Jointing worktops in out-of-square room
mike
(>90) using a standard worktop jig?
Presumably cut the female joint first as if square, then offer up the
male worktop and mark with a pencil.
But how do you get the jig located correctly without using the pins?
And if the angle is a few degrees >90, does the joint between the
profiled front edges still meet up properly?
Thanks for any advice/gotchas before I make an expensive mistake.
Stuart Noble
How far out of square? Often easier to adjust the plaster levels
CS
that to match the wall. I had worked that out for a worktop fitter,
but still he could not see how it would work for a long time!!
mike
> How far out of square? Often easier to adjust the plaster levels
It's about 94 as best I can make out. If I chased the male leg into
the plaster slightly to make it square, I'd have to move the female
cut-out a few mm closer to the corner end, wouldn't I?
mike
> Use a breakfast bar, or wider, for one length and profile wall edge of
> that to match the wall.
A good idea but I already have the bugger and it's been cut to roughly
the right length, so would like to make it work if possible.
A.Lee
> What's the best way to joint two worktops in an out-of-square corner
> (>90) using a standard worktop jig?
>
> Presumably cut the female joint first as if square, then offer up the
> male worktop and mark with a pencil.
>
> But how do you get the jig located correctly without using the pins?
> And if the angle is a few degrees >90, does the joint between the
> profiled front edges still meet up properly?
Measure the angle, or work it out.
EG. 2 metres long, 20mm gap at one end, tapering to no gap at other end.
Worktop is 600mm wide, so the measurment would be
600mm/2000mm = 0.3
0.3 x 20mm = 6mm
So you'd need to pack your jig out 6mm at the appropriate end.
Easily checked by drawing some lines on the worktop before setting it
up.
There will be no problems with mating up for such small angles, if it is
going to be tiled afterwards, you can get away with a gap of 10mm or so,
though it is not ideal. I aim for a gap of 5mm each side if the worktop
is between 2 walls.
Alan.
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Nick
"mike" <mike...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6f5f81ea-2266-4e3c...@k4g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
Make an accurate template and cut/joint accordingly.
Stuart Noble
I guess so
IMO the principle with fitted stuff is that you pretend the room is
square and then do whatever is necessary to the plaster. Once you start
following the wall, there are knock-on effects with base units not
lining up etc. If you get those bolted together and against the wall,
you get a clearer idea of the angle, and what the options are.
F
> What's the best way to joint two worktops in an out-of-square corner
> (>90) using a standard worktop jig?
I had this problem but solved it by setting up the base units so they
were square, placing the worktop on top, and then fixing the wall.
Some of the plaster had to be cut away and there was also a section
where the tiles had a lot of adhesive on their back!
--
F
mike
> Measure the angle, or work it out.
> EG. 2 metres long, 20mm gap at one end, tapering to no gap at other end.
> Worktop is 600mm wide, so the measurment would be
> 600mm/2000mm = 0.3
> 0.3 x 20mm = 6mm
>
> So you'd need to pack your jig out 6mm at the appropriate end.
> Easily checked by drawing some lines on the worktop before setting it
> up.
>
> There will be no problems with mating up for such small angles, if it is
> going to be tiled afterwards, you can get away with a gap of 10mm or so,
> though it is not ideal. I aim for a gap of 5mm each side if the worktop
> is between 2 walls.
> Alan.
Useful info. Thanks for that.
mike
> I had this problem but solved it by setting up the base units so they
> were square, placing the worktop on top, and then fixing the wall.
>
> Some of the plaster had to be cut away and there was also a section
> where the tiles had a lot of adhesive on their back!
> F
Thanks for all the replies, everyone.