jonathan]

Good stuff. I have repaired plastic watering cans and terracotta pots with it. It doesn't last for ever once opened.

Jonathan

[Dan S. MacAbre]

If you have a local modelling shop, you might be able to get something
like milliput.

[harry]

Gorilla
http://uk.gorillaglue.com/

[The Natural Philosopher]

hardware shop, BM or craft shop.

I'd go for car body filler on plastic though. Tends to stick a bit
better, though it's still not great.


--
How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't think.

Adolf Hitler

[Nick Odell]

On Tue, 6 Sep 2016 16:33:55 +0100, "Dan S. MacAbre" <n...@way.com>
wrote:

Good stuff Milliput. It's one of those things you keep finding new
uses for.

Nick

[newshound]

Epoxy putties are very effective (strong and sticky), make sure you mix
thoroughly.

Milliput is perhaps easiest to shape into a "replacement part".

Car body filler is cheap for large items and adheres well to some
plastics but not others. It's also easy to shape after it has set, but
it's not as strong as the others, if it is a load-bearing part.

I don't think there is a single right answer, it depends on the geometry
and materials. Epoxy putty is probably the strongest and stickiest.

[leen...@yahoo.co.uk]

Thanks all for your suggestions. I will call their technical departments in the morning to see what they say.

Despite Everbuild sales saying there was nobody locally who could supply it I discovered that you can buy it from Toolstation

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Consumables/sd2711/Plumbers+Epoxy+Aqua+Repair/p59360

I bought it and had a quick go at fixing it. I mixed the 2 elements together and then tried to put it on the edge of the broken fitting without sealing the hole! It was almost like it wouldn't stick to it and hold on properly. I eventually got the surface covered and pushed on the other piece and held for about 5 mins. When I let go, the 2 pieces had not stuck together at all so ended up removing all the putty and cleaning the surface again.

Did I do something wrong or does this indicate that the product will not stick it?

thanks

Lee.

[Murmansk]

I'm not 100% sure exactly what you are going with this stuff but it sounds like you are using it as a glue - that is to attach two surfaces together that used to be one but were fractured.

I'd have thought it works best when it's attached on the surface - kind of like a splint if you see what I mean.

[leen...@yahoo.co.uk]

Essentially, it is almost like a regular tee but with an extra side branch to connect a drain hose to it. The bit has broken off completely. Rather than a vertical break in parallel with the main body, it is at an angle so the result wont really need to bear any weight (if you see what I mean).

When you put the mixed epoxy putty onto the plastic, is it supposed to stick to it and therefore stay on or does this only happen once cured?

thanks

Lee.

[Dan S. MacAbre]

I think you're better not using the epoxy as a kind of contact adhesive;
rather something to wrap around it and hold it all together, something
like a plaster cast. If it has snapped, then it probably needs some
kind of reinforcement anyway. If it's the right kind of plastic, you
might try some kind of melting adhesive (like you might do with airfix
kit parts), and afterwards make sure that it has not blocked the hole,
but it would still probably need some extra strengthening.

If it is like a tee with an extra branch, you may be able to recreate
its function with two tees, one after the other.

[newshound]

It might be helpful if you posted a picture via Dropbox or one of the
other similar services.

In my experience epoxy will stick to most things, and the "plumbers"
putty will stick to them even when wet. However, there are a few
plastics which are difficult.

If the epoxy doesn't stick when it is soft, it's unlikely to do so when
it sets (although you might be able to repair some things effectively by
encapsulating them).

Virtually nothing will stick to PTFE, polyethylene, polypropylene, or
silicone rubber, or many surfaces which have experienced silicone
polish. If this unit has been made in a mould, the surface may be
contaminated with mould release agents (often but not always silicones).

Some materials (perspex comes to mind) don't always take epoxy very
well, but car body filler might work very well because the uncured
material will tend to dissolve into the surface.

There are various formulations of epoxy putty, of which one is Milliput.
They are basically made from something like epoxy glue, but with an
inert filler to make them more putty-like, and to make them easier to
shape when cured. With a high epoxy content, they will be stronger and
stick better, but be more difficult to shape, and vice versa.
Conversely, low epoxy mixes will be easier to shape, but be weaker and
less sticky.

One product which seems to have a good reputation is JB Weld, which
contains powdered metal and is supposed to be good for high strength
repairs.

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

Yes.
I had a pin-hole in a 22mm CH pipe above the suspended ceiling in the
shop. No idea how or why it happened but I didn't want to drain down
the whole system so I mixed up some 2 part epoxy putty stuff, stuck it
over the pin-hole and bound it over/around with self amalgamating tape
(brilliant stuff in it's own right).

That was at least 10, may be even 15 years ago and it's never leaked since.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <Fe6dncnEwIoAgVLK...@brightview.co.uk>,

newshound <news...@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
> Car body filler is cheap for large items and adheres well to some
> plastics but not others. It's also easy to shape after it has set, but
> it's not as strong as the others, if it is a load-bearing part.

> I don't think there is a single right answer, it depends on the geometry
> and materials. Epoxy putty is probably the strongest and stickiest.

How well would it work with the usual injection moulded plastics? I've
generally found a solvent glue the best bet with those.

--
*ONE NICE THING ABOUT EGOTISTS: THEY DON'T TALK ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE.

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Capitol]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article<Fe6dncnEwIoAgVLK...@brightview.co.uk>,
> newshound<news...@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
>
>> Car body filler is cheap for large items and adheres well to some
>> plastics but not others. It's also easy to shape after it has set, but
>> it's not as strong as the others, if it is a load-bearing part.
>>
>
>> I don't think there is a single right answer, it depends on the geometry
>> and materials. Epoxy putty is probably the strongest and stickiest.
>>
> How well would it work with the usual injection moulded plastics? I've
> generally found a solvent glue the best bet with those.
>
>

I've had some good experiences with superglue and a bit of bodging.
Maybe Milliput to shape something and superglue for adhesion?

[Capitol]

Is it PVC? If so pipe cement and some fibreglass tape for
reinforcing may be applicable?

[Capitol]

Yes, I experienced the horrors of a car vinyl interior which had
been silicone polish coated. When I finally managed to stick something
to the dash, I never ever managed to get the glue off the surface(15
years!) and every solvent I could find.

[harry]

There was a manufacturing problem with copper pipe back then
ISTR it was to do with the lubricant used when drawing the pipe through dies during manufacture.

[Capitol]

It was also thin wall tubing which picked up carbonised lumps and
then the lumps fell off some years later and a pin hole appeared. It
happened in the mid 70s, in 15mm tubing particularly. I have a house
full of it! I've found out that almost all of the problems appear where
the tube has been bent. The original plumber had the bad luck to put a
bent section in the floor screed and then had to dig it up to replace
it. I had one pin hole appear at 1am on Sunday morning when I had to be
on a plane out of the country for a week at 7am. At 2am, I'd drained
down the system and patched the bend, she couldn't understand why I was
repairing it at that time, as I didn't tell her in those days, until a
few hours before I flew, to reduce her panic sessions. Fortunately all
the 22mm and 28mm pipe is thick wall, the only problem there is getting
enough heat into it to break the joints. People have problems if they
upgrade to mains pressure heating systems as the pipes then spring leaks
and have to be replaced. This has recently happened to a friend who has
had to have most of her bungalow pipework replaced