Honeywell Central Heating Timer
Jon Dunn
Been lurking since I bought my first house a year ago - great group! You
must have saved me hundreds of pounds - thanks!
Following a recent thread I thought I'd check my heating was working
properly - slight problem! The heating's having a problem switching on. The
hot water has been on over the summer so I don't think there's anything
drastically wrong with the timer, but the heating won't switch on.
Our timer has two slide bars (one for the hot water and one for the heating)
which can be set to off, constant, twice or once. There are two buttons
which you can use to switch the water ot heating on and off when they're set
to once or twice. The timer is made by Honeywell but I couldn't see any
product number on it. It's attached to a Glow-worm Ultimate 40BF, which was
intsalled in June 1982 if that's any help.
A couple of days ago we switched the heating to on and nothing happened. I
played about with various settings and got the heating to come on, but you
could hear the button (or I guess the switch inside) clicking on and off
very quickly. Today when I tried to switch the heating on the LED flickered
on and then off very quickly and nothing. The timer was fine before the
summer.
Now, if I may, for the questions!
I assume that the timer unit has a switch inside - is it likely the switch
has got dusty ot otherwise blocked over the summer? Can these be replaced or
is it a "sealed unit"?
If it can be replaced how easy (and expensive) is it? My electrical skills
are rather meager! My first thought was to call a plumber, but would an
electrician be more appropriate? If an electrician is more appropriate can
anyone recommend a good one in the Rainham/Medway area?
I've lived in a house with no central heating over a winter when I was a
student and I've no great desire to repeat the experience!
Thanks for your time!
Jon
s madani
you need to change it they would cost in the region of 50 pounds. If you
can get a direct replacement then it is quite easy to change it yourself but
if it is a different type of timer you may have to obtain the wiring
information and match the template on the wall to the contacts on the new
timer. I had to do this myself last year but it did not solve my problem.
The reason I am writing this is to tell you that you do not have to go
without heating until your timer problem is sorted as the valve which is
switching the heating on with the timer commands has a manual option as
well, so if the timer brings on the heating for hot water you can also have
heating at the same time. The only drawback is that it is tied to the
optimum temperature setting in the hot water tank. You can adjust this to
get the right temp. at home. The valve is normally in front of the hot
water tank or near it. So change the very small lever position and click it
into the manual slot for a few seconds and then you have it sorted. I have
lived with this arrangement for a year now until I can get the other problem
fixed.
I hope this is of help to you.
Jon Dunn
> Although I can not help you with the timer problem other than saying
> that if you need to change it they would cost in the region of 50
> pounds. If you can get a direct replacement then it is quite easy to
> change it yourself but if it is a different type of timer you may
> have to obtain the wiring information and match the template on the
> wall to the contacts on the new timer.
Thanks! Good to know I won't have to freeze.
I've got the wiring template for my current system and there are 6 "blocks"
for the Programmer - N, L, 1, 2, 3, 4 of which 5 (N, L, 1, 3, 4) are used.
Does this mean if I get a replacement with an "industry standard 6 terminal
wall plate" like the CentaurPlus C27 from screwfix, will this be OK as a
direct replacement?
Anybody any ideas?
TIA
Jon
cetltd
writes
Since you don't give the type, it's difficult to be specific, but,
Is it square and electronic with three sliders ? if so, it might be an
ST699,
but it could equally well be any of the others which they do (e.g. 6400)
You will probably have to remove it from the backplate (am ST699
requires you to push a screwdriver into a slot in the bottom and release
the clip which retains it else look for a couple of screws which you
will have to unscrew to release the timer)
--
raden
cetltd
<s.ma...@rl.ac.uk> writes
Depends how the system's configured, doesn't it
--
raden
cetltd
writes
So it's not an ST699. Yes, the ST6X00 series are backplane compatible
(IIRC).
Check the back of the timer, the connections should be N, L CH(n/c),
HW(n/c), CH(n/o), HW(n/o) (I might have CH and HW the wrong way around)
with an internal live connection to the commons of the relays.
--
raden
Dave Plowman
Jon Dunn <c...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I assume that the timer unit has a switch inside - is it likely the
> switch has got dusty ot otherwise blocked over the summer? Can these be
> replaced or is it a "sealed unit"?
IIRC, it has a couple of relays which can be replaced. But I *think* the
LED works independently of these - in other words it doesn't follow the
relay. So if the LED isn't switching this is the first thing to sort.
The first thing I'd do would be to clean the slider switches. In an 'off'
position the button doesn't toggle the LED on and off, but will in any of
the timed positions whether it's on or off at the time. If this doesn't
get the LED working, the next thing would be to examine the PCB for dry
joints - especially round the switch.
--
*He's not dead - he's electroencephalographically challenged
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Dave Liquorice
> My first thought was to call a plumber, but would an electrician be
> more appropriate?
Neither you need a domestic heating engineer.
--
Cheers new...@howhill.com
Dave. Remove "spam" for valid email.
Jon Dunn
> On Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:13:26 +0100, Jon Dunn wrote:
>
>> My first thought was to call a plumber, but would an electrician be
>> more appropriate?
>
> Neither you need a domestic heating engineer.
D'Oh! *Slaps Forehead*!!
Thanks!
Jon Dunn
> In article <almtv6$no8$1...@jura.cc.ic.ac.uk>,
> Jon Dunn <c...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>> I assume that the timer unit has a switch inside - is it likely the
>> switch has got dusty ot otherwise blocked over the summer? Can these
>> be replaced or is it a "sealed unit"?
>
> IIRC, it has a couple of relays which can be replaced. But I *think*
> the LED works independently of these - in other words it doesn't
> follow the relay. So if the LED isn't switching this is the first
> thing to sort.
>
> The first thing I'd do would be to clean the slider switches. In an
> 'off' position the button doesn't toggle the LED on and off, but will
> in any of the timed positions whether it's on or off at the time. If
> this doesn't get the LED working, the next thing would be to examine
> the PCB for dry joints - especially round the switch.
Played about with it a bit more last night - looks like it's the slider bar.
The "On" positions for Cont, Twice and Once seem to have moved from where
the slider clicks to for them (so that the position for Twice is between
Twice and Cont), so I'll give cleaing it a go...
Thanks!!
Jon Dunn
> In message <almtv6$no8$1...@jura.cc.ic.ac.uk>, Jon Dunn <c...@yahoo.co.uk>
> writes
>
> Since you don't give the type, it's difficult to be specific, but,
> Is it square and electronic with three sliders ? if so, it might be an
> ST699,
> but it could equally well be any of the others which they do (e.g.
> 6400)
>
> You will probably have to remove it from the backplate (am ST699
> requires you to push a screwdriver into a slot in the bottom and
> release the clip which retains it else look for a couple of screws
> which you will have to unscrew to release the timer)
>
>
Thanks!
Right on the nose - I've had a look on Honeywell's website and it is an
ST699 - the 24 hour version. After playing with a bit more last night, it
looks like the problem may be with the Heating Slider Bar. Maybe it just
needs cleaning?
If needs be is there a reliable source for a new one? I've found them listed
at plumbcenter.co.uk for £64.50 + VAT....
Roger
>
>
If you're electrically competent then buy a new digital programmer and a
wiring centre. For ease of use they are far superior to the old
mechanical ones - 7 day (or 5/2 day) programming, independent control of
CH and HW, battery backup etc etc, and I paid precisely Ł66 for mine.
--
Roger
cetltd
writes
--
raden
Dave Plowman
Roger <nos...@here.net> wrote:
> If you're electrically competent then buy a new digital programmer and a
> wiring centre. For ease of use they are far superior to the old
> mechanical ones - 7 day (or 5/2 day) programming, independent control of
But it *is* a 'digital' programmer...;-)
--
* They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken.
joe stahelin
>properly - slight problem! The heating's having a problem switching on.
>The hot water has been on over the summer so I don't think there's
>anything drastically wrong with the timer, but the heating won't switch
>on.
The problem may be due to the pump having stuck because of muck which
has settled in the system in the summer period.. Before you spend any
money, get to the pump and you should find it possible to turn the
spindle using a spanner on one end or other - it may be necessary to
remove a cover/cap to get at it. As soon as you have given the
spindle a couple of turns switch on and see whether the pump comes into
action.
This problem can usually be avoided by running the pump for a short
period about once a week throughout the summer.
--
Charles (Joe) Stahelin, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire UK