Chuck not gripping
Invisible Man
(apart from never being able to find chuck keys before hand tightened
chucks).
Currently my cordless is a Ryobi CDI-1801 18.0v
However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times. Any
tips (apart from replacing the drill)?
TIA for any ideas.
Completely separate. I tend to scrape screws across a soft bar of soap
before use to reduce friction as they go in. I saw a thread fairly
recently where somebody suggested something better. Can someone remind
me please?
TIA again
Cicero
================================================
Replace the chuck if worn out.
Vaseline (Petroleum jelly) for threads.
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
David in Normandy
> I've had various drills over the years without problems as I recall
> (apart from never being able to find chuck keys before hand tightened
> chucks).
>
> Currently my cordless is a Ryobi CDI-1801 18.0v
>
> However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times. Any
> tips (apart from replacing the drill)?
>
I've had similar problems and found that "washing" the chuck out with
several squirts of WD40 can sometimes help. You can end up with all
manner of fine debris building up in the chuck especially if you do any
masonry holes and this sometimes prevents the chuck from tightening
fully on the drill bits or from opening the chuck fully. Worth a try.
--
David in Normandy. Davidin...@yahoo.fr
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.
Tim Lamb
<invi...@invalid.invalid> writes
>I've had various drills over the years without problems as I recall
>(apart from never being able to find chuck keys before hand tightened
>chucks).
>
>Currently my cordless is a Ryobi CDI-1801 18.0v
>
>However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times. Any
>tips (apart from replacing the drill)?
Pay more for your drill bits and get tempered shanks?
>
>TIA for any ideas.
>
>Completely separate. I tend to scrape screws across a soft bar of soap
>before use to reduce friction as they go in. I saw a thread fairly
>recently where somebody suggested something better. Can someone remind
>me please?
My old maths master recommended lanolin dipped screws for boat building.
regards
--
Tim Lamb
Usenet Nutter
>Completely separate. I tend to scrape screws across a soft bar of soap
>before use to reduce friction as they go in. I saw a thread fairly
>recently where somebody suggested something better. Can someone remind
>me please?
>
>TIA again
Would silicon spray do ?
Andy Dingley
> Completely separate. I tend to scrape screws across a soft bar of soap
> before use to reduce friction as they go in. I saw a thread fairly
> recently where somebody suggested something better. Can someone remind
> me please?
Candle wax rather than soap, as soap encourages rust (and hellish iron
stain on oak!) in the future.
Candles should be the stump of some decent quality hippie stuff,
ideally scented, as that's an indication they're actually paraffin wax
(or beeswax). If you use cheapies (esp from Ikea, esp white ones with
a coloured overdip, esp. tealights) they're made from cheaper stearin
instead of parafiin wax. This is too hard and tends to fall off your
screws before you've inserted them.
Andy Dingley
> However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times.
Better drill: chuck quality does vary, and it's one of the things that
improves on better (more expensive) drills. Roehm is usually OK, but
Ryobi's genius is in value engineering down to the point where it
still works, but it doesn't half piss you off while you're using it.
Better chuck. There are two designs of these, one-handed and two-
handed mechanisms. One-handed are apparently better, but I'd have to
find the 2-year old(?) copy of Fine Woodworking that had an excellent
review article on this. Again, more money gets you th egood stuff.
Straight jaws. Don't bounce the drill on its nose.
Clean jaws. Don't fill the chuck with grit. If you have and it's an
old keyed Jacobs, you can strip it and clean it, re-packing with
grease. If it's modern, you can't practically do this. If it's known
to be full of grit, then flush it clean with carb cleaner / parts
washer / ultrasonic tank and then re-pack it with Finishline XC
aerosol bike chain lube (solvent loaded, so it goes in, then turns
sticky and greasy). Finishline XC is one of the best waterproof
sprayable lubes I've found and I use it everywhere - good for most
locks too, expecially levers or padlocks. Note that greasing a modern
keyless chuck can ruin it - some parts rely on having friction - so
this is a bit of a last resort.
Hex shanks rather than round shanks. Apparently that helps, if the
chuck is marginal.
Round shanks. If you've spun a drill and raised a burr, then file it
off.
Soft, grippable shanks. Hard shanks (weird drills, cheap golden
drills) are inelastic, thus hard to grip.
John Rumm
> On 6 Nov, 10:09, Invisible Man <invisi...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>
>> However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times.
>
> Better drill: chuck quality does vary, and it's one of the things that
> improves on better (more expensive) drills. Roehm is usually OK, but
> Ryobi's genius is in value engineering down to the point where it
> still works, but it doesn't half piss you off while you're using it.
>
> Better chuck. There are two designs of these, one-handed and two-
> handed mechanisms. One-handed are apparently better, but I'd have to
> find the 2-year old(?) copy of Fine Woodworking that had an excellent
> review article on this. Again, more money gets you th egood stuff.
One comment worth mentioning on one handed (and I agree they are
noticeably better), is you can't retrofit a one handed chuck to a drill
not designed for it, since the drill must have an automatic armature
lock. Otherwise the shaft would just turn when you tighten the chuck.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
Invisible Man
> Andy Dingley wrote:
>> On 6 Nov, 10:09, Invisible Man <invisi...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>> However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times.
>>
>> Better drill: chuck quality does vary, and it's one of the things that
>> improves on better (more expensive) drills. Roehm is usually OK, but
>> Ryobi's genius is in value engineering down to the point where it
>> still works, but it doesn't half piss you off while you're using it.
>>
>> Better chuck. There are two designs of these, one-handed and two-
>> handed mechanisms. One-handed are apparently better, but I'd have to
>> find the 2-year old(?) copy of Fine Woodworking that had an excellent
>> review article on this. Again, more money gets you th egood stuff.
>
> One comment worth mentioning on one handed (and I agree they are
> noticeably better), is you can't retrofit a one handed chuck to a drill
> not designed for it, since the drill must have an automatic armature
> lock. Otherwise the shaft would just turn when you tighten the chuck.
>
>
>
>
not replace it.
NT
> Andy Dingley wrote:
> > On 6 Nov, 10:09, Invisible Man <invisi...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>
> >> However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times.
>
> > Better drill: chuck quality does vary, and it's one of the things that
> > improves on better (more expensive) drills. Roehm is usually OK, but
> > Ryobi's genius is in value engineering down to the point where it
> > still works, but it doesn't half piss you off while you're using it.
>
> > Better chuck. There are two designs of these, one-handed and two-
> > handed mechanisms. One-handed are apparently better, but I'd have to
> > find the 2-year old(?) copy of Fine Woodworking that had an excellent
> > review article on this. Again, more money gets you th egood stuff.
>
> One comment worth mentioning on one handed (and I agree they are
> noticeably better), is you can't retrofit a one handed chuck to a drill
> not designed for it, since the drill must have an automatic armature
> lock. Otherwise the shaft would just turn when you tighten the chuck.
Many drills work that way, and seem to work ok with no armature lock.
You get more tightening force if you
a) set the drill to low speed gearing
b) yank it tight quickly
not really upto masony hammer drilling though, for which a lot more
tightness is needed. Dont do a whole lot of that now though, due to
sds.
If you dont get the chuck sorted, just replace it, only a fiver.
NT
The Medway Handyman
> Invisible Man wrote:
>> I've had various drills over the years without problems as I recall
>> (apart from never being able to find chuck keys before hand tightened
>> chucks).
>>
>> Currently my cordless is a Ryobi CDI-1801 18.0v
>>
>> However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times.
>> Any tips (apart from replacing the drill)?
>>
>
> I've had similar problems and found that "washing" the chuck out with
> several squirts of WD40 can sometimes help. You can end up with all
> manner of fine debris building up in the chuck especially if you do
> any masonry holes and this sometimes prevents the chuck from
> tightening fully on the drill bits or from opening the chuck fully.
> Worth a try.
Wahoo! Another use for the wonder product!
--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.
R
"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:sv2Jm.2421$Ym4...@text.news.virginmedia.com...
Makes superb shine on Horses coats too before show....
Bob Eager
> I've had similar problems and found that "washing" the chuck out with
> several squirts of WD40 can sometimes help. You can end up with all
> manner of fine debris building up in the chuck especially if you do any
> masonry holes and this sometimes prevents the chuck from tightening
> fully on the drill bits or from opening the chuck fully. Worth a try.
It's a good thing that WD40 isn't a lubricant, or it might slip even more
badly ! :-)
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org
Dave
How did you find that out, before the horse kicked you, because of the
smell? :-)
Dave
R
"Dave" <dave...@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:qJidnYqueo3nAGjX...@bt.com...
Well known in the 'orsey word sunbeam
The Medway Handyman
And I have to ask the question - has anyone ever heard a horse squeaking?
No.
Thus proving beyond any doubt that WD40 is a lubricant.
David in Normandy
What do you call a foal with a sore throat?
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
... a little horse.
(I'll get my coat)
Rod
<>
>
> And I have to ask the question - has anyone ever heard a horse squeaking?
>
> No.
>
> Thus proving beyond any doubt that WD40 is a lubricant.
>
>
have a squeaky penis. (Couldn't decide how much of a wind up it was.)
Never heard him mention WD40 though.
--
Rod
Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rod <poly...@ntlworld.com> saying
something like:
>A number of years ago a colleague kept going on about his wife's horse
>have a squeaky penis.
Was he French?
Perhaps referring to his wife's arse and its noisy entrance.
Rod
I think it was more to do with this:
<http://www.equusite.com/articles/health/healthSheathCleaning.shtml>
Which is far more than I ever wanted to know about the subject.
--
Rod