gluing a bit back on a victorian slate fireplace surround
RobertL
I have a Victorian fireplace surround - one of those that looks like
marble but is really slate cleverly painted.
One of the bits has come off and I want to fix it back. Originally it
was screwed on from behind, so I can't do that (unless I take the
whole thing apart).
Can anyone advise what glue should I use for gluing this? It's a
piece of slate about the size of a small book and weighing 1.4kg and
with a (vertical) bonded surface of about 100mm x 100mm..
thanks for any help anyone cares to offer,
Robert
Jim K
MS polymer (toolsatan, screwfux etc £5odd for 310ml tube) and
ingenious props etc whilst it cures?
Just been using that to re-reattach limestone skirtings - tile
adhesive failed, no-morenails failed, fingers Xed for MS polymer but
it's convincingly sticky and sold as a stixall to all type
product.......
Cheers
Jim K
Jim K
stuart noble
Car body filler
Cash
Try the old fashioned, slow setting Araldite (epxoy resin) [1]. Follow the
instructions on the packet, find a good method of supporting the piece until
the glue dries fully (around 24 hours) - and the repair will last a very
long time (even permanent).
[1] This will allow sufficient time for you to manoeuvre the piece into
the correct position and to put any supports into place before the initial
setting begins.
Cash
Spamlet
"RobertL" <rober...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:38e3759f-fae2-4b92...@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
We had a marble hearth fitted a while back and had to cut off a few inches,
The offcut looked like it ought to come in useful, but its uses have been
limited by a rim piece stuck on at right angles. It looks like hot melt
glue and it is much stronger than the marble, so I guess that is what I
would use.
S
harry
Before you use any glue, you will need to carefully chip away the
existing adhesive or your tile will stand proud above the others.
There needs to be space for your new glue.
Norman Billingham
"Spamlet" <spam.m...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:i1aodh$vq7$2...@news.eternal-september.org...
Standard hot-melt glues will soften easily if they get warm and will tend to
creep slowly under load. Its also difficult to get a neat, thin glue line.
As long as you have clean and not friable surfaces the right way to go is
epoxy (Araldite or Devcon or similar). As part of a project I measured the
tensile load capacity of some epoxies a coupe of years ago. On glass-glass
surfaces the very worst broke at around 20kg/cm^2, so it will have no
trouble holding up your load. Will also tend to get stronger if its heated
(within limits).
Make sure you mix the two components very thoroughly and hold the joint
together while the epoxy hardens.
Spamlet
"Norman Billingham" <norman.at.tumulus.org.uk> wrote in message
news:ls6dnYhaxogt6aTR...@bt.com...
>
> "Spamlet" <spam.m...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> news:i1aodh$vq7$2...@news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "RobertL" <rober...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:38e3759f-fae2-4b92...@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>> I have a Victorian fireplace surround - one of those that looks like
>>> marble but is really slate cleverly painted.
>>>
>>> One of the bits has come off and I want to fix it back. Originally it
>>> was screwed on from behind, so I can't do that (unless I take the
>>> whole thing apart).
>>>
>>> Can anyone advise what glue should I use for gluing this? It's a
>>> piece of slate about the size of a small book and weighing 1.4kg and
>>> with a (vertical) bonded surface of about 100mm x 100mm..
>>>
>>> thanks for any help anyone cares to offer,
>>>
>>> Robert
>>
>> We had a marble hearth fitted a while back and had to cut off a few
>> inches, The offcut looked like it ought to come in useful, but its uses
>> have been limited by a rim piece stuck on at right angles. It looks like
>> hot melt glue and it is much stronger than the marble, so I guess that is
>> what I would use.
>>
>> S
>
> Standard hot-melt glues will soften easily if they get warm and will tend
> to creep slowly under load. Its also difficult to get a neat, thin glue
> line.
It certainly wasn't neat on the inside - not on view - corner. It is very
hard and even trying to chip at the excess tends to break off bits of the
marble surface rather than break the bond. Possibly it is epoxy - the
'butterscotch' colour, not clear - but it looks too uniform, but under the
hearth it would not be expected to get all that warm - esp as it's only for
decorative purposes.
However, ordinary Araldite does melt at relatively low temperature, so do
check out their web site for the right version. Googling, "Araldite melting
point" comes up with more info, and the 'Yachty' set seem to prefer 'JB
Weld'. http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php the blerb of which says it's
good for 500F.
>
> As long as you have clean and not friable surfaces the right way to go is
> epoxy (Araldite or Devcon or similar). As part of a project I measured
> the tensile load capacity of some epoxies a coupe of years ago. On
> glass-glass surfaces the very worst broke at around 20kg/cm^2, so it will
> have no trouble holding up your load. Will also tend to get stronger if
> its heated (within limits).
We used to cure test samples (overlap joint on aluminium strip) in an oven
at 60C before pulling apart when cool. Can't remember what it gave at
though - or how long we kept it at 60.
Also, when sticking bits on motorcycles with Araldite a waft over with a
blow lamp would smooth out the excess and render it clear.
>
>
> Make sure you mix the two components very thoroughly and hold the joint
> together while the epoxy hardens.
>
And while we are at it, isn't it amazing how, in donkey's years of producing
the product, Araldite never have learnt to make caps that don't split and
leave a horrible sticky mess in the bottom of the tool box. Even the
'hypodermic' type packs still seem to manage to split the end cap! Does
anyone ever get to finish a tube?
Or of superglue come to think of it...
Grumpy old man mode off.
S
Spamlet
"Spamlet" <spam.m...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
Incidentally the Araldite blerb say's it is bisphenyl: which is, I believe
one of the oestrogen mimicking chemicals they are phasing out of 'tin' can
linings...
S
RobertL
thank you all for your help with this. There is no problem with
'previous glue' becuase it was screwed on from behind originally, not
glued. Clearly I'll need to roughen and clean the surfaces before
gluing. I think I'll go the araldite route.
I agree about aradite caps - the tubes always end up coated in a slimy
mess :-(
Robert
fred
<3ff83a5d-6e0d-4b80...@41g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>,
RobertL <rober...@yahoo.com> writes
>
>
>thank you all for your help with this. There is no problem with
>'previous glue' becuase it was screwed on from behind originally, not
>glued. Clearly I'll need to roughen and clean the surfaces before
>gluing. I think I'll go the araldite route.
>
Is there any way you could use the screw holes to dowel the joint too?
That should make the joint far more reliable. I was going to suggest
threaded rod for the dowel but perhaps a wooden peg would be just as
effective and easier if you need to dismantle it at a later date.
--
fred
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