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Leaky rad (chromed towel one)
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Jethro_uk
Jun 25, 2012, 5:08:18 AM6/25/12
to
Noticed a small brown patch of liquid in the cloakroom yesterday, just
underneath the inlet side of the towel radiator, which is one of those
laddered chrome types).
Further inspection reveals what I presume is a faulty weld, on the 3rd
cross pipe, where it's welded into the upright box section.
1) For now, I have closed both valves (counting the lockshield turns). Is
this enough to prevent the whole system emptying (over time) ?
2) Presumably the only sensible fix is to replace the rad ? No reliable
repair available ?
3) Given the amount of welding involved in these rads, compared to a
traditional one, is this fault much more likely in any event ?
Cheers all.
underneath the inlet side of the towel radiator, which is one of those
laddered chrome types).
Further inspection reveals what I presume is a faulty weld, on the 3rd
cross pipe, where it's welded into the upright box section.
1) For now, I have closed both valves (counting the lockshield turns). Is
this enough to prevent the whole system emptying (over time) ?
2) Presumably the only sensible fix is to replace the rad ? No reliable
repair available ?
3) Given the amount of welding involved in these rads, compared to a
traditional one, is this fault much more likely in any event ?
Cheers all.
newshound
Jun 25, 2012, 5:25:22 AM6/25/12
to
probably be unsightly. Certainly not worth rewelding and rechroming
unless it is very unusual.
Andrew Gabriel
Jun 25, 2012, 8:13:51 AM6/25/12
to
In article <6UVFr.278042$3i1.1...@fx10.am4>,
Not in my experience. Modern radiators are so thin they are more
likely to corrode through nowadays. I think you were unlucky.
I've never had a chromed towel rail fail, although I've never
bought one of the expensive designer types, so I can't comment
on those.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
likely to corrode through nowadays. I think you were unlucky.
I've never had a chromed towel rail fail, although I've never
bought one of the expensive designer types, so I can't comment
on those.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Jethro_uk
Jun 25, 2012, 9:23:05 AM6/25/12
to
With the rad completely isolated, could I remove the top plug, siphon out
the water, and just forget about it (for now) ?
Heliotrope Smith
Jun 25, 2012, 12:10:48 PM6/25/12
to
> With the rad completely isolated, could I remove the top plug, siphon
> out the water, and just forget about it (for now) ?
>
Yes you can drain the rad with no problems.
> out the water, and just forget about it (for now) ?
>
It would be easier to slacken the union nut that goes into the rad
from the valve with a container under it and drain it that way.
Far easier than trying to syphon the water.
When you get round to replacing the rad dont forget to check for
corrosion inhibitor as it seems your system may be lacking in this.
--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ne...@netfront.net ---
harry
Jun 25, 2012, 12:47:04 PM6/25/12
to
magnet)
If it's steel, I would junk it. Any fix will be temporary.
If copper/brass it could be soft soldered.
If steel you might have a problem with your water treatment.
The Medway Handyman
Jun 25, 2012, 1:26:16 PM6/25/12
to
On 25/06/2012 17:10, Heliotrope Smith wrote:
>> With the rad completely isolated, could I remove the top plug, siphon
>> out the water, and just forget about it (for now) ?
>>
>
> Yes you can drain the rad with no problems.
>
> It would be easier to slacken the union nut that goes into the rad
> from the valve with a container under it and drain it that way.
> Far easier than trying to syphon the water.
Even easier to use a wet/dry vacuum & suck the water out.
>> With the rad completely isolated, could I remove the top plug, siphon
>> out the water, and just forget about it (for now) ?
>>
>
> Yes you can drain the rad with no problems.
>
> It would be easier to slacken the union nut that goes into the rad
> from the valve with a container under it and drain it that way.
> Far easier than trying to syphon the water.
>
> When you get round to replacing the rad dont forget to check for
> corrosion inhibitor as it seems your system may be lacking in this.
Seems likely.
> When you get round to replacing the rad dont forget to check for
> corrosion inhibitor as it seems your system may be lacking in this.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Jethro_uk
Jun 25, 2012, 4:36:57 PM6/25/12
to
On Mon, 25 Jun 2012 16:10:48 +0000, Heliotrope Smith wrote:
> When you get round to replacing the rad dont forget to check for
> corrosion inhibitor as it seems your system may be lacking in this.
Changed 2 years ago ... and 4 before that, and 4 before that when the
> When you get round to replacing the rad dont forget to check for
> corrosion inhibitor as it seems your system may be lacking in this.
system was commissioned
:(
Dave Liquorice
Jun 26, 2012, 4:43:27 AM6/26/12
to
On Mon, 25 Jun 2012 09:47:04 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:
> If it's steel, I would junk it. Any fix will be temporary.
> If copper/brass it could be soft soldered.
Steel will take solder... Repaired a leaky steel rad by soldering on small
> If it's steel, I would junk it. Any fix will be temporary.
> If copper/brass it could be soft soldered.
patches of tin can. "Temporary" in this case was "didn't fail again" for
several years, I think I eventuallly replaced the rad. The hard bit will be
finding a soldering iron with enough grunt to make the solder flow properly
when heating a large lump of steel.
With a chrome rad you'd have to remove all the chrome around the leak as that
won't solder.
> If steel you might have a problem with your water treatment.
--
Cheers
Dave.
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