The bathroom and kitchen are nearing completion. I've just put a bit of
masking tape onto the bathroom wall, to have a think about the size of
mirror we want - and it's taken the flamin' paint off as easy as you bloody
like.
I is not happy.
The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding coat and
finish.
They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat was
watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put on.
What have I done wrong?
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off and
starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of paint...?
Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have been
like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and horrid for
working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent coats a better
'grip'.
And don't fall for the 'bathroom' and 'kitchen' paint scam, it's just normal
paint, regardless of claims made by manufacturers and protestations by
others in this froup that it's 'special'.
>> The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding
>> coat and finish.
>> They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat was
>> watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put on.
>>
>> What have I done wrong?
> Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have
> been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and
> horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent
> coats a better 'grip'.
THAT thin...? Oh.
and...
Why would you want to strip it all off and start again? - it's only because
the paint hasn't fully 'cured' that it has peeled away, and even then, only
because you attached sticky tape to it and pulled it off! - paint takes a
good few weeks to harden properly, maybe longer in a damp bathroom.
if the tiles are stuck, leave em be.
if the paint is peeling off you can give it a going over with a scraper and
repaint the bits that come off. however, you might find that painting over
the paint which /thought/ was stuck was /not/ and will dampen and lift
off onto the roller as you pass over it :-(
good luck. it's probably not as bad as you think.
>>>> Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint
>>>> off and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top
>>>> of paint...?
> Why would you want to strip it all off and start again? - it's only
> because the paint hasn't fully 'cured' that it has peeled away, and
> even then, only because you attached sticky tape to it and pulled it
> off! - paint takes a good few weeks to harden properly, maybe longer
> in a damp bathroom.
Ah, OK...
Might not be all doom'n'gloom, then - although it's certainly looking it at
the mo!
>Adrian wrote:
>> and...
>>>> Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off
>>>> and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of
>>>> paint...?
>
>Why would you want to strip it all off and start again? - it's only because
>the paint hasn't fully 'cured' that it has peeled away, and even then, only
>because you attached sticky tape to it and pulled it off! - paint takes a
>good few weeks to harden properly, maybe longer in a damp bathroom.
>
I had some emulsion pull off with masking tape recently and that was >
year old. There are two types of masking tape the 24 hr and the 7 day.
I was wondering whats the point of 24 hr if its the same price. Maybe
the 7 day is more prone to pulling off the emulsion type paints? I bet
the OP was using 7 day.
> There are two types of masking tape the 24 hr and the 7 day.
> I was wondering whats the point of 24 hr if its the same price. Maybe
> the 7 day is more prone to pulling off the emulsion type paints? I bet
> the OP was using 7 day.
It says "Sicad Group EuroCel" on the inside edge of the cardboard.
The tape was pulling paint off with just a quick dab, though - Total
contact time about than a second...
Don't underestimate masking tape. I had it pulling the laminate off an
Ikea plinth, which was crap admittedly, but it's powerful stuff on some
surfaces.
That said, Dulux emulsion does seem full of crap these days. Too much
aggregate and not enough resin. I only use Crown these days
> Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have been
> like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and horrid for
> working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent coats a better
> 'grip'.
I've always understood it should be diluted 10:1: paint:water??
David
>> Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should
Which is what both sets of plasterers (kitchen and bathroom) said to me,
and what I did.
I'd love to see somebody trying to put 3:1 water:paint onto a ceiling...
For normal painting yes, not when you want the actual paint to soak in more
than a fraction of a mm! - the water soaks into new plaster and leaves the
pigments on the surface, and these easily peel off, if the paint is *very*
thin, more pigments get into the plaster rather than just on the surface.
Roller on a pole, brush for corners and disposable paper suit or sheet of
thin polythene.
That said, it's not usually needed, only if you intend applying and removing
tape the following day :-p
> That said, it's not usually needed, only if you intend applying and
> removing tape the following day :-p
About three weeks later...
> About three weeks later...
<thinks>
Two weeks. Damn near exactly.
and isn't there more than one type of masking tape ? Low tack stuff for some
jobs ?
Nick
I find just 30% water works just fine, with a quality paint.
> And don't fall for the 'bathroom' and 'kitchen' paint scam, it's just
> normal paint, regardless of claims made by manufacturers and protestations
> by others in this froup that it's 'special'.
It depends on the brand. Some really is very different, usually because it
uses a high quality acrylic copolymer base, rather than PVA copolymer.
However, for new plaster, I would use a specific new plaster paint, such as
Dulux Supermatt (there are equivalents in other manufacturers' ranges). I
would then consider a tougher acrylic paint in a year or two, once the
plaster is really dry.
Christian.
I find Crown works straight from the tin. It has a thinner consistency
to start with, but this doesn't seem to affect the coverage in
subsequent coats.