DIY Weed Killer (Effective Stuff)
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is what
I'm after.
Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up a
few weeds)
Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
All ideas welcome.
:¬)
Cheers
Pete
--
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Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
<0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> saying something like:
>All ideas welcome.
Biodiesel, seriously.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a
"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House
Mark
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk <0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> wrote in
message news:fvv764$obd$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
> Bloody weeds... everywhere!
> I have looked around the interweb...
> Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
> I'm after.
>
> Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
> Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
> Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up
a
> few weeds)
>
> Dandelions are the worst..
> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
>
> All ideas welcome.
> :¬)
>
Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto 20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
-
Mark
Mark <Ma...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:RRFUj.99$DZ...@text.news.virginmedia.com...
...
> > Bloody weeds... everywhere!
> > I have looked around the interweb...
> > Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
> what
> > I'm after.
> >
> > Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
> > Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
> > Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up
> a
> > few weeds)
> >
> > Dandelions are the worst..
> > (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
> >
> > All ideas welcome.
> > :¬)
> >
>
> Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt
> water/spray weedkiller.
> There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
>
Please insert "U" in pond!
-
Andy Hall
But it will wipe out all vegetation without selection and there will be
a period of time when one can't replant.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
>> All ideas welcome.
> Biodiesel, seriously.
There's one I hadn't come across.
Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?
Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few gallons
left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware store.
Mark
Andy Hall <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message news:48233250@qaanaaq...
> On 2008-05-08 17:27:29 +0100, "Mark" <Ma...@127.0.0.1> said:
>
> >
> > Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk <0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> wrote in
> > message news:fvv764$obd$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
> >> Bloody weeds... everywhere!
> >> I have looked around the interweb...
> >> Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
> > what
> >> I'm after.
> >>
> >> Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
> >> Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
> >> Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up
> > a
> >> few weeds)
> >>
> >> Dandelions are the worst..
> >> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
> >>
> >> All ideas welcome.
> >> :¬)
> >>
> >
> > Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt
> > water/spray weedkiller.
> > There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
> >
> >
>
> a period of time when one can't replant.
That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .
-
Andy Hall
<0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> said:
> Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
>
>>> All ideas welcome.
>> Biodiesel, seriously.
>
> There's one I hadn't come across.
> Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?
>
> Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
> gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware
> store.
What's the objective?
Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?
If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.
If you want to be selective, then a glyphosate weedkiller is the usual choice.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
>> Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
> 20lt
>> water/spray weedkiller.
>> There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
> Please insert "U" in pond!
:¬)
I'll take a look next time I see one.
Also... just noticed a thing called a Sheen X300 Flamegun.
Might be another good way of using up some of the Paraffin I have left over.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> What's the objective?
> Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?
For the most part that would be the aim.
> If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.
The areas to be de-weeded are borders with a few large hydrangers(sp) but on
the whole it would be for around 80% plant destruction. Casualties of war would
be minimal and certainly not really missed.
How long would a sodium chlorated soil remain hostile to re-planting?
> If you want to be selective, then a glyphosate weedkiller is the usual
> choice.
Not really fussed about saving anything as there's nothing that really to be saved.
PJ
>>Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
> 20lt water/spray weedkiller.
>>There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
>>
> Please insert "U" in pond!
>
;-)
Owain
> Also... just noticed a thing called a Sheen X300 Flamegun.
> Might be another good way of using up some of the Paraffin I have left
> over.
Has the advantage of can be used to sterilise the soil so effective
against animal pests as well as plant pests.
Owain
fred
<Ma...@127.0.0.1> writes
"Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."
Glyphosate does the job but I've never tried to synthesize it from base
chemicals so not DIY but you can get a lot for 20quid if you don't buy
it at B&Q and that's good enough for me.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs
Andy Hall
<0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> said:
> Andy Hall wrote:
>
>> What's the objective?
>> Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?
>
> For the most part that would be the aim.
>
>> If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.
>
> The areas to be de-weeded are borders with a few large hydrangers(sp)
> but on the whole it would be for around 80% plant destruction.
> Casualties of war would be minimal and certainly not really missed.
>
> Ho
Realistically if you do it now, next year.
Tim Lamb
Umm... Glyphosate is intended to kill grasses which it does very
effectively. There are some weeds which are largely unaffected.
regards
>
>
--
Tim Lamb
Tim Lamb
www.GymRatZ.co.uk <0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> writes
>Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
>
>>> All ideas welcome.
>> Biodiesel, seriously.
>
>There's one I hadn't come across.
>Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?
>
>Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
>gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware
>store.
You may joke but true. In my youth (don't ask) tractor vapourising oil
(green paraffin) was used to kill broad leaved weeds in germinated
carrots!
regards
>
--
Tim Lamb
ARWadworth
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message news:482335be@qaanaaq...
> On 2008-05-08 18:06:31 +0100, "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
> <0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> said:
>
>> Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
>>
>>>> All ideas welcome.
>>> Biodiesel, seriously.
>>
>> There's one I hadn't come across.
>> Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?
>>
>> Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
>> gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware store.
>
> What's the objective?
>
> Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?
>
>
> If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.
>
If it is a nuke then the pound shop sell the cheapest. Sodium chlorate is
still sodium chlorate even when it is sold for a pound.
Adam
Mark
fred <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:Pt4znaCjc1IIFwIF@y.z...
> >> >>
> >> >> Dandelions are the worst..
> >> >> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion
clock)
> >> >>
> >> >> All ideas welcome.
> >> >> :¬)
> >> >>
> >> >
upto
> >20lt
> >> > water/spray weedkiller.
> >> > There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> But it will wipe out all vegetation without selection and there will be
> >> a period of time when one can't replant.
> >
> >That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
> >vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .
> >
> I'd be wary of using it with much hope of selectivity:
>
> "Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
> plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
> 6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
> organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
> animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."
That's only relevant if you mix it at full strength and apply it with a
watering can drenching everything including the soil, which makes it ideal
for paths and driveways.
If you apply it sparingly only on the plants you want to zap,then remove the
foliage once it has died back the soil is good to plant within weeks,{1}
I know this as fact as I have used it like this for many years on property
development gardens and our own.
Glyphosate will also zap everything it touches if used indiscriminately but
does not remain active in the soil, its also substantially more expensive.
{1} NOT vegetables or anything edible, IMHO all kitchen gardens should be
100pc organic and herbicide free
-
somebody
www.GymRatZ.co.uk <0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> writes
>Bloody weeds... everywhere!
>I have looked around the interweb...
>Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
>what I'm after.
>
>Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
>Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
>Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
>up a few weeds)
>
>Dandelions are the worst..
>(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
>
>All ideas welcome.
>:¬)
>
>Cheers
>Pete
>
Difficult. Depends exactly what you want.
I've lived in this house for 5 years, at the back is a new patio (2
years or so) and at the front is a tatty old broken concrete and crazy
paving driveway (30 years or so).
My experiences.....
Weedol - expensive but quick results killing whatever you spray.
Unfortunately things grow back (or are replaced) just as quick.
Sodium Chlorate - Was told this is "the stuff". Well I bought a 1Kg tub
3 years ago, have been regularly spraying the various areas and to be
honest, there is not much difference. The impression I get is that
Weedol kills existing weeds but Sodium Chlorate stops new ones from
growing. I don't think the SC actually works that well. After three
years I am still out there with Weedol aswell.
This year, I've taken a completely different route. Weedkillers are
expensive so I've managed to get 5l of Roundup Amenity (Pro Biactive).
It isn't as quick as Weedol but it seems to be more effective in the
longer term at stopping their regrowth. "Amenity" is what the councils
buy.
I have also applied Jeyes Fluid liberally over the patio and driveway
(about 100ml per 10l). Everything stunk of disinfectant for a few days,
but to be honest with the combination of Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes,
our drive and patio are cleaner and more free of weeds than they have
ever been.
I'll know more in 12 months time, but from this early experience,
Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes are the way to go.
Hth
Bill
P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).
Someone
cerberus
m...@privacy.net <m...@privacy.net> typed:
> On 8 May,
> fred <n...@for.mail> wrote:
>
>> "Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing
>> all green plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may
>> persist in soil for 6 months to 5 years, depending on rate
>> applied, soil type, fertility, organic matter, moisture, and
>> weather conditions. It is highly toxic to animals and humans,
>> breaking down red blood cells."
>
> found out to his detrement, even though he had been warned. He
> always liked a bonfire, but this particular one was quick and
> spectacular.
>
I bet that was a few years ago tho'. AFAIK weedkillers have been 'doctored'
now to prevent 'people' from creating spectacular pyrotechnics.
Don.
stuart noble
Anyone got experience with the dreaded Japanese Knotweed? Is it just a
case of repeated applications over the next decade or so?
Broadback
retarded, which is all you can buy now, is not as effective but I douse
my paviours with a strong solution from time to time. True it kills all
known weeds, dead, however the blighters regrow within a few weeks.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
>> Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
>> gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware store.
>
> You may joke but true. In my youth (don't ask) tractor vapourising oil
> (green paraffin) was used to kill broad leaved weeds in germinated carrots!
I wonder which would be more effective..
Fine spray or ignited fine spray.
I certainly have a few great ideas to try now though.
Thanks everyone for input.
Cheers
Pete
fred
<Ma...@127.0.0.1> writes
>
>fred <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:Pt4znaCjc1IIFwIF@y.z...
>> >
>> >vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .
>> >
>> I'd be wary of using it with much hope of selectivity:
>>
>> "Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
>> plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
>> 6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
>> organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
>> animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."
>
>
>That's only relevant if you mix it at full strength and apply it with a
>watering can drenching everything including the soil, which makes it ideal
>for paths and driveways.
>If you apply it sparingly only on the plants you want to zap,then remove the
>foliage once it has died back the soil is good to plant within weeks,{1}
>
> I know this as fact as I have used it like this for many years on property
>development gardens and our own.
>Glyphosate will also zap everything it touches if used indiscriminately but
>does not remain active in the soil, its also substantially more expensive.
>
>{1} NOT vegetables or anything edible, IMHO all kitchen gardens should be
>100pc organic and herbicide free
>
as I thought. I was a bit worried too about leeching and spread into
adjoining areas and plan to still keep it off banks above planted
borders.
meow...@care2.com
> Bloody weeds... everywhere!
> I have looked around the interweb...
> Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is what
> I'm after.
>
> Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
> Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
> Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up a
> few weeds)
>
> Dandelions are the worst..
> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
>
> All ideas welcome.
> :�)
>
> Cheers
> Pete
Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.
Strange that no-one's mentioned salt yet, works like chlorate but
non-toxic.
Cement is another trick, rake it into the soil surface, press it down
and plants cant grow, the soil surface is too hard.
NT
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
> and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
> than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.
The flamegun X300 claims a temp. of 2000 degrees when up to speed.
The way I now understand weed control is that if you repeatedly remove the
stuff above the surface you reduce the amount of nutrients transfered to the
root and it gradually exhausts energy stores making re-growth weaker each time.
> Strange that no-one's mentioned salt yet, works like chlorate but
> non-toxic.
>
> Cement is another trick, rake it into the soil surface, press it down
> and plants cant grow, the soil surface is too hard.
It amazes me just quite what weeds can actually grow through when you see them
pushing up through tarmac etc.
As for Budlia (sp) "trees" they sprout out of chimneys and some of the most
inhospitable and hard to reach places.
(though they aren't part of my problem at the moment)
Jonathan Campbell
> Bloody weeds... everywhere!
> I have looked around the interweb...
> Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
> what I'm after.
>
> Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
> Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
> Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
> up a few weeds)
>
> Dandelions are the worst..
> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
>
I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
and/or desire to avoid surrounding grass and plants, then paint on with
a one inch paintbrush. Likewise for buttercups. For painting on, I'd mix
many times stronger than for spray (1:3 or so, as opposed to the normal
1:20); here I'm referring to Gallup 360 brand --- about £20 for five
litres in a farmers' suppliers (about one zillionth of the price of the
watered down equivalent in B&Q or Homebase)
Sodium chlorate has been banned in Ireland for forty years now (too good
for making DIY bangers). So I guess that has led to the introduction of
alternative total kill + temporary soil sterilisation products. One I
use is Hygeia Hytrol --- marketed as a 'pathclear' ("kills all weeds on
paths and patios for up to one year". I always associated the generic
name 'simazine' with that one, but I see it has Aminotriazole and Diuron
as well.
I once heard a very respected gardener recommending annual *light*
application of simazine for controlling weeds amongst shrubs; sort of
sterilises the first few mm of earth. I've used it in a small rose bed
and it was effective.
Best regards,
Jon C.
Jonathan Campbell
> Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>> Bloody weeds... everywhere!
>> I have looked around the interweb...
>> Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6
>> is what I'm after.
>>
>> Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
>> Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
>> ratio?)
>> Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for
>> beating up a few weeds)
>>
>> Dandelions are the worst..
>> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
>>
>
> I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
> Sodium chlorate has been banned in Ireland for forty years now (too good
> for making DIY bangers). So I guess that has led to the introduction of
> alternative total kill + temporary soil sterilisation products.
Incidentally, fifty years ago, farmers used sodium chlorate for killing
seed potato plants; seed potatoes were graded by size, so it was
important to let (most of them) them get to the right size and then stop
growth. All very nice for young boys to have hundredweight drums of
sodium chlorate around.
It seems they use sulphuric acid now; even for eating potatoes, I think.
Best regards,
Jon C.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
>> I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
> [...]
>> Sodium chlorate has been banned in Ireland for forty years now (too
>> good for making DIY bangers). So I guess that has led to the
>> introduction of alternative total kill + temporary soil sterilisation
>> products.
>
> Incidentally, fifty years ago, farmers used sodium chlorate for killing
> seed potato plants; seed potatoes were graded by size, so it was
> important to let (most of them) them get to the right size and then stop
> growth. All very nice for young boys to have hundredweight drums of
> sodium chlorate around.
>
> It seems they use sulphuric acid now; even for eating potatoes, I think.
Many thanks for your post Jonathan.
I've found out quite a bit about weeds over the last 24 hours or so.
:¬)
Cheers
Pete
Mary Fisher
"Owain" <owain...@stirlingcity.coo.uk> wrote in message
news:uvadnY9NStEryb7VRVnyhgA@plusnet...
And animal non-pests :-(
Mary
>
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
>> Has the advantage of can be used to sterilise the soil so effective
>> against animal pests as well as plant pests.
>>
>> Owain
>
> And animal non-pests :-(
Probably less harmful than chemicals though I shouldn't wonder.
Jonathan Campbell
> Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>> Bloody weeds... everywhere!
>> I have looked around the interweb...
>> Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6
>> is what I'm after.
>>
>> Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
>> Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
>> ratio?)
>> Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for
>> beating up a few weeds)
>>
>> Dandelions are the worst..
>> (helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)
>>
>
> I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
> and/or desire to avoid surrounding grass and plants, then paint on with
> a one inch paintbrush. Likewise for buttercups. For painting on, I'd mix
> many times stronger than for spray (1:3 or so, as opposed to the normal
> 1:20);
Reminded by mention of the Japanese weed, if you ever need to
permanently kill an unloved but enthusiastic shrub or tree (for example
inappropriately sited sycamores), then some neat glyphosate painted into
a wound will do wonders. Also, a tree surgeon told me recently that a
few drilled holes injected with engine oil (or was it diesel) does the same.
I guess there are many of you with sycamores in neighbouring gardens
cutting out all your light.
Jon C.
PeterMcC
<g01pmv$68i$1...@south.jnrs.ja.net>
<snip>
> The very worst garden weed just *has* to be Mare's Tail. The root
> systems
> spread far and wide and deep underground and a new plant will grow
> from the
> tiniest root fragment left behind when you dig 'em out. The 'leaves'
> (more
> like fronds) have a waxy coating which resists spray herbicides.
> Once it
> has taken hold there is *no* getting rid of it. Trust me on this.
> My
> garden is full of the bastards. Compared to Mare's Tail, dandelions
> are a
> stroll in the park with fluffy pink cushions to lie about on.
>
> Anyone who comes up with a means of eradicating this weed from my
> garden
> will earn my undying admiration and probably a large quantity of beer.
Glyphosate - Roundup or similar - mixed with a little washing up liquid as a
wetting agent. It does work - it did for me anyway - but can take a summer
of repeated application.
If you can get a heavy roller - or a gang of small children - rolled over
the weeds, the leaf surfaces rupture and the weedkiller can enter the leaf
more easily.
Weedkillers with ammonium sulphamate - like Deep Root - were quite effective
against Horsetail (ISTR that Marestail is the stuff that grows in water) but
have now, I believe, been banned. I gather that there's still some to be
had - ebay for instance - but that would be a matter for the individual.
--
PeterMcC
If you feel that any of the above is incorrect,
inappropriate or offensive in any way,
please ignore it and accept my apologies.
Mark
somebody <in...@somewhere.co.uk> wrote in message
>
> P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
> agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).
>
> Someone
p.p.s. 350ml Glyphosate (9.6% ww) in poundland is erm £1
made by Bayer who I think supply B&Q etc own brands
-
Mark
<A.C...@DENTURESsussex.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:g01pmv$68i$1...@south.jnrs.ja.net...
> Thus spake Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk (0845-86...@cheapest-prices.ever)
unto the assembled multitudes:
> > Bloody weeds... everywhere!
> > I have looked around the interweb...
> > Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
> > I'm after.
>
>
> Ohhhhhh no they're not.
>
> The very worst garden weed just *has* to be Mare's Tail. The root systems
> spread far and wide and deep underground and a new plant will grow from
the
> tiniest root fragment left behind when you dig 'em out. The 'leaves'
(more
> like fronds) have a waxy coating which resists spray herbicides. Once it
> has taken hold there is *no* getting rid of it. Trust me on this. My
> garden is full of the bastards. Compared to Mare's Tail, dandelions are a
> stroll in the park with fluffy pink cushions to lie about on.
>
> Anyone who comes up with a means of eradicating this weed from my garden
> will earn my undying admiration and probably a large quantity of beer.
>
moving house is easier
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0705/equisetum.asp
-
ARWadworth
"fred" <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:jI$oenC6$AJIFw3s@y.z...
I know someone who used several tubs of sodium chlorate that was mixed to a
very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be damp,
make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
in the mixture.
You need to look at the weather forecast up front as you do not want a
downpour just after doing this.
Adam
fred
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
>
>"fred" <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:jI$oenC6$AJIFw3s@y.z...
>>>
>> Thanks for the extra info, it seems if used carefully it is not as bad as
>> I thought. I was a bit worried too about leeching and spread into
>> adjoining areas and plan to still keep it off banks above planted borders.
>
>I know someone who used several tubs of sodium chlorate that was mixed to a
>very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
>was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
>beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be damp,
>make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
>in the mixture.
>
BTW, was it a feud or a favour?
ARWadworth
"fred" <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:WRs1o7A3tJJIFwge@y.z...
Feud.
It took a couple of months for the trees to turn start turning brown. They
conifers were finally dead in six months.
Adam
fred
>
>"fred" <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:WRs1o7A3tJJIFwge@y.z...
>> In article <360Vj.800$DZ6...@text.news.virginmedia.com>, ARWadworth
>> <adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
>>>
>>>
>>>a
>>>very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
>>>was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
>>>beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be
>>>damp,
>>>make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
>>>in the mixture.
>>>
>> That's a surprise, thanks for the info.
>>
>> BTW, was it a feud or a favour?
>
>Feud.
>
>It took a couple of months for the trees to turn start turning brown. They
>conifers were finally dead in six months.
>
Useful info again, ta
Andy Burns
> Ah, best not to know the full story I'm sure
After previous reports from Adam's road, perhaps not :-)
meow...@care2.com
> meow...@care2.com wrote:
>
> > Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
> > and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
> > than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.
>
> The flamegun X300 claims a temp. of 2000 degrees when up to speed.
> The way I now understand weed control is that if you repeatedly remove the
> stuff above the surface you reduce the amount of nutrients transfered to the
> root and it gradually exhausts energy stores making re-growth weaker each time.
Yes, but this strategy isnt really effective. Every gardener knows
that cutting weeds down, pulling them up, tilling them etc is an
ongoing frequent chore that never wins.
All flame throwers have high flame temps fwiw, flames are hot, but
that alone still doesnt make them effective. It seems plants are
remarkably resilient to partial boiling.
> > Strange that no-one's mentioned salt yet, works like chlorate but
> > non-toxic.
> >
> > Cement is another trick, rake it into the soil surface, press it down
> > and plants cant grow, the soil surface is too hard.
>
> It amazes me just quite what weeds can actually grow through when you see them
> pushing up through tarmac etc.
>
> As for Budlia (sp) "trees" they sprout out of chimneys and some of the most
> inhospitable and hard to reach places.
> (though they aren't part of my problem at the moment)
Yes! My experiments with cement were remarkably effective, but
I'm sure something would have called it home at some point. Maybe
altered pH has some effect too. Cement is actually used as a
fertiliser sometimes, as it contains some minerals, so perhaps
there was some effect from the mineral imbalance caused as well.
Wood ash wipes out weeds too, simply because its so high in
potash, but once it dilutes down after a few years the plants finally
love the minerals.
NT
meow...@care2.com
The one thing I found worked with the spreading root system types
is cardboard. Its a long process, but wiped them out in the end.
Now we have weed control fabric that would presumably look nicer.
NT
stuart noble
A neighbour of mine had a front garden makeover whereby you chuck some
fabric down, pile some stone chippings on top, and then march up and
down on it carrying bags of sand. The weeds are thriving and seem to
like the damp soil underneath as well.
Tim Lamb
www.GymRatZ.co.uk <0845-86...@Cheapest-Prices.ever> writes
>Mary Fisher wrote:
>
>>> Has the advantage of can be used to sterilise the soil so effective
>>>against animal pests as well as plant pests.
>>>
>>> Owain
>> And animal non-pests :-(
>
>Probably less harmful than chemicals though I shouldn't wonder.
One suggestion culled from uk.business.agriculture is to add some
wallpaper glue to a 3:1 mix of Glyphosate 360 and paint the leaves.
The point about Glyphosate is the translocated activity where the active
chemical is carried to the roots before killing the plant. This takes
time (up to 7 days) and the plant has to be actively growing for best
effect.
regards
>
--
Tim Lamb
Tim Lamb
<46fdb49d-dc52-4a95...@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
meow...@care2.com writes
>Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>> meow...@care2.com wrote:
>>
>> > Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
>> > and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
>> > than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.
>>
>> The flamegun X300 claims a temp. of 2000 degrees when up to speed.
>> The way I now understand weed control is that if you repeatedly remove the
>> stuff above the surface you reduce the amount of nutrients transfered to the
>> root and it gradually exhausts energy stores making re-growth weaker
>>each time.
>
>Yes, but this strategy isnt really effective. Every gardener knows
>that cutting weeds down, pulling them up, tilling them etc is an
>ongoing frequent chore that never wins.
>
>All flame throwers have high flame temps fwiw, flames are hot, but
>that alone still doesnt make them effective. It seems plants are
>remarkably resilient to partial boiling.
One technique is a fairly rapid singe of the weed patch followed by a
burn off several days later when the stems have dried out. Seriously
smoky! Plants like Docks and Dandelions with energy reserves in their
roots will not be killed anyway.
regards
--
Tim Lamb
Andy Dingley
> The very worst garden weed just *has* to be Mare's Tail.
A horsetail, the non-flowering ancient stuff that dinosaurs ate?
Improve your drainage and your probably clayey soil. Only time I ever
meet this stuff is in Ireland, over on this side it's better drained
and the stuff won't survive if you wanted it to.
You'll not harm it with glyphosate (i.e. Roundup) OTOH, glyphosate
will kill Japanese knotweed, if you're patient and re-apply regularly.
Andy Dingley
> Glyphosate - Roundup or similar - mixed with a little washing up liquid as a
> wetting agent.
Roundup already has this added.
Roundup is somewhat toxic to humans. Not because of the glyphosate,
but because of this wetting agent.
Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember somebody <in...@somewhere.co.uk>
saying something like:
>P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
>agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).
RoundUp knock-offs are available for half the price - I assume the
patent has run out on the original by now. 2.5L was 17Euros and 5L was
23Euros in my local farmers' store. Last summer I used a couple of
hundred mls well diluted to treat a couple of hundred sq mtrs of
scrubland and it killed everything. Grasses and broad-leaved weeds died
back within a week, and the thorny scrub finally turned up its toes at
the end of the autumn, presumably when the sap retreated for the winter
and eventually killed the roots.
Only now are fresh weeds beginning to appear, so it didn't sterilise the
soil, which I'm fairly happy about.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a
"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House
Steve Firth
[roundup]
> Only now are fresh weeds beginning to appear, so it didn't sterilise the
> soil, which I'm fairly happy about.
It can't, it's not like sodium chlorate or simazine it is inactivated by
adsorption onto clay particles in the soil.
BTW, Roundup is a Monsanto product so any of the others which call
themselves Roundup (someone mentioned Bayer) are "knock off" or
manufactured under licence. If you want a cheap(er) substitute specify
"glyphosate" rather than roundup since that's the generic name for the
active ingredient.
Andy Dingley
> If you want a cheap(er) substitute specify
> "glyphosate" rather than roundup since that's the generic name for the
> active ingredient.
Roundup's patents aren't (all) for using glyphosphate, mostly they
were about the combination with wetting agents - which AIUI was a bit
more sophisticated than just adding a squirt of Fairy to the bucket.
There may be knock-offs every bit as good, but merely containing
glyphosate doesn't make something into a functional clone of Roundup.
Agreed about its inactivation in soils. Shame they don't mention that
to people trying to use it as a long-term path clearer though.
Andy Dingley
> I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
> and/or desire to avoid surrounding grass and plants, then paint on with
> a one inch paintbrush.
Look out for a "weed wick" or "weed wiper". It's a T-shaped length of
plastic pipe, with a candlewick rope stretched across the bar of the
T. Fill it with glyphosate, wipe it across the leaves. Very accurate
placement control, no bending down and less dribbling than a
paintbrush.
Andy Dingley
Prices.ever> wrote:
> Also... just noticed a thing called a Sheen X300 Flamegun.
150 new
50 eBay (I've two to sell)
5 quid at a car boot.
They're excellent on nettles and brambles. Not so good on anything low-
lying, like dandelions. If you're working at ground level, go for a
butane torch instead. They're also good at clearing old couch grass,
but won't stop it re-growing next year (glyphosate will do it in about
two seasons)
Torches _will_ kill dandelions, just not in one blast. Flame the
leaves as they re-appear and starve them out.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> On 8 May, 18:52, "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk" <0845-86-86-...@Cheapest-
> Prices.ever> wrote:
>
>> Also... just noticed a thing called a Sheen X300 Flamegun.
>
> 150 new
> 50 eBay (I've two to sell)
2 of 'em ?
That's a bit greedy, Are they GWO?
> 5 quid at a car boot.
That's exactly the thing I said to my good lady.
She said "I'm not wondering car boot sales for the next 5 years looking for a
weed thing to save a few quid"
:¬)
> They're excellent on nettles and brambles. Not so good on anything low-
> lying, like dandelions. If you're working at ground level, go for a
> butane torch instead. They're also good at clearing old couch grass,
> but won't stop it re-growing next year (glyphosate will do it in about
> two seasons)
>
> Torches _will_ kill dandelions, just not in one blast. Flame the
> leaves as they re-appear and starve them out.
Normally I wouldn't worry, but as I have at least 4 or 6" paraffin in the
bottom of a great big tank then I may as well find something to burn it in that
isn't my Landrover. :¬)
Cheers
Pete
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
Will have a scout around.
Thanks Andy.
Andy Dingley
Prices.ever> wrote:
> 2 of 'em ?
> That's a bit greedy, Are they GWO?
I've got 3 of them, I only need one.
http://codesmiths.com/dingbat/lj/ebay/200710/weedburner.jpg
http://codesmiths.com/dingbat/lj/ebay/200710/weedburner_lit.jpg
I was going to sell the things last year, but was rained off! Not
much market to gardeners who are underwater.
I'm not selling them on eBay right now. I _really_ don't have the time
to faff about with it, also their enforced use of Paypal means that
it's now cheaper to throw stuff away or freecycle it than to mess
about with eBay.
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> http://codesmiths.com/dingbat/lj/ebay/200710/weedburner.jpg
> http://codesmiths.com/dingbat/lj/ebay/200710/weedburner_lit.jpg
> I'm not selling them on eBay right now. I _really_ don't have the time
> to faff about with it, also their enforced use of Paypal means that
> it's now cheaper to throw stuff away or freecycle it than to mess
> about with eBay.
Does it burn up to a proper "hot" blue flame ? presumably they can be
fully pressurised?
Wher abouts are you Andy? I would expect it would have to be a
collection only job which might make further enquiries a bit pointless.
http://codesmiths.com/dingbat/lj/ebay/200710/weedburner_lit.jpg
Just look at your weeds!!!!
:¬)
Pete
down near Bristol way