Trying to get a silver-black finish on a newly stripped cast-iron fireplace
DIY Novice
underneath the layers of paint they're a rather attractive
silver-black colour.
I'd like to put something on to protect them (preferably not
paint)which would ideally give a shiny finish but keep the
silver-black colour.
I've tried my local fireplace shop and they recommended Stovax
Traditional Graphite Black Grate Polish which I tried on a small
section but it seems to give a very black finish.
I've seen Zebo mentioned elsewhere but that is also described as Black
Grate Polish.
Any suggestions?
Sarah Hebditch
"DIY Novice" <jgk...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:83554807.05031...@posting.google.com...
My parents always used Zebright i seem to remember, my father makes wrought
iron firebaskets and they used to come up well with the stuff.....not black,
more metallic looking.
Hope this helps
Lloyd
Andy Dingley
wrote:
>Any suggestions?
Zebo is graphite ("blacklead") in oil. If you buff it enough, it is
_somewhat_ silvery. In contrast, Liberon's black patina wax is very
black, with absolutely no metallic sheen to it.
If you really want a "silvery" finish though, go with a neutral wax
polish like Liberon's Black Bison range. With some work you can also
tint these waxes, including mixing in a little fake-silver wax
(Screwfix used to sell this, but sadly they now only do gold).
Mary Fisher
"Andy Dingley" <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote in message
news:fgnh31pojq12a0nip...@4ax.com...
> It was somewhere outside Barstow when jgk...@hotmail.com (DIY Novice)
> wrote:
>
>>Any suggestions?
>
> Zebo is graphite ("blacklead") in oil. If you buff it enough, it is
> _somewhat_ silvery. In contrast, Liberon's black patina wax is very
> black, with absolutely no metallic sheen to it.
>
> If you really want a "silvery" finish though, go with a neutral wax
> polish like Liberon's Black Bison range. With some work you can also
> tint these waxes, including mixing in a little fake-silver wax
Would the metallic powders supplied by Tiranti have the same effect?
Mary
Andy Dingley
<mary....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote:
>Would the metallic powders supplied by Tiranti have the same effect?
Yes, but they're a nightmare to mix in. Very prone to clumping.
Only way I've found to work is to mix the powder into a little
turpentine, then melt the wax and stir the turpentine in. For a
coloured wax, you probably want a little extra turpentine in there
anyway, to make sure it spreads and covers well.
You can get these metal powders from many fibreglass suppliers,
although they tend to be in large quantities - they're commonly used
for "cold-cast" sculpture.
(BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest)
Mary Fisher
> It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Mary Fisher"
> <mary....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>Would the metallic powders supplied by Tiranti have the same effect?
>
> Yes, but they're a nightmare to mix in. Very prone to clumping.
I've never noticed that. But I've only used them s a surface coating,
unmixedwith anything.
>
> Only way I've found to work is to mix the powder into a little
> turpentine, then melt the wax and stir the turpentine in. For a
> coloured wax, you probably want a little extra turpentine in there
> anyway, to make sure it spreads and covers well.
>
> You can get these metal powders from many fibreglass suppliers,
> although they tend to be in large quantities - they're commonly used
> for "cold-cast" sculpture.
Yes.
>
>
> (BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest)
Nice, for your tools or a commission?
Mary
>
Andy Dingley
<mary....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote:
>> (BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest)
>
>Nice, for your tools or a commission?
I'm just trying to get rid of surplus timber. This is an old
"Nakashima style" slab table that was made in the '60s, and I found in
a flat clearance a couple of weeks ago. It had been used as a plant
stand by someone with very poor aim when watering and was only fit for
firewood.
However I can never throw timber away, so I scrounged it. Then
discovered on planing it up that was 1 1/2" thick plane (a maple
relative). Huge splits in the middle, but ripping the centre out
turned it into 9' of 8" wide timber. That's enough to make a slightly
shortened Mastermyr, in nice timber thick enough to allow relief
carving.
I'll probably use it as a toolbox on the LARP circuit this summer
(Heartland Games - I'll be selling glasswork, furniture and tiaras).
If I ever do carve it, I'll probably give it awy to someone - shame to
sell it, it wouldn't raise enough to make a worthwhile hourly rate.
Dave Plowman (News)
Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> However I can never throw timber away, so I scrounged it. Then
> discovered on planing it up that was 1 1/2" thick plane (a maple
> relative). Huge splits in the middle, but ripping the centre out
> turned it into 9' of 8" wide timber. That's enough to make a slightly
> shortened Mastermyr, in nice timber thick enough to allow relief
> carving.
> I'll probably use it as a toolbox on the LARP circuit this summer
> (Heartland Games - I'll be selling glasswork, furniture and tiaras).
> If I ever do carve it, I'll probably give it awy to someone - shame to
> sell it, it wouldn't raise enough to make a worthwhile hourly rate.
My hero. ;-)
--
*Prepositions are not words to end sentences with *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Mary Fisher
Hmm.
...
It would be very nice in our Viking tent :-)
Mary
>