Angle grinder for cutting wood
john hamilton
diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
metal.
Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
grinder.
Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.
DanG
If it's so thin, just snap it over your knee. If you can't snap
it over your knee, you need a circular saw and carbide blade. You
could use a jig saw or reciprocating saw if that was something you
already had. There are wood cutting blades for offset grinders,
but they are VERY dangerous unless you are well versed in their
use and even then can really hurt you - I would NOT suggest one.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"john hamilton" <blue...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:hsmuhp$g0n$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
wrote:
>Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
>diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
>metal.
>
>Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
>wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
>whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
>any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
>grinder.
No. A grinder will more likely start the wood on fire than cut it. There is
good reason you don't find wood "blades" for an angle grinder. It's
absolutely the wrong tool for the job.
>Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
>so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
>vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
>the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.
A circular saw will work fine. Be careful with nails, though. A circular saw
will cut them (as long as you don't care about the blade) but it might throw
them too. Wear *lots* of protection. A "Sawsall" (reciprocating saw) is a
better tool for the job, though.
js.b1
recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
You can use a cheap jigsaw with wood ripping blade if you cut them
over a table. Very quick unless stuff is >2in thick.
You can use a reciprocating saw - like a normal handsaw but two blades
driven like hedge trimmer blades, but they cost somewhat more (better
for chopping thro old studwork).
I would not suggest even a handheld circular because of the risk - you
are working "sloppy-fast" which could result in kickback or accidents.
The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
lot quicker than you realise.
Oren
<blue...@mail.invalid> wrote:
The best "circular disc" is the one on your "circular saw". It was
mentioned about using the right tool for the job.
Got a sharp axe, matches maybe?
aemeijers
states we have something called 'Harbor Freight' that sells low-end
(mainly Chinese) power tools at very low prices. They aren't any good
for fine woodworking, but for something like this they would be more
than adequate. Search online, in your local phone book, or in the
second-tier shopping centers near where you live. Odds are there is
something like that over there. What you need is a reciprocating saw
with a demolition blade. It is one long blade (not two, like the other
post implied), that goes back and forth like a handsaw. It would make
short work of your pile of salvage lumber. You are trying to salvage it,
right? If this is just for burning, a plain axe will do what you need,
or even a plain handsaw.
The reciprocating saw likely would have made the demolition process a
lot less painful, as well. I only use mine once a year or so, but for
certain jobs, it is a lifesaver.
--
aem sends...
JIMMIE
A wood cutting plade for an angle grinder is available. I is a disk
with chainsaw teeth on it. Think it is used for carving. Definitly not
what you want.
Jimmie
Dave Liquorice
> The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
> lot quicker than you realise.
The OP hasn't said what he intends to do with the cut wood. If it's
for a wood burner reasonably uniform size and few splinters is
desirable. Sawing would be the best, I used my table saw (and an old
blade) to cut down the shiplap from our shed refurbishment. That was
for the open fire.
If it's just to make managable for a bonfire, the quickest will be
snapping though over ones knee will probably end up with a bruised
knee fairly quickly. Much better to have a block on the ground a few
inches high and tough pair of boots and use your weight or a stomp to
break it up. I reckon that will be faster than a jigsaw and you still
have the problem of holding the timber.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Lee Michaels
"john hamilton" <blue...@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:hsmuhp$g0n$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
disc for the mini grinder.
The capacity for this thing to grab things and throw them into your body is
probably infinite. The only way I would use anything like this if the
material was locked down into a big, secure vise. I would also wear gloves,
face protection and heavy clothing.
In some ways this is like cutting small limbs with a chain saw. The saw
grabs anything that is not solidly secured and throws it. And a certain
percentage of the time it hits you. And it hurts.
The number one rule of cutting anything small like this is to secure the
stock before cutting it. Any movement of the stock can be dangerous.
js.b1
> What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
> It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
> that goes back and forth like a handsaw.
I think there are 2 types...
- Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
- Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away
Unsure which is cheaper, but more search strings :-)
Alligator saws are more useful for general cutting.
Demolition saws, well they are certainly good at that.
spamlet
"js.b1" <js...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:962be143-b6fb-479f...@40g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
I have a very cheap Wilkinson's 'Swallow' jigsaw which came with a good
selection of blades. After making up maybe 20' of fence going up a steep
slope, from old rescued fence boards of all different lengths, I was amazed
at how easy it was to put a nice profile right along the top using one of
the longer coarsish blades. Should be fine for your shed.
I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
fit enough to use hand saws...
S
Tim Watts
I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available in
9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised for
wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps (1/8-1/4") of
abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked bloody viscous - sadly
I can't remember the name.
A google for angle grinder and tree roots might turn up something... Or
ring Alsfords in Hastings (assuming you're in the UK) and ask them what
those bastard evil discs on the front counter in the display stand are
called...
--
Tim Watts
Hung parliament? Rather have a hanged parliament.
Jim Yanik
news:hsn749$dcj$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
diamond discs would gum up from resins and overheat quickly.
They are made for ceramics and metals,not wood.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
Tim Watts
It wasn't a diamond disc - very clearly nothing like one to the eye - in
fact I've never seen anything like it before...
Nonny
"Tim Watts" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:hsn9in$36m$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
I've seen 4" blades for angle grinders that incorporate a chainsaw
chain. They're used for coarse shaping for carvings. In fact, I
saw one in use making a totem pole in Alaska and it really worked
well.
I also have seen a 4" disk with extremely coarse carbide crystals
on it, but it was for use in an oscillating saw that just looked
like an angle grinder, and was used more for sanding than for
cutting.
--
Nonny
On most days,
it's just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..
Mark & Juanita
What he said. I had to replace my evaporative cooler and got a
reciprocating saw to cut up the old one. I looked at Harbor Freight and
decided that going with a good Milwaukee Sawzall was going to be more cost
effective in the long run. It doesn't cut pretty, but it is quick and
effective at reducing large pieces of junk to small pieces of junk.
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
Mike Marlow
> Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
> recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination, but not
for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel on the grinder,
but instead has everything to do with where on contacts the wheel.
Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the part of a user does not make
a tool suicidal.
>
> You can use a cheap jigsaw with wood ripping blade if you cut them
> over a table. Very quick unless stuff is >2in thick.
> You can use a reciprocating saw - like a normal handsaw but two blades
> driven like hedge trimmer blades, but they cost somewhat more (better
> for chopping thro old studwork).
A reciprocating saw more typically just has one blade that simply, well...
reciprocates.
>
> I would not suggest even a handheld circular because of the risk - you
> are working "sloppy-fast" which could result in kickback or accidents.
> The jigsaw would probably be best for thin cladding (shiplap etc), a
> lot quicker than you realise.
It's fairly difficult to develop kickback with a circular saw. Not
impossible, but not easy. A circular saw would make a good choice for
materials 1/2" and up. Below that, I'd probably just break the stuff over
my knee...
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Harry Bloomfield
> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
> were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
> fit enough to use hand saws...
The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
The Medway Handyman
> js.b1 wrote:
>
>> Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
>> recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
>
> Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
> but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
> on the grinder, but instead has everything to do with where on
> contacts the wheel. Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the
> part of a user does not make a tool suicidal.
More like homicidal then. You wouldn't get me within 10' of one. Madness.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Dave Plowman (News)
Angle grinders scare me enough when used on the things they're meant for,
with the correct blade. Dunno what I'm doing on this group. ;-)
--
*Half the people in the world are below average.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Bruce
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <DkOHn.43139$lS.3...@newsfe21.ams2>,
> The Medway Handyman <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> > js.b1 wrote:
>> >
>> >> Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
>> >> recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
>> >
>> > Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
>> > but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
>> > on the grinder, but instead has everything to do with where on
>> > contacts the wheel. Suicidal? Not at all. One stupid move on the
>> > part of a user does not make a tool suicidal.
>
>> More like homicidal then. You wouldn't get me within 10' of one.
>> Madness.
>
>Angle grinders scare me enough when used on the things they're meant for,
>with the correct blade. Dunno what I'm doing on this group. ;-)
Time you bought that pressure washer. :-)
tony sayer
Bloomfield <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> scribeth thus
>spamlet has brought this to us :
>> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
>> were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
>> fit enough to use hand saws...
>
>The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
>hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
>tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
>
Bet you go thru the blades doing that;!...
Which one have U got?..
73's
--
Tony Sayer
Harry Bloomfield
No, none have worn out yet. I've managed to cut 12" trees down with it,
lots of roots and cut 4" alloy bar stock.
>
> Which one have U got?..
The blue black Aldi variable speed one. The spring which closes the
lever for foot adjustment seems to have weakened (may just be choked up
with saw dust), other than that it works well.
stuart noble
being cut can be thrown clear of the next tooth. If the blade cannot
clear itself, there is just friction but no cutting.
In the old days B&D used to do a 5" circular saw blade as a drill
attachment. Can't imagine what it could have been used for, but at least
it wasn't spinning at 10,000 rpm
Andrew Gabriel
stuart noble <stuart...@ntlworld.com> writes:
> A sawblade has individual teeth is so that the debris from the material
> being cut can be thrown clear of the next tooth. If the blade cannot
> clear itself, there is just friction but no cutting.
> In the old days B&D used to do a 5" circular saw blade as a drill
> attachment. Can't imagine what it could have been used for, but at least
> it wasn't spinning at 10,000 rpm
I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
(the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
forgotten).
However, this brings up an important point... An angle grinder spins
much faster than the safe operating speed for a circular saw blade,
so don't even think about going there.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Bruce
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>
>I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
>(the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
>It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
>available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
>of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
>jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
>forgotten).
My father had the B&D circular saw attachment and the finishing sander
attachment. I inherited them and used them for a few years.
When I finally got around to buying a Bosch circular saw, I wondered
why on earth I had struggled on with the clunky B&D attachment.
js.b1
wrote:
> js.b1 wrote:
> > Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
> > recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
>
> Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination, but not
> for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel on the grinder,
Fuckwit.
A diamond disc will not cut wood due to the mimimal depth of the
cutting surfaces, it will instead burn through whilst spinning at
circa 10,000 RPM.
A diamond disc with sintered tabs, several long teeth interspersed by
gaps, will snag on the wood fibres - flinging unsecured wood at some
function of the 80m/sec disc speed, kicking back off sufficiently
immovable wood or shredding wood into a fibrous pulp rather than
efficiently cutting. With sintered tab on wood there is some risk of
ejecting a tab or a limited risk of catastrophic disc fracturing from
a tab gap (most discs have the tab slot ending at a circular hole to
reduce crack propogation across the disc causing separation which at
circa 10,000rpm would be unpleasant).
A diamond disc that is continuous (does not have a tabbed perimeter)
will just bounce off the surface or burn through.
This is exactly how someone killed themselves with a diamond disc in
an angle grinder, it kicked back off a tree stump and embedded itself
in their neck severing an artery. Most likely a tabbed diamond disc
where the slots snagged on a particularly resilient group of wood
fibres so launching the grinder up into the victim's neck.
Any blade for wood cutting at angle-grinder RPM will need to have a
very robust disc construction, very robust teeth to resist the peak
shear forces along with an appropriate tip cutting angle, and large
inter teeth gap to handle the extremely high material ejection levels
at such high RPM. That is to say teeth gaps of several millimetres
compared to the sub-milimetre gap for diamond cutting brick particle
ejection.
> A reciprocating saw more typically just has one blade that simply, well...
> reciprocates.
Alligator saw has double blades, demolition saw has single blade. An
alligator saw is a lot more useful to a DIYer.
Mike Marlow
> On May 16, 4:26 am, "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREM...@windstream.net>
> wrote:
>> js.b1 wrote:
>>> Diamond blade plus angle grinder on a treet stump killed someone
>>> recently (kickback into neck). Suicidal.
>>
>> Bull. Diamond wheel on an angle grinder is the wrong combination,
>> but not for that reason. Kickback has nothing to do with the wheel
>> on the grinder,
>
> Fuckwit.
Potty mouth.
>
> A diamond disc will not cut wood due to the mimimal depth of the
> cutting surfaces, it will instead burn through whilst spinning at
> circa 10,000 RPM.
Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.
>
> This is exactly how someone killed themselves with a diamond disc in
> an angle grinder, it kicked back off a tree stump and embedded itself
> in their neck severing an artery. Most likely a tabbed diamond disc
> where the slots snagged on a particularly resilient group of wood
> fibres so launching the grinder up into the victim's neck.
It's clear you don't use an angle grinder much. Any wheel in an angle
grinder is capable of kick back. All you have to do is contact the leading
edge of the rotating wheel. To my point - it's not a matter of the wheel in
use, it's a matter of where you contact it.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
stuart noble
> Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
> still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.
>
My simple circular saw RPM is less than half that. Peripheral speed
unknown though
Bob F
> spamlet has brought this to us :
>> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl
>> when they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I
>> thought I'd always be fit enough to use hand saws...
>
> The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get
> a hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for
> cutting tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
And there's always harbor freight for a cheap source. Better than using an angle
grinder and having an accident.
stuart noble
> In article <qpQHn.90823$f04....@newsfe08.ams2>,
>> In the old days B&D used to do a 5" circular saw blade as a drill
>> attachment.
>
>
>> Can't imagine what it could have been used for,
>
> floorboard :-)
>
Yes, I can imagine ripping a floorboard with that thing :-)
John Rumm
Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
stuart noble
> On 16/05/2010 14:48, stuart noble wrote:
>>
>>> Don't use many angle grinders do you? Regardless of the 10,000 RPM, it
>>> still does not approach the speed of a simple circular saw or a sawzall.
>>>
>>
>> My simple circular saw RPM is less than half that. Peripheral speed
>> unknown though
>
> Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
> that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec
>
I knew I could count on you :-)
dennis@home
"Harry Bloomfield" <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:mn.828f7da58b...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk...
> The blue black Aldi variable speed one. The spring which closes the lever
> for foot adjustment seems to have weakened (may just be choked up with saw
> dust), other than that it works well.
I have an even cheaper PPro one I bought in a clearance and it does roots
really well.
It says maximum cut 100mm but it cuts anything the blade fits, I have some
10" green wood blades and it works fine.
For demolition I have some tungsten tipped blades and just cut through the
wood and metal.
The whole lot was ~ￜ20.
js.b1
> John Rumm wrote:
> > Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
> > that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec
Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
hypersonic speed would be fun.
> I knew I could count on you :-)
RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.
At 4,500rpm you have almost 100 miles per hour. At 10,000rpm you have
200 miles per hour. Quite a few angle grinders run 12,000rpm, still
far below the sound barrier.
Due to the way an angle grinder is mechanically driven, stopping one
in motion as with a tree root will hurl the saw at speed. A chainsaw
will not do this hence eminently less dangeous than a freakin angle
grinder.
Alligator saw is expensive but handles both demolition & general
precise wood cutting, a jigsaw with a wood ripping blade is cheaper.
aemeijers
--
aem sends...
Mike Marlow
You are correct - my error in the way I stated that. I meant to say it does
not approach the speed of the cut of a circular saw.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>spamlet has brought this to us :
>> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
>> were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
>> fit enough to use hand saws...
>
>The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
>hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
>tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
With the right blade the sawzall will cut just about anything, just
about anywhere.
And unlike the cheap clones, it will do it decade after decade.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
And MOST people who know enough to use the angle grinder safely would
also know enough, and have the equipment available, to use the right
tool for the job.
To safely act as a saw, a rotating tool should also have a "shoe",
like a circular saw.
And it's not the RPM that counts, it's the surface (cutting) speed. A
5" blade needs to run a LOT faster than a 10" blade to give the same
cutting speed, or to have the same danger of throwing a tip
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Just checked a couple saws. One, a 6.5" runs 3700RPM for a cutting
speed of 6269sfpm.
Another, 7.25" @ 5000 rpm for 9490sfpm.
a 5" grinder @10,000 rpm is 13090 sfpm -
aemeijers
Valid, but only relevant if you are making money with it, or use it a
LOT. For occasional users like me, a cheap knockoff like my B&D corded
that I bought almost new at a garage sale for 20? bucks, is probably
more than sufficient. It probably wouldn't last a month on an active
jobsite, but at a dozen or so cuts a year, it will outlast me.
Don't get me wrong- Milwaukee tools (at least the pro-grade they used to
sell at the supply houses- never looked at the big-box versions) are
great, but for those of us with limited demands and a limited budget,
they are overkill. Like buying Snap-on wrenches to change the lawnmower
sparkplug once a year.
--
aem sends...
HeyBub
> Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
> diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding
> tiles and metal.
>
> Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up
> all the wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs
> available for it, whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting
> wood with? I cannot find any discs that are said to be specifially
> for wood for this type of angle grinder.
>
> Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the
> place) so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too
> hefty and vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any
> suggestions on the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.
Well, no.
First, the basic rule is the inverse relationship between tooth size and
material hardness: The harder the material, the smaller the teeth
(generally). For cutting granite, you use diamonds; for cutting soft wood
you use something like 24/tpi.
Second, a circular saw with a demolition blade won't even hiccup with a
nail.
Third, if the wood is too flimsy, stack up several pieces and cut the lot.
Me? I'd burn the stuff in situ and be done with it.
Lobster
> On Sun, 16 May 2010 11:25:02 +0000 (UTC), and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk
> (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
>> I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up
>> (the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course).
>> It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were
>> available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments
>> of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the
>> jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've
>> forgotten).
Somewhere I think I also still have the Vertical Drill Stand and the
Horizontal Drill Stand (aka bench-grinder conversion tool)!
> My father had the B&D circular saw attachment and the finishing sander
> attachment. I inherited them and used them for a few years.
>
> When I finally got around to buying a Bosch circular saw, I wondered
> why on earth I had struggled on with the clunky B&D attachment.
As Andrew alluded to, because of the prohibitive cost back then. I can
remember my parents buying their first (and only - Mum still has it!)
B&D drill in the early 70s. It was a 2-speed hammer job, and IIRC it
cost 30-40 GBP, which would be worth probably ten times that in todays
money. They certainly weren't a common part of people's household stuff
as they are today. Presumably other portable power tools must have been
similarly priced, accounting for the plethora of attachments you used to
buy for them. God it was a PITA always swapping them over though!
David
Lobster
> tony sayer presented the following explanation :
>> In article <mn.823f7da5b4...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk>, Harry
>> Bloomfield <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> scribeth thus
>>> spamlet has brought this to us :
>>>> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl
>>>> when they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I
>>>> thought I'd always be fit enough to use hand saws...
>>>
>>> The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get
>>> a hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for
>>> cutting tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
>>>
>>
>> Bet you go thru the blades doing that;!...
>
> No, none have worn out yet. I've managed to cut 12" trees down with it,
> lots of roots and cut 4" alloy bar stock.
What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a
need for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had
always thought they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a
bit OTT/out of my price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds
reasonably impressive...
David
DanG
ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job
cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck
on anything else.
I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the
commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please
enlighten me as I may need one some day.
You may not be strong enough to hang onto a grinder when the blade
hits something, be it a tree root or whatever, but I sure as hell
am and have done so, though that is NOT the object when using the
tool.
The reason most us have said to not use the grinder with a blade
has much more to do with the OP's opening line which said that he
was not experienced. Let it alone.
I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
of which they have no experience. If you have information or
experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
(read).
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"js.b1" <js...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:6863dc6b-de32-420d...@i31g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
John Rumm
> On May 16, 4:42 pm, stuart noble<stuart_no...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> John Rumm wrote:
>>> Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
>>> that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec
>
> Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
> hypersonic speed would be fun.
>
>> I knew I could count on you :-)
>
> RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
> Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
> Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.
Well what's a factor of 60 between friends ;-)
Yup, my bad - sorry!
Harry Bloomfield
> What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a need
> for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had always thought
> they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a bit OTT/out of my
> price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds reasonably impressive...
Travel is about 2" and the blade was 9" long, so I had to cut from
three sides to get all the way through.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
The Medway Handyman
> Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
> ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
> man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
> diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
> ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job
> cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck
> on anything else.
It wasn't a diamond blade
http://www.metro.co.uk/news/627085-man-killed-by-improvised-power-tool
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
>cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:35:11 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
>> <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> spamlet has brought this to us :
>>>> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when they
>>>> were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd always be
>>>> fit enough to use hand saws...
>>> The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
>>> hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
>>> tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
>> With the right blade the sawzall will cut just about anything, just
>> about anywhere.
>> And unlike the cheap clones, it will do it decade after decade.
>
>Valid, but only relevant if you are making money with it, or use it a
>LOT. For occasional users like me, a cheap knockoff like my B&D corded
>that I bought almost new at a garage sale for 20? bucks, is probably
>more than sufficient. It probably wouldn't last a month on an active
>jobsite, but at a dozen or so cuts a year, it will outlast me.
My Millwaukee Sawzall cost me $15.00. Got it for nothing and bought
the part that had worn out and fixed it. With the cheap ones, when
they quit they are DONE because generally parts are unavailable.
John Rumm
> Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
> ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
> man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
Hardly - a quick google will show that angle grinder fatalities are not
uncommon. In fact a builder died at a junior school local to me a few
years ago as a result of copping a diamond blade to the neck. He bled to
death on the scene in front of his son before medical help could get there.
Granted not all of these are the direct results of kickback as such -
but some form of loss of control of the tool or falling onto is
typically the cause.
> diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
> ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job
There is good Makita safety video that quite nicely demonstrates the
common lower leg injuries that occur when a grinder with diamond blade
hits a typical bit of meat under clothing.
> cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck
> on anything else.
Just because something is sub optimal for cutting flesh, does not mean
it won't.
> I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the
> commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please
> enlighten me as I may need one some day.
Its a reciprocating saw with twin counter moving blades.
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW390/
> You may not be strong enough to hang onto a grinder when the blade
> hits something, be it a tree root or whatever, but I sure as hell
> am and have done so, though that is NOT the object when using the
> tool.
Rather than continuing the willy waving, perhaps we can agree that an
angle grinder is not the tool for this job and leave it at that?
> The reason most us have said to not use the grinder with a blade
> has much more to do with the OP's opening line which said that he
> was not experienced. Let it alone.
> I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
> of which they have no experience. If you have information or
> experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
> (read).
Perhaps you might care to review some of these: (Warning, some of these
are graphic)
http://www.head-face-med.com/content/4/1/1
http://www.sswahs.nsw.gov.au/liverpool/trauma/45m.html
http://www.news.com.au/breaking-news/man-near-death-after-angle-grinder-accident/story-e6frfku0-1225820724743
http://www.citizen.co.za/index/article.aspx?pDesc=122382,1,22
John Rumm
> On May 15, 10:03 pm, aemeijers<aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
>> What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
>> It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
>> that goes back and forth like a handsaw.
>
> I think there are 2 types...
> - Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
> - Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away
There are a few variations:
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm
> Unsure which is cheaper, but more search strings :-)
Standard recip saws are cheaper for the machine, and *much* cheaper for
the blades
> Alligator saws are more useful for general cutting.
> Demolition saws, well they are certainly good at that.
John Rumm
I recall my mother buying a B&D suitcase in the early 80's, that came
with a 2 speed hammer drill and a bunch of accessories. Cost was �84
IIRC from Argos (or possibly the catalogue shop that preceded it. These
included the circular saw that got a fair bit of use (but with hindsight
was pretty poor!), an orbital sander (not too bad), and a jigsaw (had
the ergonomics of a pissed off octopus!) The drill itself is still
going... although it gets little use these days.
aemeijers
Wow- portable power tools for home use seemingly took a long winding
road in UK. (Maybe because of the different power?) All those tools you
described were available at realistic prices in the states by late 60s
early 70s- as stand-alone tools, not a 'Transformer' kit. Most homes
that had even a rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a small saber
saw, and a cheap circular saw. Sanders and such were usually only
purchased if the Mrs. was into furniture refinishing or something. This
was stuff for repairs and backyard construction of kid-stuff, not for
fine cabinetry.
Of course, my experience may be atypical- I grew up in a construction
company, and most of the kids I hung out with had fathers known to have
swung a hammer or two in their day.
--
aem sends...
Harry Bloomfield
> Wow- portable power tools for home use seemingly took a long winding road in
> UK. (Maybe because of the different power?) All those tools you described
> were available at realistic prices in the states by late 60s early 70s- as
> stand-alone tools, not a 'Transformer' kit. Most homes that had even a
> rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a small saber saw, and a cheap
> circular saw. Sanders and such were usually only purchased if the Mrs. was
> into furniture refinishing or something. This was stuff for repairs and
> backyard construction of kid-stuff, not for fine cabinetry.
The stand-alone power tools started to become affordable for DIY from
around the mid 80's in the UK. From around 2000 the prices have really
fallen, due to all of the cheap imported stuff.
My father's only power tool was a B&D drill from the 1960's, which I
know cost a small fortune when he bought it. It was beautifully made
and was still in pristine condition when I disposed of it a few years
ago - its relatively small chuck made it not very practical for modern
usage.
spamlet
> spamlet has brought this to us :
>> I also did almost buy a reciprocating saw in either Aldi of Lidl when
>> they were going v cheap last year. At the time though, I thought I'd
>> always be fit enough to use hand saws...
>
> The reciprocating saw will fit and cut, where you cannot possibly get a
> hand saw into. I have found mine to be particularly useful for cutting
> tree roots, whilst still buried in the ground.
>
> Regards,
> Harry (M1BYT) (L)
I tend to put a chain round roots - leaving a bit of the stump attached -
and then jacking the stump out of the ground using fence posts for leverage.
Of course, I'm talking garden sized things rather than large native trees...
S
John Rumm
> John Rumm<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>> On 17/05/2010 02:15, DanG wrote:
>>
>>> I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the
>>> commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please
>>> enlighten me as I may need one some day.
>>
>> Its a reciprocating saw with twin counter moving blades.
>>
>> http://www.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW390/
>
> when I search for Alligator saw is those chainsaw/loppers with the
> scissor action-
> http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/black-decker-electric-alligator-saw-lp1000-reviews
>
> The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
> material back and forth if it isn't secured.
>
> Can you, for instance, cut a small branch off a tree and keep both
> hands on the saw without it shaking the bejeebers out of the tree?
I have not got one, so can only go on what others have said. They seem
to be more refined than the standard recip saws - and logic would
suggest be better in the situation you suggest.
Andy Dingley
> Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
> wood.
Not with an angle grinder!
I have one of the few wood cutters for an angle grinder - the
Arbortech disk. It's also just about the scariest power tool I use (I
refuse to use a Lancelot angle grinder disk) I've never seen a saw
blade for an angle grinder and wouldn't trust it at that speed anyway.
This is not a good idea.
John Rumm
> On Sun, 16 May 2010 21:42:40 +0100, John Rumm
> <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>> On 15/05/2010 23:02, js.b1 wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:03 pm, aemeijers<aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
>>>> What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
>>>> It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
>>>> that goes back and forth like a handsaw.
>>>
>>> I think there are 2 types...
>>> - Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
>>> - Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away
>>
>> There are a few variations:
>>
>> http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm
>>
>
> a Scorpion saw in the US, either.<g> [and searches of B& D's US site
> don't show it]
Ah, well I *had* one of those. Took me ages to find someone to give it
away too! ;-)
A bit like:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-KS890ECN-Scorpion-Saw/dp/B00032II4A
They seem to be very popular, but I can't understand why! I can only
assume they are bought by infrequent DIYers who have not had the chance
to use a proper recip saw or a decent jigsaw.
They have a very short stroke, and fairly fine teeth so cut very slowly.
They use B&D single source blades that are expensive. They vibrate
excessively. The larger saw looking blade tends to set up side to side
vibration so much that the end tends to hack a wide trench out of the
wood rather than cutting it. It has a jigsaw mode where it behaves just
like the worst jigsaw you have ever used only not as well.
Dave Plowman (News)
I still have my first drill, bought in the early '60s. Cost IIRC 11 quid -
pretty well a week's take home for me and I wasn't in a badly paid job.
3/8th chuck two speed B&D - all aluminium and painted blue. It still works
well - but I did have it overhauled at B&D in the 70s as I had a mate who
worked at the factory in Spennymoor? and at least the gearbox was changed
as that is now gold. Had a circular saw and jigsaw attachment for it -
both pretty useless.
--
*Plagiarism saves time *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
John Rumm
They were certainly available long before that - but often the prices
were prohibitive - partly because other than basic things like drills,
much of the kit was professional level stuff not really aimed at the
general public.
(That �84 would be something like �270 ($400) in today's money allowing
for inflation).
> that had even a rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a small saber
> saw, and a cheap circular saw. Sanders and such were usually only
> purchased if the Mrs. was into furniture refinishing or something. This
> was stuff for repairs and backyard construction of kid-stuff, not for
> fine cabinetry.
>
> Of course, my experience may be atypical- I grew up in a construction
> company, and most of the kids I hung out with had fathers known to have
> swung a hammer or two in their day.
--
Gib Bogle
> I saw some discs in Alsford Timber the other day that were available in
> 9" and 12" (might have been a 4-odd inch too) that were advertised for
> wood, especially tree roots. They had some almighty lumps (1/8-1/4") of
> abrasive (maybe carbide) suck on the side. Looked bloody viscous
You definitely want a low-viscosity blade.
Lobby Dosser
news:6863dc6b-de32-420d...@i31g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
> John Rumm wrote:
> > Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
> > that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec
Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
hypersonic speed would be fun.
> I knew I could count on you :-)
RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.
At 4,500rpm you have almost 100 miles per hour. At 10,000rpm you have
200 miles per hour. Quite a few angle grinders run 12,000rpm, still
far below the sound barrier.
Due to the way an angle grinder is mechanically driven, stopping one
in motion as with a tree root will hurl the saw at speed. A chainsaw
will not do this hence eminently less dangeous than a freakin angle
grinder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
A chain saw Can kick back. Hence the use of face shield and helmet when
using one.
Lobby Dosser
news:eNqdneS06rehxW3W...@brightview.co.uk...
Here's one nearly done in by his digital video camera ..
Mike Marlow
Chain saws will most certainly kick back - as Lobby says. Very violently in
fact. The face shield and helmet are of no value if they do kidk back that
hard - they'll just disappear in the blood splatter. Face shields and
helmets are useful for lesser flying debris but they sure as hell won't stop
a chain coming at your head. Regardless - not only will chainsaws kick
back - they are very well known for this capability. Evidence that the
previous poster knows nothing at all about using chainsaws - and all the
reason to ignore his comments.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Mike Marlow
>
> Rather than continuing the willy waving, perhaps we can agree that an
> angle grinder is not the tool for this job and leave it at that?
>
I think that is what most of the people who really understand angle grinders
have been saying.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
Mike Marlow
>
> The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
> material back and forth if it isn't secured.
>
Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
Anything less does not result in a "downside".
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
aemeijers
> Jim Elbrecht wrote:
>
>> The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
>> material back and forth if it isn't secured.
>>
>
> Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
> Anything less does not result in a "downside".
>
the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far.
Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the
trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in
mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of
such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick
main branch.
--
aem sends...
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>On 16/05/2010 22:07, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
>> On Sun, 16 May 2010 21:42:40 +0100, John Rumm
>> <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
>>
>>> On 15/05/2010 23:02, js.b1 wrote:
>>>> On May 15, 10:03 pm, aemeijers<aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
>>>>> What you need is a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade.
>>>>> It is one long blade (not two, like the other post implied),
>>>>> that goes back and forth like a handsaw.
>>>>
>>>> I think there are 2 types...
>>>> - Alligator saw - double blades like a hedge trimmer
>>>> - Demolition saw - single blade that just pumps away
>>>
>>> There are a few variations:
>>>
>>> http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm
>>>
>>
>> Checked out that page and have even more tool-envy. I've never seen
>> a Scorpion saw in the US, either.<g> [and searches of B& D's US site
>> don't show it]
>
>Ah, well I *had* one of those. Took me ages to find someone to give it
>away too! ;-)
>
>A bit like:
>
>http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-KS890ECN-Scorpion-Saw/dp/B00032II4A
Only in England you say???
Pity!! (NOT)
Mark & Juanita
> Jim Elbrecht wrote:
>
>>
>> The downside of a reciprocating saw is their tendency to pull light
>> material back and forth if it isn't secured.
>>
>
> Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
> Anything less does not result in a "downside".
>
Anchor the work and use the foot.
Tip: Quick-Grip clamps are crap for anchoring work you are trying to cut
with a reciprocating saw. The vibration loosens the clamps and you wind up
resetting them multiple times. Not that I'd know that, it happened to
somebody who lives in my neighborhood.
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
Lobby Dosser
news:8fbf3$4bf0ab83$adbc29d4$17...@ALLTEL.NET...
Didn't mean to imply that the face shield or helmet would stop a chain. They
might gain enough time for the chain brake to engage.
Lobby Dosser
news:U9WdnTKB2dsGKm3W...@giganews.com...
Thick branches and right up against the trunk is the Intended use.
tony sayer
>>
>> A chain saw Can kick back. Hence the use of face shield and helmet
>> when using one.
>
>Chain saws will most certainly kick back - as Lobby says. Very violently in
>fact. The face shield and helmet are of no value if they do kidk back that
>hard - they'll just disappear in the blood splatter. Face shields and
>helmets are useful for lesser flying debris but they sure as hell won't stop
>a chain coming at your head. Regardless - not only will chainsaws kick
>back - they are very well known for this capability. Evidence that the
>previous poster knows nothing at all about using chainsaws - and all the
>reason to ignore his comments.
>
And you would not want your nice sharp chainsaw blade to be anywhere
near grit, earth, and any bit of wood with a nasty nail therein;!...
--
Tony Sayer
The Natural Philosopher
.
That's why you sharpen them regularly.
Oh and as far as kickbacks go, thats why you tend NOT to out your face
over the blade: Always you cut soo the swaw will kick over your shoulder.
As pointed out, the mask is not there to stop a saw blade. Flying chips
only.
tony sayer
>angle grinder is not the tool for this job and leave it at that?
>
>> has much more to do with the OP's opening line which said that he
>> was not experienced. Let it alone.
>
>> I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
>> of which they have no experience. If you have information or
>> experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
>> (read).
>
>Perhaps you might care to review some of these: (Warning, some of these
>are graphic)
>
Never mind the "graphic" bits the text is bad enough;!....
"A thorough secondary survey should be performed in the situation of a
shattered disc as several anatomical sites may be affected. In
particular perineal or scrotal injuries occur if the operator straddles
the object being cut and can be missed [2]. Overhead use of angle
grinders has been associated with fatal intracranial injury and should
be avoided [5]. A number of articles have been published to warn of
these specific dangers [6,7]. In order to reduce the risks of injury
there are general guidelines about the use of power tools such as
checking they are maintained and on the use of protective clothing [7].
Specific guidance on the use of angle grinders is shown in Table 2.
--
Tony Sayer
stuart noble
> On 16/05/2010 17:09, js.b1 wrote:
>> On May 16, 4:42 pm, stuart noble<stuart_no...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>> John Rumm wrote:
>>>> Multiply by the blade circumference... so for a 190mm blade at 4500 rpm
>>>> that is 4500 x 0.19 x pi = 2686 m/sec
>>
>> Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile
>> hypersonic speed would be fun.
>>
>>> I knew I could count on you :-)
>>
>> RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75
>> Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m
>> Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.
>
>
> Yup, my bad - sorry!
>
>
What an old boss of mine would term a "slip-up" rather than a mistake :-)
Dave Plowman (News)
aemeijers <aeme...@att.net> wrote:
> > Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly.
> > Anything less does not result in a "downside".
> >
> That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against
> the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far.
> Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the
> trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in
> mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of
> such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick
> main branch.
Any CSI fans will know that seems to be their tool of choice. Usually for
cutting plasterboard to reveal the dead body behind. But never with the
foot up against the board.
Strange their walls never seem to have studs...
--
*Why do we say something is out of whack? What is a whack?
John Rumm
The daft thing was having done the sum the result felt intuitively wrong
- for starters I expected the rim speed to be lower than that of the AG.
(and hit send before looking at the actual number and realising that the
edge would be going supersonic several times over!!)
Still in hindsight - the answer was actually ok, just had the wrong
units. It should have been a linear speed of 2686 m/min ;-)
John Rumm
Now those you can get in the US, you lucky people!
(although the blades are cheaper there - $8.50 vs about �12 ($17) here).
Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember "DanG" <dgri...@7cox.net> saying
something like:
>Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild
>ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a
>man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A
>diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you
>ran it into your hand at full speed.
>I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things
>of which they have no experience. If you have information or
>experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen
>(read).
Know-all fuckwit.
spaco
Pete Stanaitis
--------------------
john hamilton wrote:
> Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
> diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
> metal.
>
> Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
> wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
> whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
> any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
> grinder.
>
> Some of the shed cladding wood is very thin (with nails all over the place)
> so i think the usual circular saw for wood would be a bit too hefty and
> vigourous on this thin wood of the shed. Grateful for any suggestions on
> the best type of circular disc to go for. Thanks.
>
>
Lew Hodgett
Glad to see a lot of new partipican from the UK on this thread.
Welcome to the wreck.
Lew
aemeijers
I get that- trouble is, there are a lot of branches I need to trim that
fall between the thumb-size the rope powered lopper will cut, and the
thick ones the sawblade will get a bite on. I don't wanna take the whole
side off the tree, I just want to trim away where it rubs the roof and
siding, and gets into the TV antenna.
--
aem sends...
Lobby Dosser
Oh. Well, I've gone through some pretty thick branches with the rope powered
lopper. I sharpen it frequently and sharpened it when it was brand new.
Sometimes it takes a bit of 'chewing'.
Lobby Dosser
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LP1000-Alligator-Electric/dp/B000BANMUY/ref=pd_sim_hi_7
Andy Dingley
> I get that- trouble is, there are a lot of branches I need to trim that
> fall between the thumb-size the rope powered lopper will cut, and the
> thick ones the sawblade will get a bite on.
Black & Decker Alligator electric "scissor" chainsaw. Looks like a
toy, but for anything up to 4" diameter it's a wonderful pruning tool.
Best of all it doesn't have any real reaction force (like a normal
chainsaw) so you can cut small willow branches overhead when most
other saws would simply push them away, or a rope chain saw would just
bend them downwards.
John Rumm
That's what Andy D mentioned a few posts up this thread - they are very
good for pruning etc. Not the same as the other DeWalt Alligator saw
mentioned before... just to add to the confusion!
Lobby Dosser
Also looked like there might be some issues with them.
Alan Braggins
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LP1000-Alligator-Electric/dp/B000BANMUY/ref=pd_sim_hi_7
>
>That's what Andy D mentioned a few posts up this thread - they are very
>good for pruning etc. Not the same as the other DeWalt Alligator saw
>mentioned before... just to add to the confusion!
For added confusion, Black and Decker used to sell a two bladed
reciprocating saw like the De Walt that was also called "Alligator".
They may even have been the same saw rebranded. See e.g.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/18-Black-Decker-Alligator-Saw-blades-DeWALT-DW390-/320529867339?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4aa111a24b
John Rumm
Not too surprising since DeWalt are owned by B&D these days... (as are Elu)
Father Haskell
<k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
> On Sat, 15 May 2010 21:00:53 +0100, "john hamilton" <bluest...@mail.invalid>
> wrote:
>
> >Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
> >diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
> >metal.
>
> >Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
> >wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
> >whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
> >any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
> >grinder.
>
> good reason you don't find wood "blades" for an angle grinder. It's
> absolutely the wrong tool for the job.
Part of the woodcarver's standard arsenal, used in conjunction
with a chainsaw. Regular coarse alox grinding wheels won't
start a fire.
Father Haskell
> Novice has small angle grinder (takes discs 115 mm with central hole
> diameter 22mm). The discs i've already got for it are for grinding tiles and
> metal.
>
> Having knocked down a very old cedar garden shed, I want to cut up all the
> wood. I'm wondering if i buy one of the diamond discs available for it,
> whether that would be reasonably ok for cutting wood with? I cannot find
> any discs that are said to be specifially for wood for this type of angle
> grinder.
Coarse aluminum oxide. Diamond costs more, but doesn't
cut any better. Save it for hard materials that won't clog wheels,
like concrete or tile.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
You need one of the double bladed "aligator" pruning saws or a small
pole mounted pruning chain saw - both designed to do that job, and do
it relatively well.