Using wood filler with wood hardener
Steve
There is damp wood especially around one hinge. I scraped out the damp rotten
stuff and it left one fairly big hole. I tried using Mangers Ready Mixed All
Purpose Filler but I suppose the wood was too damp as the filler refused to
harden. Sorry if I sound a bodger. I have got something called Bonda Wood
Hardener to try and make the wood harden and produce a dry surface.
The writing on the tin of Bonda Wood Hardener recommends I use a "two component
wood filler such as Woodfill" to fill the whole. Is this necessary or will my
tub of Mangers Filler do the job and stick properly to the coated wood?
Thanks for any advice.
The Natural Philosopher
Use the wod hardener and then use car body filler - two pack.
There is nothing car body filler cannot do!
Simon Stroud
The Natural Philosopher <a@b.c> wrote in message
news:3E9C7784.2020504@b.c...
In my old 1930s flat with original "Crittall" metal-framed windows, the
window frames in several rooms were completely knacked. After scooping out
all the rotten wood at the bottom, there was a big hole round the outside of
the metal frame. I used Ronseal Wood hardener (maybe similar to the "Bonda"
one). This seemed to soak in to a VERY surprising extent - it seemed to be
based on some advanced solvent that was much more "liquid" than water and a
large quantity would disappear into the wood. After it had set, quite a lot
of David's Isopon P38 ISTR was used to fill the gaping holes in the wood
(and the rusty metal frames - treated with "rust killer), followed by
painting. A very good result, and lasted long enough to see us through our
few years there.
Regards,
Simon.
stuart noble
The Natural Philosopher wrote in message <3E9C7784.2020504@b.c>...
>Use the wod hardener and then use car body filler - two pack.
>
>There is nothing car body filler cannot do!
As joint president of the car body filler fan club, I agree wholeheartedly
:-).
The "wood hardener" they sell is usually a bog standard polyester resin of
the type used with fibreglass, so that and the filler are a lot cheaper from
Halfords or a trade car finishing place.
The solvent the other poster referred to is styrene, which I believe is
fairly unique in that it hardens and becomes part of the cured product. With
little or no evaporation you get no shrinkage.
John Schmitt
>The solvent the other poster referred to is styrene, which I believe is
>fairly unique in that it hardens and becomes part of the cured product. With
>little or no evaporation you get no shrinkage.
Reactive diluent is the expression you were looking for. Loads of
'em, particularly for balancing out mean molecular weight in
epoxies and urethanes. Also can be cool for keeping that exotherm
down. Styrene has not been proved to be a human carcinogen, but
my suspicion is that is through lack of data. It definitely
screws your liver and permeates flesh merrily.
John Schmitt
--
If you have nothing to say, or rather, something extremely stupid
and obvious, say it, but in a 'plonking' tone of voice - i.e.
roundly, but hollowly and dogmatically. - Stephen Potter
Peter Ashby
joh...@alpha1.mdx.ac.uk (John Schmitt) wrote:
> Reactive diluent is the expression you were looking for. Loads of
> 'em, particularly for balancing out mean molecular weight in
> epoxies and urethanes. Also can be cool for keeping that exotherm
> down. Styrene has not been proved to be a human carcinogen, but
> my suspicion is that is through lack of data. It definitely
> screws your liver and permeates flesh merrily.
That sounds sufficient to make it nasty enough without being
carcinogenic to boot. Most organic solvents are not worth
breathing/drinking/bathing in, if you fancy your health.
Peter
--
Peter Ashby
Wellcome Trust Biocentre
University of Dundee, Scotland
Reverse the Spam and remove to email me.
Richard Savage
Steve wrote:
I have not used Bonda Wood Hardener but if it is even half as good as Bonda Primer
it will be the dogs ****. Bonda Primer is a red oxide paint that contains
anti-rust ingredients and resins. It is diluted with cellulose thinners rather
than white spirit. It sets absolutely rock hard and makes standard Shed red oxide
primer look the complete waste of money and effort it is! I bought it for spraying
the chassis of my project trailer and asked Bonda if it was OK to overpaint it with
bitumen paint for increased chip resistance on the underside. I can now see why
they couldn't see the point in bothering.
Rgds Richard