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Replacing stopcock
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chris French
Oct 2, 2011, 3:52:14 AM10/2/11
to
Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
again....)
The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
Screwfix).
A couple of quick questions
1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
--
Chris French
scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
again....)
The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
Screwfix).
A couple of quick questions
1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
--
Chris French
82045
Oct 2, 2011, 4:11:05 AM10/2/11
to
On Oct 2, 8:52 am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
> a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
> Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
> --
> Chris French
Some years ago I remember having to change a friend's DHW cylinder as
the top dome had become porous. It seemed as if the copper had some
minute contaminates (perhaps zinc or somesuch) that had eventually
corroded away leaving invisible holes in the copper.
wrote:
>
> On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
> a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
> Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
> --
> Chris French
the top dome had become porous. It seemed as if the copper had some
minute contaminates (perhaps zinc or somesuch) that had eventually
corroded away leaving invisible holes in the copper.
Andrew Gabriel
Oct 2, 2011, 5:03:31 AM10/2/11
to
In article <aa694e27-a580-42f1...@t11g2000yqa.googlegroups.com>,
82045 <brian....@yahoo.co.uk> writes:
> On Oct 2, 8:52�am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
> wrote:
>>
>> On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
>> a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
>> Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
82045 <brian....@yahoo.co.uk> writes:
> On Oct 2, 8:52�am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
> wrote:
>>
>> On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
>> a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
>> Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
> Some years ago I remember having to change a friend's DHW cylinder as
> the top dome had become porous. It seemed as if the copper had some
> minute contaminates (perhaps zinc or somesuch) that had eventually
> corroded away leaving invisible holes in the copper.
> the top dome had become porous. It seemed as if the copper had some
> minute contaminates (perhaps zinc or somesuch) that had eventually
> corroded away leaving invisible holes in the copper.
Iron contamination in copper was a problem for a while.
It rusts away, leaving a hole.
That happened about the same time they started making HWC's
much thinner to save copper.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Nightjar
Oct 2, 2011, 6:00:18 AM10/2/11
to
On 02/10/2011 08:52, chris French wrote:
> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing again....)
>
> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
> Screwfix).
>
> A couple of quick questions
>
> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
No. The size is the bore of the wrought iron or, for 3" and above, cast
> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing again....)
>
> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
> Screwfix).
>
> A couple of quick questions
>
> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
iron pipe that the thread was originally cut onto, so there is no
obvious relationship between the pipe OD and the BSP thread size.
This table from my web site may help:
http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/bsp_threads.html
I would guess from what you say that the thread is 1/2" BSP.
> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
sealing. I like PTFE paste, but PTFE tape is probably easier for most
people.
Colin Bignell
harry
Oct 2, 2011, 12:20:32 PM10/2/11
to
well corroded.
The best thing to do is to leave the existing stop cock where and
install a new valve downstream from it.
Steel pipe is sized from it's bore, not the Outside Diameter. So, if
it's 3/4" OD it will be half inch BSP.
You won't be able to do this if the old valve is failed shut. If it
works even a bit it will reduce the flow so a new valve can be fitted
easier down stream.
If the downstream pipe is copper it is likely imperial, (eg 3/4"
rather than 22mm)
which could be a problem as you will need to fit imperial x metric
adaptors too.
So long as wetness and mess can be tolerated it can be done live with
the new valve open, you have to be swift and efficient and have
everything to hand.
Needless to say, everything will need to be compression fittings there
is no possibilty of soldering.
Copper pipe developes pinholes because of impurities in the metal from
manufacture.
Be sure to get a gun metal (non de-zincifiable) valve, NOT brass.
chris French
Oct 2, 2011, 6:02:34 PM10/2/11
to
In message
<ff787da6-f21e-4c06...@q25g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harol...@aol.com> writes
>The best thing to do is to leave the existing stop cock where and
>install a new valve downstream from it.
>
Problem is that directly above the stopcock there is a T. One running
up to feed the WC, one running horizontally to the rest of the supply.
To put another stopcock in means replumbing this. Do able of course, but
I'm minded to try to removed it first. Also I'm concerned that the
stopcock might now be a partial restriction to the water flow.
>Steel pipe is sized from it's bore, not the Outside Diameter. So, if
>it's 3/4" OD it will be half inch BSP.
>
>You won't be able to do this if the old valve is failed shut. If it
>works even a bit it will reduce the flow so a new valve can be fitted
>easier down stream.
>
There is a stopcock outside by the meter, so not a problem dealing with
water flowing. Not entirely sure what has happened inside the valve. It
got very stiff, but water still flowed. Used a spanner to give some
more leverage to carefully shut it some more, then at some point I felt
it get easier, as if the shaft was shearing off or something. Then water
started flowing out of the tap more so I stopped :-) Presumably the bit
that cuts off the water has sheared off and been pushed back out of the
way by the water pressure.
>Be sure to get a gun metal (non de-zincifiable) valve, NOT brass.
I thought De-zincification was an issue in soft water areas?
--
Chris French
<ff787da6-f21e-4c06...@q25g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harol...@aol.com> writes
>On Oct 2, 8:52 am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
>wrote:
>> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
>> again....)
>>
>> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
>> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
>> Screwfix).
>>
>> A couple of quick questions
>>
>> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
>> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
>>
>> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
>>
>> On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
>> a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
>> Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
>> --
>> Chris French
>You are not likely tobe able to unscrew the steel pipe, it will be
>well corroded.
>
That thought had occurred to me.
>wrote:
>> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
>> again....)
>>
>> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
>> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
>> Screwfix).
>>
>> A couple of quick questions
>>
>> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
>> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
>>
>> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
>>
>> On a plumbing aside, and reason for tuning off the stop cock. Why might
>> a copper pipe develop a tiny pinprick hole (pipe maybe 25 years old?,
>> Cambridgeshire, very hard water area)
>> --
>> Chris French
>You are not likely tobe able to unscrew the steel pipe, it will be
>well corroded.
>
>The best thing to do is to leave the existing stop cock where and
>install a new valve downstream from it.
>
up to feed the WC, one running horizontally to the rest of the supply.
To put another stopcock in means replumbing this. Do able of course, but
I'm minded to try to removed it first. Also I'm concerned that the
stopcock might now be a partial restriction to the water flow.
>Steel pipe is sized from it's bore, not the Outside Diameter. So, if
>it's 3/4" OD it will be half inch BSP.
>
>You won't be able to do this if the old valve is failed shut. If it
>works even a bit it will reduce the flow so a new valve can be fitted
>easier down stream.
>
water flowing. Not entirely sure what has happened inside the valve. It
got very stiff, but water still flowed. Used a spanner to give some
more leverage to carefully shut it some more, then at some point I felt
it get easier, as if the shaft was shearing off or something. Then water
started flowing out of the tap more so I stopped :-) Presumably the bit
that cuts off the water has sheared off and been pushed back out of the
way by the water pressure.
>Be sure to get a gun metal (non de-zincifiable) valve, NOT brass.
--
Chris French
chris French
Oct 2, 2011, 6:05:57 PM10/2/11
to
In message <0JSdncUFvcquqxXT...@giganews.com>, Nightjar
<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> writes
so one of those should do.
I suspect getting the old one off will be my biggest challenge
--
Chris French
<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> writes
>On 02/10/2011 08:52, chris French wrote:
>> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing again....)
>>
>> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
>> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
>> Screwfix).
>>
>> A couple of quick questions
>>
>> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
>> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
>
>No. The size is the bore of the wrought iron or, for 3" and above, cast
>iron pipe that the thread was originally cut onto, so there is no
>obvious relationship between the pipe OD and the BSP thread size.
>
>This table from my web site may help:
>
>http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/bsp_threads.html
>
>I would guess from what you say that the thread is 1/2" BSP.
Ah, I see, thanks. Looks like it will be 1/2 " then
>> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing again....)
>>
>> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
>> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
>> Screwfix).
>>
>> A couple of quick questions
>>
>> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
>> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
>
>No. The size is the bore of the wrought iron or, for 3" and above, cast
>iron pipe that the thread was originally cut onto, so there is no
>obvious relationship between the pipe OD and the BSP thread size.
>
>This table from my web site may help:
>
>http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/bsp_threads.html
>
>I would guess from what you say that the thread is 1/2" BSP.
>
>> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
>
>The thread is probably a parallel BSP thread, in which case it will
>need sealing. I like PTFE paste, but PTFE tape is probably easier for
>most people.
>
Ok, got PTFE tape, and also some other sealing stuff in a little tube,
>> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
>
>The thread is probably a parallel BSP thread, in which case it will
>need sealing. I like PTFE paste, but PTFE tape is probably easier for
>most people.
>
so one of those should do.
I suspect getting the old one off will be my biggest challenge
--
Chris French
harry
Oct 3, 2011, 2:00:28 AM10/3/11
to
On Oct 2, 11:02 pm, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
wrote:
> In message
> <ff787da6-f21e-4c06-9130-36a741e96...@q25g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
> harry <haroldhr...@aol.com> writes
> Chris French- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Well that's a big help. I would consider renewing the pipe from the
meter into the house too. Other side of the meter belongs to the
water company.
This is the sruff to use.
http://www.pipestock.com/mdpe/
You will probably find the square section thread in the valve has
stripped.
Dezincification can happen in hard water areas too. It may be the
cause of your present problem. Brass takes on a coppery appearance as
the zinc is leached out and loses it's strength. So you will know
when you examine it.
wrote:
> In message
> <ff787da6-f21e-4c06-9130-36a741e96...@q25g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
> harry <haroldhr...@aol.com> writes
>
> - Show quoted text -
Well that's a big help. I would consider renewing the pipe from the
meter into the house too. Other side of the meter belongs to the
water company.
This is the sruff to use.
http://www.pipestock.com/mdpe/
You will probably find the square section thread in the valve has
stripped.
Dezincification can happen in hard water areas too. It may be the
cause of your present problem. Brass takes on a coppery appearance as
the zinc is leached out and loses it's strength. So you will know
when you examine it.
chris French
Oct 3, 2011, 2:47:00 AM10/3/11
to
In message
<f3654ccb-2794-4bef...@m37g2000yqc.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harol...@aol.com> writes
>On Oct 2, 11:02�pm, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
>wrote:
>> In message
>> <ff787da6-f21e-4c06-9130-36a741e96...@q25g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
>> harry <haroldhr...@aol.com> writes
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >On Oct 2, 8:52�am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
>> >wrote:
>> >> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> >> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> >> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
>> >> again....)
>>
<f3654ccb-2794-4bef...@m37g2000yqc.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harol...@aol.com> writes
>On Oct 2, 11:02�pm, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
>wrote:
>> In message
>> <ff787da6-f21e-4c06-9130-36a741e96...@q25g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
>> harry <haroldhr...@aol.com> writes
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >On Oct 2, 8:52�am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
>> >wrote:
>> >> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> >> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> >> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
>> >> again....)
>>
>> >You are not likely tobe able to unscrew the steel pipe, it will be
>> >well corroded.
>>
>> That thought had occurred to me.
>>
>> >The best thing to do is to leave the existing stop cock where and
>> >install a new valve downstream from it.
>>
>> Problem is that directly above the �stopcock there is a T. One running
>> up to feed the WC, one running horizontally to the rest of the supply.
>> To put another stopcock in means replumbing this. Do able of course, but
>> I'm minded to try to removed it first. Also I'm concerned that the
>> stopcock might now be a partial restriction to the water flow.
>>
>> >Steel pipe is sized from it's bore, not the Outside Diameter. So, if
>> >it's 3/4" OD it will be half inch BSP.
>>
>> >You won't be able to do this if the old valve is failed shut. �If it
>> >works even a bit it will reduce the flow so a new valve can be fitted
>> >easier down stream.
>>
>> There is a stopcock outside by the meter, so not a problem dealing with
>> water flowing.
>
>Well that's a big help. I would consider renewing the pipe from the
>meter into the house too.
any other suggestions to make the job easier Harry :-)
A drive paved with pattern imprinted concrete, and no desire to spend a
couple of grand replacing the pipe isn't really a path we want to go
down right now.
>Dezincification can happen in hard water areas too. It may be the
>cause of your present problem. Brass takes on a coppery appearance as
>the zinc is leached out and loses it's strength. So you will know
>when you examine it.
Can't say as any of the other fittings in the house show any symptoms
--
Chris French
robgraham
Oct 3, 2011, 3:10:48 AM10/3/11
to
road. At some point this was replaced (pre WW2) by a non-metered
supply from a different direction at a better pressure. During the
house renovation the steel pipe was in the way and had to be dealt
with - it was still live and apart from turning off the farm briefly
to deal with it, I did find a join which came undone without any
problem at all so that it could be capped.
Rob
tony sayer
Oct 3, 2011, 8:36:12 AM10/3/11
to
In article <eePtJLAk...@blackhole.familyfrench.co.uk>, chris French
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> scribeth thus
Ever thought of thrust boring under it?...
>>Dezincification can happen in hard water areas too. It may be the
>>cause of your present problem. Brass takes on a coppery appearance as
>>the zinc is leached out and loses it's strength. So you will know
>>when you examine it.
>
>Can't say as any of the other fittings in the house show any symptoms
--
Tony Sayer
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> scribeth thus
>>Dezincification can happen in hard water areas too. It may be the
>>cause of your present problem. Brass takes on a coppery appearance as
>>the zinc is leached out and loses it's strength. So you will know
>>when you examine it.
>
>Can't say as any of the other fittings in the house show any symptoms
--
RobertL
Oct 3, 2011, 9:02:09 AM10/3/11
to
> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
Nothing on a "3/4" BSP" pipe or fitting actually measures 3/4". the
> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
"3/4" refers the bore (inside diameter) of the original standard
pipes, but the standard bore was later increased so it is a bit bigger
than 3/4".
Robert
docholliday
Oct 3, 2011, 10:55:18 AM10/3/11
to
This is good, as larger and smaller sizes tend to be more difficult to
find, though any BSP fittings can require you to order something in
rather than picking up from Screwfix or wherever.
Before going too far along the road of replacing the stopcock, it may
be worth seeing if you can dismantle it in situ and look at the washer
and the moving parts - if there's something obvious there it may be
possible to put it right without going to the trouble of removing the
main body of the stopcock. Be very careful when unscrewing it,
obviously - you don't want to have to leave it turned off while you go
to find the parts to fix it!
The big problem in removing the stopcock is of course that - unless
the pipe on one side or the other is free to rotate - in trying to
unscrew one pipe you're tightening the other. Installers use a couple
of methods to get around this, such as unions (for example see
http://www.bes.co.uk/products/161a.asp - down at the bottom of the
page) or longscrews (don't have a picture of this at the moment - will
try to find something if needed). If they haven't done this, but have
just started at one end then assembled one piece after another it
makes things more difficult - I'm assuming you wouldn't want to try to
reverse this assembly method. A picture or two would help us to know
what your situation is.
Even if you can unscrew the stopcock, of course, you may hit the
problem that the new one isn't quite the same length...
What I've seen done most frequently in this situation is the following
- presumably because not all plumbers have the equipment to thread the
ends of steel pipes, and it's easier to do -
1: Locate points upstream and downstream of the bit you want to
replace where the pipe is screwed into a socket, tee or bend.
2: Hacksaw through the pipe and unscrew these joints.
3: screw in a BSP to copper adaptor in each position
4: Replace the bit in between in copper
When I had to replace my stopcock it was a similar excercise but using
lead to copper adaptors - the original was soldered to the pipe with
wiped joints.
It was a more urgent exercise than I should have liked - after failing
to turn fully off, the flow did not increase beyond a trickle when I
tried to turn it on again. This proved to be because the jumper that
carried the washer had managed to break and then make its way round
the corner to lodge just before the solder joint
chris French
Oct 3, 2011, 6:37:03 PM10/3/11
to
In message
<50df9f10-97c1-4e9c...@q26g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
docholliday <dochol...@gmail.com> writes
I'm not confident I could find inards to put inside a 30, 40 who knows
how old stopcock
compression to 1/2" BSP fitting. (Hopefully - it may well not work our
like that - this can be loosened and unscrewed from the stopcock
Piccie here:
<https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g0dH3WsP_oCXdl97yFKddKNweTcN9zKlQX
4n-g_0R5I?feat=directlink>
>Even if you can unscrew the stopcock, of course, you may hit the
>problem that the new one isn't quite the same length...
There is enough leeway to move the pipe up/down a bit if necessary. The
horizontal pipe runs for a couple of metres or more before getting to
another junction. The one going vertical has a a horizontal section
further up (it feeds a WC cistern) which could be bent a bit as well.
Thanks
--
Chris French
<50df9f10-97c1-4e9c...@q26g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
docholliday <dochol...@gmail.com> writes
>On Oct 2, 8:52 am, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
>wrote:
>> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
>> again....)
>>
>> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
>> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
>> Screwfix).
>>
>> A couple of quick questions
>>
>> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
>> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
>>
>> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
>>
>
>
>wrote:
>> Ok, will need to replace the mains stopcock in the house (classic
>> scenario, try turning it off, gets very stiff, water still not stopped,
>> then an ominous loosening of the shaft and water starts flowing
>> again....)
>>
>> The stopcock is BSP threaded rather than compression (which was rather
>> annoying as it meant I couldn't pick one up yesterday afternoon from
>> Screwfix).
>>
>> A couple of quick questions
>>
>> 1. Assume that BSP threads are sized by the diameter of the male part -
>> in this case a 3/4 inch steel pipe incoming main.
>>
>> 2. do I need to seal the thread with anything as well?
>>
>
>
>Before going too far along the road of replacing the stopcock, it may
>be worth seeing if you can dismantle it in situ and look at the washer
>and the moving parts - if there's something obvious there it may be
>possible to put it right without going to the trouble of removing the
>main body of the stopcock. Be very careful when unscrewing it,
>obviously - you don't want to have to leave it turned off while you go
>to find the parts to fix it!
I'm pretty certain something inside has broken and would need replacing.
>be worth seeing if you can dismantle it in situ and look at the washer
>and the moving parts - if there's something obvious there it may be
>possible to put it right without going to the trouble of removing the
>main body of the stopcock. Be very careful when unscrewing it,
>obviously - you don't want to have to leave it turned off while you go
>to find the parts to fix it!
I'm not confident I could find inards to put inside a 30, 40 who knows
how old stopcock
>
>The big problem in removing the stopcock is of course that - unless
>the pipe on one side or the other is free to rotate - in trying to
>unscrew one pipe you're tightening the other. Installers use a couple
>of methods to get around this, such as unions
>The big problem in removing the stopcock is of course that - unless
>the pipe on one side or the other is free to rotate - in trying to
>unscrew one pipe you're tightening the other. Installers use a couple
>of methods to get around this, such as unions
> A picture or two would help us to know
>what your situation is.
AFAICT under the paint, the copper is joined to the stopcock via a
>what your situation is.
compression to 1/2" BSP fitting. (Hopefully - it may well not work our
like that - this can be loosened and unscrewed from the stopcock
Piccie here:
<https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g0dH3WsP_oCXdl97yFKddKNweTcN9zKlQX
4n-g_0R5I?feat=directlink>
>Even if you can unscrew the stopcock, of course, you may hit the
>problem that the new one isn't quite the same length...
horizontal pipe runs for a couple of metres or more before getting to
another junction. The one going vertical has a a horizontal section
further up (it feeds a WC cistern) which could be bent a bit as well.
Thanks
--
Chris French
docholliday
Oct 3, 2011, 7:37:08 PM10/3/11
to
On Oct 3, 11:37 pm, chris French <newspost-c-...@familyfrench.co.uk>
wrote:
> In message
> <50df9f10-97c1-4e9c-a514-4c3e2bc8a...@q26g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
> docholliday <dochollida...@gmail.com> writes
>
<snip>
against the seat) then it's likely you could find that quite easily:
if it's anything else I'd agree that without a big box of spares
collected from old systems you're probably stuffed on that one. I
suspect you'll find it worth unscrewing the works from the body anyway
to make it possible to rotate the stopcock without gouging the
plaster, so I'd still think it might be worth examining at that stage
to see if you can get away with just replacing the jumper.
copper came at a later stage. Looking at the picture I think I might
well change to having the BSP to copper connector just before the new
stopcock.
wrote:
> In message
> <50df9f10-97c1-4e9c-a514-4c3e2bc8a...@q26g2000vby.googlegroups.com>,
> docholliday <dochollida...@gmail.com> writes
>
<snip>
> >Before going too far along the road of replacing the stopcock, it may
> >be worth seeing if you can dismantle it in situ and look at the washer
> >and the moving parts - if there's something obvious there it may be
> >possible to put it right without going to the trouble of removing the
> >main body of the stopcock. Be very careful when unscrewing it,
> >obviously - you don't want to have to leave it turned off while you go
> >to find the parts to fix it!
>
> I'm pretty certain something inside has broken and would need replacing.
> I'm not confident I could find inards to put inside a 30, 40 who knows
> how old stopcock
>
If it's just the jumper (the piece with the washer on it that's pushed
> >be worth seeing if you can dismantle it in situ and look at the washer
> >and the moving parts - if there's something obvious there it may be
> >possible to put it right without going to the trouble of removing the
> >main body of the stopcock. Be very careful when unscrewing it,
> >obviously - you don't want to have to leave it turned off while you go
> >to find the parts to fix it!
>
> I'm pretty certain something inside has broken and would need replacing.
> I'm not confident I could find inards to put inside a 30, 40 who knows
> how old stopcock
>
against the seat) then it's likely you could find that quite easily:
if it's anything else I'd agree that without a big box of spares
collected from old systems you're probably stuffed on that one. I
suspect you'll find it worth unscrewing the works from the body anyway
to make it possible to rotate the stopcock without gouging the
plaster, so I'd still think it might be worth examining at that stage
to see if you can get away with just replacing the jumper.
>
>
> >The big problem in removing the stopcock is of course that - unless
> >the pipe on one side or the other is free to rotate - in trying to
> >unscrew one pipe you're tightening the other. Installers use a couple
> >of methods to get around this, such as unions
> > A picture or two would help us to know
> >what your situation is.
>
> AFAICT under the paint, the copper is joined to the stopcock via a
> compression to 1/2" BSP fitting. (Hopefully - it may well not work our
> like that - this can be loosened and unscrewed from the stopcock
>
> Piccie here:
>
> <https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g0dH3WsP_oCXdl97yFKddKNweTcN9zKlQX
> 4n-g_0R5I?feat=directlink>
That makes it much clearer - I'd assumed somehow that the change to
>
> >The big problem in removing the stopcock is of course that - unless
> >the pipe on one side or the other is free to rotate - in trying to
> >unscrew one pipe you're tightening the other. Installers use a couple
> >of methods to get around this, such as unions
> > A picture or two would help us to know
> >what your situation is.
>
> AFAICT under the paint, the copper is joined to the stopcock via a
> compression to 1/2" BSP fitting. (Hopefully - it may well not work our
> like that - this can be loosened and unscrewed from the stopcock
>
> Piccie here:
>
> <https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g0dH3WsP_oCXdl97yFKddKNweTcN9zKlQX
> 4n-g_0R5I?feat=directlink>
copper came at a later stage. Looking at the picture I think I might
well change to having the BSP to copper connector just before the new
stopcock.
Grimly Curmudgeon
Oct 4, 2011, 11:33:57 AM10/4/11
to
On Mon, 3 Oct 2011 23:37:03 +0100, chris French
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote:
>Piccie here:
>
><https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g0dH3WsP_oCXdl97yFKddKNweTcN9zKlQX4n-g_0R5I?feat=directlink>
>
That's a gunbarrel tap body and is easily replaceable with a gunbarrel
lever valve. Unscrew what's above it, get molies on the bottom iron
pip and unscrew the tap body. Bob's yer faintly-smelling-of-wee
strange uncle.
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote:
>Piccie here:
>
><https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g0dH3WsP_oCXdl97yFKddKNweTcN9zKlQX4n-g_0R5I?feat=directlink>
>
That's a gunbarrel tap body and is easily replaceable with a gunbarrel
lever valve. Unscrew what's above it, get molies on the bottom iron
pip and unscrew the tap body. Bob's yer faintly-smelling-of-wee
strange uncle.
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