That gap around the sockets

[Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)]

I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.

Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with
1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably
better than I could have done)

In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler
the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution.

Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out?

Cheers - Pete

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[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Monday, 29 August 2016 22:35:27 UTC+1, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
> I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
> shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
> wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.
>
> Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with
> 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably
> better than I could have done)
>
> In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler
> the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution.
>
> Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out?
>
> Cheers - Pete

Putting PVA in the filler and backing it with something help.


NT

[David Lang]

Decorators caulk?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

[John Rumm]

On 29/08/2016 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:

> I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
> shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
> wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.
>
> Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with
> 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably
> better than I could have done)
>
> In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler
> the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution.
>
> Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out?

You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind
sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the
back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all
over it. Also handy for hiding gaps.

e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A

--
Cheers,

John.

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[Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)]

On 29/08/2016 23:29, David Lang wrote:

>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.

>> https://www.avast.con/antivirus is SPAMWARE

Was that me that's been hijacked by bloody Avast?
That's it, AVAST has now been removed and replaced by Avira!

> Decorators caulk?

Unfortunately the problem lies in that the back box isn't flush with the
surface of the plasterboard so there's nothing to give it (or any other
filler) structural stability, i.e. you're trying to fill a 1 sided hole
which is doomed to failure.

[Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)]

On 30/08/2016 00:29, John Rumm wrote:

> You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind
> sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the
> back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all
> over it. Also handy for hiding gaps.
>
> e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A

The idea of even more plastic isn't really doing it for me.
I suppose I might be able to chop up some spare back boxes to make some
sort of extension to extend the box to the face of the plasterboard
thereby enabling a better chance of successful filling...

Cheers
Pete

[Graham.]

You can get a very thin plastic frame that would typically be used to
gain a few mm of depth when (say) fitting a dimmer switch where an
ordinary switch was.
When I fitted one for my daughter last year I was surprised how
unnoticeable it was especially as the switch faceplate was metallic


--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

[Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)]

On 30/08/2016 01:09, Graham. wrote:

> You can get a very thin plastic frame that would typically be used to
> gain a few mm of depth when (say) fitting a dimmer switch where an
> ordinary switch was.
> When I fitted one for my daughter last year I was surprised how
> unnoticeable it was especially as the switch faceplate was metallic

That sounds like it might work Graham.
I'll see what I can find.

[Graham.]

"switch spacer" seems to find them.




--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

[John Rumm]

CPC do them IIRC - they add 10mm of depth to a backbox

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 29/08/16 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
> I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
> shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
> wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.
>
> Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with
> 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably
> better than I could have done)
>
> In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler
> the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution.
>
> Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out?
>
> Cheers - Pete
>
>

decorators caulk.

--
All political activity makes complete sense once the proposition that
all government is basically a self-legalising protection racket, is
fully understood.

[Tim Watts]

On 29/08/16 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:

Can you replace the backbox with a plasterboard backbox? These have a
decent lip all around.

[Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)]

On 30/08/2016 02:42, John Rumm wrote:

>> "switch spacer" seems to find them.
>
> CPC do them IIRC - they add 10mm of depth to a backbox

Screwfix has 'em.
I'll pick one up and see if it has legs for this alternative use.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-lisse-2-gang-spacer-white/2105j

Cheers All.
Pete

[harry]

Take the box out & replace with some packing behind it so it's level with the surface.
Fill any gap with decorator's caulk or plaster mixed with PVA.

[harry]

On Tuesday, 30 August 2016 00:29:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
> On 29/08/2016 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
> > I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
> > shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
> > wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.
> >
> > Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with
> > 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably
> > better than I could have done)
> >
> > In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler
> > the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution.
> >
> > Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out?
>
> You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind
> sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the
> back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all
> over it. Also handy for hiding gaps.
>
> e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A
>

If it's out by that much, the next deeper box could be fitted.

[Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)]

On 30/08/2016 07:37, Tim Watts wrote:

> Can you replace the backbox with a plasterboard backbox? These have a
> decent lip all around.

They're all wired up and plastered in otherwise I could have pulled them
forwards a bit and squeezed some gripfill through the screw holes in the
back to fix them further forward but they're all crazy foamed in and
trying to move them will most likely do more damage to the surrounding
skim than trying to fill the gap I fear.

Cheers
Pete

[Brian Gaff]

Can you not just get some of those snazzy plastic flange things they put
around light switches etc?
You can even get glow in the dark ones.
Of course how one finds some for double sockets, I'm not sure.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" <0345.86...@GymRatZ.Gym.Equipment> wrote

in message news:nq29qt$dic$1...@dont-email.me...

[Robin]

Try cutting some card to slide between the back box and the plasterboard
(shiny side out) to support the filler while it goes off. It can help
to support the card in contact with the filler with some folded card
going across the box.

It helps to use one of the really lightweight fillers which can be
sanded easily :)
--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

[spuorg...@gowanhill.com]

On Monday, 29 August 2016 22:35:27 UTC+1, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
> I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
> shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
> wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.

Squirty foam, then sand fill and paint.

As well as plastic surrounds you can also get wood eg
http://www.screwfix.com/p/varilight-2-gang-light-switch-frame-surround-unfinished/7327J

TLC may have a wider range.

[ARW]

"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" <0345.86...@GymRatZ.Gym.Equipment> wrote

in message news:nq3aod$vqm$1...@dont-email.me...

Then foam the gaps and use filler on it when it has set.



--
Adam

[TheChief]

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) <0345.86...@GymRatZ.Gym.Equipment>

Wrote in message:

OK so here's the anal method if you are bugged by such things.

As others have said, fill most of the depth of the gap almost up
to the front of the back box with decorators caulk.
Then get some stiff card and cut a long 1" wide strip.
Carefully bend the card and sellotape it into a hollow rectangular
"tube" 1" long that fits precisely into the inside of the
rectangular back box. If you make these "tubes" carefully then
they will push in as far as the fixing lugs on each side of the
back box and stay put.

Then this gives you a face to fill up to with the finishing
filler. When the filler is set you flex the rectangular tube
away from the filler and remove. Then use in another box (or
make a few tubes and do loads at once).

My kitchen was finish skimmed before I did the electrics (don't
ask) and it is not possible to see the filler and it hasn't
cracked so the method is good for at least 4 years.

Hope you can follow the explanation.

Phil
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[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <nq29qt$dic$1...@dont-email.me>,

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) <0345.86...@GymRatZ.Gym.Equipment>

wrote:

> I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
> shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard
> wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes.

> Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with
> 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably
> better than I could have done)

The trick is to put the plasterboard up first. It is then dead easy to cut
out a perfect fit for the box. Attempting to fit plasterboard round and
existing box requires accuracy few have the skills or time for.

> In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler
> the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution.

> Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out?

Decorator's caulk. But you will need several applications as it shrinks.
Persevere, and you will get an excellent job that won't crack.

--
*Many hamsters only blink one eye at a time *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[dennis@home]

fit a spare box in the hole, fill around it and remove the spare box.

If you don't have a spare, make one out of a cereal box and duct tape.

[Adam Funk]

Thanks for pointing that out --- I think I can use those for some
similar issues.

[Adam Funk]

On 2016-08-31, dennis home wrote:

> fit a spare box in the hole, fill around it and remove the spare box.
>
> If you don't have a spare, make one out of a cereal box and duct tape.

I can't find a picture on the WWW, but earlier this summer I saw
someone wearing this on a t-shirt:

REDNECK ELECTRICIAN

(cartoon of someone on a shaky ladder, using a power tool on an
extension lead, over a full bath)

It's SHOCKING what you can do with duct tape!

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 31/08/2016 08:18, dennis@home wrote:

> fit a spare box in the hole, fill around it and remove the spare box.

That's not a bad idea.
Didn't get into screwfix to pick up the plastic extension bit yet.
I was thinking about cutting a spare box into rectangular sections to
leave in as permanent "wall" to give the filler a solid backing but each
section might just turn into 4 individual bits.

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

On 30/08/2016 20:09, TheChief wrote:

> OK so here's the anal method if you are bugged by such things.
>
> As others have said, fill most of the depth of the gap almost up
> to the front of the back box with decorators caulk.
> Then get some stiff card and cut a long 1" wide strip.
> Carefully bend the card and sellotape it into a hollow rectangular
> "tube" 1" long that fits precisely into the inside of the
> rectangular back box. If you make these "tubes" carefully then
> they will push in as far as the fixing lugs on each side of the
> back box and stay put.
>
> Then this gives you a face to fill up to with the finishing
> filler. When the filler is set you flex the rectangular tube
> away from the filler and remove. Then use in another box (or
> make a few tubes and do loads at once).
>
> My kitchen was finish skimmed before I did the electrics (don't
> ask) and it is not possible to see the filler and it hasn't
> cracked so the method is good for at least 4 years.
>
> Hope you can follow the explanation.
>
> Phil

Thanks Phil.

Makes perfect sense.
Some sockets are really bad and others just tickle under the edge of the
socket.
I have plenty of ideas to try now though.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Cheers - Pete

[DICEGEORGE]

i always have a firefoam can and gun on the go
so just squirt it in,
when dry scrape some out
and use polyfilla