kitchen worktop L-joint
Paul
I want to join two bits of kitchen worktop (38 x 600 mm laminated
chipboard, rolled edge) into an L shape but I dont like those aluminium
joining pieces. I've seen professional jobs done like this which look quite
neat:
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I dont want a full 45deg mitre because the length needed would be more than
a standard 3m. These 2 bits will be just under 3m.
Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
there is a small gap what could it be filled with? I thought maybe Araldite
with crushed up laminate mixed in.
Any ideas on making a perfect join, anyone?
Paul Marshall
_
Charles DH Williams
In article <01bc2714$f6762ba0$9dda...@darkwood.demon.co.uk>, "Paul"
<pa...@darkwood.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
> tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
You probably won't suceed with DIY tools. I found a firm on a local
industrial estate that built quality kitchens but was quite happy to
supply me with excellent quality work-top cut exactly (ie better than half
a mm) to size with an *awesome* machine. The stuff they supplied seems to
be much better than you get in DIY superstores.
Good luck
Charles
Susan Fitt
In article <C.D.H.Williams-0203971915410001@info> C.D.H.W...@exeter.ac.uk (Charles DH Williams) writes:
In article <01bc2714$f6762ba0$9dda...@darkwood.demon.co.uk>, "Paul"
<pa...@darkwood.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
> tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
You probably won't suceed with DIY tools. I found a firm on a local
industrial estate that built quality kitchens but was quite happy to
supply me with excellent quality work-top cut exactly (ie better than half
a mm) to size with an *awesome* machine. The stuff they supplied seems to
Agreed. We already had our worktop (a wooden one), and it
was too nice to be ruined by practising our woodwork skills.
We phoned round some joiners and got one to come out and do
it (about 30 pounds per join). It took a few calls to find
one though, as there's a special template needed and not
many joiners had one. It would have been much cheaper to
do it ourselves, but I can't imagine we'd have done as
good a job as the joiner.
I don't know if you can hire the tools to do it, but if it
were me I'd want some leftover bits of worktop to practice on.
Susan Fitt
Richard Gethin
>I want to join two bits of kitchen worktop (38 x 600 mm laminated
>chipboard, rolled edge)
>
>
>Paul Marshall
>_
>
could proceed like this:- Decide which worktop will run right into the
corner and which won't. Take the one that won't and check the end face -
is it neat and square? If not cut an inch or so off the end to make it
so. Don't use a jig saw, a circular saw could be used with the worktop
upside down but I'd rather use a good handsaw sawing down through the
worktop keeping the blade on the waste side of your pencil line. Make
sure the worktop is well supported and that you will be in a comfortable
sawing position for the whole of the 600mm cut. Next, cut the front
corner off the worktop at 45 degrees. Start sawing from the cut edge of
the top and finish at the post formed edge so that the saw is always
cutting into the laminate. Make the offcut as small as possible to save
on the size of piece you'll have to cut from the other piece. All you
need to ensure is that the saw cut clears the post forming curve on the
edge that will mate with the other piece. Now lay the piece that will
run into the corner in the exact position it will be on the units. Lay
the piece you have just cut where it will lie but of course resting on
the "into the corner" bit. Use an offcut or similar to pack under the
previously cut worktop so that it is horizontal. Now you can mark around
the edge of the worktop onto the bottom piece for the bit you need to
cut out. Doing it like this allows for any wobbles in your first cut,
your 45 deg not being 45 deg and for your walls not being square. Now
cut out the piece from the "into the corner" bit and hey presto the two
pieces will mate exactly (of course). You will have to hold the saw
vertically while sawing into the 45 deg corner - take time to avoid
damaging the post formed edge. Professionals would use clamps and
biscuit joints under the worktop to secure the joint. You could do
this:- Fix a batten to the wall which will run under the cut and
support it. Fix a batten under one of the worktop edges overhanging so
that the mating worktop can be fixed to it later. Apply silicone <sp>
sealant to both the faces (colour as near as possible to worktop). Lay
both worktops into position, when you're happy that it's going to look
fine fix the worktop that doesn't go into the corner down to the units.
Then hammer suitable wedges down between the wall and the back edge of
the other worktop thus closing up the joint. Screw up through the
overhanging batten so both tops are held together and fix top to units.
Wipe away excess silicone, stand back, admire! Sorry for such a long
post everybody - please don't shout!
--
Richard Gethin
David Micklem
>I want to join two bits of kitchen worktop (38 x 600 mm laminated
>chipboard, rolled edge) into an L shape but I dont like those aluminium
>joining pieces. I've seen professional jobs done like this which look quite
>neat:
<snip nice ascii art 'n stuff>
>Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
>tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
>there is a small gap what could it be filled with? I thought maybe Araldite
>with crushed up laminate mixed in.
>
>Any ideas on making a perfect join, anyone?
>
Check with dejanews - I'm sure that I've seen this discussed before, though
I can't remember the final conclusions. FWIW, I _think_ that there is a
special bit of ironmongery that can be fitted into holes routed underneath
the worktop. It is used to pull the two pieces of worktop together
tightly....
David
--
D.R.Micklem, Time flies like an arrow...
Wellcome/CRC Institute, Fruit flies like a banana.
Cambridge CB2 1QR, UK Tel: [+44] (0)1223 334129
Email:dr...@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk Fax: [+44] (0)1223 334089
Matthew Marks
Paul (pa...@darkwood.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
: tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
: there is a small gap what could it be filled with? I thought maybe Araldite
: with crushed up laminate mixed in.
This often comes up - we shoud have a FAQ entry.
As far as cutting is concerned, I'll leave the experts to comment, tho I would
think it impossible to do anything with a domestic jugsaw, and a circular saw
can't cut curves.
I had the tops machined ready for me to join. The worst nightmare is water
getting into the join and swelling the chipboard. They said use two layers of
impact adhesive to seal thoroughly the surfaces - allow this to dry fully.
Then join with silicone sealant - this is tough, waterproof and sticky! The
underside of the sections has dumbell-shaped holes milled into them to take
clamps to close the gap really tightly - it doesn't really matter then what
colour the silicone is (ie use colourless).
Couldn't you get someone to make the cuts for you?
--
Matthew @rd.bbc.co.uk My opinions, not Auntie's. JUNK EMAIL NOT WELCOME
Rob Lound
"Paul" <pa...@darkwood.demon.co.uk> wrote:
...
>Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
>tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
>there is a small gap what could it be filled with? I thought maybe Araldite
>with crushed up laminate mixed in.
>Any ideas on making a perfect join, anyone?
>Paul Marshall
>_
I believe that the correct way is to use a large router with a
suitable cutter to edge a laminated worktop, or a tool dedicated to
the purpose (which looks much the same). To cope with the thickness of
material you need professional gear that is suitably expensive.
Fortunately you can hire it all.
The professionals use a template to cut along (again expensive), but
if you're only doing one job you can cut one edge & use that to mark
out the other side.
I once tried to do a similar job with d.i.y gear. Compared to the hire
charges it wasn't worth the time & effort & the results were
disappointing.
Good luck
Rob
Rick Easton
s...@cstr.ed.ac.uk (Susan Fitt) wrote:
>In article <C.D.H.Williams-0203971915410001@info> C.D.H.W...@exeter.ac.uk (Charles DH Williams) writes:
> In article <01bc2714$f6762ba0$9dda...@darkwood.demon.co.uk>, "Paul"
> <pa...@darkwood.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> > Problem is how to make really neat and accurate cuts using average diy
> > tools. The line has to be straight and the edge perfectly sharp. And if
> You probably won't suceed with DIY tools. I found a firm on a local
> industrial estate that built quality kitchens but was quite happy to
> supply me with excellent quality work-top cut exactly (ie better than half
> a mm) to size with an *awesome* machine. The stuff they supplied seems to
>Agreed. We already had our worktop (a wooden one), and it
>was too nice to be ruined by practising our woodwork skills.
>We phoned round some joiners and got one to come out and do
>it (about 30 pounds per join). It took a few calls to find
>one though, as there's a special template needed and not
>many joiners had one. It would have been much cheaper to
>do it ourselves, but I can't imagine we'd have done as
>good a job as the joiner.
>I don't know if you can hire the tools to do it, but if it
>were me I'd want some leftover bits of worktop to practice on.
>Susan Fitt
I've managed to do (IMHO) a pretty good job along similar lines;
although mine was just a straight cut.
I can't remember the exact details but I think I started by cutting
through the laminate with a very sharp (and strong) knife then cutting
from the back with a fine toothed panel saw to meet the first cut,
stopping just short of the knife-cut; then I cut through (still from
the back) into the first knife-cut, again with a knife.
As a result the only thing that shows is a very slight mismatch in the
surface texture/pattern of the laminate.
ps I also screwed a couple of bracing pieces across the join
(underneath) as well as glueing the join together (can't remember what
glue)
/Rick
~~ If the future's looking dark, we're the ones who have to shine. ~~
N. Peart - Rush
Andrew Willoughby
In article: <5fgqe8$p...@bbcnews.rd.bbc.co.uk> mat...@rd.bbc.co.uk
(Matthew Marks) writes:
>
> Couldn't you get someone to make the cuts for you?
>
It's possible to do it yourself and very satisfying when
you get a really neat join. I used the proper dumbell
shaped bolts to secure it together.
--
Andrew
Slow down, relax, enjoy life!
No, not *that* slow, the legal limit will do nicely thanks!
Paul
Thanks for the suggestions, the consensus seems to be that its not for the
diyer.
Matthew Marks <mat...@rd.bbc.co.uk> wrote in article
<5fgqe8$p...@bbcnews.rd.bbc.co.uk>...
> Couldn't you get someone to make the cuts for you?
First quote was £55 just for the cutting. Hence the need for a diy
approach!
Paul Marshall.