Fixing greenhouse base?
Osprey
I am pouring a concrete base for this tomorrow ... all plants will be
grown in containers/pots.
Just thinking about what/how to fit base to slab.
Previous owner has it fitted to 2x1 battens.
Thinking is that I fix 2"x2" treated wood to slab and then fit frame
to that ........ as it won't be in contact with ground, hoping it will
have a long life.
I could chamfer edges to help water shedding.
Not sure whether I would gain anything by fitting a DPC under the
timber.
Only other option would be to lay a course of bricks ... but would
seem a lot of faff.
Any better ideas.
Roger Mills
Why not just bolt the aluminium frame to the concrete? Do you *need* to
add some height?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.
Tabby
Why don't you show us a close up of the bottom of the ali. I certainly
wouldnt want to put wood there.
NT
chris French
Streater <timst...@waitrose.com> writes
>In article
><5a244f68-7253-4c69...@d28g2000yqf.googlegroups.com>,
>Osprey <rick_...@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>> Just bought 2nd hand aluminium green house - Eden 8 x 10
>> I am pouring a concrete base for this tomorrow ... all plants will
>>be
>> grown in containers/pots.
>> Just thinking about what/how to fit base to slab.
>> Previous owner has it fitted to 2x1 battens.
>> Thinking is that I fix 2"x2" treated wood to slab and then fit frame
>> to that ........ as it won't be in contact with ground, hoping it will
>> have a long life. I could chamfer edges to help water shedding.
>
>fixing kit from the manufacturer that was actually meant for another
>model, and just drilled through the outer flange. Inserted a plastic
>wallplug in each hole and then screwed into that. It seemed to us that
>anything else would indeed be a faff.
>
dpends on the design. Some greenhouses come with an Al base, or can have
one as an accessory that is deigned to fit directly onto concrete or
whatever. Others, and typically older ones, often seem to have a bottom
designed to fit on top of a wall or timbers etc. all 3 greenhouses
we've had 2 in the last place, and the one here are like this.
An advantage of a course of bricks or blocks is you get some extra
height in the greenhouses (at the cost of a bit more of a step into the
GH.) Depending on the GH, the user and the things you might want to
grow, this extra height can be useful.
It's what I used for both the GH we moved/put up in our old garden.
Course of concrete block onto a concrete base, treated timbers fixed to
the top with frame fixings (IIRC) and then the GH fixed to that with
brass screws.
But treated timbers on the concrete would be fine I think.
chamfering sound waste of time, it's the bit at the bottom that is
likely to rot first if anything as that can hold moisture underneath it.
--
Chris French
Chris J Dixon
>Just bought 2nd hand aluminium green house - Eden 8 x 10
>
>Only other option would be to lay a course of bricks ... but would
>seem a lot of faff.
>
I did one on a dwarf brick wall many years ago. One thing that I
hadn't allowed for was the thermal expansion. I had tidied it all
up with a mortar fillet all round, but after a couple of seasons
much of it had cracked off.
Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
ch...@cdixon.me.uk
Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.
damdu...@yahoo.co.uk
<newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote:
>
>dpends on the design. Some greenhouses come with an Al base, or can have
>one as an accessory that is deigned to fit directly onto concrete or
>whatever. Others, and typically older ones, often seem to have a bottom
>designed to fit on top of a wall or timbers etc. all 3 greenhouses
>we've had 2 in the last place, and the one here are like this.
>
>An advantage of a course of bricks or blocks is you get some extra
>height in the greenhouses (at the cost of a bit more of a step into the
>GH.) Depending on the GH, the user and the things you might want to
>grow, this extra height can be useful.
>
Ours was mounted on a course of bricks. An immediate advantage of this
I found was it was far easier to drill through a brick when SHMBO
decided that she would like a power supply in there for a
propagator,heater etc and a water supply for a watering system.
Same if mounted on some wood or blocks but if bolted straight down
then getting services in tidely might be awkard unless you have had
the foresight to leave ducts in the concrete base. Some greenhouses
may have enough material under the glass that you can drill through
so if yours is like that it won't matter.
G.Harman
chris French
<29f928d5-2565-420d...@l5g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
Tabby <meow...@care2.com> writes
wood was the sensible option whne I did ours in the old house. both had
an inverted L shaped section at the base of the greenhouse. so it needed
to fit over something. I could ahve fixed just to the brick, but that
required possibly rather more accuracy in bricklaying that I could rely
on - esp. as the Gh was 2nd hand in bits at the time. Fixing lengths of
timber along the top first was easier to get them just the right.
The current Gh though I've just looked while ion the garden and it does
have a flat base so could go straight onto a wall, concrete etc.
--
Chris French
harry
If you're worried about the base (usually galv.) rusting, give it a
coat of hammerite or black bitumen before you install it. Then put a
bead of silicon under it before you screw it down.
I wouldn't putany wood in there.
Rick Hughes
"Roger Mills" <watt....@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8vn0oo...@mid.individual.net...
> On 01/04/2011 21:44, Osprey wrote:
>> Just bought 2nd hand aluminium green house - Eden 8 x 10
> add some height?
The profile is lipped ... it expects to sit on something
Rick Hughes
"chris French" <newspos...@familyfrench.co.uk> wrote in message
news:C2oMpJnT...@blackhole.familyfrench.co.uk...
> It's what I used for both the GH we moved/put up in our old garden. Course
> of concrete block onto a concrete base, treated timbers fixed to the top
> with frame fixings (IIRC) and then the GH fixed to that with brass screws.
>
> But treated timbers on the concrete would be fine I think.
>
> chamfering sound waste of time, it's the bit at the bottom that is likely
> to rot first if anything as that can hold moisture underneath it.
> --
> Chris French
Even if I did brick a dwarf wall the top of bricks is not going to be
perfectly flat enough to put the L section on, like you describe, I think it
will still need a timber ...
Housemartin
> Even if I did brick a dwarf wall the top of bricks is not going to be
> perfectly flat enough to put the L section on, like you describe, I think it
> will still need a timber ...
If you put a course of bricks or breeze block down you can put a layer
of render on top of them and then set the frame on to it while the
render is still wet that way any small discrepancy's will be
alleviated.
Also you can drill straight into the block and use some frame fixings
to secure it further.
Roger Mills
Then how about some square section aluminium tube under the lip? Drill
right through that, and screw to the concrete.
Tim Watts
Or run a bead of mortar around and bed it on that (it's how my dad did his).
--
Tim Watts
timjh0
> > perfectly flat enough to put the L section on, like you describe, I think
> > it
> > will still need a timber ...
I did 4 rows of bricks a few years ago for ours, top row turned upside
down to give a flatter surface. That was flat enough for the GH. I ran
another 4 rows of bicks as an "n" viewed from the door giving a
raised bed to plant into - no silly little grow bags. Oh and a hole in
a brick course to bring a hose in for an automatic waterer.
John Miller
"Osprey" wrote in message
news:5a244f68-7253-4c69...@d28g2000yqf.googlegroups.com...
Any better ideas.
--------------------------
When I had one many years ago, I mounted it on some old kerbstones that I
had access to and bolted the greenhouse to them. It never moved! Then just
flagged the inside and used growbags or containers.
John M
chris French
<7cddf36b-9217-4e7e...@cu4g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
timjh0 <tim.j...@btinternet.com> writes
>> > Even if I did brick a dwarf wall the top of bricks is not going to be
>> > perfectly flat enough to put the L section on, like you describe, I think
>> > it
>> > will still need a timber ...
>
>I did 4 rows of bricks a few years ago for ours, top row turned upside
>down to give a flatter surface. That was flat enough for the GH. I ran
>another 4 rows of bicks as an "n" viewed from the door giving a
>raised bed to plant into - no silly little grow bags.
There are swings and roundabouts to using beds or containers/gowbags to
grow things in.
We had 2 GH in the last house, one solid floor, one with beds. Currently
we have one. For a single relatively small GH I think I prefer solid
floor for the flexibility it gives.
--
Chris French
Rick Hughes
That is why I have put a slab down ... the ground will not grow anything, it
would need fully raised beds ... and then you are looking to do significant
changes or improvement to soil each year.
I'll use reusable grow bags ..
http://www.robertdyas.co.uk/P~149577~Giant+Reusable+Grow+Bag
Tabby
wrote:
> In message
> <29f928d5-2565-420d-bf35-b81c257d7...@l5g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,
> Tabby <meow2...@care2.com> writes
Wood may be easier, but rot is then to be expected, in an otherwise
much longer lasting structure.
NT
chris French
<21be5b91-2ee8-4008...@p16g2000vbo.googlegroups.com>,
Tabby <meow...@care2.com> writes
We moved both the GH. One must have been there 15-20 years. It was was
while ago now, but AFAICR their was wood under the base of one of them
and that was still pretty sound
--
Chris French
Rick Hughes
> On 02/04/2011 15:24, Rick Hughes wrote:
>>
>> "Roger Mills" <watt....@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:8vn0oo...@mid.individual.net...
>>> On 01/04/2011 21:44, Osprey wrote:
>>>> Just bought 2nd hand aluminium green house - Eden 8 x 10
>>> Why not just bolt the aluminium frame to the concrete? Do you *need*
>>> to add some height?
>>
>>
>> The profile is lipped ... it expects to sit on something
>
> Then how about some square section aluminium tube under the lip? Drill
> right through that, and screw to the concrete.
> --
good thought .... not sure where I would get it, but maybe a uPVC window
company ... some use in for strength in the box sections.
Donnie
>
> "Roger Mills" <watt....@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8vot66...@mid.individual.net...
> > On 02/04/2011 15:24, Rick Hughes wrote:
> > >
> >>"Roger Mills" <watt....@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:8vn0oo...@mid.individual.net...
> > > > On 01/04/2011 21:44, Osprey wrote:
> > > > > Just bought 2nd hand aluminium green house - Eden 8 x 10
> > > > Why not just bolt the aluminium frame to the concrete? Do you
> > > > need to add some height?
> > >
> > >
> > > The profile is lipped ... it expects to sit on something
> >
> > Then how about some square section aluminium tube under the lip?
> > Drill right through that, and screw to the concrete.
> > --
>
>
> good thought .... not sure where I would get it, but maybe a uPVC
> window company ... some use in for strength in the box sections.
I just bought some 2 x 3 from wickes for mine, seems fine to me.
--
Donnie - "Fuck the world, it's time to fight back"
Honda CB500R "Look out, Donnie's about!"
Lambretta Series 2 186cc "The Shitter"
Lambretta LD 175cc "The Chopper"
Rick Hughes
"Osprey" <rick_...@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:5a244f68-7253-4c69...@d28g2000yqf.googlegroups.com...
> Just bought 2nd hand aluminium green house - Eden 8 x 10
OK ... decided on way forward ... thought I'd post solution for others.
I have bought 150 x 50 x 910 mm precast concrete rear pavement edging.
These are square edged, and being 910 long should be much easier to get
accurate in terms of plum & level, needing only 4 to do full side instead of
16 bricks.
This will also add 150mm to effective eaves height ... which people advise
is a good thing, and being 50mm thick does not take up any room inside
greenhouse.
So that is the job for tomorrow ... not done any trowel work for a few
years... so will be interesting.