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Lifting loft flooring

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JoeJoe

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Dec 16, 2013, 4:27:54 AM12/16/13
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Very large loft is all floored with standard loft boarding. 2/3 of which
of the boards are nailed down, at least 4 nails per sheet, using what
looks like 4" nails with minimal to no insulation underneath. Very
clever, I know. Apparently done by the previous owner's joiner friend...
Other 1/3 I did once the extension was completed, and these are screwed
into place and well insulated.

I was thinking about bulking the insulation in the above 2/3. How
difficult would it be to lift those boards, i.e. without damaging the
upstairs ceiling? I don't mind having to replace a few damaged boards
if needed. Any suggestions as to the method to use?

TIA.

J.

Nick Odell

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Dec 16, 2013, 4:36:44 AM12/16/13
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I think I'd be tempted to buy or make a centreless hole borer and
remove the plug of board surrounding each nail. Lifting the boards off
should be kinder to the ceiling than forcing out the nails. Remember
to number the boards since you will need to replace each board in the
correct place - unless you intend to angle-grind away the nail heads
first!

Nick

ss

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Dec 16, 2013, 5:08:00 AM12/16/13
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Even using a standard hole borer with a centre, use a larger size and
drill off centre should work. I only mention cause I have a few of those
that came with a cheap drill set and most of us probably already have them.

Dave Liquorice

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Dec 16, 2013, 4:58:12 AM12/16/13
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On Mon, 16 Dec 2013 09:36:44 +0000, Nick Odell wrote:

> Lifting the boards off should be kinder to the ceiling than forcing out
> the nails.

If the ceiling survived having 4" nails being driven into the boards
and joists above I doubt pulling the nails will do any damage.

Getting the claws of a claw hammer or jaws of a pair on pincers under
the nail head is probably the hard bit. After that it's just levering
against the nail, no impact or pulling on the boards. A bit of scrap
wood to place under the hammer/pincers to protect the board might be
useful.

--
Cheers
Dave.



JoeJoe

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Dec 16, 2013, 5:16:12 AM12/16/13
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On 16/12/2013 09:58, Dave Liquorice wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Dec 2013 09:36:44 +0000, Nick Odell wrote:
>
>> Lifting the boards off should be kinder to the ceiling than forcing out
>> the nails.
>
> If the ceiling survived having 4" nails being driven into the boards
> and joists above I doubt pulling the nails will do any damage.
>
> Getting the claws of a claw hammer or jaws of a pair on pincers under
> the nail head is probably the hard bit.

That is my concern.

Tim Watts

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Dec 16, 2013, 5:22:39 AM12/16/13
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On Monday 16 December 2013 09:36 Nick Odell wrote in uk.d-i-y:

> I think I'd be tempted to buy or make a centreless hole borer and
> remove the plug of board surrounding each nail. Lifting the boards off
> should be kinder to the ceiling than forcing out the nails. Remember
> to number the boards since you will need to replace each board in the
> correct place - unless you intend to angle-grind away the nail heads
> first!
>

+1 I have used this for getting soffits off big-arsed rusty 4" nails. Then
it's easy to deal with each nail in turn.

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

stuart noble

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Dec 16, 2013, 5:41:13 AM12/16/13
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On 16/12/2013 10:22, Tim Watts wrote:
> On Monday 16 December 2013 09:36 Nick Odell wrote in uk.d-i-y:
>
>> I think I'd be tempted to buy or make a centreless hole borer and
>> remove the plug of board surrounding each nail. Lifting the boards off
>> should be kinder to the ceiling than forcing out the nails. Remember
>> to number the boards since you will need to replace each board in the
>> correct place - unless you intend to angle-grind away the nail heads
>> first!
>>
>
> +1 I have used this for getting soffits off big-arsed rusty 4" nails. Then
> it's easy to deal with each nail in turn.
>

One of these might come in handy.

> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-450mm-Handle-Black-Bolster/dp/B003OYVRUQ

> http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/building-tools/bolsters-and-chisels/showitem-TS-633682.aspx



Dave Liquorice

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Dec 16, 2013, 6:09:29 AM12/16/13
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On Mon, 16 Dec 2013 10:16:12 +0000, JoeJoe wrote:

>> Getting the claws of a claw hammer or jaws of a pair on pincers
under
>> the nail head is probably the hard bit.
>
> That is my concern.

Dig around with the pincers, worn out side cutters anything else
vaugely sharp and pointy that getting a bit naggered doesn't really
matter. The shallow depression left takes the head of the counter
sunk screw when fixing the boards back down.

--
Cheers
Dave.



RobertL

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Dec 16, 2013, 6:38:01 AM12/16/13
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A Bahco nail puller would probably help:

http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/priory-150-nail-puller?utm_source=google&kwd=&utm_medium=merchant_pla&gclid=CIqLmL_TtLsCFclQ3godr3sASQ

However, if all you want to do it get some insulation underneath you could acieve that by lifting only a few boards and feeding it underneath.


Robert


fred

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Dec 16, 2013, 8:15:59 AM12/16/13
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In article <fs03oa-...@squidward.local.dionic.net>, Tim Watts
<tw+u...@dionic.net> writes
>On Monday 16 December 2013 09:36 Nick Odell wrote in uk.d-i-y:
>
>> I think I'd be tempted to buy or make a centreless hole borer and
>> remove the plug of board surrounding each nail. Lifting the boards off
>> should be kinder to the ceiling than forcing out the nails. Remember
>> to number the boards since you will need to replace each board in the
>> correct place - unless you intend to angle-grind away the nail heads
>> first!
>>
>
>+1 I have used this for getting soffits off big-arsed rusty 4" nails. Then
>it's easy to deal with each nail in turn.
>
+2, a speedy and totally stress free solution, holesaw arbour (centre
drill removed) 2quid, holesaw (smallest avail to just fit over nailhead)
2quid, drill, remove boards, done.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

Nick

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Dec 16, 2013, 10:09:49 AM12/16/13
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"JoeJoe" <n...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:fr6dnX6ZR8YBWjPP...@brightview.co.uk...
Presumably the flooring is 3/4" chipboard? I would have thought the use of
4" nails was overkill.
What about a nail puller such as:
http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/priory-150-nail-puller

With a bit of practical use, these things work well. Worth having a bit of
scrap under the heel esp. if these are long nails. Certainly no more damage
caused than by the use of claw hammer, pry bar etc.
Otherwise a centreless hole cutter (plug cutter?) or an os hole saw with
centre bit.
HTH
Nick.


JoeJoe

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Dec 16, 2013, 11:45:01 AM12/16/13
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Thanks all, this sounds like the least painful solution.

harryagain

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Dec 16, 2013, 1:03:51 PM12/16/13
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"JoeJoe" <n...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:fr6dnX6ZR8YBWjPP...@brightview.co.uk...
A lot depends if it's tongued & groved or not. T&G is harder to get up
intact.
Best bet to get them up is an electrician's sash knife levering against the
joists.
All depends on how long the nails are.

Start at one edge and work a long. If you can ease them up a bit you may be
able to pull the nails with pincers.


Capitol

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Dec 16, 2013, 1:26:59 PM12/16/13
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I presume this flooring is T & G? In which case cutting out the nail
holes may not allow enough wrangle space. The other problem is what may
be under the boards in terms of plumbing or electrical wiring?

This problem is why I always loose lay loft boarding and rely on shape
and gravity for fixing.

The Medway Handyman

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Dec 17, 2013, 12:53:53 PM12/17/13
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Get yourself one of these;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shark-Corp-21-2325-Moulding-Prybar/dp/B0007ZENQ0

Has to be the Shark brand.

Simply incredible tool. Place the smaller end next to the nail head &
tap with hammer. It will slide under the head with minimum damage & then
you can lever it out.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

JoeJoe

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Dec 17, 2013, 5:39:18 PM12/17/13
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This one look s promising.

Just had another look in the loft, and am even less impressed now :-(
T&G Floorboards are nailed down every at least 10"... Cannot believe
someone thought it was a good idea at the time (loft is only used for
storage).

PeterC

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Dec 18, 2013, 3:47:22 AM12/18/13
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Mine has 2 screws in each joist on each sheet, so 8 screws per sheet. After
doing a crude bending test on an offcut, I decided that any short, wide
overhang at the ends of the loft wouldn't break, so removed half of the
groove and some of the tongue. I can now lift sheets without too much
effort.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

meow...@care2.com

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Dec 18, 2013, 1:38:03 PM12/18/13
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I wouldnt try any of the suggestions. I'd push loosefill under from the boards you can lift. If there's anywhere you cant do this, I'd make a 2" hole or 3 to get loosefill in & patch them.

I presume the frequent long nails are to stiffen the floor structure by creating a stressed box structure.


NT
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