Running cables behind (perpendicular to) plaster coving - is it possible?

[RJS]

I need to run chases for a light switch and power socket (in separate locations) from first floor down to ground floor. The ceiling at ground floor has plaster coving (approx 4" profile).

Is it feasible/practicable to chase behind the coving, or at least provide a path for the cable conduit without disturbing the coving? If so how?

I really do not want to get into replacing the coving - or do I? I imagine that it is a wretched job with great risk of not being able to match what I remove.

TIA

Richard

[John Rumm]

On 01/07/2013 22:35, RJS wrote:
> I need to run chases for a light switch and power socket (in separate
> locations) from first floor down to ground floor. The ceiling at
> ground floor has plaster coving (approx 4" profile).
>
> Is it feasible/practicable to chase behind the coving, or at least
> provide a path for the cable conduit without disturbing the coving?

Yes.

> If so how?

A few options, however 4" sounds relatively easy in the grand scheme.

Step one, chase up to the start of the cove. Then there are a number of
options described here:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Electrical_Installation#Getting_past_coving_and_skirtings

> I really do not want to get into replacing the coving - or do I? I
> imagine that it is a wretched job with great risk of not being able
> to match what I remove.

Depends on the cove...


--
Cheers,

John.

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[RJS]

Thanks John

The 'long drill' from below was my first choice.

I have SDS+ gauging chisels but the bricks in my place shatter at every opportunity :-(

It's tempting to repeat the arrangement for other cables: i.e. drop down the cavity . . .

Cheers

Richard

[Tim Watts]

If it's any sort or standard coving, it is usually fairly easy to match.

The only joints that tend to show are short lengths replaces with butted
joints. Even those can have a little filler and a bit of sanding to blend
in.

To take it off is fairly easy - use a Fein type tool to make a neat vertical
cut in 2 places and then get a sharpended bolster up behined it - mine more
or less "pinged" off once I broken the initial joint.

You can then use a flat sharp scraper to take off the adhesive (plaster
like) bead. Do you chasing then fit new bits as required.

If you are lucky enough to have Gyproc quadrant, they make a Gyproc Lite
matching product which is a light as polystryrene, but far superior - looks
a perfect match when painted.

--
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[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <8cd1f4cb-20d1-4313...@googlegroups.com>,

I often drill up behind coving for cables.
Chase up to the coving, and then use a drill into the top of the chase
to continue it up through the ceiling. A very long thin drill bit is
good for this, with the drill at a very shallow angle from the wall.
You aren't actually drilling as such - just knocking away the conceiled
plaster to continue the chase upwards.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[stuart noble]

> I often drill up behind coving for cables. Chase up to the coving,
> and then use a drill into the top of the chase to continue it up
> through the ceiling. A very long thin drill bit is good for this,
> with the drill at a very shallow angle from the wall. You aren't
> actually drilling as such - just knocking away the conceiled plaster
> to continue the chase upwards.
>

A 6" screw allows you to get closer to the wall than a drill. Takes
longer but in my case it meant the hole in the loft just cleared the joist

[RJS]

Thanks Tim

Will look for replacement coving as a backup in case of disaster!

Rgds

Richard