Choice of ball valves as isolators
Tim W
The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh question -
otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all point in fitting
them at all unless they work and stay working for the next decade or two...
These are cheap - but I suspect too cheap:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67670/Plumbing/Brassware/Isolating-Valve-15mm-Pack-of-10
These ought to be reliable, but getting more expensive:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/29086/Plumbing/Pegler-Brassware/Pegler-T-Ball-Valve-15mm-Red?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Plumbing-_-Pegler
T Ball Valve 15mm Red
And of course, Ballofix:
And RWC, who I presume are a good brand?
And these:
http://www.valves-online.co.uk/acatalog/Brass_Ball_Valve_Compression_Ends_Red_B_Fly.html
Cheers
Tim
--
Tim Watts
This space intentionally left blank...
RubberBiker
ideal - so haven't bothered to look elsewhere.
You can get them cheaper on ebay of course.
jim
> Hi,
>
> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
> install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>
> So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh question -
> otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all point in fitting
> them at all unless they work and stay working for the next decade or two...
>
> These are cheap - but I suspect too cheap:
>
>
> These ought to be reliable, but getting more expensive:
>
> T Ball Valve 15mm Red
>
> And of course, Ballofix:
>
>
> And RWC, who I presume are a good brand?
>
>
> And these:
>
> http://www.valves-online.co.uk/acatalog/Brass_Ball_Valve_Compression_...
>
> Cheers
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Watts
>
> This space intentionally left blank...
hi tim
watch out for the bore size when the are fully open - cheapies will, i
expect, be narrow bore so each one will negatively affect flow rate,
so increasing power required to e.g. operate CH or reduce flow to
showers etc.
IME cheapies start leaking sooner than more expensive ones...
My "plant room" uses 1/4 turn full bore lever valves which I hope will
stay the distance! tho not nice to look at...
cheers
JimK
The Medway Handyman
> Hi,
>
> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves,
> to install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>
> So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh
> question - otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all
> point in fitting them at all unless they work and stay working for
> the next decade or two...
>
>
>
> These are cheap - but I suspect too cheap:
>
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67670/Plumbing/Brassware/Isolating-Valve-15mm-Pack-of-10
I use those all the time & there isn't anything wrong with them. Having
said that, my needs are different - I won't be the bloke using it in a
decades time. I use them simply to make jobs easier for me to do at the
time.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
John Rumm
> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
> install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>
> So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh question -
> otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all point in fitting
> them at all unless they work and stay working for the next decade or two...
>
>
>
> These are cheap - but I suspect too cheap:
>
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67670/Plumbing/Brassware/Isolating-Valve-15mm-Pack-of-10
Unlike gate valves, IME cheap ball valves work well enough - I have not
had any problems with them leaking, seizing, not sealing etc. So in
situations where you are just isolating single taps, cisterns etc I
would probably use those. For more major locations, and for things like
shower isolators, I would use the lever operated full bore valves -
especially round the components of the heating and hot water systems etc.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
John
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:N7udnRrLkrOypVrX...@brightview.co.uk...
I have a ball valve (screw slot) on the feed to my outside tap - I find that
if the outside tap is closed then the ball valve is very hard to close. If
the outside tap is open a trickle then it is easy. Must be some sort of
hydraulic pressure on the seal.
Anyone else found this?
ARWadsworth
"Tim W" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:ha76o0$f3h$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Is that your completion date for finishing the bungalow :-) ?
The two (probably cheapo ball valves) that my Dad fitted to isolate the hot
and cold outside taps some years ago (1) still work. They are of course used
every year as he isolates the outside taps every winter. I wonder if non use
of a ball valve allows them to fail when they are needed like gate valves
always do?
Cheers
Adam
(1) Work it out for youself. He installed the outside taps the same week as
he bought a brand new A registered Ford Sierra as he intended to clean it
every week. I can assure you that he spent more time installing the taps
than cleaning the car.
geoff
ARWadsworth <adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
>
>"Tim W" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
>news:ha76o0$f3h$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Hi,
>>
>> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
>> install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim
>
>Is that your completion date for finishing the bungalow :-) ?
>
--
geoff
Tim W
wibbled on Saturday 03 October 2009 16:38
>
> "Tim W" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
> news:ha76o0$f3h$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Hi,
>>
>> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
>> install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>>
>> So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh question
>> - otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all point in
>> fitting them at all unless they work and stay working for the next decade
>> or two...
>>
>>
>>
>> These are cheap - but I suspect too cheap:
>>
>>
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67670/Plumbing/Brassware/Isolating-Valve-15mm-Pack-of-10
>>
>> These ought to be reliable, but getting more expensive:
>>
>>
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/29086/Plumbing/Pegler-Brassware/Pegler-T-Ball-Valve-15mm-Red?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Plumbing-_-Pegler
>> T Ball Valve 15mm Red
>>
>> And of course, Ballofix:
>>
>>
http://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/Ball-o-Fix_Valve.html?utm_source=ProductSearch&utm_medium=GoogleBase&utm_campaign=Feed1
>>
>> And RWC, who I presume are a good brand?
>>
>>
http://www.advancedwater.co.uk/rwc_isolating_ball_valve.html#-1_g-rwc_isolating_ball_valve_idmaintop(3)
>>
>> And these:
>>
>>
http://www.valves-online.co.uk/acatalog/Brass_Ball_Valve_Compression_Ends_Red_B_Fly.html
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Tim
>
> Is that your completion date for finishing the bungalow :-) ?
Finish? What is this alien term you talk of? We're moving in the end of the
month whatever's ready. We will have a bathroom (pretty complete), 2
bedrooms and if we're really lucky a kitchen floor. That gives us enough
room to dump stuff and exist. There's still *much* to do (ie heating
system, fit out the kitchen, paint hall, 3rd bedroom + new window) but it's
fairly clean work and fairly non invasive.
Then there's upstairs + sort out the roof ventilation and insulation, but
that can wait till spring...
>
> The two (probably cheapo ball valves) that my Dad fitted to isolate the
> hot and cold outside taps some years ago (1) still work. They are of
> course used every year as he isolates the outside taps every winter. I
> wonder if non use of a ball valve allows them to fail when they are needed
> like gate valves always do?
I only wondered as I found a couple of ball valves that were right bastards
to turn off on the old plumbing and one in our rented house. Probably a
case of "if they were turned once a year" then they'd be fine.
> Cheers
>
> Adam
>
> (1) Work it out for youself. He installed the outside taps the same week
> as he bought a brand new A registered Ford Sierra as he intended to clean
> it every week. I can assure you that he spent more time installing the
> taps than cleaning the car.
VW clean my car when it goes for it's annual service (while it's still worth
having a manufacturer franchise service for the book). Othertimes, if I'm
desperate (ie SWMBO is kicking my nuts off) then it's a quick slosh with a
bucket if I have time or see the nice Polish blokes outside Homebase who do
a really nice job for a fiver.
Tim W
wibbled on Saturday 03 October 2009 18:22
A southern meet perhaps? I'm game STSWMBOA (subject to SWMBO approval).
Probably at the point when we have 3 bedrooms and an actual kitchen.
If I relay the upstairs floor (it's in tatters) there might even be
somewhere to kip. Otherwise bring tent - have garden!
Tim W
wibbled on Saturday 03 October 2009 15:33
> On 3 Oct,
> I've had cheaper ones fail (and also some don't seal well in both
> directions) I now generally get full bore Pegler lever or butterfly ones
> as I only want to fit them once.
>
I'm hearing Peglar = reliable enough to consider the extra dosh.
I might do a bit of half and half. Peglar t-valves on each major branch and
a cheap ball valve on each final leg. That can be handy, but if it jams,
it's not the end of teh world...
YAPH
> Hi,
>
> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
> install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>
> So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh question -
> otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all point in fitting
> them at all unless they work and stay working for the next decade or two...
Pegler also do non-full-bore screwdriver-slot valves - available from
Screwfix, cheaper than lever or butterfly valves but not as cheap as
el cheapo equivalents.
--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk
There's nowt as queer as folk.
Especially other folk.
Tim W
wibbled on Sunday 04 October 2009 20:56
> On Sat, 03 Oct 2009 10:49:50 +0100, Tim W wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> The only plumbing bit I haven't bought yet are a pile of ball valves, to
>> install on key sections for isolation and maintenatnce purposes.
>>
>> So many... Any recommendations? I'll need a fair few, hence teh question
>> - otherwise I'd just buy the expensive ones... Bugger all point in
>> fitting them at all unless they work and stay working for the next decade
>> or two...
>
> Pegler also do non-full-bore screwdriver-slot valves - available from
> Screwfix, cheaper than lever or butterfly valves but not as cheap as
> el cheapo equivalents.
Thanks for that John. I should decide where I need full bore and where non
full doesn't matter.
Cheers
Tim W
wibbled on Saturday 03 October 2009 10:49
Just an aside:
Is there any likely problem with using screwdriver ballvalves as flow
restrictors? Noisy maybe...
I'm going to have mains pressure hot water, and it might be useful to
restrict the flow to certain taps so that, say, turning the kitchen sink on
full blast doesn't drop the shower flow.
Jules
> Just an aside:
>
> Is there any likely problem with using screwdriver ballvalves as flow
> restrictors? Noisy maybe...
JOOI are ballvalves OK to operate half-open? I noticed the other day that
one of my gate valves (spit) has a tag on it saying to only operate it in
full-open or full-closed, persumably for wear reasons.
(I see lots of small ballvalves here in the US with small lozenge-shaped
handles; they seem to be a standard fitting, presumably for both
flow-tuning and easy shut-off. I see a lot of them leak around the shafts,
and even a couple where the bodies have outright cracked. Crappy stuff)
cheers
J.
Jim
>> I'm going to have mains pressure hot water, and it might be useful to
>> restrict the flow to certain taps so that, say, turning the kitchen sink on
>> full blast doesn't drop the shower flow.
>
> than from the cold tank. Tried to restrict the bog by part closing the
> isolator ball valve. It was too noisy, woke me up upstairs, so I raked in the
> plumbing box and found the spiral flow restrictor for the cystern ball
> valve(other type of ball valve!) HP. Works a treat and silent. Don't know if
> you can get teh same for other devices, but a length of microbore may
> silently reduce flow enough.
You can buy pressure reducing valves quite cheaply now - I picked up a
Caleffi thing to stop the mains pressure water blowing our caravan
plumbing for about 10 quid.
In our replumbing exercise I'm planning to bring all the plumbing to the
toilet cisterns back to a central point in case I ever get the budget
for a proper rainwater recycling system so it would be quite an easy
thing to reduce the pressure down to a couple of bar.
Doctor Drivel
<m...@privacy.net> wrote in message news:50A68401DD%brian...@lycos.co.uk...
> On 7 Oct,
> Tim W <t...@dionic.net> wrote:
>
>> Is there any likely problem with using screwdriver ballvalves as flow
>> restrictors? Noisy maybe...
>>
>> I'm going to have mains pressure hot water, and it might be useful to
>> restrict the flow to certain taps so that, say, turning the kitchen sink
>> on
>> full blast doesn't drop the shower flow.
>
> rather
> than from the cold tank. Tried to restrict the bog by part closing the
> isolator ball valve. It was too noisy, woke me up upstairs, so I raked in
> the
> plumbing box and found the spiral flow restrictor for the cystern ball
> valve(other type of ball valve!) HP. Works a treat and silent. Don't know
> if
> you can get teh same for other devices, but a length of microbore may
> silently reduce flow enough.
You can use flow regulators available from http://www.bes.co.uk