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Car door lock problem (Rover 25)
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JakeD
Sep 8, 2012, 1:18:11 PM9/8/12
to
I've recently acquired a Rover 25 (yr 2000). It has a door lock problem. I
find I can't get my key past the little flap inside the slot on most
occasions. The same fault is found on both doors, but it has become so bad
on the driver's side that I now have to get in via the passenger door in
order to unlock the driver's door from the inside.
Is there an easy way to cure this problem?
TIA
J
find I can't get my key past the little flap inside the slot on most
occasions. The same fault is found on both doors, but it has become so bad
on the driver's side that I now have to get in via the passenger door in
order to unlock the driver's door from the inside.
Is there an easy way to cure this problem?
TIA
J
Bob Eager
Sep 8, 2012, 3:57:46 PM9/8/12
to
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor
Andy Cap
Sep 9, 2012, 4:19:22 AM9/9/12
to
internals. Why are you using the key? There should be a remote key fob
and the actual key only used in emergencies to disable the alarm.
charles
Sep 9, 2012, 4:58:21 AM9/9/12
to
In article <bsGdnTXh0ZGXzNHN...@brightview.co.uk>,
never - ever - use WD40 on locks. Dust sticks to it and will make the
problem worse in the long run. Use proper lock lubricant - Graphite.
--
From KT24
Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18
problem worse in the long run. Use proper lock lubricant - Graphite.
--
From KT24
Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18
Bob Eager
Sep 9, 2012, 5:18:49 AM9/9/12
to
Andy Cap
Sep 9, 2012, 5:30:55 AM9/9/12
to
On 09/09/12 09:58, charles wrote:
>
> never - ever - use WD40 on locks. Dust sticks to it and will make the
> problem worse in the long run. Use proper lock lubricant - Graphite.
>
That's why I suggested a small squirt because the issue is the shutter
>
> never - ever - use WD40 on locks. Dust sticks to it and will make the
> problem worse in the long run. Use proper lock lubricant - Graphite.
>
not the lock mechanism. Ideally the OP wouldn't be using the lock at
all. Incidentally Maplins sell graphite in a small quantity.
John Williamson
Sep 9, 2012, 5:39:05 AM9/9/12
to
regularly by using the key a least once a week or so, they sieze up from
disuse, and if the electronics fail on a car with a plipper, then you're
locked out.
I see this problem regularly at work, where people don't bother
exercising locks by opening and locking them regularly, and not just on
car doors.
--
Tciao for Now!
John.
Andy Cap
Sep 9, 2012, 5:47:48 AM9/9/12
to
On 09/09/12 10:39, John Williamson wrote:
> The problem is that if you don't exercise the mechanics of a lock
> regularly by using the key a least once a week or so, they sieze up from
> disuse, and if the electronics fail on a car with a plipper, then you're
> locked out.
>
> I see this problem regularly at work, where people don't bother
> exercising locks by opening and locking them regularly, and not just on
> car doors.
>
You've just encouraged me to include it in my servicing. Thanks.
> The problem is that if you don't exercise the mechanics of a lock
> regularly by using the key a least once a week or so, they sieze up from
> disuse, and if the electronics fail on a car with a plipper, then you're
> locked out.
>
> I see this problem regularly at work, where people don't bother
> exercising locks by opening and locking them regularly, and not just on
> car doors.
>
Andy C
fred
Sep 9, 2012, 6:03:35 AM9/9/12
to
In article <ab357p...@mid.individual.net>, Bob Eager
<news...@eager.cx> writes
That's the reason I wouldn't use graphite to lubricate a lock, you can't
control what some well meaning individual might use in the future to
lube it or wash it out (or chemically de-ice it) and you're left with
gunk/graphcrete in your lock.
I'd use light oil, just like the manufacturer does but I would be
inclined to wash out a well stuck up lock with WD first. Actually, for a
lock that's gone as far as to stick, I'd probably take it off the car,
dismantle it, wash it in WD or similar, oil the parts, re-assemble and
re-fit.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
<news...@eager.cx> writes
control what some well meaning individual might use in the future to
lube it or wash it out (or chemically de-ice it) and you're left with
gunk/graphcrete in your lock.
I'd use light oil, just like the manufacturer does but I would be
inclined to wash out a well stuck up lock with WD first. Actually, for a
lock that's gone as far as to stick, I'd probably take it off the car,
dismantle it, wash it in WD or similar, oil the parts, re-assemble and
re-fit.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 9, 2012, 7:39:58 AM9/9/12
to
In article <ccGnLxI3lGTQFwgb@y.z>,
use anything for a long time afterwards. It's not the sort of thing you
squirt oil into at a routine service. Or perhaps you do. ;-)
> I'd use light oil, just like the manufacturer does but I would be
> inclined to wash out a well stuck up lock with WD first. Actually, for a
> lock that's gone as far as to stick, I'd probably take it off the car,
> dismantle it, wash it in WD or similar, oil the parts, re-assemble and
> re-fit.
No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The actual
lock mechanism uses grease.
--
*The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
fred <n...@for.mail> wrote:
> >+1. Or you'll end up with a sludge of graphite/dirt, then lumps.
> >
> That's the reason I wouldn't use graphite to lubricate a lock, you can't
> control what some well meaning individual might use in the future to
> lube it or wash it out (or chemically de-ice it) and you're left with
> gunk/graphcrete in your lock.
The whole idea of using the correct lubricant is there will be no need to
> >+1. Or you'll end up with a sludge of graphite/dirt, then lumps.
> >
> That's the reason I wouldn't use graphite to lubricate a lock, you can't
> control what some well meaning individual might use in the future to
> lube it or wash it out (or chemically de-ice it) and you're left with
> gunk/graphcrete in your lock.
use anything for a long time afterwards. It's not the sort of thing you
squirt oil into at a routine service. Or perhaps you do. ;-)
> I'd use light oil, just like the manufacturer does but I would be
> inclined to wash out a well stuck up lock with WD first. Actually, for a
> lock that's gone as far as to stick, I'd probably take it off the car,
> dismantle it, wash it in WD or similar, oil the parts, re-assemble and
> re-fit.
lock mechanism uses grease.
--
*The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
ARW
Sep 9, 2012, 8:45:25 AM9/9/12
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <ccGnLxI3lGTQFwgb@y.z>,
> fred <n...@for.mail> wrote:
> > > +1. Or you'll end up with a sludge of graphite/dirt, then lumps.
> > >
> > That's the reason I wouldn't use graphite to lubricate a lock, you
> > can't control what some well meaning individual might use in the
> > future to lube it or wash it out (or chemically de-ice it) and
> > you're left with gunk/graphcrete in your lock.
>
> The whole idea of using the correct lubricant is there will be no
> need to use anything for a long time afterwards. It's not the sort of
> thing you squirt oil into at a routine service. Or perhaps you do. ;-)
>
> > I'd use light oil, just like the manufacturer does but I would be
> > inclined to wash out a well stuck up lock with WD first. Actually,
> > for a lock that's gone as far as to stick, I'd probably take it off
> > the car, dismantle it, wash it in WD or similar, oil the parts,
> > re-assemble and re-fit.
>
> No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The actual
> lock mechanism uses grease.
That has just made me think of the old lock de-icer products.
> In article <ccGnLxI3lGTQFwgb@y.z>,
> fred <n...@for.mail> wrote:
> > > +1. Or you'll end up with a sludge of graphite/dirt, then lumps.
> > >
> > That's the reason I wouldn't use graphite to lubricate a lock, you
> > can't control what some well meaning individual might use in the
> > future to lube it or wash it out (or chemically de-ice it) and
> > you're left with gunk/graphcrete in your lock.
>
> The whole idea of using the correct lubricant is there will be no
> need to use anything for a long time afterwards. It's not the sort of
> thing you squirt oil into at a routine service. Or perhaps you do. ;-)
>
> > I'd use light oil, just like the manufacturer does but I would be
> > inclined to wash out a well stuck up lock with WD first. Actually,
> > for a lock that's gone as far as to stick, I'd probably take it off
> > the car, dismantle it, wash it in WD or similar, oil the parts,
> > re-assemble and re-fit.
>
> No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The actual
> lock mechanism uses grease.
They all now seem to have a lubricant and cost a fortune.
--
Adam
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 9, 2012, 9:50:10 AM9/9/12
to
In article <k2i318$gd2$1...@dont-email.me>,
Also triggered the alarm if set. Dunno how long it took to work - frozen
locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
--
*It's this dirty because I washed it with your wife's knickers*
ARW <adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The actual
> > lock mechanism uses grease.
> That has just made me think of the old lock de-icer products.
> They all now seem to have a lubricant and cost a fortune.
On one of my BMWs, lifting the driver's door handle switched on a heater.
> > No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The actual
> > lock mechanism uses grease.
> That has just made me think of the old lock de-icer products.
> They all now seem to have a lubricant and cost a fortune.
Also triggered the alarm if set. Dunno how long it took to work - frozen
locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
--
*It's this dirty because I washed it with your wife's knickers*
ARW
Sep 9, 2012, 10:27:03 AM9/9/12
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <k2i318$gd2$1...@dont-email.me>,
> ARW <adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > > No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The
> > > actual lock mechanism uses grease.
>
> > That has just made me think of the old lock de-icer products.
>
> > They all now seem to have a lubricant and cost a fortune.
>
> On one of my BMWs, lifting the driver's door handle switched on a
> heater. Also triggered the alarm if set. Dunno how long it took to
> work - frozen locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
The slightest chill or smallest snowfall in London makes the news
> In article <k2i318$gd2$1...@dont-email.me>,
> ARW <adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > > No maker I've ever seen uses 'light oil' in the key barrel. The
> > > actual lock mechanism uses grease.
>
> > That has just made me think of the old lock de-icer products.
>
> > They all now seem to have a lubricant and cost a fortune.
>
> On one of my BMWs, lifting the driver's door handle switched on a
> heater. Also triggered the alarm if set. Dunno how long it took to
> work - frozen locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
headlines:-)
I had a frozen van door two winters ago (covered in ice). When I finally got
into the van the dash said it was minus 11.5 C.
It took 30 minutes to de-ice the inside of the windscreen.
And VH Combos have an odd setup to read the water temperature. It's on the
radiator side and not on the engine side of the thermostat. 30 minutes
running without moving and 20 miles driving later the dash actually showed a
reading
--
Adam
John
Sep 9, 2012, 1:31:25 PM9/9/12
to
Bob Eager used his keyboard to write :
Hmm... how often does this happen in the real world I wonder? Yes, I
appreciate that it *could* happen, but how often *does* it happen?
Whenever the lock got a bit stiff on my dad's old car he'd squirt a bit
of WD40 in, and not once in the 17 years he had the car and did that,
did it ever gunge up or make the problem worse - quick squirt of WD40
got the lock working like new again, *always*.
Bit like the "never run ordinary PVC cables outside as the UV will make
them brittle" thing. We've had an ordinary T&E cable on a south-facing
wall that gets sunlight almost all day, feeding an outside light for 22
years and when I recently moved it, it was *not* brittle in any way. I
understand the possibility exists, but just how often does it
*actually* happen?
appreciate that it *could* happen, but how often *does* it happen?
Whenever the lock got a bit stiff on my dad's old car he'd squirt a bit
of WD40 in, and not once in the 17 years he had the car and did that,
did it ever gunge up or make the problem worse - quick squirt of WD40
got the lock working like new again, *always*.
Bit like the "never run ordinary PVC cables outside as the UV will make
them brittle" thing. We've had an ordinary T&E cable on a south-facing
wall that gets sunlight almost all day, feeding an outside light for 22
years and when I recently moved it, it was *not* brittle in any way. I
understand the possibility exists, but just how often does it
*actually* happen?
ARW
Sep 9, 2012, 1:36:16 PM9/9/12
to
Neither WD40 or graphite would ever have fixed that design fault.
--
Adam
JakeD
Sep 9, 2012, 2:00:36 PM9/9/12
to
Andy Cap <atjn...@trashmail.net> wrote in
news:bsGdnTXh0ZGXzNHN...@brightview.co.uk:
>
> I'd try a small squirt of WD40 first and then use the graphite for the
> internals. Why are you using the key? There should be a remote key fob
> and the actual key only used in emergencies to disable the alarm.
Thanks for the suggestion. I think that may be all it needs. Today, I got
the key past the little flap, bit was really difficult to push the key all
the way into the lock. I'll get some lubricant tomorrow.
There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes, it
does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
Regards,
J PS ...Thanks to everone who responded. Very much appreciated!
news:bsGdnTXh0ZGXzNHN...@brightview.co.uk:
>
> I'd try a small squirt of WD40 first and then use the graphite for the
> internals. Why are you using the key? There should be a remote key fob
> and the actual key only used in emergencies to disable the alarm.
the key past the little flap, bit was really difficult to push the key all
the way into the lock. I'll get some lubricant tomorrow.
There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes, it
does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
Regards,
J PS ...Thanks to everone who responded. Very much appreciated!
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 9, 2012, 1:57:14 PM9/9/12
to
In article <FLudncUW5sfwT9HN...@bt.com>,
locks. You've sort of proved the point - once you use WD40 for this,
you'll need to do it regularly. To wash out the muck that's stuck to the
WD40.
--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder...
John <n...@telling.com> wrote:
> Whenever the lock got a bit stiff on my dad's old car he'd squirt a bit
> of WD40 in, and not once in the 17 years he had the car and did that,
> did it ever gunge up or make the problem worse - quick squirt of WD40
> got the lock working like new again, *always*.
My Rover is 27 years old and never needed anything squirted into the
> Whenever the lock got a bit stiff on my dad's old car he'd squirt a bit
> of WD40 in, and not once in the 17 years he had the car and did that,
> did it ever gunge up or make the problem worse - quick squirt of WD40
> got the lock working like new again, *always*.
locks. You've sort of proved the point - once you use WD40 for this,
you'll need to do it regularly. To wash out the muck that's stuck to the
WD40.
--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder...
Andy Cap
Sep 9, 2012, 2:18:47 PM9/9/12
to
On 09/09/12 19:00, JakeD wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestion. I think that may be all it needs. Today, I got
> the key past the little flap, bit was really difficult to push the key all
> the way into the lock. I'll get some lubricant tomorrow.
>
> There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes, it
> does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
>
> Regards,
>
> J PS ...Thanks to everone who responded. Very much appreciated!
Sounds odd but I don't know. My 2002 25 only has a lock on the driver's
> Thanks for the suggestion. I think that may be all it needs. Today, I got
> the key past the little flap, bit was really difficult to push the key all
> the way into the lock. I'll get some lubricant tomorrow.
>
> There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes, it
> does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
>
> Regards,
>
> J PS ...Thanks to everone who responded. Very much appreciated!
door so obviously there *is* a difference. I'd be inclined to post a
question here...
http://forums.mg-rover.org/
..just to confirm that the alarm and locking are separate ! I wonder if
the locking part is just faulty !
Andy C
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 9, 2012, 2:48:30 PM9/9/12
to
In article <XnsA0C9C1068C...@130.133.4.11>,
--
*Ever stop to think and forget to start again?
JakeD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
> There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes,
> it does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
Sounds unusual. Perhaps the CL is simply broken?
> There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes,
> it does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
--
*Ever stop to think and forget to start again?
JakeD
Sep 9, 2012, 5:38:33 PM9/9/12
to
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:52cca2a...@davenoise.co.uk:
>
> Sounds unusual. Perhaps the CL is simply broken?
It could be. I'm not sure if it's worth dismantling the door to find out.
All I know is that the key fob has no effect on the locks.
The locks in general seem awkward and notchy. I've just squirted some WD40
into the locks. While the key now goes in easily, it is still sometimes
impossible to lock the driver's door using the key. The key just doesn;t
turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time. I have to lock it with the
push/pull button inside the door, but that, too is notchy and hard to use.
Thanks,
J
news:52cca2a...@davenoise.co.uk:
>
> Sounds unusual. Perhaps the CL is simply broken?
All I know is that the key fob has no effect on the locks.
The locks in general seem awkward and notchy. I've just squirted some WD40
into the locks. While the key now goes in easily, it is still sometimes
impossible to lock the driver's door using the key. The key just doesn;t
turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time. I have to lock it with the
push/pull button inside the door, but that, too is notchy and hard to use.
Thanks,
J
SteveW
Sep 9, 2012, 5:45:59 PM9/9/12
to
On 09/09/2012 19:00, JakeD wrote:
> Andy Cap <atjn...@trashmail.net> wrote in
> news:bsGdnTXh0ZGXzNHN...@brightview.co.uk:
>
>>
>> I'd try a small squirt of WD40 first and then use the graphite for the
>> internals. Why are you using the key? There should be a remote key fob
>> and the actual key only used in emergencies to disable the alarm.
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I think that may be all it needs. Today, I got
> the key past the little flap, bit was really difficult to push the key all
> the way into the lock. I'll get some lubricant tomorrow.
>
> There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes, it
> does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
I am very suprised. My '97 Rover 400 had remote locking/unlocking and
> Andy Cap <atjn...@trashmail.net> wrote in
> news:bsGdnTXh0ZGXzNHN...@brightview.co.uk:
>
>>
>> I'd try a small squirt of WD40 first and then use the graphite for the
>> internals. Why are you using the key? There should be a remote key fob
>> and the actual key only used in emergencies to disable the alarm.
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I think that may be all it needs. Today, I got
> the key past the little flap, bit was really difficult to push the key all
> the way into the lock. I'll get some lubricant tomorrow.
>
> There is no remote locking system on the car, as I understand it. Yes, it
> does have a remote key fob, but it only arms/disarms the immobiliser.
I'd be very suprised if the newer 25 and 45 didn't.
SteveW
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 9, 2012, 6:21:53 PM9/9/12
to
In article <XnsA0C9E5FAD3...@130.133.4.11>,
counting them. But Lucas CL motor colours were generally Green/Slate and
Light Blue/Orange
--
*Snowmen fall from Heaven unassembled*
JakeD <fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> wrote:
> > Sounds unusual. Perhaps the CL is simply broken?
> It could be. I'm not sure if it's worth dismantling the door to find
> out. All I know is that the key fob has no effect on the locks.
Has it got cables going into the door? You could make an informed guess by
> > Sounds unusual. Perhaps the CL is simply broken?
> It could be. I'm not sure if it's worth dismantling the door to find
> out. All I know is that the key fob has no effect on the locks.
counting them. But Lucas CL motor colours were generally Green/Slate and
Light Blue/Orange
--
*Snowmen fall from Heaven unassembled*
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 9, 2012, 6:34:39 PM9/9/12
to
In article <k2j2mm$d1f$2...@dont-email.me>,
least some of the models, but both operated by the key. Can't much see the
point in a remote if it doesn't open the doors.
--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her
SteveW <st...@walker-family.me.uk> wrote:
> I am very suprised. My '97 Rover 400 had remote locking/unlocking and
> I'd be very suprised if the newer 25 and 45 didn't.
The SD1 Rover had CL from the '70s. IIRC, the 200 series did too - or at
> I am very suprised. My '97 Rover 400 had remote locking/unlocking and
> I'd be very suprised if the newer 25 and 45 didn't.
least some of the models, but both operated by the key. Can't much see the
point in a remote if it doesn't open the doors.
--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her
Dave Liquorice
Sep 9, 2012, 7:11:57 PM9/9/12
to
On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 15:27:03 +0100, ARW wrote:
>> ... frozen locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
> It took 30 minutes to de-ice the inside of the windscreen.
Heated windscreens are magic. B-) Will have the frost on the inside
running off in 5 mins or less.
--
Cheers
Dave.
>> ... frozen locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
>
> The slightest chill or smallest snowfall in London makes the news
> headlines:-)
>
> I had a frozen van door two winters ago (covered in ice).
Regulary get the doors frozen to the seals up here.
> The slightest chill or smallest snowfall in London makes the news
> headlines:-)
>
> I had a frozen van door two winters ago (covered in ice).
> It took 30 minutes to de-ice the inside of the windscreen.
running off in 5 mins or less.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Jules Richardson
Sep 9, 2012, 10:47:35 PM9/9/12
to
On Mon, 10 Sep 2012 00:11:57 +0100, Dave Liquorice wrote:
> On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 15:27:03 +0100, ARW wrote:
>
>>> ... frozen locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
>>
>> The slightest chill or smallest snowfall in London makes the news
>> headlines:-)
>>
>> I had a frozen van door two winters ago (covered in ice).
>
> Regulary get the doors frozen to the seals up here.
And here - the sliding side doors on the van are particularly prone to it
> On Sun, 9 Sep 2012 15:27:03 +0100, ARW wrote:
>
>>> ... frozen locks ain't common in the soft Sauf.
>>
>> The slightest chill or smallest snowfall in London makes the news
>> headlines:-)
>>
>> I had a frozen van door two winters ago (covered in ice).
>
> Regulary get the doors frozen to the seals up here.
(but it'll hit -30 or worse in Jan/Feb here).
I'd keep things in the garage, but too many times the garage doors have
frozen to the ground or their locks have iced up, so it's less trouble to
just leave everything outside and leave it idling for 20 mins before I
need to go anywhere.
I don't think I've ever had vehicle door locks ice up, though.
cheers
Jules
Mike Tomlinson
Sep 10, 2012, 1:09:25 AM9/10/12
to
En el art�culo <XnsA0C9E5FAD3...@130.133.4.11>, JakeD
<fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> escribi�:
> The key just doesn;t
>turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time.
Is it the original or a copy? It might just be a worn key.
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
<fgdf...@ghghfgh.com> escribi�:
> The key just doesn;t
>turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time.
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Andy Cap
Sep 10, 2012, 2:04:43 AM9/10/12
to
On 09/09/12 22:38, JakeD wrote:
> It could be. I'm not sure if it's worth dismantling the door to find out.
> All I know is that the key fob has no effect on the locks.
>
> The locks in general seem awkward and notchy. I've just squirted some WD40
> into the locks. While the key now goes in easily, it is still sometimes
> impossible to lock the driver's door using the key. The key just doesn;t
> turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time. I have to lock it with the
> push/pull button inside the door, but that, too is notchy and hard to use.
>
> Thanks,
> J
I tried my 25 yesterday and if I insert the key and simply turn it
> It could be. I'm not sure if it's worth dismantling the door to find out.
> All I know is that the key fob has no effect on the locks.
>
> The locks in general seem awkward and notchy. I've just squirted some WD40
> into the locks. While the key now goes in easily, it is still sometimes
> impossible to lock the driver's door using the key. The key just doesn;t
> turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time. I have to lock it with the
> push/pull button inside the door, but that, too is notchy and hard to use.
>
> Thanks,
> J
clockwise, it doesn't rotate at all. You have to turn it *slightly*
anti-clockwise first and then it will turn. Don't know if it's a common
problem. Generally it works OK, as only recently I confirmed I could
disable the alarm using the key code input method i.e so many turns
anti-clock and so many clockwise.
Andy C
JakeD
Sep 10, 2012, 12:44:23 PM9/10/12
to
Mike Tomlinson <mi...@jasper.org.uk> wrote in
news:dBYkU5AF...@jasper.org.uk:
>> The key just doesn;t
>>turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time.
>
> Is it the original or a copy? It might just be a worn key.
It looks like the original pair of keys. Yes, they are both worn. I guess
there is no way to get an unworn key cut using a worn one as a pattern, so
I guess I'm out of luck.
J
news:dBYkU5AF...@jasper.org.uk:
>> The key just doesn;t
>>turn in a clockwise direction, most of the time.
>
> Is it the original or a copy? It might just be a worn key.
there is no way to get an unworn key cut using a worn one as a pattern, so
I guess I'm out of luck.
J
Andrew Gabriel
Sep 10, 2012, 2:09:10 PM9/10/12
to
In article <XnsA0CAB419D3...@130.133.4.11>,
Probably worn lock too.
Is there anything left of Rover servicing and records?
I'm pretty sure for most current cars, a new key can be made from
digital data which the dealer garages probably have access to without
having an original key.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Is there anything left of Rover servicing and records?
I'm pretty sure for most current cars, a new key can be made from
digital data which the dealer garages probably have access to without
having an original key.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
The Other Mike
Sep 10, 2012, 2:33:36 PM9/10/12
to
--
ARW
Sep 10, 2012, 3:10:02 PM9/10/12
to
I am not saying the locksmith I know is good but he used to be able to make
a Ford car key to match the lock (some years ago) by just looking at it
(sometimes by looking at it on a car seat of the car it was locked inside).
He used to be the locksmith at Armley.
--
Adam
Bill
Sep 10, 2012, 3:14:50 PM9/10/12
to
In message <k2lduf$a1s$1...@dont-email.me>, ARW
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
>
>A locksmith may also gain that info from looking inside a lock.
>
>I am not saying the locksmith I know is good but he used to be able to make
>a Ford car key to match the lock (some years ago) by just looking at it
>(sometimes by looking at it on a car seat of the car it was locked inside).
>He used to be the locksmith at Armley.
So did the storeman at my local Ford dealership, he took my key, looked
at it for all of 5 seconds and ordered a spare. No, there were no
numbers stamped on it. A bit scary really...........
>
--
Bill
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
>
>A locksmith may also gain that info from looking inside a lock.
>
>I am not saying the locksmith I know is good but he used to be able to make
>a Ford car key to match the lock (some years ago) by just looking at it
>(sometimes by looking at it on a car seat of the car it was locked inside).
>He used to be the locksmith at Armley.
at it for all of 5 seconds and ordered a spare. No, there were no
numbers stamped on it. A bit scary really...........
>
--
Bill
ARW
Sep 10, 2012, 3:29:11 PM9/10/12
to
The cuts were done in gradients of 1 to 5 and ISTR there were 6 cuts.
Look and compare is all that was needed.
And of course anyone could enter and start a XR3i with just a screwdriver:-)
--
Adam
newshound
Sep 10, 2012, 3:53:04 PM9/10/12
to
>>>> I'd try a small squirt of WD40 first and then use the graphite for the
>>>> internals. Why are you using the key? There should be a remote key fob
>>>> and the actual key only used in emergencies to disable the alarm.
>>>
>>> never - ever - use WD40 on locks. Dust sticks to it and will make the
>>> problem worse in the long run. Use proper lock lubricant - Graphite.
>>
>> +1. Or you'll end up with a sludge of graphite/dirt, then lumps.
>
> Hmm... how often does this happen in the real world I wonder? Yes, I
> appreciate that it *could* happen, but how often *does* it happen?
>
> Whenever the lock got a bit stiff on my dad's old car he'd squirt a bit
> of WD40 in, and not once in the 17 years he had the car and did that,
> did it ever gunge up or make the problem worse - quick squirt of WD40
> got the lock working like new again, *always*.
traditional ones are so sloppy inside that the arguments which
clockmakers and quality locksmiths use against WD40 don't really apply,
IMHO.
>
> Bit like the "never run ordinary PVC cables outside as the UV will make
> them brittle" thing. We've had an ordinary T&E cable on a south-facing
> wall that gets sunlight almost all day, feeding an outside light for 22
> years and when I recently moved it, it was *not* brittle in any way. I
> understand the possibility exists, but just how often does it *actually*
> happen?
>
>
sunlight for > 20 years. It has only just developed a pinhole. (It's
faded quite a bit).
fred
Sep 10, 2012, 5:31:40 PM9/10/12
to
In article <k2lf2b$hnb$1...@dont-email.me>, ARW
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
Is this where I say, "but why would anyone want to" ;-)
<cue nostalgia moment>
I test drove one many years ago and actually quite enjoyed the drive,
came as quite a surprise.
When I had a reasonably quick ford I had to remove the door cylinders
and weld plates over the holes to make it more difficult for the scrotes
trying to nick it.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
<cue nostalgia moment>
I test drove one many years ago and actually quite enjoyed the drive,
came as quite a surprise.
When I had a reasonably quick ford I had to remove the door cylinders
and weld plates over the holes to make it more difficult for the scrotes
trying to nick it.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .
Bill
Sep 10, 2012, 5:45:07 PM9/10/12
to
In message <ePkXvtJ8wlTQFwwA@y.z>, fred <n...@for.mail> writes
locks. I lost count of the number of mornings that I came out and found
the Ford fitted lock open.
--
Bill
>
>When I had a reasonably quick ford I had to remove the door cylinders
>and weld plates over the holes to make it more difficult for the
>scrotes trying to nick it.
I had similar with a 3ltr Capri. I ended up fitting extra Yale style
>When I had a reasonably quick ford I had to remove the door cylinders
>and weld plates over the holes to make it more difficult for the
>scrotes trying to nick it.
locks. I lost count of the number of mornings that I came out and found
the Ford fitted lock open.
--
Bill
fred
Sep 10, 2012, 6:14:58 PM9/10/12
to
In article <Qew6yBVj...@birchnet.demon.co.uk>, Bill
<Bi...@birchnet.demon.co.uk> writes
Mine was later, from the narrow chubb key spike & grind era and unlock
attempts were messy. Even with the cylinders disabled and epoxy filled
they would wrench one out to try to gain access to the mech and cause
even more damage. Fortunately the welding and finishing smooth stopped
it dead, nothing visible to attack and no imagination to try an
alternate approach.
Thank god for factory fit immobs now.
<Bi...@birchnet.demon.co.uk> writes
attempts were messy. Even with the cylinders disabled and epoxy filled
they would wrench one out to try to gain access to the mech and cause
even more damage. Fortunately the welding and finishing smooth stopped
it dead, nothing visible to attack and no imagination to try an
alternate approach.
Thank god for factory fit immobs now.
ARW
Sep 10, 2012, 6:20:13 PM9/10/12
to
fred wrote:
> In article <Qew6yBVj...@birchnet.demon.co.uk>, Bill
> <Bi...@birchnet.demon.co.uk> writes
> > In message <ePkXvtJ8wlTQFwwA@y.z>, fred <n...@for.mail> writes
> > >
> > > When I had a reasonably quick ford I had to remove the door
> > > cylinders and weld plates over the holes to make it more
> > > difficult for the scrotes trying to nick it.
> >
> > I had similar with a 3ltr Capri. I ended up fitting extra Yale
> > style locks. I lost count of the number of mornings that I came
> > out and found the Ford fitted lock open.
>
> Mine was later, from the narrow chubb key spike & grind era and unlock
> attempts were messy. Even with the cylinders disabled and epoxy filled
> they would wrench one out to try to gain access to the mech and cause
> even more damage. Fortunately the welding and finishing smooth stopped
> it dead, nothing visible to attack and no imagination to try an
> In article <Qew6yBVj...@birchnet.demon.co.uk>, Bill
> <Bi...@birchnet.demon.co.uk> writes
> > In message <ePkXvtJ8wlTQFwwA@y.z>, fred <n...@for.mail> writes
> > >
> > > When I had a reasonably quick ford I had to remove the door
> > > cylinders and weld plates over the holes to make it more
> > > difficult for the scrotes trying to nick it.
> >
> > I had similar with a 3ltr Capri. I ended up fitting extra Yale
> > style locks. I lost count of the number of mornings that I came
> > out and found the Ford fitted lock open.
>
> Mine was later, from the narrow chubb key spike & grind era and unlock
> attempts were messy. Even with the cylinders disabled and epoxy filled
> they would wrench one out to try to gain access to the mech and cause
> even more damage. Fortunately the welding and finishing smooth stopped
> it dead, nothing visible to attack and no imagination to try an
> Thank god for factory fit immobs now.
They could have been fitted years ago:-)
--
Adam
Dave Plowman (News)
Sep 10, 2012, 7:02:17 PM9/10/12
to
In article <ysjsX4JiZmTQFwnO@y.z>,
as poor as the door locks?
--
*Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have *
fred <n...@for.mail> wrote:
> >I had similar with a 3ltr Capri. I ended up fitting extra Yale style
> >locks. I lost count of the number of mornings that I came out and found
> >the Ford fitted lock open.
> Mine was later, from the narrow chubb key spike & grind era and unlock
> attempts were messy. Even with the cylinders disabled and epoxy filled
> they would wrench one out to try to gain access to the mech and cause
> even more damage. Fortunately the welding and finishing smooth stopped
> it dead, nothing visible to attack and no imagination to try an
> alternate approach.
> Thank god for factory fit immobs now.
They don't stop the doors being opened, though. Was the Ford steering lock
> >I had similar with a 3ltr Capri. I ended up fitting extra Yale style
> >locks. I lost count of the number of mornings that I came out and found
> >the Ford fitted lock open.
> Mine was later, from the narrow chubb key spike & grind era and unlock
> attempts were messy. Even with the cylinders disabled and epoxy filled
> they would wrench one out to try to gain access to the mech and cause
> even more damage. Fortunately the welding and finishing smooth stopped
> it dead, nothing visible to attack and no imagination to try an
> alternate approach.
> Thank god for factory fit immobs now.
as poor as the door locks?
--
*Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have *
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