Toggle Fixing Problem
andy
plasterboard ..... the toggle springs out at the back of board to lie
alongside the screw thread i.e. the two wings don't open out equally
so that when you tighten the screw the fixing is pulled back through
the hole !
The fixings were bought from Wickes so I don't know if it's a quality
issue?
I want suitable fixings for a pretty heavy bathroom mirror and
unfortunately there are no studs in the right place ....
The Medway Handyman
Never use toggle fixings because you can't remove the screw without loosing
the toggle bit.
Hollow wall anchors are the strongest fixings for plasterboard & once 'set'
you can remove the screw.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Cavity+Fixings/d90/sd1930
Second block down.
If you plan to use these regularly the setting tool (third block down) is
great. You can just do them up
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
with a screwdriver if you don't want to buy the setting tool.
Harry Bloomfield
> Has anyone had the same problem as me with toggle fixings for
> plasterboard ..... the toggle springs out at the back of board to lie
> alongside the screw thread i.e. the two wings don't open out equally
> so that when you tighten the screw the fixing is pulled back through
> the hole !
> The fixings were bought from Wickes so I don't know if it's a quality
> issue?
They all do that, you have to unscrew them more along the bolt and push
them further through the hole, so they can swing around to latch onto
the rear of the panel.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
John Rumm
Toggle fixings are pretty poor IME. You need to insert plenty of spare
bolt to give space for the wings to spring open inside the wall. However
any obstruction or insulation in the wall will usually render them
useless. Hollow wall anchors are the beasties to go for for heavy loads,
or ready drives for lighter weight stuff.
--
Cheers,
John.
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Cash
andy,
As John Rumm has said, hollow wall anchors such as these may be far better:
If you have problems with the 'wrap' in the above link, try this tinyurl
one - http://tinyurl.com/2b35642
Cash
Matty F
> I want suitable fixings for a pretty heavy bathroom mirror and
> unfortunately there are no studs in the right place ....
It's too late now, but I have always wondered why builders don't put
extra timber in bathroom and toilet walls to accommodate the things
that people need to put on walls in those rooms. Like a 50kg cistern,
toilet roll holder, towel rails, mirrors, heaters etc etc.
Harry Bloomfield
> It's too late now, but I have always wondered why builders don't put
> extra timber in bathroom and toilet walls to accommodate the things
> that people need to put on walls in those rooms. Like a 50kg cistern,
> toilet roll holder, towel rails, mirrors, heaters etc etc.
How could they determine when building the wall, where the extra
timbers might be needed? They would either need to know in advance, or
give 100% coverage.
PeterC
> On 02/10/2010 22:29, andy wrote:
>> Has anyone had the same problem as me with toggle fixings for
>> plasterboard ..... the toggle springs out at the back of board to lie
>> alongside the screw thread i.e. the two wings don't open out equally
>> so that when you tighten the screw the fixing is pulled back through
>> the hole !
>> The fixings were bought from Wickes so I don't know if it's a quality
>> issue?
>> I want suitable fixings for a pretty heavy bathroom mirror and
>> unfortunately there are no studs in the right place ....
>
> Toggle fixings are pretty poor IME. You need to insert plenty of spare
> bolt to give space for the wings to spring open inside the wall. However
> any obstruction or insulation in the wall will usually render them
> useless. Hollow wall anchors are the beasties to go for for heavy loads,
> or ready drives for lighter weight stuff.
Had this in ahouse in France: 2 cabinets to put in the bathroom, one each
side of the basin.
RH one went up with no trouble; LH one - toggle fixing in, tighten screw,
fixing came out.
On the RH side there was GF in the wall; on the LH side there was
polystyrene! GF is pushed aside and PS isn't, so do you have that in the
wall?
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
Matty F
wrote:
> on 03/10/2010, Matty F supposed :
>
> > It's too late now, but I have always wondered why builders don't put
> > extra timber in bathroom and toilet walls to accommodate the things
> > that people need to put on walls in those rooms. Like a 50kg cistern,
> > toilet roll holder, towel rails, mirrors, heaters etc etc.
>
> How could they determine when building the wall, where the extra
> timbers might be needed? They would either need to know in advance, or
> give 100% coverage.
Assuming that the walls have timber studs 600mm apart with nogs half
way up the wall (like in almost every house in NZ) I would put some
extra vertical nogs in every likely place. e.g. the cistern probably
goes behind the toilet seat, and requires a toilet roll holder nearby.
Harry Bloomfield
That would involve some level of agreed standardisation.
The Natural Philosopher
John
news:i89lg4$kd4$1...@news.albasani.net...
A mirror will have a vertical (shear) load so fixings shouldn't be
difficult.
Steve Firth
> It's too late now, but I have always wondered why builders don't put
> extra timber in bathroom and toilet walls to accommodate the things
> that people need to put on walls in those rooms. Like a 50kg cistern,
> toilet roll holder, towel rails, mirrors, heaters etc etc.
It was that reason that made me use ply rather than plasterboard in the
bathroom.
Matty F
wrote:
Particularly the preference that the toilet cistern doesn't fall on
the floor like mine wants to. The builder and plumber assured me that
a low cistern, whatever you guys call it, will flush properly and it
didn't.
Having moved the cistern up where it should be, there's nothing in the
wall to attach it to.
dennis@home
"Matty F" <matty...@yahoo.co.nz> wrote in message
news:7c9a0db5-67ae-4925...@m35g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
In the last bathroom I did I used 18 mm WBP ply for the walls rather than
plasterboard.
You can fit anything anywhere with ordinary wood screws.
If you think fire is a risk you can clad it with plasterboard too, I didn't
as it was covered with tiles and fire retardant plastic (like Formica)
sheets.
John Rumm
Some of us do ;-)
dennis@home
"Matty F" <matty...@yahoo.co.nz> wrote in message
news:7c9a0db5-67ae-4925...@m35g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
In the last bathroom I did I used 18 mm WBP ply for the walls rather than
Dave Liquorice
> Particularly the preference that the toilet cistern doesn't fall on
> the floor like mine wants to. The builder and plumber assured me that
> a low cistern, whatever you guys call it, will flush properly and it
> didn't.
Thats just modern "water saving" low volume bogs for you. Many low
water volume bogs don't clear on a single flush so you have to flush
'em a second or third time. No doubt using as much, if not more,
water than the older higher volume bogs....
--
Cheers
Dave.
dennis@home
"Dave Liquorice" <allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote in message
news:nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk...
Don't forget many modern bogs have dual flush and you need to hold the
handle down if you want a "big" flush.
Lots of people never read the destructions so probably don't know.
brass monkey
Some do, we have one (prolly a cheapo) that is devoid of a siphon/syphon but
has a flap-valve instead, best flush we've ever had, anywhere. Virtually
guaranteed to flush anything away first time, spiders sometimes not. It
seems to dump (scuse the term) lots of water, fast.
Dave Liquorice
>> Thats just modern "water saving" low volume bogs for you. Many low
>> water volume bogs don't clear on a single flush so you have to
flush
>> 'em a second or third time. No doubt using as much, if not more,
>> water than the older higher volume bogs....
>
> Don't forget many modern bogs have dual flush and you need to hold the
> handle down if you want a "big" flush.
Many even if you hold the handle still don't clear, the flow is just
too low. And I'm not talking about trying to shift half a canadas
timber logging production either, more often than not it's the paper
that is left behind.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Dave Liquorice
> Some do, we have one (prolly a cheapo) that is devoid of a siphon/syphon
> but has a flap-valve instead, best flush we've ever had, anywhere.
But prone to failure or getting a lump of crud under the flap thus
leaking and wasting water. Had one in a hotle the other week, no
amount of handle jiggling could get the thing to seal properly.
> guaranteed to flush anything away first time, spiders sometimes not. It
> seems to dump (scuse the term) lots of water, fast.
Even this one still wasn't a particulary good flush.
--
Cheers
Dave.